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The name is a reference to some innovative spicing in such classics as beef bourguignon, but that’s about as exotic as this classic French bistro gets. A regular clientele (many are in publishing and the arts) can count on the kitchen to serve heartier northern-style dishes in the colder months then dip into the south for inspiration come spring. Any time of year, mirrored walls and lots of brass and plush upholstery will probably transport you to Paris.