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Towering above the settlement, this awesome fortress (ca. 13th c.) immediately catches your eye as you approach Gyantse. It's a short, steep hike up, but views of Pelkhor Choede, the ancient alleyways, and the jagged surrounding peaks are breathtaking. The meager contents of the "museum" have now dwindled to an alarming collection of mannequins, and, unless you ask to see the dusty old caption boards hidden in the back, U.K. visitors are spared most of the anti-British sentiments formerly expressed in the museum; the only one remaining on show states "the place of jump in cliff against that British hero martyrs."