Hidden in a strip mall for years, this ambitious restaurant now lives up to its name—it moved in late 2013 to an elevated perch overlooking Hilo Bay, next to Suisan Fish Market and the lovely Liliuokalani Gardens. Fittingly, sushi and seafood dishes are the most reliable pleasers, including horseradish panko-crusted ono and grilled asparagus salad with pan-roasted salmon, but fresh produce from the Hilo Farmers Market also inspires several dishes. Vegetarians will appreciate thoughtful options such as grilled herb eggplant with piquant chimichurri sauce, Hamakua mushroom curry pot pie (one can add chicken or shrimp), or sweet potato gnocchi with broccolini and Gorgonzola. Service can be inconsistent; stay relaxed by sitting on the outdoors deck or at a table with a view, and order one of the creative cocktails.
- Jeanne Cooper