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A harborside perch near the fish market is a fortuitous locale for this long-standing Hamburg favorite, an institution that’s popular with a well-dressed crowd who looks like they’re used to fancier surroundings. What matters here is freshness, and fish and shellfish are right out of the market stalls and show up in some simple but memorable renditions, along the lines of Arctic trout with wild garlic and rare tuna steak with peppercorns and honey-laced soy sauce. A nice view of the Elbe, through large picture windows and from a small terrace in good weather, nicely tops off a memorable meal.