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Aside from Zhongyang Dajie, the biggest commercial street is Guogeli Jie, where the government has recently organized several streets around themes. There is a street for children (clothing and toys), women (clothing), and, bizarrely, Indians. The Indian street features some saris, but little else from the Indian subcontinent is evident here. The Churin Department Store (Qiulin Baihuo), located in an immense green baroque-style building on the north side of Dong Dazhi Jie (opposite the main post office), was once one of the largest department stores in East Asia. The first floor is where you'll find Harbin's best dalieba -- heavy circular loaves of crusty bread -- and Russian-style red sausage (hongchang), which you can take for a picnic in the nearby Children's Park. A few blocks west, at the intersection of Dong Dazhi Jie and Hongjun Jie, is the Hongbo Shichang, one of the largest underground markets in the Northeast. The market is set up inside an old air-raid shelter, located underneath the former site of the St. Nicholas Church (destroyed by Red Guards in the 1960s), and offers everything from fur hats to black-market video games.

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