This former YMCA camp, built in 1938, has served as a gracious inn since 1986. The 10-acre main campus has 12 units in two wings and two cottages; most have gas fireplaces, along with European-Hawaiian decor and thoughtful touches such as heated towel racks. Another four cottages lie within a walk or short drive of the lodge; my favorites are the two-bedroom, two-bathroom Pii Mauna ($280), which comes with two extra sofabeds, a hot tub, and a view of the Volcano Golf Course, and the two-bedroom, one-bathroom Olaa Plantation House, an elegantly restored 1935 home with a huge kitchen, breakfast room, and living room ($305). All rates include gourmet breakfast in the superb Kilauea Lodge Restaurant. Note: The lodge and restaurant were both for sale at press time.