Planning a trip to Guadalajara
Guadalajara has two great qualities that appeal to many travelers: a strong Mexican identity, and a big city with big-city pleasures. People who are fond of Mexico and enjoy exploring a different urban scene will love it. One of my favorite things about the city is the ease with which you can move around. Taxis are reasonably priced and numerous; you rarely have to wait more than a minute or two to find one. It takes the fuss out of navigating a big city on your own, and obviates the need to figure out bus routes. Just grab a cab and go.
Guadalajara is a lively town with friendly locals, great food, and lots of options for entertainment. And much of what you'll find here is so very Mexican. Guadalajara is the center of mariachi culture, and, being in the tequila-producing region of Mexico, it's the center of tequila culture as well. The other things that one comes to Mexico to see are present too -- colonial architecture, native craft cultures, and shopping galore. Guadalajara really has it all.
It is the second-largest city in the country, with about five million inhabitants. Its altitude (1,590m/5,200 ft.) lends it a mild climate for most of the year. It's a mildly conservative, very Catholic city, quite distinct from Mexico City. And the pace of life here is more relaxed. It's often called the biggest small town in Mexico.
While in Guadalajara, you will undoubtedly come across the word tapatío (or tapatía). In colonial times, people from the area customarily traded goods in threes, called tapatíos. From this practice, the locals came to be called Tapatíos as well; now tapatío has come to mean any person, thing, or style that comes from Guadalajara.
Public Security & Travel
In the summer of 2010, Mexican soldiers and police cornered one of Mexico's major drug figures, Ignacio Coronel, in a residential zone of Zapopan, a suburb of Guadalajara. He died in the ensuing shootout. This seemed to raise tensions in the city, and in the following month there were some shootings and attacks on the police. Then, on February 2, 2011, the police arrested two leaders of a local gang called La Resistencia. The following day, members of this gang retaliated by coordinating seven attacks in different parts of the city in a 2-hour span. The attackers used grenades, firearms, and incendiary devices, killing two people and wounding several others. A couple attacks were loosely targeted, but mostly this was a show of force meant to create mayhem in the city. A couple of weeks later there was a grenade attack on a local nightclub that killed six people. These attacks have again raised tensions in Guadalajara, but they're probably isolated, and things will return to normal. Still, before you travel to the city, check the news for more developments, and the U.S. Department of State travel page (www.travel.state.gov) to find out if there are any specific travel warnings for the city.
Visitor Information
The State of Jalisco Tourist Information Office is at Calle Morelos 102 (tel. 33/3668-1600, or -1601; http://visita.jalisco.gob.mx) in the Plaza Tapatía, at Paseo Degollado and Paraje del Rincón del Diablo. It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 7pm, and Saturday 10am to 2pm. You can get maps, a monthly calendar of cultural events, and good information. Of the city tourist information booths, one is in Plaza Liberación (directly behind the cathedral), and another is in Plaza Guadalajara (directly in front of the cathedral). These are open daily from 9am to 1pm and 3 to 7pm. Ask at either of these about free weekend walking tours.
Spanish-Language Programs
Foreigners can study Spanish at the Foreign Student Study Center, University of Guadalajara, Calle Tomás V. Gómez 125, 44100 Guadalajara, Jal. (tel. 33/3616-4399; www.cepe.udg.mx/cepe_gdl.html). IMAC is a private Spanish school at Donato Guerra 180, in the Centro Histórico (tel. 33/3613-1080; www.spanish-school.com.mx).
Getting Around
By Taxi
Taxis are the easiest way to get around town. They are quite plentiful. Most have meters, and though some drivers are reluctant to use them, you can insist that they do. There are three rates: for day, night, and suburbia. Typical fares include the following: downtown to the far west side, 70 to 90 pesos; downtown or west side to Tlaquepaque, 70 to 100 pesos; downtown to the new bus station, 90 to 125 pesos; downtown to the airport, 180 to 220 pesos.
By Car
Familiarize yourself with the main traffic arteries before you get behind the wheel. Several important freeway-style thoroughfares crisscross the city. Dr. R. Michel leads south from the town center toward Tlaquepaque. Use González Gallo for the return direction. Avenida Vallarta starts out downtown as Juárez, heads west past La Minerva, and eventually feeds onto Hwy. 15, bound for Tequila and Puerto Vallarta.
By Bus
For the visitor, the handiest route is the TUR 706, which runs from the Centro Histórico southeast to Tlaquepaque (10 pesos), the Central Camionera (the new bus station), and Tonalá. You can catch this bus on Avenida 16 de Septiembre. The same bus runs in the reverse direction back to the downtown area.
The electric bus is handy for travel between downtown and the Minerva area (5 pesos). It bears the sign PAR VIAL and runs east along Hidalgo and west along the next street to the north, Calle Independencia (not Calzada Independencia). Hidalgo passes along the north side of the cathedral. The Par Vial goes as far east as Mercado Libertad and as far west as Minerva Circle. The city also has a light rail system, Tren Ligero, but it doesn't serve areas that are of interest to visitors.
Getting There
By Plane
Guadalajara's airport (GDL) is a half-hour ride from the city. Taxi tickets, priced by zone, are for sale in front of the airport (235 pesos to downtown).
Major airlines serving Guadalajara are AeroMar (tel. 01-800/237-6627 in Mexico), Aeroméxico (tel. 800/237-6639 in the U.S., 01-800/021-4000 in Mexico), Alaska (tel. 800/252-7522 in the U.S., 01-800/252-7522 in Mexico), American (tel. 800/433-7300 in the U.S., 01-800/904-6000 in Mexico), Continental (tel. 800/523-3273 in the U.S., or 01-800/900-5000 in Mexico), Delta (tel. 800/241-4141 in the U.S., 01-800/123-4710 in Mexico, or 33/3630-3530), and United (tel. 800/538-2929 in the U.S., 01-800/003-0777 in Mexico, or 33/3616-9489).
Of the smaller airlines, Azteca (tel. 33/3630-4615) offers service to and from Mexico City, and from there to several cities in Mexico. Allegro (tel. 33/3647-7799) operates flights to and from Oakland and Las Vegas via Tijuana.
By Car
Guadalajara is at the hub of several four-lane toll roads (called cuotas or autopistas), which cut travel time considerably but are expensive. From Nogales on the U.S. border, follow Hwy. 15 south (21 hr.). From Tepic, a quicker route is toll road 15D (5 hr.; 320 pesos). From Puerto Vallarta, go north on Hwy. 200 to Compostela; toll road 68D heads east to join the Tepic toll road. Total time is 5 1/2 hours, and the tolls add up to 300 pesos. From Barra de Navidad, on the coast southeast of Puerto Vallarta, take Hwy. 80 northeast (4 1/2 hr.). From Manzanillo, you might also take this road, but toll road 54D through Colima to Guadalajara (3 1/2 hr.; 260 pesos) is faster. From Mexico City, take toll road 15D (7 hr.; 550 pesos).
By Bus
Two bus stations serve Guadalajara. The old one, south of downtown, is for buses to Tequila and other nearby towns; the new one, 10km (6 1/4 miles) southeast of downtown, is for longer trips.
The Old Bus Station -- For destinations within 100km (62 miles) of town, including the Lake Chapala area, go to the old bus terminal, on Niños Héroes off Calzada Independencia Sur. For Lake Chapala, take Transportes Guadalajara-Chapala, which runs frequent buses and combis (minivans).
The New Bus Station -- The Central Camionera is 20 to 30 minutes from downtown (125 pesos by taxi). The station has seven terminals connected by a covered walkway. Each terminal houses bus lines, offering first- and second-class service for different destinations. Buy bus tickets ahead of time from a travel agency in Guadalajara. Ask at your hotel for the closest to you. There are several major bus lines. The best service (big seats and lots of room) is provided by ETN.
Neighborhoods in Brief
City Layout
The Centro Histórico (city center), with all its plazas, churches, and museums, will obviously be of interest to the visitor. The west side is Guadalajara's modern, cosmopolitan district. In the northwest corner is Zapopan, home of Guadalajara's patron saint. On the opposite side of the city from Zapopan, in the southeast corner, are the craft centers of Tlaquepaque and Tonalá.
The main artery for traffic from downtown to the west side is Avenida Vallarta. It starts downtown as Juárez. The main arteries for returning to downtown are México and Hidalgo, both north of Vallarta. Vallarta heads due west, where it intersects another major artery, Avenida Adolfo López Mateos, at Fuente Minerva (or simply La Minerva, or Minerva Circle). Minerva Circle, a 15-minute drive from downtown, is the central point of reference for the west side. To go to Zapopan from downtown, take Avenida Avila Camacho, which you can pick up on Alcalde; it takes 20 minutes by car. To Tlaquepaque and Tonalá, take Calzada Revolución. Tlaquepaque is 8km (5 miles) from downtown and takes 15 to 20 minutes by car; Tonalá is 5 minutes farther. Another major viaduct, Calzada Lázaro Cárdenas, connects the west side to Tlaquepaque and Tonalá, bypassing downtown.
The Neighborhoods in Brief
Centro Histórico The heart of the city encompasses many plazas, the cathedral, and several historic buildings and museums. Here, too, are the striking murals of José Clemente Orozco, one of the great Mexican muralists. Theaters, restaurants, shops, and clubs dot the area, and an enormous market rounds out the attractions. All of this is in a space roughly 12 blocks by 12 blocks -- an easy area to explore on foot, with several plazas and pedestrian-only areas. To the south is a large green space called Parque Agua Azul.
West Side This is the swanky part of town, with the fine restaurants, luxury hotels, boutiques, and galleries, as well as the American, British, and Canadian consulates. It's a large area best navigated by taxi.
Zapopan Founded in 1542, Zapopan is a suburb of Guadalajara. In its center is the 18th-century basilica, the home of Guadalajara's patron saint, the Virgin of Zapopan. The most interesting part of Zapopan is clustered around the temple and can be explored on foot. It has a growing arts and nightlife scene.
Tlaquepaque This is another suburb that for centuries was a village of artisans (especially potters). It grew into a market center, and in the last 40 years, has attracted designers and artists from across Mexico. Every major form of art and craft is for sale here: furniture, pottery, glass, jewelry, woodcarvings, leather goods, sculptures, and paintings. The shops are sophisticated, yet Tlaquepaque's center retains a small-town feel that makes door-to-door browsing enjoyable and relaxing.
Tonalá This has remained a town of artisans. Plenty of stores sell mostly local products from the town's more than 400 workshops. You'll see wrought iron, ceramics, blown glass, and papier-mâché. A busy street market operates each Thursday and Sunday.
Fast Facts
Area Code -- The telephone area code is 33.
Business Hours -- Store hours are Monday through Saturday from 10am to 2pm and 4 to 8pm.
Climate & Dress -- Guadalajara's weather is mostly mild. From November through March, you'll need a sweater in the evening. The warmest months, April and May, are hot and dry. From June through September, the city gets afternoon and evening showers that keep the temperature a bit cooler, but it seems as though the local climate is getting warmer. Dress in Guadalajara is conservative; attention-getting sportswear (short shorts, halters, and the like) is out of place.
Consulates -- The American Consular offices are at Progreso 175 (tel. 33/3268-2200, -2100). Other consulates include the Canadian Consulate, Mariano Otero 1249, Col. Rinconada del Bosque (tel. 33/3671-4740); the British Consulate, Calle Jesús Rojas 20, Col. Los Pinos (tel. 33/3343-2296); and the Australian Consulate, López Cotilla 2018, Col. Arcos Vallarta (tel. 33/3615-7418). These offices all keep roughly the same hours: Monday through Friday from 8am to 1pm.
Currency Exchange -- Three blocks south of the cathedral, on López Cotilla, between Corona and Degollado, are more than 20 casas de cambio. Almost all post their rates, which are usually better than bank rates, minus the long lines.
Elevation -- Guadalajara sits at 1,700m (5,576 ft.).
Emergencies -- The emergency phone number is tel. 060.
Hospitals -- For medical emergencies, visit the Hospital México-Americano, Cólomos 2110 (tel. 33/3642-7152 or 33/3641-3141).
Internet Access -- Most of the big hotels have business centers that you can use. There are many Internet cafes in the Centro Histórico.
Newspapers & Magazines -- Many newsstands sell the two English local papers, the Guadalajara Reporter and the Guadalajara Weekly.
Police -- Tourists should first try to contact the Jalisco tourist information office in Plaza Tapatía (tel. 33/3668-1600). If you can't reach the office, call the municipal police at tel. 33/3668-7983.
Post Office -- The correo is at the corner of Carranza and Calle Independencia, about 4 blocks northeast of the cathedral. Standing in the plaza behind the cathedral, facing the Degollado Theater, walk to the left, and then turn left on Carranza; walk past the Hotel Mendoza, cross Calle Independencia, and look for the post office on the left. It's open Monday through Thursday from 9am to 5pm, Saturday from 10am to 2pm.
Safety -- Crimes against tourists and foreign students are infrequent and most often take the form of purse snatching. Criminals usually work in teams and target travelers in busy places, such as outdoor restaurants. Keep jewelry out of sight. Should anyone spill something on you, be alert to your surroundings and step away -- accidental spills are a common method for distracting the victim.
