Restaurants in Hydra

The harborside eateries are expensive and mostly not very good, although the views are such that you may not care. The cost of fish, priced by the kilogram at most restaurants, varies from catch to catch, so ask the price before you order. Two longtime favorites off the harbor are still going strong: Manolis (tel. 22890/29-631) and Kyria Sophia (tel. 22980/53-097), both with lots of vegetable dishes, as well as stews and grills. Kyria Sophia's is tiny, so it's vital to try to book a table. A number of cafes also lie along the waterfront, including To Roloi (The Clock), by the clock tower. Omilos (tel. 22980/53-800), by Hydra town's rocky bathing spot, Hydronetta, has terrific salads, with a wide variety of hard-to-find greens and inventive dressings. Out on Kamini beach, Castello (tel.22980/54-101; www.castellohydra.gr) is open from early to late, serving snacks and full meals to elegantly casual young Athenians who like the mushroom-stuffed hamburgers and foreigners who toy with mezedes and Greek salads; there's a resident DJ, a master bartender (apple and pear martinis, anyone?), great views over the sea for sunset -- or sunrise.