Haifa has a number of modern indoor shopping malls, including the Panorama Center in Central Carmel, Migdal Haneve'im in the Hadar District, and the Horev Center on Horev Street at the intersection of Pica Street. The Panorama Center, 1 block from the Central Carmel Carmelit stop, is most easily accessible to visitors staying in the Carmel Center, and offers branches of a number of the country's best women's clothing stores, including Dorin Frankfort.

Steimatzky bookstores has a branch at the Auditorium Mall, just beside the Haifa Auditorium, 142 Ha-Nassi Blvd., and handy to the hotels in the Carmel Center.

Massada Street, with its own Carmelit stop halfway up the mountain between Hadar and the Carmel Center, has become home to a number of small, offbeat antiques and curiosity shops. My favorite stop here is Yad B'homer Contemporary Crafts Gallery at 9A Massada St. (tel. 04/862-9239). Here you can see the work of eight artisans, as well as special exhibits of guest craftspeople. There is also a shelf of very reasonably priced Ethiopian figurines and Judaica. It's open Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday from 10am to 1pm and 4 to 7pm and Tuesday and Friday from 10am to 2pm. Most shops on the street keep similar hours. A walk down Massada Street gives you a feel for the architectural structure of Haifa's residential neighborhoods, with 1930s and 1940s apartment buildings virtually climbing up and down the mountain on either side of the street.

If you take an excursion to the artists' village of Ein Hod, south of Haifa, you can shop for silver, enamel, and gold jewelry; handblown glass; pottery; and other contemporary crafts at the village's official gallery.

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