Things To Do in Hyderabad

To see Hyderabad in a day, first drive to Qutb Shahi Tombs (9:30am-6:30pm; closed Fri), where Hyderabad's dynastic rulers are buried. The tombs, built in grey granite with stucco ornamentation, are an interesting mix of Persian, Pathan, and Hindu styles. Standing at the center of its own garden, Sultan Muhammed Quli Qutb Shah's tomb is considered the most impressive. Built around the same time as his tomb, the mortuary bath (Hamaam) -- where the dead were washed before being laid to rest -- lies at the center of the enclosure. From here, consider walking to Golconda Fort; have your driver show you the route, which is about 2km (1 1/4 miles) and takes you through lively villages where you may even be invited in for a cup of chai and a chat. Allow at least an hour to explore the ruins of the historic citadel, arranging for your driver to pick you up at the entrance.

Next, head to Charminar, a four-sided archway with soaring minarets. It was laid out by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah as the centerpiece of a great new city when Golconda's disease epidemics forced him to move his seat to the banks of the Musi River. Explore the Old City quarter on foot, heading westward into Laad Bazaar, where double-story houses with tiny wooden shutters line narrow lanes. Wandering through these perpetually congested narrow lanes, you'll encounter numerous burkha-wearing women scanning the stalls for bargains, and you're likely to score a deal on anything from old saris, pearls, bidri (surface ornamentation) work, and silver and gold jewelry to paper kites, henna, turmeric, and cheap china. Lac bangles, made from shellac encrusted with shiny, colorful stones, are a Hyderabadi specialty that you'll find in huge quantities here. It's also where the people of Hyderabad go to buy traditional bridal wear, or Khopdia Joda, consisting of a kurta pajama, choli, and ghunghat.

When you've had your fill of the Old City, the interiors of Salar Jung Museum are a cool diversion, filled with an unprecedented assortment of kitschy collectibles and works of art . Also interesting for antiques-lovers is Purani Haveli, near the Salar Jung Museum, where several Nizams were born and lived. When Nawab Mir Mehboob Ali Khan, the sixth Nizam, lived here, he had a 73m-long (240-ft.) wooden chamber built with 150 huge cupboards (probably the world's largest walk-in closet), to stock his extensive collection of fine clothing and shoes (also called Nizam's Museum; Rs 70; Sat-Thurs 10am-6pm). Even better is the Chowmohalla Palace (daily 10:30am-5pm; Admission Rs 150), located near Charminar. Other than the enlightening photographs and other memorabilia of the Nizams (including vintage cars, amazing collection of weapons and even the original bedroom) spread through four palaces, the complex with its lovely courtyards and fountains is now used increasingly for traditional music soirees in Urdu and Persian. Next up, visit India's second-largest mosque (purportedly the seventh largest in the world): Mecca Masjid (Kishan Prasad Rd., near Charminar) is said to have been built with a few bricks brought from Mecca, and attracts thousands of worshipers during Namaaz, Friday prayers. It's off-limits to non-Muslims during prayers, but visitors are welcome at other times. Leave your shoes with an attendant before making your way through a long room that houses the tombs of the Nizams of the Asaf Jahi dynasty. Non-Muslims cannot enter the prayer hall but can view proceedings through a screen. In Gulzar Hauz is Jami Masjid, Hyderabad's oldest functioning mosque, dating back to 1597.

Round off the day by watching the sun set over Cyberabad from white-marble Birla Mandir (Kalabahad Hill; free admission; daily 6am-noon and 3-9pm). Commissioned by the Birlas, India's foremost industrial magnates, the main temple is dedicated to Lord Venkateshwara, and is pleasantly free of greedy "guides" and the like. Perched on a hilltop, it looks beautiful when lit at night.

While moving around the city, it is virtually impossible to not cross the main 16th-century Hussain Sagar (lake). While portions of it are not so enticing (giving out a sewage-like smell), there are cleaner and more charming areas which have become hotspots for the more trendy and upmarket local crowd. In the middle of the lake is a massive 18-meter-high (60-ft.) monolithic statue of Lord Buddha. Boat rides from different points on the lake-hugging Necklace Road take you to the rock on which the statue has been affixed (speedboat Rs 160 for four persons; ferry Rs 30).

If you're here for another day, consider a half-day excursion to the Ramoji Film City (Rs 300; be there before 2pm) for an amusing and interesting exposure to the South Indian film industry. It's packed with local star-struck tourists, and you have a good chance of coming face to face with the top actors of the day -- one of their song-and-dance sequences may just be the highlight of the trip. (Check to see what's on by calling tel. 040/2341-2262; www.ramojifilmcity.com.) If all you want is to find yourself in a green lung, the best option lies in the middle of the city: The semiforested KBR Park is a wonderful place for an early morning walk.

Pearls are a major draw in Hyderabad -- it is said that 9 out of 10 pearls in the world travel through Hyderabad for piercing and stringing -- the craftsmanship is unsurpassed here. But do be careful: There are a lot of fakes out there. Kedarnathji Motiwale (near Bata, Pathergatti; tel. 040/2456-6667; www.kedarnathji.com) has been supplying authentic pearls and jewelry since 1908; hardly surprising then that a number of impersonators sporting the same name have cropped up -- make sure you're in the shop with the photograph of the president of India giving an award to the owners. Meena Jewellers (Babukhan Estate; tel. 040/2329-9509; http://meenajewellers.com) is also recommended, particularly if you're after exotic-looking pieces typical of Indian bridalwear. Catering to the wealthy is Krishna Pearls & Jewellers (www.krishnapearls.com), with branches in several of the upmarket hotels, including Taj Krishna (tel. 040/2339-5015), Taj Banjara (tel. 040/6656-4833), and the ITC Kakatiya Sheraton & Towers (tel. 040/2340-0811 or 040/5556-4844); the main city showroom is at 22-6-209 Pathergatti Rd. (tel. 040/2441-7881). Another well-known and reliable name is Jagdamba Jewellers (Gupta Estate, Basheerbagh Circle; 040/2323-6486; www.jagdamba.com). Besides high-quality Hyderabadi pearls, these jewelers also design and manufacture gold jewelry and various traditional handicrafts.

For high-quality traditional Indian garments, visit Kalanjali, a Hyderabadi institution, with four floors of air-conditioned shopping under one roof (opposite Public Gardens, 5-10-194 Hill Fort Rd., Saifabad; tel. 040/2342-3440; www.kalanjali.com). And to absorb the scents and colors of one of India's most evocative bazaars, spend some time in Laad Bazaar near Charminar.

As in any of India's growing and constantly changing cities, Hyderabad too has its share of malls -- Hyderabad Central (Panjagutta Cross rds.; tel. 040/6643-0000) draws the maximum crowd and is a hangout for the young; Lifestyle (tel. 040/2341-0013; www.lifestylestores.com) and Shopper's Stop (tel. 040/2776-1084; www.shoppersstop.com), both at Begumpet, are other popular malls with a variety of branded stores. Hyderabad's version of the Dilli Haat in Delhi is called Shilparamam (tel. 040/2310-0455; www.shilparamamhyd.org; entry Rs 20) -- artisans and craftsmen from all parts of India gather and demonstrate, create, and sell their craftwork and handlooms here. The annual crafts fair is held here in December.