The Popov distillery left town long ago, but foreign residents still imbibe plenty of vodka at Blue Kiss (Bulusi Jiuba; tel. 0451/8468-4277). The drinks-and-dance venue at Diduan Jie 100, near Toulong Jie, is open from 1pm to very late; go late on a weekend night for the must-see variety show, a mix of high-kick quasi-striptease numbers that leaves even regular visitors shaking their heads in slack-jawed wonder. A less raunchy choice, Portman is open late and serves passable pitchers of dark draft beer. St. Petersburg on Guogeli Jie offers an environment similar to an American chain restaurant (Guangmang Jie 140; tel. 0451/8260-3737). Wherever you end up, do try the refreshing and light Harbin Beer, known as Hapi by the locals, which is China's oldest brew.

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