The airport is at an altitude of 500m (1,650 ft.) up on the Tepuna Plateau, 13km (8 miles) northeast of Atuona. Fog or rain can unexpectedly close the airstrip here, so be prepared to enjoy an extra night or two on Hiva Oa. Always plan to fly back to Papeete a few days before your international flight home.

Your accommodations will arrange to pick you up if they know you're coming, or look for Vaite Transport (Ida Clark Taxi; tel. 92.71.33 or 72.34.73). Despite her anglais name, Ida Clark speaks scant English, but she will take you into Atuona for 1,500CFP (US$19/£9.50).

Atuona Rent a Car (tel./fax 92.67.07 or 72.17.17), Hiva Oa Location (tel. 91.70.60 or 72.83.83), and David Location (tel. 92.72.87; davidkmk@mail.pf) all rent four-wheel-drive vehicles for about 12,000CFP (US$150/£76) a day. The main road is paved from Atuona past the airport going northeast, but be extremely careful when driving here. The north-shore road is so dangerous that I strongly recommend taking an organized tour to see Puamau.

Fast Facts

Currency Exchange -- Banque Socredo has an office on the main road in Atuona. The ATM on the side of the building is open only during banking hours: Monday through Friday from 7 to 11:30am and 1 to 4pm.

Drugstores -- Pharmacie Atuona (tel. 91.71.65) is in the Taiohae mairie (town hall) complex in the center of town. It's open Monday through Friday from 8am to noon and 2 to 5:30pm, Saturday from 8:30 to 11:30am.

Emergencies/Police -- The emergency police phone number is tel. 17. The gendarmerie in Atuona (tel. 92.73.61) is a major landmark in the middle of town.

Healthcare -- The Atuona government infirmary (tel. 92.73.75) and dental clinic (tel. 92.73.58) are in the Taiohae mairie (town hall) complex in the center of town.

Internet Access -- The island's one hotel and some of its pensions have Internet access for their guests. The post and telecommunications office has two computers for public use .

Laundry -- If your accommodations won't wash your dirty clothes, contact Atuona Yacht Services (tel. 92.79.85) or Marie-Jo (tel. 92.73.43 or 26.14.59), both of whom do a booming business during the cruising yacht season from April to September. They will wash, dry, and fold a kilogram (2 1/4 lb.) of clothes for about 400CFP (US$5/£2.55).

Post Office -- Like most things official in Atuona, the post and telecommunications office is in the mairie (town hall) complex. It's open Monday through Thursday from 7:30 to noon and 12:30 to 4:30pm, Friday to 2pm. Puamau village also has a post office.

Telephone -- There are télécarte phones at the Atuona and Puamau post and telecommunications offices, as well as at Tahauku harbor in Atuona. As in the Tuamotu Archipelago, Hiva Oa residents are as likely to write their phone numbers in two groups as in three (for example, 910 000 instead of 91.00.00).

Visitor Information -- The Comité du Tourisme de Hiva Oa, B.P. 273, 98741 Atuona, Hiva Oa (tel./fax 92.78.73; www.marquises-hivaoa.org.pf), has a visitor information office in a small building near the Gauguin museum. It's open Monday through Friday from 8 to noon and 1 to 3pm.

Water -- Don't drink the tap water on Hiva Oa. The grocery stores sell bottled water. The town of Atuona can run short of water, so don't be surprised if the tap water is suddenly shut off at 8pm.

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