The two stars here are only for the malasadas, Portuguese sweetbread doughnut holes ($1) fried to order, dusted in sugar, and available (for 45[ce] more) with a filling, such as Bavarian cream, tropical jellies—guava, mango, pineapple—and chocolate. The Tex malasada is square, larger, and a little chewier than the traditional version sold at church fairs or the Honolulu landmark, Leonard’s, and sometimes Tex runs out of certain fillings, but the plain are quite satisfying. The rest of the vast menu—burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches, Hawaiian plate lunches—is modestly priced but adequate at best; you’re better off continuing on to Waimea or central Honokaa for a full meal.