Planning a trip to Havana

Orientation

Havana is a major city built around its ample and protected harbor. The oldest colonial-era buildings are closest to the harbor, and the bulk of the expansion heads out west from there. The city is bordered along its northern edge by the Caribbean Sea. The majority of Havana's denizens live in large, densely populated working-class neighborhoods to the south of the principal downtown business and tourist neighborhoods. While there are communities on the eastern side of the harbor, the most important neighborhoods and developments are all found on the western side. These communities are generally laid out in a series of abutting grids, although they often abut at odd angles.

While the streets in Vedado and Playa tend to be numbered or carry a letter designation, the neighborhoods of La Habana Vieja and Centro Habana have only named streets. To make matters more confusing, most of the streets in La Habana Vieja and Centro Habana have two or more names -- those that appear on maps and street signs are often different from their common names. Wherever possible, I've tried to give the most common and popularly used name.

In La Habana Vieja and Centro Habana, street names are generally displayed on little plaques or signs attached to the sides of corner buildings at street intersections. The plaques tend to be hung relatively high, at about 3m (10 ft.) or so. In Vedado and Playa, you'll want to look lower, as most intersections feature a .5m-high (1 1/2-ft.) concrete block in a sort of pyramid shape, with the street name engraved on it.

Street addresses are usually given as follows: Prado no. 22, e/Tejadillo y Empedrado; or 23 e/L y M. In the case of the first example, the address is for building 22 on Paseo del Prado, located between the cross streets Calle Tejadillo and Calle Empedrado. In the second case, the address is for an unnumbered building on Calle 23 between Calles L and M. Note that Cuban addresses frequently omit the word "Calle" or "Avenida." Also, Cubans usually refer to Avenida 5 as "Quinta Avenida," "5ta Avenida," or -- most commonly -- simply "5ta."

Getting Around

By Taxi

There is a host of different taxi cars with modern fleets geared toward the tourist trade. They have all been reunited under Ministry of Transport management and, although they continue to carry the names of the previous companies such as Panataxi, Taxi OK, and Transgaviota, they are now all called Cubataxi and can be called on a central number (tel. 7/855-5555-59). All tourist taxis have meters. (Taxi drivers claiming their meters are broken are gearing up to rip off tourists.) Rates vary somewhat, but most of the meters start at CUC$1 for the first kilometer and then charge between CUC$.50 and CUC$.85 for each additional kilometer. The most economical cabs are the yellow old-style Panataxis without air-conditioning, followed by the new yellow models with air-conditioning. Other options include horse-drawn carriages; the so-called Coco Taxis (tel. 7/873-1411), yellow, round, open-air two seaters powered by a motorcycle; and antique cars that range from a Ford Model T to a 1957 Chevy. Both the horse-drawn carriages and Coco Taxis cost from CUC$5 to CUC$10 per hour, with a minimum of around CUC$3. Gran Car (tel. 7/881-0992) is the only agent for antique-car rentals. Gran Car rates, with a driver, run CUC$25 per hour or CUC$125 per day, or CUC$30 per hour and CUC$150 per day for convertibles. A four-day trip (with 100km per day maximum) works out at between CUC$110 and CUC$135.

Peso taxis, bicitaxis (bicycle taxis), and freelance taxis are lesser options for most tourists. All are illegal for tourists, although it's the driver, not the rider, who is at risk. If you choose one of these options, be sure to fix your price beforehand, and don't be surprised if the driver is somewhat paranoid about the money transfer, and/or refuses to drop you off right at your hotel.

By Foot

Havana is a great town to walk around. It's almost entirely flat (although you need to keep an eye on the sometimes rough pavement) and safe (although there have been reports of muggings and pick-pocketing in Centro Havana). Early morning, late afternoon, and early evening are the prime times to walk. High heat and heavy humidity can make long walks, particularly around midday, a little uncomfortable. La Habana Vieja is best explored on foot, and a walk along the Malecón is obligatory. Attractions in Vedado and Miramar are a little spread out, making them less desirable to explore on foot, although a walk along La Rampa in Vedado, or Quinta Avenida (Av. 5) in Miramar, are both rewarding.

By Car

There's really no reason for tourists to rent a car to explore Havana. Taxis are plentiful and relatively inexpensive. Moreover, streets are poorly marked and it's a confusing city to navigate.

One exception would be to rent an antique car from Gran Car (tel. 7/881-0992). Gran Car's fleet runs from restored 1930s open-air Ford cruisers to classic 1950s Chevys, Buicks, De Sotos, and Studebakers.

If you do want to rent a modern car while in Havana, there is a host of options, including Cubacar (tel. 7/273-2277; cubacar@transtur.cu), Havanautos (tel. 7/207-9898; havanautos@transtur.cu), and Rex (tel. 7/835-6830 or 7/683-0303; www.rex.cu). All three are run by Transtur (tel. 7/862-2686 or 7/861-5885; www.transtur.cu). Micar (tel. 7/204-7777 or 7/204-8888) and Vía Rent a Car (tel. 7/861-4465; www.gaviota-grupo.com) are also options. All of the above companies have desks at the airport and at a host of major hotels around Havana.

In general, traffic is much lighter than you'd find in most major urban areas. However, you do have to pay more attention to a wide range of obstacles, from pedestrians and bicyclists to horse-drawn carriages. While most roads in Havana are in pretty decent shape, it's not uncommon to come across huge potholes or torn-up sections of road with no markings or warnings. Moreover, street markings and signs are minimal, making navigation challenging.

By Bus

For all intents and purposes, Havana's woefully overburdened urban bus system is not a viable option for tourists. Routes are overcrowded, and there are no readily available route maps and schedules.

Truly hearty travelers and independent souls can give the local buses a try. Your best bet is to query locals about routes and hours and where to find the appropriate stop. A large number of metro buses either originate or have a stop at the Parque de la Fraternidad, a block south of the Capitolio. A new bus service, known as taxi rutero, has begun, costing five Cuban pesos. Most buses are entered from the front, although some are still entered from the rear and use an honor system of passing your coins forward. Some have separate lines for those wanting a seat (sentado) and those willing to stand (parado). Fares run around 40 centavos to one peso in Cuban pesos (moneda nacional).

Transtur runs the red HabanaBusTour coaches (tel. 7/261-9015; www.transtur.cu) on two routes with a hop-on/hop-off service. Route T1 starts at Castillo de la Fuerza in La Habana Vieja and terminates at Restaurant La Cecilia (5th Avenida between Calles 110 and 112). T3 runs from Parque Central to Playas del Este. One ticket is valid for the whole day. Bus T1 costs CUC $5 and Bus T3 costs CUC$3. Children 5 and under travel free (one child per adult). Buses run daily from 9am to 7:30pm. All schedules are marked at the bright red bus stops.

By Moto

Visitors can rent mopeds (motos) to tour the city. This might be useful if you want to explore places that are off the beaten track or visit numerous places in one day. A one-day rental costs CUC$24, and a 5-12 day rental costs CUC$21 per day. Moto rental centers can be found at Galiano and San Rafael, Centro Habana (tel. 7/866-8634); Avenida Malecón and C, Vedado (tel. 7/834-6544); and Calle 3ra and 30, Miramar (tel. 7/204-0646).

Fast Facts

Currency Exchange -- Currency exchange offices are ubiquitous around Havana. There are branches of the state-run casa de cambio CADECA (tel. 7/855-5701) throughout Havana, as well as at the airport and in the lobbies of most major hotels. Most banks will also exchange money.

Dentists -- Hospital Cira García, Calle 20 no. 4101, Playa (tel. 7/204-4300 or 204-2811; www.cirag.cu), and other major medical centers also provide dental care. If you want a specific recommendation, contact your embassy, or ask at your hotel's front desk. Alternately, you can contact Asistur (tel. 7/866-4499; www.asistur.cu), which can help you with dental emergencies.

Doctors -- Cuba has a surfeit of doctors and many hotels catering to tourists have one or two on staff. If not, your hotel is still probably your best bet for a recommendation. You can also try contacting your embassy or Asistur (tel. 7/866-4499; www.asistur.cu), which specializes in emergency medical care and insurance.

Drugstores -- Well-stocked drugstores are few and far between in Havana. There's a 24-hour pharmacy at the international terminal of the José Martí airport (tel. 7/266-4105). The pharmacies at the Hotel Sevilla (tel. 7/861-5703) in La Habana Vieja, and Tryp Havana Libre (tel. 7/838-4593) in Vedado, are usually decently stocked. In Miramar, you can try the Farmacia Internacional, Avenida 41 and Calle 20 (tel. 7/204-2051), also at Avenida 3 between Calle 78 and 80 (tel. 7/204-4515) and Avenida 7 and Calle 26 (tel. 7/204-7980).

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 106 for police; tel. 104, 838-1185, or 838-2185 for an ambulance; and tel. 105 for the fire department. At none of these numbers can you assume you will find an English-speaking person on the other end. Also, you can try contacting Asistur (tel. 7/866-4499), which specializes in emergency medical care for travelers.

Express Mail Services -- The main office of DHL, Calle 26 and Avenida 1, Miramar (tel. 7/204-1578; www.dhl.com), will pick up and deliver anywhere in Havana. EMS Cubapost, Calle 21 no. 1009, between Calles 10 and 12, Vedado (tel. 7/831-3328), is a Cuban-run express mail service with a desk at most post offices.

Eyeglasses -- Look for the word óptica. Optica Miramar, Avenida 7 and Calle 24, Miramar (tel. 7/204-2269), is one of the better ópticas catering to foreign residents and visitors. It has a branch in downtown Havana at Calle Neptuno 411, between San Nicolás and Manrique (tel. 7/862-1292), and another at Obispo 364 between Habana and Compostela. For contact lenses, try the Centro de Contactología, Obispo 359 between Habana and Compostela (tel. 7/860-8262).

Hospitals -- Your best bet is Hospital Cira García, Calle 20 no. 4101, Playa (tel. 7/204-4300 or 7/204-2811; www.cirag.cu), which provides emergency services and long-term care. Another possibility is the Hospital Hermanos Almeijeiras, Calles San Lázaro and Belascoaín, Centro Habana (tel. 7/876-1000).

Internet Access -- Internet access is becoming more common and available in Havana, but it can still be a frustrating experience to try to use the Internet. The most popular Internet cafe in town is located at El Capitolio. The rate here is CUC$5 per hour, and the 14 machines here are often booked solid. Aside from this, your best options are the various hotels with business centers and/or Internet terminals in their lobbies; most of these charge CUC$6 an hour for use of the Internet terminals, and CUC$8 or more per hour Wi-Fi. Alternately, you can go to any Etecsa office. These offices sell disposable access cards at CUC$6 per hour, which are good at any Internet-equipped Etecsa office in the country for 30 days after first usage. There's one at Calles Obispo, corner of Calle Habana, in La Habana Vieja.

Maps -- The various Infotur booths and kiosks around town sell a pretty decent map of Havana for CUC$1; sometimes they'll even give you a copy for free. Most rental-car agencies and hotels can also give you a copy of the same, or a similar, map. The Cuban Geographic and Cartographic Institute publishes a couple of much more detailed maps of Havana, including the Ciudad de la Habana Mapa Turistica, which you can get at most tourist gift shops and Infotur kiosks. You'll also find good maps online at www.cubaroutes.com and www.cubamapa.com. The best road map to Cuba is the Guía de Carreteras published by Limusa; it can be bought at El Navegante, Calle Mercaderes 115 between Obispo and Obrapía, La Habana Vieja.

Police -- Dial tel. 106. Although it's possible for someone who speaks English to be rounded up, do not expect to find an English-speaking person on the other end. In the event of serious danger, you are probably better off contacting your embassy (nonlicensed U.S. citizens should contact the U.S. Interests Section only as a last resort).

Post Office -- Most major hotels either have small post office branches, or will sell you stamps and post letters. This is generally your best bet, as the correos (public post office branches) are often crowded and inefficient. In La Habana Vieja, there's a correo on the west end of the Plaza de San Francisco. There's another on the side of the Gran Teatro toward the Capitolio. Both are open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 5pm.

Safety -- Havana is a very safe city. There's a strong police presence and street crime is uncommon, especially in tourist areas. But because streetlights are virtually nonexistent, it's wise to avoid the dark alleys and side streets of Havana after dark. Recently, there have been reports of muggings and pick-pocketing in Havana, so be aware of your surroundings. Solo female travelers should not walk alone through Centro Habana late at night, unless you're walking through Galiano or the pedestrian section of San Rafael. Popular tourist spots are relatively safe at night. Still, given the vast economic gap between Cubans and tourists, you should be careful about where you walk and whom you engage. It is best not to wear much jewelry or make other showy signs of wealth.

Neighborhoods in Brief

La Habana Vieja La Habana Vieja (Old Havana) is the historic colonial heart of Havana. Situated at the eastern edge of the city, in the area beginning around the Paseo del Prado, or Paseo de Martí, and the Parque Central, and extending to the Harbor Channel, it is a dense collection of colonial-era and neocolonial houses, mansions, churches, seminaries, and apartment buildings punctuated by a few picturesque plazas and parks. UNESCO declared La Habana Vieja a World Heritage Site in 1982, and today it is one of the most beautiful restored colonial cities in the world. You will find the city's greatest collection of museums and attractions here, as well as a broad selection of restaurants and beautifully restored boutique hotels. This is an area best explored on foot.

Centro Habana In many ways, Central Havana is little more than the necessary and neglected area connecting La Habana Vieja with Vedado. It is defined on its northern edge by the Malecón, the seaside pedestrian walkway that stretches from La Habana Vieja to the end of Vedado. The stretch of the Malecón (and everything inland from it) between the Hotel Nacional and La Habana Vieja is a study in decay and decomposition. Still, it is quite picturesque and charming in its own way. Centro Habana is primarily a residential area, although it does have a high concentration of casas particulares (private rooms for rent).

Beware: I cannot stress enough the level of decay here. Balconies, crown molding, and other large chunks of brick, mortar, and stone regularly drop off buildings here, sometimes injuring passersby below.

Vedado & the Plaza de la Revolución Beginning more or less at the Hotel Nacional and extending west to the Almendares River, and south to the Plaza de la Revolución, Vedado is a busy mix of middle- to upper-class houses and businesses. As the older sections of La Habana Vieja and Centro Habana began to overflow, residential and business growth centered on Vedado. Calle 23, or La Rampa, is the principal avenue defining Vedado, and it's where you'll find Coppelia, the Tryp Habana Libre (former Havana Hilton), and the Hotel Nacional. The broad Plaza de la Revolución sits on high ground on the southern edge of Vedado and houses several government agencies, in addition to the towering José Martí Memorial, the National Theater, and the National Library.

Playa This upscale residential district is located just west of Vedado, past the Almendares River. The most important neighborhood here is Miramar, home to many prominent businesses and most of the resident foreign community in Cuba. Almost all of the various embassies and diplomatic missions have set up shop in the various Batista-era mansions that make up this neighborhood. There are several large and luxurious, business-class hotels here, as well as many private rooms for rent in wonderfully maintained, neocolonial mansions.

Habana del Este & Playas del Este On the eastern banks of the harbor is Habana del Este, and about 11km (6 3/4 miles) farther east along the coast are the Playas del Este, or eastern beaches, which stretch on for about 15km (9 miles) of their own. Habana del Este and Playas del Este are connected to the rest of Havana by a tunnel running between La Habana Vieja and the area around the Morro Castle. There are also frequent little passenger ferries running between La Habana Vieja and the neighborhoods of Regla and Casablanca. The towns that comprise Habana del Este, Alamar, Cojímar, and Ciudad Panamericana are working class and industrial. The beaches of Playas del Este, on the other hand, are beautiful stretches of white sand fronting the sea. These beaches are popular with both Cubans and travelers alike.

Near the Airport The area near and around the airport is an industrial wasteland. There are no hotels or facilities for tourists here. Playa and Miramar, about a 15- to 20-minute drive away, are the closest neighborhoods for travelers looking for quick access to the airport; however, the extra time and distance to hotels in Vedado or La Habana Vieja are negligible.

Getting There

By Plane

Arriving international passengers clear Customs on the ground level of Terminal 3 at the José Martí International Airport (tel. 7/266-4133; airport code HAV). All of the major car-rental agencies have kiosks or booths just outside of Customs. There's also an Infotur kiosk (tel. 7/266-4094; www.infotur.cu), where you can buy a map and pick up some brochures, and a Víazul kiosk (www.viazul.cu), where you can book advance bus tickets.

There's an ATM among all the booths and kiosks on the ground floor, and another on the second floor, where departing passengers check in. Etecsa, the national phone company, has booths with card-operated pay phones on this level, as well as on the second floor. You can either buy a card from them, or from one of the souvenir vendors on the second floor. Internet is also available.

Taxis wait in a long line just outside the ground-floor exit. In 2008, all taxis changed their name to Cubataxi and all are run by the Ministry of Transport. The rate to any hotel in downtown Havana is CUC$20 to CUC$25; airport taxis refuse to use their meters on this run.

Some charter flights and all national flights arrive at either Terminal 1 or 2. Both terminals also have Infotur offices or kiosks, an ATM, telephones, and taxis.

If you're driving from the airport, the main artery into Havana is Avenida de Rancho Boyeros. This will bring you to the Plaza de la Revolución and the towering José Martí Memorial. In general terms, if you continue straight, or roughly north toward the sea, you will hit the University of Havana and Vedado. Miramar and Playa will be to the left (west) and are best reached via the Malecón, while Centro Habana and La Habana Vieja will be to the right (east).

By Car

Entering Havana by car is a confusing mess. Almost none of the major arteries into downtown are marked. This is especially true of the Autopista Nacional coming in from the east, which dumps you unceremoniously into the midst of an urban mess of some of the city's outer neighborhoods. Similarly, while there is ostensibly a beltway, or Circunvalación, around the downtown area, it and its various exits are virtually entirely unmarked.

One good tactic for navigating Havana is to somehow find your way to the Malecón; from there, the entire city is relatively easily accessible. The main thoroughfare through Miramar and Playa is Avenida 5.

By Train

The principal train station, or Estación Central, is located in La Habana Vieja at Calle Egido and Calle Arsenal (tel. 7/861-4259). There are always taxis waiting.

By Bus

The main Víazul bus station (tel. 7/881-1413 or 7/881-5652; www.viazul.com) is located at Avenida 26 and Zoológico in Nuevo Vedado, on the outskirts of downtown. From here, it is a CUC$3 taxi ride to Vedado and CUC$4 to CUC$5 to La Habana Vieja. There are always taxis available at the station.

By Boat

Marlin's Marina Hemingway, Avenida 5 and Calle 248, Santa Fe, Playa (tel. 7/204-1150 or 7/204-5088; www.nauticamarlin.com), is the principal port of call and official point of entry for clearing Customs and Immigration. When arriving by sea, contact the marina before entering Cuban waters (19km/12 miles offshore) on VHF channels 16 or 77. Commercial cruise ships dock at the Sierra Maestra Terminal in La Habana Vieja, just off the Plaza de San Francisco.