A converted white-brick, cozy-looking brewery in Altona soothes at first sight, surrounded as it is by lawns shaded by trees. Wood paneled walls and low lighting do nothing to disrupt the mellow mood, the inventive menu combines northern German and international flavors to satisfying effect, and the kitchen throws in an emphasis on locavore ingredients. Crispy whole north German duck with seasoned vegetables is a feast for two, but you can dine solo on roast goose with rhubarb in cassis sauce and other hearty classics. You can eat lightly in the adjoining bistro.
- Frommer's Staff