Planning a trip to India

Regions in Brief

India is a vast country, roughly divided -- for the purposes of this guide -- into North, East, and South.

The south (again, for the purposes of this guide), accessed most conveniently via Mumbai (state capital of Maharashtra), refers to Goa, Karnataka (with an excursion to Hyderabad, capital of Andhra Pradesh), Kerala, and Tamil Nadu.

The north refers to Rajasthan, its southern neighbor Gujarat, and to the west of these states, the nation's capital, Delhi, and the sprawling states of Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh, which lies in the very heart of the country. Northeast of Delhi lie the largely unvisited states of Haryana and Punjab (the big exception being the Golden Temple at Amritsar, one of India's most wonderful attractions), and -- moving directly north of Delhi -- Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh (one province in the state of otherwise-unsafe Jammu and Kashmir) in the Himalayas.

The east refers to Jharkhand (not a tourist destination), West Bengal (centered around Kolkata, or Calcutta), Orissa (with top attraction Konark), and, moving north into the Himalayas again, the mountain state of Sikkim and the tea-growing hill station of Darjeeling. Seven more states lie farther east (north and east of Bangladesh); their infrastructure is virtually nonexistent. Because travel in these areas is considered less than safe, they are not covered here, with the exception of two outstanding wildlife reserves in Assam.

The largest differences lie between the northern and southern regions. The former offers predominantly a plethora of medieval Mughal and Rajput architecture, ancient cities, deserts, camel safaris, heritage accommodations, tiger parks, Buddhism, and the snowcapped peaks of the Himalayas. The latter is rich with beautiful beaches, Ayurvedic spas, ancient Dravidian/Hindu temples, cosmopolitan colonial coastal towns, and a generally more laid-back atmosphere. We suggest that rather than try to cover both the north and the south, concentrate your energies on one. If you do decide to combine the two, stick to two states, or you'll find yourself exhausted at the end of your vacation.

Mumbai (Bombay) & Maharashtra -- Teetering on the edge of the Arabian Sea, its heaving population barely contained by palm-fringed beaches, India's sexiest city is a vibrant, confident metropolis that's tangibly high on energy. The state capital of Maharashtra, this is home to many of the subcontinent's best restaurants and great hotels. It's also the ideal starting point for a tour south along the Konkan railway to Goa and beyond. Whichever you choose, do plan for an eastward jaunt to the ancient rock-cut caves of Ajanta and Ellora, Maharashtra's startling World Heritage Sites, and -- if you have any interest in the esoteric or want to immerse yourself in meditation -- schedule some time in Pune, where the Osho International Meditation Resort is the country's most upmarket spiritual center.

Goa -- Nirvana for flower children since the late 1960s, Goa still attracts a cosmopolitan mix of youngsters who cruise from beach to beach, looking for action. But Goa is more than a party in paradise. A Portuguese colonial heritage has left an indelible mark on this tiny enclave (India's smallest state), from cuisine to architecture, with plenty to see. And if the crowded beaches and vibrant markets leave you gasping for solitude, you can still find the original Goan paradise on far-flung beaches or in quiet boutique hotels, reviewed in detail in this book.

Karnataka & Kerala -- Traveling south along India's west coast, you will pass through untouched Karnataka; it's possible you'll overnight in the hip city of Bangalore. From there you can head to Hyderabad, the 400-year-old capital of Andhra Pradesh, as famous for its food and minarets as for its burgeoning software industry; or south to Mysore, "City of Incense"; or to the coast, where you can indulge in yoga and Ayurvedic rejuvenation at Om Beach. Whatever you do, set aside time to explore the lost city of Hampi, arguably Karnataka's most evocative attraction, or to join the Jain pilgrimage to anoint the giant feet of Lord Gomateswara, said to be the largest monolith in the world. There's more besides, but who can tarry long when Kerala, "God's own country," awaits? South India's top destination, particularly for the well-heeled traveler in search of pampering and relaxation, Kerala offers ancient backwaters plied by houseboats, herds of wild elephant, coconut-lined beaches, and, of course, the ancient healing art of Ayurveda.

Tamil Nadu -- Occupying a long stretch of the eastern Indian Ocean coastline, India's southernmost state seems little touched by the foreign influences that contributed to the cultural developments in the north. This is where you'll find India's most superb Dravidian temples, from Mamallapuram (7th c. A.D.) to the Madurai temple complex (16th c. A.D.). When you're all templed out, there's always Pondicherry, the former French coastal town where traditional Indian snack joints feature signs proclaiming MEALS READY -- BIEN VENUE and loincloth-clad locals converse in flawless French.

Delhi, Madhya Pradesh & Uttar Pradesh -- Entered through Delhi, capital of the largest democracy in the world, the central states of Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh are the real heart of India, where great rulers battled for power over vast swaths of India, and where you'll find arguably the densest concentration of top attractions on the subcontinent. From the "seven cities" of Delhi, it's a short train or road journey to Agra, home to the Taj Mahal and other superb examples of medieval Mughal architecture. From there you can either head west to Rajasthan, or east -- via the erotic temples of Khajuraho, considered the pinnacle of Hindu medieval architecture -- to the ancient city of Varanasi, India's holiest pilgrimage site, where the faithful come to die on the banks of the sacred Ganges to achieve moksha -- liberation from earthly life. To escape the well-beaten tourist track, head south to the vast plains of Madhya Pradesh, to Bandhavgarh National Park, one of the best places to see tigers in Asia.

Rajasthan & Gujarat -- With crenelated forts and impregnable palaces that rise like giant fairy-tale sets above dusty sun-scorched plains and shimmering lakes, Rajasthan -- literally "land of princes" -- epitomizes the romance of India. Whether you choose to linger in the untainted medieval atmosphere of little towns like Bundi and Shahpura, browse the bumper-to-bumper shops in Jaipur, track tigers in Ranthambhore, overnight on the lake in the beautiful city of Udaipur, or explore the world's oldest living fort in Jaisalmer, you will want to see it all. Meanwhile, Gujurat, immediately south of Rajasthan, is where you can explore a number of intriguing ancient sights in and around the capital city of Ahmedabad, including the magnificent Modhera Sun Temple and the 900 beautiful Jain temples atop the holy mount of Shatrunjaya. And you can venture into the remote, arid, barren, bleak and beautiful province of Kutch, a part of Gujarat where you'll encounter several distinctive ethnic tribes, including the nomadic Rabari people who are known for their intricate embroidery and ornamental adornments.

Himachal Pradesh & Ladakh -- Bordered by Tibet to the east, Himachal Pradesh incorporates great topographic diversity, from vast, bleak tracts of the rust-colored high-altitude Trans-Himalayan desert to dense green deodar forests, apple orchards, and cultivated terraces. Together with Ladakh (known as "Little Tibet"), this is also where you'll find India's largest concentration of Buddhists, their atmospheric gompas (monastic temples, including Tabo, the World Heritage Site in Spiti) a total contrast to the pageantry of Hindu temples. An easy -- and highly recommended -- detour from the region is to Amritsar to view the Golden Temple, arguably the most spiritually satisfying destination in India.

Uttarakhand -- Comprising the pre-Vedic territories of Garhwal and Kumaon, the mountains of the central Himalayan state of Uttarakhand are riven with ancient Hindu pilgrimage routes, and offer wonderful trekking routes. Nonhikers come here to practice yoga at Rishikesh on the banks of the holy river Ganges, or to take a road trip through the less-traveled parts of Kumaon, possibly ending their sojourn looking for tigers in Corbett National Park, which vies with Ranthambhore for accessibility from Delhi.

Kolkata (Calcutta) & the East -- Kolkata, the much-maligned capital of West Bengal, never fails to surprise the visitor with its beautiful albeit crumbling colonial architecture, sophisticated Bengali culture, and wonderful restaurants and hotels. From here you can either head north to the cooling breezes of West Bengal's hill station, Darjeeling, famous for its tea, and on to the Buddhist state of Sikkim (in many ways even more remote than Himachal Pradesh); or head south to Orissa to visit the monolithic Sun Temple at Konark, yet another of India's awesome array of World Heritage Sites.

Escorted & Package Tours

Academic Trips & language Classes

Ekno Experience (www.eknoexperience.com) is based in the Himalayan region of northern India and has a number of learning packages for travelers interested in spirituality, Buddhism, Tibetan culture, and more esoteric activities such as reiki, tarot card reading, meditation, and yoga

Adventure & Wellness Trips

With huge swaths of Himalayan mountains; a massive coastline; an age-old traditional health system that has massage as one of its keys components; a wealth of spiritual and mystical knowledge systems; wildlife reserves sheltering tigers, elephant and unbelievable birdlife; and an ever-expanding market for daring and adventurous fun, India is a formidable destination for anyone looking to combine their vacation with a more rigorous and intense experience. Whether you're looking to sweat from exertion or rejuvenate mind, body, and soul, you'll find your fix somewhere in this diverse destination.

Innovative U.K.-based travel agency Black Tomato (www.blacktomato.co.uk) will put together just about any sort of trip you care to imagine, and they're always up for a challenge. They do off-the-beaten-track tours quite well, and are good at combining luxury with adventure activities and more daring travel experiences. Their website is a good place to start if you're looking for ways of injecting your trip with some added adrenaline: Their 10-day "India + Extreme Thrills" itinerary, for example, includes hot-air ballooning, zip-lining over an ancient fortress city, tiger tracking on elephant back, and an Enfield motorbike safari.

Hiking & Adventure -- Start off by looking at what Shakti (www.shaktihimalaya.com) is offering, especially for its admirable approach to responsible tourism. If none of its programs suit you, try Mountain Kingdoms (www.mountainkingdoms.com) or TransIndus (www.transindus.co.uk), although the latter's itineraries are not limited to outdoor excursions. Steppes East Ltd. (www.steppeseast.co.uk) is another reputable option; it lets you conveniently create your personal itinerary online. Other Himalayan trekking outfits are Aquaterra Adventures (www.treknraft.com), Mountain Travel/Sobek (www.mtsobek.com), and Adventure Center (www.adventurecenter.com); the latter two also have general adventure expeditions. Another interesting homegrown Indian adventure specialist company is 18 Days (www.18days.in), which organizes a variety of treks (some of which are for women only) and river adventures, most of which happen in the Himalayas; all their trips typically last 18 days, but they offer shorter versions for those with less time.

On Horse, Elephant, or Camel Back -- Wilderness Travel (www.wildernesstravel.com) specializes in Rajasthan camel safaris and elephant expeditions. Equine Adventures organizes riding vacations in Rajasthan (www.equineadventures.co.uk). In the Himalayas, Nitin Gupta of Dusty Trail Adventures (http://dustytrail.in) designs superb high-altitude horseback trails.

Wildlife, Birding & Butterfly Vacations -- Wildlife enthusiasts can check on the numerous options for group bird- and wildlife-watching trips from Naturetrek (www.naturetrek.co.uk). For small, high-end, exotic bird-watching tours of India, look no further than Victor Emanuel Nature Tours (www.ventbird.com), based in Austin, Texas; the tours are usually sold out as soon as they come online. Victor often includes the "Palace on Wheels," a weeklong journey through Rajasthan (including Agra) in a luxury train, and there are wildlife trips to more exotic corners of India, such as Assam.

Diving -- For diving adventures in Lakshadweep, take a look at the packages offered at www.diveworldwide.com.

Heritage & Wedding Tours -- Travel writer Dagmar von Harryegg is based in Australia but is passionate about India, particularly the desert states of Rajasthan and Gujarat, where she has developed an extensive network of contacts and friends, from elephant mahouts to reclusive princes. She offers personally tailored special-interest trips (anything from yoga or bird-watching to Bollywood and/or classical dance lessons) for a maximum of eight travelers -- preferably friends, thereby ensuring a flexible timetable "cruising in wonderfully old-fashioned Ambassador limousines with overnight stays in off-the-beaten-track destinations." She also arranges large Hindi-style traditional weddings for couples looking for a really memorable nuptial celebration. Most trips take off in Delhi and can include a visit to the Taj Mahal. For information, contact Dagmar at dagmarvh@tpg.com.au.

Motorbike Safaris -- Motorbike safaris are increasingly popular; if you can handle the fabulous Enfield motorbike, get in touch with Shepherds Realms Camps & Adventures (C-8/8115, Shepherd's House, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi; tel. 011/2649-2849 or 98-1871-2970; www.asiasafari.com), operated by ex-army captain, Raj Kumar; he's not the suave sort, but provides an excellent service for his bike tours into the Himalayas. Also specializing in motorcycle tours is Blazing Trails (www.blazingtrailstours.com), which, in addition to the Himalayas, also heads south and into Rajasthan.

Spa Vacations & Wellness Retreats -- Ayurvedic getaways -- particularly in the south Indian state of Kerala -- have long been a major draw among European vacationers looking for the type of rejuvenation and healing that falls outside the scope of Western medicine. Ayurveda inevitably involves plenty of massage, which translates as a deeply pampering form of medicine. Ayurvedic spas and hospitals are now available practically anywhere in India. The best intensive Ayurvedic retreat in the country is Kalari Kovilakom, which offers a variety of extremely upmarket and authentic rejuvenation, healing, weight-loss, and antiage packages. Kovilakom was conceived by CGH Earth (www.cghearth.com), an eco-conscious Kerala-based hotel group which also runs SwaSwara another swish Ayurveda and yoga resort, this time on the coast of Karnataka. Both places are highly recommended, as are the Ayurvedic centers at all CGH Earth properties.

Among the specialist tours offered by On the Go (www.onthegotours.com) there are spa breaks in the Himalayas and Ayurvedic breaks in Kerala.

Food & Wine Trips

Cooking -- Those looking for a cooking vacation can get their aprons and bathing suits out and head to Goa, where On the Go organizes a variety of special-interest trips (www.onthegotours.com).

For authentic, down-to-earth tours that endeavor to get under the skin of local culture, take a look at what's offered from Insider Tours (www.insider-tours.com). They don't specialize only in India, but do offer several trips in the north and south of the country, and have specialist birding and food tours; the latter include exposure to a variety of cuisine types and an introduction to various aspects of food and culinary culture, predominantly in the south Indian state of Kerala.

Most kitchens in South India welcome inquisitive visitors, with chefs proud to share the culinary secrets that make this cuisine so addictive -- Paradisa Plantation Retreat (www.paradisaretreat.com) in particular worth highlighting here, as are the CGH Earth properties (www.cghearth.com), many of which run regular cooking demonstrations -- but for a more formal approach to tuition it's worth signing up for one of the cooking classes offered at many of the homestays in Kerala where you're trained up in a number of specific dishes: Vanilla County (http://vanillacounty.in) and The Pimenta (www.harithafarms.com) are two such places where lessons take place in the family kitchen of a home on a spice plantation in the foothills of Kerala's Western Ghats (an easy drive from Fort Kochi). After preparing a number of traditional vegetarian dishes, you sit down and dine with the family, and spend time touring local cultural sights.

Volunteer & Working Trips

Contributing your time, energy, skills and knowledge while traveling in a foreign country can be a life-changing experience. In India, it often means working for the upliftment of the poor and inevitably puts you in direct contact with people living a reality you might never even have imagined possible. Please don't expect to change the world, but rather go into any volunteer situation with an open mind and an open heart; don't condescend and assume you have all the answers -- you don't, and you've signed up to contribute your services, not dictate to the very people you've come to help. We've noted a few agencies you can contact to find out about volunteer positions, but before embarking on this somewhat courageous mission, you might want to check out Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org), which has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Projects Abroad (www.projects-abroad.co.uk) is a U.K.-based organization with volunteer placements and internships in developing nations around the globe. Their projects are aimed primarily at gap year travelers, students looking for summer placement, or anyone looking for a career break. Volunteers will be based in Sivakasi near the city of Madurai in the southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu. Volunteers can choose from a wide range of services, including journalism, medicine and healthcare, teaching, and sports work; a 2-week volunteering position costs around $1,995 (a full month costs $2,445), which covers transfers, insurance, food, and lodging. Accommodations are basic (either with local families or in hostels), but with an emphasis on allowing you to experience an authentic, local way of life.

ATMA Mumbai (Atma Education Trust, 794/1, 1st floor, Satguru Shopping Centre, 3rd Rd., nr Khar Station, Khar West, Mumbai; tel. 022/26059810; www.atmamumbai.org) is an educational development NGO with a focus on providing assistance to other NGOs and on improving the lot of children. They work with several schools in Mumbai, and provide non-paid opportunities for volunteers willing to teach or giving administrative support. You'll be required to commit yourself to a project for a minimum of 3 months and there is no financial support of any sort, although they will assist you in finding local accommodation and will pick you up from the airport and provide a basic orientation tour of the city.

Reality Tours and Travel (1/26, Akber House, Nowroji Fardonji Rd., opp. Laxmi Vilas Hotel, Colaba, Mumbai; tel. 98-2082-2253 or 022/2283-3872; www.realitytoursandtravel.com) is an innovative local tour company that runs walking tours through Mumbai's Dharavi slum. They have also started their own kindergarten and community center in Dharavi, and are in the process of launching an NGO called Reality Cares. They can help you find a suitable volunteer position within Mumbai, working either with ATMA or other NGO and volunteer organizations. If you are unsure about how you'd like to contribute your time and energy, Krishna, one of the young, dynamic founders of Reality Tours, will help you understand the city dynamic and its needs.

Ekno Experience (www.eknoexperience.com) has a number of placements for volunteers willing to work, predominantly as teaching or child care givers, but there are also positions for health care givers and special needs care givers. The organization can put together packages that combine volunteering programs with unique travel experiences.

Rogpa Charitable Trust(Kapoor House, near Tibetan Ashoka Guest House, Jogiwara Rd., McLeod Ganj, Dharamsala; tel. 98-1665-9549; www.rogpa.com) focuses on Tibetan refugees in Dharamsala, and runs a Baby Care Centre, which has places for up to 10 international volunteers who are invited to work with the children for a minimum of 15 days. Volunteers work alongside a full-time staff of seven caregivers of Tibetan origin and are expected to provide love and care for around 35 children all under 3 years of age; duties include storytelling, sleep supervision, hosting play time, feeding, cleaning, and diaper changing. Past volunteers have reported that the job is exhausting but extremely fulfilling. You'll find images of the experience on Facebook.

One more organization to consider if you're interested in working with Tibetan refugees, is LHA Charitable Trust (tel. 01892/22-0992; www.lhasocialwork.org), which provides opportunities for foreigners in various fields, from health care and education to building maintenance and computer technology. The trust also offers services to foreigners, including Tibetan language and cooking classes, yoga and meditation workshops, and various therapeutic treatments such as massage and reiki.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermine hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours -- whether they're navigated by bus, motorcoach, train, or boat -- let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jam-packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus they often focus on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

For midrange and budget tours, U.K.-based Imaginative Traveller is popular for its midrange-priced escorted tours (www.imaginative-traveller.com), and includes a tour of the remote northeastern states of Assam, Meghalaya, and Nagaland, which aren't covered in this book.

San Francisco-based Geographic Expeditions (1008 General Kennedy Ave., San Francisco, CA 94129-0902; tel. 800/777-8183 or 415/922-0448; www.geoex.com) is rated among the world's best tour organizers, with innovative, well-structured trips that combine off-the-well-trodden-path experiences with must-see sights. Their portfolio currently includes village tours of Ladakh and Rajasthan, journeys through the south, and trips that focus on festivals in certain regions. Most of their tours last between 12 and 18 days; while they have a schedule of planned departure dates, they are also able to tailor any departure to suit you and your party, irrespective of size. Geographic Expeditions also offers the possibility of completely personalized 100% customized trips, offering all the services you'd expect on a group tour.

One of India's foremost tourism operators, Sita World Travel (called SOTC in some places) is represented throughout the length and breadth of India. Sita offers a wide range of tours to cover a range of budgets and interests. These include sightseeing trips and excursions to India's top attractions, as well as soft-adventure and special-interest tours that can really get you off the beaten track (www.e-holidaysindia.com).

Note that many of the recommended individual and adventure operators listed above offer escorted group tours.

Discovering Spiritual India

However you choose to spend your time in India, you are unlikely to return home unaffected by your sojourn here. Indeed, you are likely to find a moment of enlightenment in the most unexpected places, whether you're engaged in conversation with a shopkeeper over a cup of chai or people-watching on a suffocatingly crowded city street. But for generations visitors have come to India specifically seeking some sort of spiritual transformation, and the increasing plethora of first-rate accommodations and Western-style food options are making it easier than ever -- and in some ways more difficult, by cocooning travelers from unvarnished India.

Basic yoga classes are conducted in many places all over the country, as are the various techniques and methods of meditation. But the best way to experience and improve your skills in either or both of these disciplines -- and possibly find true bliss or meaning in life through a spiritual leader -- is to spend time at an ashram, where philosophical (or religious, depending on where you go) discourse accompanies a meditation and/or yoga program. There are innumerable ashrams all over the country, some the domain of a dynamic guru (the teacher whose role it is to assist the spiritual awakening of devotees); while others (like the Vipassana centers) are not driven by a single personality. In the following paragraphs we discuss where you can go to study and practice classic spiritual disciplines during your trip to India.

Meditation -- The most upmarket meditation center in India is the Osho International Meditation Resort in the city of Pune (near Mumbai; www.osho.com). It's aimed at those who aren't concerned with giving up the real world while they search for enlightenment. Here, you're surrounded by 20 hectares (50 acres) of lush greenery (styled on the Japanese water garden), and the campus consists of marvelous pyramidal meditation halls, with a stylish Zen-styled guesthouse, cafes, the esoteric "Multiversity," magnificent swimming pool, and recreation facilities. For Rs 550 per day (excluding accommodation), you can fill your day with a variety of inward-looking activities, ranging from the intensive early morning "Dynamic Meditation" to the slightly surreal "Evening Meeting of the Brotherhood of the White Robe," during which you get to focus on Osho's voice, recorded during his time on earth. There's another Osho retreat near Dharamsala in Himachal Pradesh, but it's less welcoming of people who aren't already familiar with Osho's teachings.

One of India's most ancient meditation techniques is Vipassana, which translates as "seeing things as they really are." Taught at 10-day residential courses at many centers around the country, this program is not for the fickle -- during the course of the program you must adhere to a strict code of conduct, such as consuming nothing after midday. For many, however, the hardest part of the course is the rule of absolute silence, in which you're not allowed to speak (or read) a word for the first 9 days. The lack of any form of entertainment or sensory stimulation as well is meant to assist true inner awakening. This is certainly one of the most authentic meditation programs you will find anywhere, and one not based on devotion to a single guru or charismatic personality. The course is also absolutely free with no charges for food and board. Check out www.dhamma.org for more details.

For meditation in the Tibetan Mahayana Buddhist tradition, Tushita Meditation Centre (www.tushita.info), a few miles north of Mcleodganj, offers short- and long-term programs for beginners as well as the experienced. Unlike Vipassana courses, which are more or less secular and nonsectarian, Tushita courses include teaching of Buddhist philosophy and religion as well as different meditation techniques.

If all this sounds too committed, Sudarshan Kriya, the revered Sri Sri Ravi Shankar's highly acclaimed breathing and meditation technique, can be learned through courses conducted by The Art of Living Foundation throughout India. For details, visit www.artofliving.org.

Yoga -- For seriously dedicated yoga students willing to make a commitment of at least a month, the country has several well-known centers. Be aware, however, that at most of these places, room facilities are rather basic. The Bihar School of Yoga has an ashram on the banks of the Ganga in Munger, Bihar, where students come from around the world, usually for at least 4 months (www.yogavision.net). Requiring at least 1 month of dedicated practice is the hugely popular (and highly regarded) Shri K. Pattabhi Jois Ashtanga Yoga Institute in Mysore, where the fee of Rs 27,530 for the first month (Rs 17,416 for each subsequent month) is heftier than most, and does not include room and board (visit www.kpjayi.org); note, however, that the venerated yoga master who founded the institute (or shala), Krishna Pattabhi Jois (aka Guruji), passed away in May 2009. For yoga in the tradition of that most famous of Indian yoga gurus, BKS Iyengar, you can contact the regional center in Mumbai. The courses at the Pune headquarters are only for long-term yoga experts and are booked up to 2 years in advance (www.bksiyengar.com). Less intensive, and more flexible for the traveler, is the Himalayan Iyengar Yoga Centre (www.hiyogacentre.com). This visitor-friendly organization has retreats in two locations: in Goa right on the sand dunes at Arambol Beach, and in Dharamkot (an hour's drive from Dharamsala, in Himachal Pradesh).

Ashrams -- For those travelers intent on working on their dharma and karma, destinations such as Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh), Bodhgaya (Bihar), Rishikesh, and Haridwar (both in Uttarakhand) have numerous centers, each providing some direction to an individuals' spiritual quest. In Rishikesh, The Divine Life Society welcomes daily visitors to its ashram on the banks of the Ganga; it professes to embrace the essential truth found in all the religions of the world. Chanting continues 24 hours a day (check the website www.sivanandaonline.org for details). In Bodhgaya, the Root Institute (www.rootinstitute.com) runs 6- to 12-day courses and retreats in Buddhist philosophy and spiritual awakening meant to bring peace and happiness to daily life. You can also attend 1-day workshops and take short courses on topics such as how to meditate, peaceful living and dying, and transforming problems into happiness. Accommodations are available at the institute.

You can also find programs offered by more well-known groups, such as ISKCON (Hare Krishna; www.iskcon.com), Ramakrishna Mission (www.sriramakrishna.org), and Aurobindo Ashram (www.sriaurobindoashram.org) in Puducherry (Pondicherry), as well as gurus with large, worldwide followings such as Sri Mata Amritanansamayi Devi -- better know to the world as Amma (or "The Mother" or "The Hugging Guru") -- who has her ashram in Amritapuri in Kerala (www.amritapuri.org).

For a deeper, more authentic experience -- spiritually and culturally -- Arunachala, the ashram dedicated to the teachings of the late Bhagavan Sri Ramana Maharshi, is 3 hours west of Chennai, in Tiruvannamalai, Tamil Nadu (www.arunachala-ramana.org). Rooms are small, basic, and cheap, but you will have to book 1 month in advance.

Finally, another fairly upmarket ashram, one with a strong following among Westerners, is run by the Siddha Yoga foundation at Ganeshpuri, also near Mumbai (www.siddhayoga.org). Note that this ashram does not encourage casual tourists dropping in; you have to be in touch with their programs to be allowed onto the beautiful walled estate.

A note of caution: Although all the yoga and meditation centers listed here are legitimate, care should be taken before embarking on any spiritual journey in India. (If you don't believe us, read Gita Mehta's Karma Cola [Vintage Books], an acerbic and witty investigation into the way in which unscrupulous gurus market Indian spirituality to credulous Westerners in search of something more "enlightened.") There are some who feel that spiritual teaching should come free, while others argue that spiritualism is being packaged for Westerners in a way they can relate to, and performs basically the same function as a psychotherapist might in the West. Most important: Be aware that literally thousands of gurus and ashrams, "pseudo" or "real," are spread all over the country, some of whose principal aim is to part you from your money or, in worst-case scenarios, to sexually exploit you. Principally, be suspicious of two things: gurus who claim to have supernatural or magical "powers" or are "miracle workers," and those who ask for hefty donations. Check credentials and make your choice wisely.

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

Consult your doctor or local travel clinic concerning precautions against diseases that are prevalent in India. The following cautionary list may have you wondering whether travel is advisable at all. However, don't be alarmed: Millions of travelers leave India having suffered nothing more than an upset stomach -- even this small inconvenience should settle within a few days, your system the stronger for it.

General Availability of Health Care -- Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/232-4636; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, also offers helpful advice on traveling abroad.

Vaccinations -- You will almost certainly be advised to be vaccinated against hepatitis A, cholera, tetanus, and typhoid; also make sure your polio immunization is up to date. Longer-stay visitors should consider getting the hepatitis B and meningitis vaccinations as well. Note that travelers arriving from yellow fever-infected areas must have a yellow fever vaccination certificate.

Packing a First-Aid Kit -- Besides antidiarrheal medication, of which the most important are rehydration salts (available all over India as ORS -- oral rehydration salts), it may be worthwhile to carry a course of antibiotics (such as Ciprofloxacin, which is widely available in India at a fraction of what you'll pay back home) for stomach-related illnesses. It's also worthwhile to take an antiseptic cream, and possibly an antibacterial soap (though the type of soap used matters less than vigilance: Wash your hands regularly, particularly before eating). Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage in their original containers with pharmacy labels, so they'll make it through airport security. Also bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out (include the generic name; local pharmacists will be unfamiliar with brand names). Don't forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses or an extra inhaler.

Common Ailments

Tropical Illnesses -- Besides malaria, India's mosquitoes are also responsible for spreading untreatable dengue fever and virulent Japanese encephalitis. Again, the best advice is to avoid getting bitten in the first place.

Malaria -- Most doctors will advise you to take a course of antimalarial tablets, but as is the case elsewhere, the best prevention is not to get bitten. Malaria is a parasitic infection borne by the female Anopheles mosquito, and risks are greater in warm, wet areas (particularly during monsoon) and at night, when mosquitoes are at their most active. Cover all exposed skin with antimosquito creams (many effective creams are available in India) or sprays as evening approaches, and use repellent coils or electric plug-in mosquito repellents as a preventive measure at night, particularly in hotel rooms without air-conditioning. Note that some plug-in repellents can cause a mild throat irritation, in which case stick with creams. Wear loose, floppy clothes that cover as much skin as possible, but remember that mosquitoes sometimes do bite through thin clothing, so you may need to apply repellent on your clothes as well. Note that many travelers on antimalarial tablets suffer side effects including nausea, vomiting, abdominal pain, and even mild forms of psychosis and depression; ask your doctor to suggest an alternative antimalarial that you can take if you end up having serious side effects (but bear in mind that chloroquine is not an effective antimalarial for India).

Sexually Transmitted Diseases & Blood Infections -- Keep in mind that HIV and hepatitis B are transmitted not only through sexual contact, but by infected blood. This means that any procedure involving a used needle or a blade can be hazardous. Avoid getting tattoos or piercings, and steer clear of roadside barbers offering shaves (although we've noticed that many barbers do in fact use fresh, unused blades). For haircuts and procedures such as manicures and pedicures, stick to salons in upmarket hotels. Take the usual precautions if you are about to engage in any sexual activities -- AIDS numbers are not well publicized, since the disease is widely associated with taboo and "anti-Indian behaviors," but this is a huge and growing problem, and some doctors and NGO workers we have consulted suggest that India is on track to becoming the world's worst-afflicted AIDS region.

Dietary Red Flags & Tummy Troubles -- Many visitors to India fall victim to the ubiquitous "Delhi belly," an unfortunate reaction to unfamiliar rich and spicy foodstuffs that can overwhelm the system and cause symptoms ranging from slight discomfort and "the runs" to extreme cases of nausea, fever, and delirium. To avoid this, simply be sensible. Adjust slowly; move on to spicy foods in small doses. You should also be on your guard about where you eat; if you have any fears at all, stick to the upmarket restaurants, usually those in five-star hotels -- but do venture out to those recommended in this guide. Remember that uncooked vegetables or fruit can be hazardous if washed in water that has not been boiled, so peel all your own fresh fruit and avoid salads. Unless you're in an upmarket hotel, don't eat fruit that has already been cut -- any water on the knife or on the skin of the fruit is likely to seep into the flesh. Be wary of undercooked meats -- they may harbor intestinal worms -- and stay away from pork unless you're in a five-star hotel.

The first thing to bear in mind when diarrhea or nausea strikes is that your body is trying to cleanse itself, so only use an antidiarrhea medication (like Imodium) if you are desperate -- about to embark on a long train journey, for example. Ideally, you should plan a few days of rest and cut back on all food except plain basics (a diet of boiled rice and bananas is ideal), and drink plenty of boiled water (or black tea) or bottled water with rehydration salts. If your tummy trouble doesn't clear up after 3 to 4 days, consult a physician -- you may be suffering from something more serious: a protozoa (amoeba or giardia) or a viral or bacterial infection.

Water Concerns -- More than anything else in India, the water is likely to make you ill. For this reason, you should not only avoid untreated drinking water, but be on your guard against any food product that is washed with water or has had water added to it. When buying tea (or chai) on the streets, for example, check that the cup is washed with hot water and even ask to dry it yourself -- carry a small cloth or napkins so that you can remove any water from anything that is going to go into your mouth; alternatively, carry your own stainless steel cup everywhere you go. Use bottled water when you brush your teeth, and do not open your mouth in the shower. Do not have ice added to your drink unless you've been assured that it's purified (as is typical of upmarket hotels and restaurants). Do be aware that in summer it is not uncommon for vendors selling lassi (a deliciously refreshing yogurt drink) to mix ice into their concoctions, and be exceptionally wary of enticing marketplace drinks such as freshly squeezed sugar-cane juice, which will be mixed with untreated water. If you purchase bottled water from roadside stalls, dodgy-looking shops, or small towns, check the seal on the cap and investigate the bottle for any signs of tampering. Also try to determine the age of the packaged water; if it looks like it's been sitting on the shelf for too long, avoid it. The only exception to the bottled water rule may be if you are 100% sure the water has been boiled for 20 minutes, or if you have been assured that the water has been filtered or treated with reverse osmosis or some similarly effective process. Generally, where water is placed in your room in a jug or some such container it has indeed been treated and is drinkable. If you are in the slightest doubt, simply ask. The same goes for street food stalls in larger cities where there is awareness around the dangers of drinking untreated water -- simply ask if the water is filtered or not. Remember not to clean wounds, cuts, or sores with tap water. Instead, douse and cleanse any open wound with antiseptic solution, cover it with an adhesive bandage, and consult a doctor if it doesn't heal soon. Note: A large number of restaurants and hotels have begun to take the issue of plastic bottles and their impact on the environment very seriously. We all know and understand that water bottled in plastic is cause for environmental concern. We strongly suggest that you make an effort to cut down on the number of plastic bottles that make their way to India's landfills (or rivers or valleys) by encouraging the use of treated water wherever possible -- and give your support to businesses that do so.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Remote areas are alive with insects and creepy-crawlies, but the greatest risk is malaria . Wear shoes when trekking or in wet areas; you can be contaminated from worm-infested soil or mud, which can also be a source of microbial, bacterial, or hookworm infection. Leeches are a common problem in the rainforest regions. Do not try to pull them off your skin; dousing with salt does the trick. It's possible to prevent this nasty experience by wearing special antileech "socks" and dousing your shoes with lime powder. You're more likely to be bitten by a rabid dog or monkey than by a snake, spider, centipede, or sea creature, but it does occur: Wear thick trousers and boots when hiking, tread carefully, keep your eyes peeled, and in the unlikely event that you are bitten, try to get a good look at the animal so that medical staff knows what antivenin to use. And yes, get to a doctor or hospital as soon as possible. Animals are seldom treated as pets in India -- as a general rule, steer clear of them, and should you be bitten, use antiseptic and consult a physician immediately.

Animal lovers beware: India will horrify you if you have a real soft spot for animals. You will feel particularly sickened by the "dancing bears" in North India -- sloth bears cruelly tethered and forced to perform for tourists -- as well as severely malnourished dogs, feral cats, diseased pigs, and even cows, considered sacred, looking emaciated and chewing on plastic bags and cardboard for sustenance. If you can see someone to rant at, do, but for the most part you have to bear it.

Respiratory Illnesses -- The Indian health authorities have taken a relatively firm stance against illnesses such as H1-N1, but despite mandatory form-filling and cursory checks at airports, swine flu victims did turn up in various locations around the country. Authorities have implemented national campaigns to educate people around basic hygiene and preventative health measures to try to prevent the spread of mucus- and airborne bacteria and viruses, but it can be something of a losing battle in a country where throat clearing (often for phlegm) and spitting in public places can sometimes seems to be a national pastime. If you find yourself in enclosed spaces with groups of people, consider covering your mouth and nose with a cloth or handkerchief and wash your hands after making contact with any kind of surface, including someone else's hands.

High-Altitude Hazards -- If you are going into mountainous regions (particularly in the Himalayan regions like Ladakh and Spiti), be sure to acclimatize adequately (usually over 2 full days) and monitor your body for signs of illness (nausea, faintness of breath, dizziness, headaches). Avoid overexerting yourself and be cautious when consuming alcohol which tends to make a bigger impact at higher altitudes. Be sure to drink plenty of water as dehydration is anther symptom of high altitude sickness. Be aware that cooler temperatures at higher altitudes can make you oblivious to the heightened impact of the sun -- take adequate precautions against sunburn .

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure -- Carry high-SPF sunscreen and use it liberally. It's also advisable to wear a hat or cap during the day, and try to avoid midday sun wherever possible. In the cities, pollution often cloaks the high-level exposure, so keep that hat on. Remember that in the high-altitude Himalayan regions, you can experience cold weather and chilly winds while being burnt to a cinder. During the monsoons, certain regions can become impossible to traverse because of flooding. Orissa, Tamil Nadu, and Andhra Pradesh are prone to cyclones in November and December. Keep abreast of conditions by following weather reports.

Pollution -- Air pollution levels in many Indian cities are very high and contain high levels of suspended particulate matter. This is mostly from vehicles, but in places like Varanasi it is compounded by the use of diesel generators. The best thing to do is to always carry a cotton handkerchief with you to hold over your mouth and nose as a mask to breathe through until you are past the offending area. India is also plagued by noise pollution, and most visitors are usually shocked at how often drivers blare their horns. There's really nothing you can do other than accept that honking is usually a necessary precaution to avoid smashing into people, stray dogs, cattle, and all kinds of other obstacles (including cars).

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Don't panic. Medicines are widely and easily available in India. You can even describe your problem to your hotel concierge or receptionist and he or she will arrange for the necessary medication to be dropped off, doing away with possible translation problems. Pharmacies and pharmacists hand out pills and antibacterial medication upon request -- even those that would require a prescription back home. (This is not always a good thing; if possible, consult a physician before resorting to over-the-counter drugs. Also beware of being given incomplete courses of antibiotics.) There are hospital listings for major cities in each chapter, but it's best to consult your hotel concierge regarding the best medical attention in town, particularly if you're in a more remote area. In fact, do not solicit the assistance of anyone who is unknown to your hotel. Well-documented scams operating in certain tourist destinations involve prolonging your illness in order to attract large payouts from your insurance company. If you or someone you are traveling with needs hospitalization, shell out for a well-known private one, and if you're able to travel, head for the nearest big city. Advise your consulate and your medical insurance company as soon as possible.

It's likely you'll have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

Safety

Considering its poverty and population size, India enjoys an amazingly low incidence of violent crime, and the vast majority of visits to India tend to be trouble-free. That said, the usual rules apply -- no wandering around back alleys at night, for example, no flashing of valuables or wads of cash. Foreign visitors may be targeted by corrupt cops looking to get a handsome bribe or payoff, so you'd best steer clear of any suspicious behavior such as purchasing illegal drugs. If you're caught, even with marijuana, there is a good chance that you could be thrown in prison. If you're involved in a car accident, have your hotel manager report the incident immediately. Avoid provocative debates and arguments where alcohol may be involved. Exercise caution during festivals and religious processions, where crowds are usually overwhelming and can become unruly.

Terrorism & Civil Unrest -- The ugly multipronged assault by Pakistani-trained gunmen on Mumbai in November 2008 (known in India as 26/11) devastated not only two of the city's most celebrated luxury hotels, but also targeted several other key tourist spots, including the historic Victoria Terminus train station. Indian authorities have taken these attacks -- and earlier incidents, such as the bombing of Mumbai commuter trains on July 2006, and the bombing of the Indian Parliament in December 2001 -- to heart, and security has been visibly beefed up not only in Mumbai but in key centers around the country. This has meant that India is in fact a great deal safer than before. The exception to this is the northernmost state of Jammu and Kashmir, where the terrorist organization Harakat Ul Mujahideen has issued a ban on Westerners, including tourists. With the exception of the eastern district of Ladakh, avoid travel in this volatile and unsafe war-torn region, no matter what tour operators and tourist offices have to say; regular terrorist attacks continue to occur in Kashmir, and civilians are often targets. Travelers should also exercise extreme caution when undertaking treks and travel to remote parts of Ladakh, where solo travelers are not permitted and can potentially be targeted by terrorist factions; in isolated cases, unaccompanied trekkers have been kidnapped or simply disappeared. Travelers to Goa and Himachal Pradesh should stay clear of any drug-related activity -- the trade has begun to attract nasty criminal elements. Travel to the northeastern states of Assam, Manipur, Nagaland, Tripura, and Meghalaya remains risky due to sporadic incidents of ethnic insurgent violence. These areas -- and Kashmir -- have not been included in this guide.

Almost anywhere in India, communal violence can occur without advance warning, but such incidents rarely involve foreigners, and thus far there have been no attacks by Indians directed against Americans or other foreigners. That said, the threat here -- as anywhere in the world -- should not be ignored completely: Exercise vigilance and caution if you find yourself near any government installations or tourist attractions that might be regarded as potential terrorist targets; avoid political demonstrations, read the local papers, heeding any relevant reports and travel advisories. Access up-to-the-minute travel warnings at www.travel.state.gov. U.S. citizens can also contact the U.S. Embassy or the nearest U.S. Consulate for more information about the current situation in areas you plan to visit.

Crime -- India is one of the safest destinations in the world when it comes to violent assault or threat, but petty crime, like pickpocketing, can be a problem. Apply common sense at all times. Don't carry wallets prominently; and keep a firm hand on purses (women have reported having their purse straps cut or purse bottoms slit). Don't wear flashy jewelry or carry around other valuables. Most hotels have in-room electronic safes where you should stash valuables, including passports and most of your cash. Be discreet about your money, and never take out large wads of cash in public; exercise modesty at all times. Solo travelers are at greater risk of becoming victims of crime; unless you're relatively streetwise, touring India alone may be more pain than pleasure. But know that it is as a victim of a scam that you are most at risk, which at least hurts nothing but your pocket and your pride.

Discrimination

Africans, African Americans, and other black travelers may sometimes face discrimination, particularly in smaller towns or nightclubs in larger cities, though this is not widespread. Some blacks and travelers from other Asian countries have also faced racist name-calling in India, usually from groups of young men in the street, completely ignorant of difference, and who are best ignored. Single female travelers do need to be careful

Warning: Surviving Scams & Con Artists

In India, scamming is an art form -- and you, the tourist, are a prime target. Although it's okay to have a heart, don't fall into the costly pit of naiveté. Politeness is likely to be your enemy. If someone tells you upfront that he's not interested in your money, the warning bells should begin to sound; 9 times out of 10, a casual conversation or unintentional tour will end with a request for payment. Remember: Don't pay for services you have not requested. And when you do ask for help, ask if there's going to be a demand for money at the end, and decide on a help fee upfront. Rude as it seems, often the only way to get rid of a persistent tout, beggar, or con artist is to ignore him and keep walking without pause. Here then is a guide to India's most common scams:

• Street touts -- Touts operate under guises of initial friendship, wanting to practice their English or making promises of cheap accommodations or shopping. Often (but not always), the initial kindness turns sour when you don't comply with a suggestion that you buy something or check in at a crummy hotel. When browsing a street or market, you will be accosted by what appears to be the owner of the shop but is in fact one of a host of men to whom shopkeepers pay a commission to bring you inside -- "to look, no buy, madam." Since scam artists know that foreigners rely on hired transport, you also need to be particularly wary when considering car hire, taxis, guides, sightseeing tours, or travel agents. The rule is: Never jump into a deal.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, exchange rates fluctuate dramatically. At press time, US$1 bought you around Rs 49, and 1 euro equaled almost Rs 70, while £1 was worth around Rs 80. Bear in mind that in spite of the falling dollar/euro, a few dollars, pounds, or euros go a long way in India. For up-to-the-minute currency conversions, log on to www.xe.com/ucc or www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check the latest rates.

You cannot obtain Indian currency anywhere outside India, and you may not carry rupees beyond India's borders. You may have to exchange at least some money at the airport upon your arrival; change just enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel, since the rate will be quite unfavorable.

It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler's checks -- although the latter can really prove to be a nuisance and should really only be used as a backup. Be sure to bring more than one kind of credit card since certain cards may not work in smaller towns or at certain ATMs.

In many international destinations, ATMs offer the best exchange rates. Avoid exchanging money at commercial exchange bureaus and hotels, which often have the highest transaction fees.

A Transfer Will Save You Time -- India is one destination where it is really worthwhile to arrange an airport transfer with your hotel so that you can avoid waiting in long lines at the airport money-changer, dealing with prepaid booths, or negotiating fees with drivers and touts. After a good night's rest, head to the nearest bank or ATM for a cash infusion.

Small Change -- When you change money, ask for some small bills (a wad of Rs 10s and Rs 20s) for tipping or baksheesh. At smaller outlets and vendors, you'll also frequently be told that there is no change for your Rs 500 note. Keep your smaller bills separate from the larger ones, so that they're readily accessible.

Currency

Indian currency cannot be obtained before you enter India. The Indian rupee (Rs) is available in denominations of Rs 1,000, Rs 500, Rs 100, Rs 50, Rs 20, Rs 10, and Rs 5 notes. You will occasionally come across Rs 1 or Rs 2 notes -- treat them as souvenirs. Minted coins come in denominations of Rs 5, Rs 2, and Rs 1, as well as 50 and 25 paise (rarely seen now). There are 100 paise in a rupee.

Note: Badly damaged or torn rupee notes (of which there are many) may be refused, particularly in larger cities, but less fuss is made over them in small towns. Check the change you are given and avoid accepting these.

Banks offer good exchange rates, but they tend to be inefficient and the staff lethargic about tending to foreigners' needs. You run the risk of being ripped off by using unauthorized money-changers; the most convenient option is to use ATMs while you're in the big cities. Always ask for an encashment receipt when you change cash -- you will need this when you use local currency to pay for major expenses (such as lodging and transport, though you should use a credit card wherever possible). You will also be asked to produce this receipt when you re-exchange your rupees before you leave India.

The Battle of the Haggle

Sure, things are cheap to begin with and you may feel silly haggling over a few rupees, but keep in mind that if you're given a verbal quote for an unmarked item, it's probably (but not always) twice the realistic asking price. Use discretion though, because items that are priced ridiculously low to begin with are hardly worth reducing further -- either you're being conned or you're being cruel. To haggle effectively, make a counteroffer under half price, and don't get emotional. Protests and adamant assertions ("This is less than it cost me to buy!") will follow. Stick to your guns and see what transpires; stop once you've reached a price you can live with. Remember that once the haggle is on, a challenge has been initiated, and it's fun to regard your opponent's act of salesmanship as an artistic endeavor. Let your guard slip, and he will empty your wallet. Take into account the disposition and situation of the merchant; you don't want to haggle a genuinely poor man into deeper poverty! And if you've been taken (and we all have), see it as a small contribution to a family that lives on a great deal less than you do.

ATMs

Getting cash from your checking account (or cash advances on your credit card) at an ATM is by far the easiest way to get money. These 24-hour machines are readily available in all Indian cities and larger towns and at large commercial banks such as Citibank, Standard Chartered, ABN Amro, and Hong Kong & Shanghai Bank; in fact, these days, there are ATMs even in relatively small towns, although some of them may run out of cash or have limits on the amount that can be withdrawn at any one time. Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7747; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. You should have no problem withdrawing Rs 10,000 at a time from an ATM (which goes a long way in India), although some ATMs may have slightly lower limits.

Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more).

Credit Cards

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

MasterCard and Visa are commonly accepted throughout India. American Express is accepted by most major hotels and restaurants; Diners Club has a much smaller following.

If You Lose Your Plastic -- Be sure to contact your credit card companies the minute you discover that your wallet has been lost or stolen. Also file a report at the nearest police precinct, because your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number. Most credit card companies have an emergency number to call if your card is lost or stolen. They may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's U.S. emergency number is tel. 866/670-0955. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 905/474-0870. MasterCard holders should call tel. 636/722-7111. If you need emergency cash over the weekend, when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (in India call tel. 1-800/44-1851 or 1-800/111-911, or go to www.moneyintime.com; in the U.S. call tel. 800/435-2226; www.westernunion.com). You can call all these numbers collect by using the access code 000-117.

Traveler's Checks

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233, or 800/221-7282 for card holders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

Be sure to keep a record of the traveler's checks serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Traveler's checks are useful in that, unlike cash, they can be replaced if lost or stolen, but they are far less popular now that most cities have 24-hour ATMs that allow you to withdraw small amounts of cash as needed.

Tips for Black Travelers

African Americans and other travelers of African descent will face as much curiosity as someone with blond hair and blue eyes, but also some degree of discrimination, though this is neither widespread nor specific to a particular region. Mostly this takes the form of travelers being told a hotel or nightclub is full when it really isn't.

Staying Connected

Phone numbers in India change at the drop of a hat, and businesses are slow in updating contact information, including websites.

To call India:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 (from the U.S. and Canada); 00 (from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand); or 0011 (from Australia).

2. Dial the country code: 91.

3. Dial the city code, omitting the first zero.

4. Dial the telephone number.

Note: To call a cellphone number in India, follow up to step 2 above and then dial the 10-digit cellphone number, which should begin with "9."

Making calls within India: Hotel telephone costs are exorbitant, even when you make a domestic long-distance call. All over India, you'll see yellow ISD/STD signs indicating a privately operated "International Subscriber Dialing" and "Standard Trunk Dialing" facility; these are very reasonably priced. To call a mobile phone number that is not in the city in which you are based, dial "0" before the 10-digit number. Note that the Indian toll-free numbers (1/800) cannot be dialed from cellphones and land lines that don't belong to the MTNL or BSNL networks.

Making calls from cellphones: When making calls from cellphones, you'll need to punch in the full area code of the city and telephone number irrespective of where you are calling from (even for local calls). To call a cellphone number within a city, just dial the 10-digit cellphone number; to call a cellphone outside your city, add a "0" before the number.

To make international calls: Dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, dial the area code and number. For example, if you want to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., dial tel. 00-1-202-588-7800.

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 197 if you're looking for a local number within India, and dial tel. 183 for long-distance numbers within India. Don't hold your breath for accurate or up-to-date assistance, and speak slowly and clearly.

For operator assistance: If the phone you're using is not an International Subscriber Dialing (ISD) facility, you'll need operator assistance and must dial tel. 186. Using an ISD facility without the need for an operator will save you a great deal of time. Toll-free numbers: To call a 1-800 number in the U.S. from India, first contact the international operator through the Direct Access service. For a call to the U.S., call tel. 000-117 (AT&T Direct Access), which gives you an AT&T operator, through whom you can make your toll-free or collect call. Note, however, that these Direct Access calls cannot be made from everywhere; to ensure you won't be charged for the call, check with your hotel before dialing.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The international telephone access code for India is 91. All numbers listed in this guide include the local area code (which you would dial from another Indian town or city); this is separated from the actual telephone number by a forward slash (/).

Business Hours -- Banks are usually open weekdays from 10am to 2pm and Saturday from 10am to noon, though banks in larger cities have much longer hours (9:30am-5pm on weekdays, and until 2pm on Sat). Most museums are closed Monday; the Taj Mahal is closed on Friday, along with all other Muslim sites. Hours of retail outlets vary, but many close on Sunday.

Drinking Laws -- Attitudes toward alcohol vary considerably. In Gujarat, prohibition is in force and liquor can only be obtained from the permit rooms of luxury hotels, a concession made principally for foreigners and out-of-state businesspeople. In most other non-Muslim areas, alcohol is freely available and exceedingly popular. In top hotels, you'll find a full range of imported liquor, available to those who can afford the extravagance. In most cities you will encounter "country liquor" bars and insalubrious liquor "dens"; and somewhere on your travels you may be offered local bootlegged stuff -- all of which you're advised to stay clear of. In a few of the southern states, notably Kerala and Tamil Nadu, stringent alcohol laws are in place: Liquor is found in many hotels and restaurants (but not all, since liquor licenses can be difficult to obtain), but outside these licensed premises, alcohol may only be sold by government-owned outlets (where you'll often see queues forming from early in the morning) -- part of an attempt to prevent the sale of dangerous illicit concoctions that have in the past caused death and blindness.

The legal drinking age differs from state to state, and ranges from 18 to 25; in Mumbai, for example, wine and beer may be consumed from the age of 21, but you must be 25 to drink spirits. Foreigners are unlikely to be questioned about their age in the context of alcohol consumption. Laws concerning alcohol use change regularly, often in response to serious concerns around abuse. It's best to drink modestly and restrict drinking to places where it is obviously permitted. Certain religious sites place restrictions on intoxication or even alcohol use, so best to be on your toes if you don't mean to cause offence.

Electricity -- 220-240 volts AC.

Embassies & Consulates -- For quick reference, here are some embassy numbers: Australia tel. 011/4139-9900; Canada tel. 011/4178-2000; New Zealand tel. 011/2688-3170; and the U.K. tel. 011/2419-2100. The U.S. State Department encourages American citizens visiting India to register at the U.S. Embassy in New Delhi (Shantipath, Chanakyapuri; tel. 011/2419-8000; fax 011/2419-0017; http://newdelhi.usembassy.gov) or at one of the U.S. consulates in India. The U.S. Consulate General in Mumbai is located at Lincoln House, 78 Bhulabhai Desai Rd., 400 026 (tel. 022/2363-3611; fax 022/2363-0350; http://mumbai.usconsulate.gov). The U.S. Consulate General in Kolkata is at 5/1 Ho Chi Minh Sarani, 700 071 (tel. 033/3984-2400; fax 033/2282-2335; http://kolkata.usconsulate.gov). The U.S. Consulate General in Chennai is at 220 Anna Salai, Gemini Circle, 600 006 (tel. 044/2857-4000; fax 044/2811-2020; http://chennai.usconsulate.gov).

Holidays -- Expect to find a different schedule of public holidays for each state. There are, additionally, just four national public holidays: January 26 is Republic Day, August 15 is Independence Day, October 2 is Gandhi's Birthday, and December 25 is Christmas Day. Expect a host of religious holidays and festivals which may or may not cause businesses or other places of interest to close for the day (or perhaps for a few hours).

Insurance -- While the cost of quality medical care in India is nowhere near as expensive as it is in the West, you're advised to get yourself covered for any major medical emergency. A basic consultation with a specialist doctor costs between Rs 300 and Rs 1,000, so that's not your real insurance concern. Should you need hospitalization, major medical assistance, or medical evacuation, travel medical insurance will help ease the process and cover all expenses. Note: Try to get "cash-free" insurance for major medical expenses, and carry a list of facilities where this is possible; otherwise you will have to pay first and get reimbursed later -- which is the norm in most of India. For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

It's a good idea to get insurance for any specific valuable items (such as laptops and cameras), and to also cover any luggage that you intend checking in on flights. Most airlines require that you report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. Though airlines are required to deliver luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free of charge, in India they cannot do so because Customs rules require that you clear your bags through Customs personally. Once your lost bags have arrived, you will have to make a trip to the airport to claim them.

For information on traveler's insurance, trip-cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Internet Access -- Today even small towns have decent Internet connectivity, although coverage may be more limited in remote places such as Ladakh, where the Internet must be accessed via satellite connection. Business centers at luxury hotels often charge exorbitant rates; there's often Internet connection for 10% of the cost just around the corner. Although they're not always fantastic in terms of connection speed (or cleanliness), cybercafes are a roaring trade and usually cheap, albeit frustratingly slow. Keep an eye out for Sify iway (www.iway.com) and Reliance Webworld (www.rcom.co.in) Internet centers, both offering much faster broadband connections than average stand-alone establishments. Sify, for instance, has some 2,500 Internet browsing centers around the country, half of which also offer Internet telephone services. Log on to their website to find a list of centers in a particular city. If you're planning on being in India for an extended period, or rely heavily on Internet access while traveling, consider investing in a data card that allows you to connect to the Internet through your laptop while on the road: Reliance Netconnect (www.rcom.co.in) is one of a number of mobile phone service providers that also offers wireless Internet connectivity by means of a USB modem.

Language -- You shouldn't have to battle too much if you speak English with a clear accent. Don't assume, however, that everyone in India understands or speaks English (or Hindi for that matter). Also don't feel affronted when you run into locals who seem to smile in acknowledgment, only to reveal much later that they haven't the foggiest notion what you're talking about; they are simply trying to make you feel more at home. Hindi is widely spoken throughout North India, while all the states are divided linguistically. For example, Tamil is spoken in Tamil Nadu, Kannada in Karnataka, Telugu in Andhra Pradesh, Malayalam in Kerala, Gujarati in Gujarat, and Konkani in Goa; and there are literally hundreds of local dialects. You'll also come across a lot of what is often called Hinglish, where local terms (in Hindi) are mixed with English phrases. This usage is becoming increasingly widespread. You'll notice it immediately in advertising billboards and on television shows, but also in general conversation.

Legal Aid -- The local strategy for dealing with most potentially sticky encounters with the police or traffic department is to offer a bribe (baksheesh). Should you find yourself in any legal tangle, it's best to immediately contact your local consular representative and seek their advice.

Mail -- Buy stamps for letters and postcards from your hotel, and have your concierge post them for you. International postage is extremely affordable, and the Indian postal service is generally efficient. However, sending a package or parcel abroad involves a tedious process of wrapping it in cloth and sealing it with string and wax (again, ask your concierge); you'll also have to complete a Customs declaration form. All this may cost you a great deal of time at the post office (9am-5pm). Also, bear in mind that surface mail runs the risk of spending months in the system, or of never arriving at all. You can spare yourself a great deal of torment by having a local or international courier company deliver packages (including shopping that can't fit into your case!); it's relatively inexpensive and there are literally dozens of these companies in every town (again, ask your concierge or host).

Newspapers & Magazines -- Major English dailies include The Hindu (www.hindu.com), The Indian Express (www.expressindia.com), The Times of India (http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com), and Hindustan Times (www.hindustantimes.com), as well as Kolkata's The Statesman (www.thestatesman.net) and The Telegraph (www.telegraphindia.com). These make for interesting reading and will keep you up to date on local and international events. You may find that much of the writing assumes a great deal on your part, however. If you haven't been following certain stories for some time, the latest update may be impossible to fathom. The Economic Times and Mint provide the most detailed business news. Each week you can pick up fresh issues of The Week, India Today, Outlook, and Frontline (which provide quite venomous analyses of the nation's social, political, and economic situations). These are available at newsstands and railway stations and not only help you pass travel time but add immensely to your understanding of India. If you're looking for general travel features, the monthly Outlook Traveller (www.outlooktraveller.com) features colorful articles from an Indian perspective. In Mumbai and Delhi, the twice-monthly Time Out is indispensable if you're looking for what's hot and happening.

Smoking -- Whatever curbs the government has tried to place on cigarette usage, there are still relatively slim signs of society giving in to concerns about the hazards of smoking. Things are improving, though, and whereas just a few years ago it seemed as though just about every male in India smoked something, there's a marked drive towards health and social consciousness -- this is probably more evident among the upper echelons of society and in cities where people are more regularly exposed to forward-thinking advertising campaigns. On the other hand, the cities are also where high-cool is sometimes defined by cigar toking, so it's ultimately up to the lawmakers to change attitudes. Where they have made changes, they've been pretty thorough: Shimla (in Himachal Pradesh) theoretically forbids smoking in any public place, including on the streets; Chandigarh (the Union Territory from where the Punjab government operates) has been working towards similarly far-reaching legislation; and in Trivandrum (Kerala's capital), smoking in restaurants and public places is banned (and the rule is being enforced). Smoking is also forbidden on all trains, so if someone is smoking on your train, you are well within your rights to ask them to stop. Most luxury hotels have introduced nonsmoking rooms; if you don't smoke, request one when you book your reservation.

Taxes -- The tax on hotel accommodations varies from state to state, and sometimes by city; it may be anywhere between 5% and 12.5%, and may differ within the same hotel according to the level of luxury and comfort you're experiencing. On the other hand, in regions like Ladakh, there is no taxation. Additional taxes on restaurant food and alcohol also vary from state to state. Imported liquors attract a similarly disagreeable sin tax, making local brands far more attractive than their quality might suggest. In Tamil Nadu, for example, a whopping 73.5% tax is levied on imported liquor. Restaurant bills often include additional charges (such as a service tax) that usually account for between 10% and 15% of the total cost of your meal.

Time -- Despite India's vastness, the entire country operates according to the same time zone, 5 1/2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. That's 9 1/2 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time (New York) or 10 1/2 when daylight saving time comes into effect in the U.S. Note: You may find your sense of time threatened while you're in India; the rule of thumb is don't panic. Remember that there's no point in getting worked up about delayed trains and such. In fact, when you arrive on time or ahead of schedule, be thankful. Use "wasted time" to chat with locals.

Tipping -- Tipping in India is an industry unto itself, and it's a relief to find yourself in an environment like the Oberoi, where individual tipping is not encouraged, for this very reason. Bear in mind that many of the people who serve you are possibly living on the bread line, and your monetary contribution will be greatly appreciated; handing over a Rs 10 or Rs 20 note will hardly dent your pocket. Obviously it's not worthwhile to tip someone who hasn't eased your journey, but do reward those drivers, guides, and hotel staff who go out of their way to make your stay an enjoyable one. A driver or guide who's been with you an entire day will be most grateful for an extra Rs 200 to Rs 300.

Tipping is but one strain of India's all-pervasive baksheesh system, which is apparently an accepted means of distributing wealth to the lower echelons of society. As a foreigner, you will be regarded as wealthy, and your endless charity is almost expected by those who are less fortunate. It's therefore an excellent idea to always keep a stash of Rs 10 notes in an easy-to-access pocket, so that you can hand cash to the person who has just carried your bags or given you an unsolicited tour or looked after your shoes (the list is endless), and is now hanging around hopefully. Occasionally, someone will bluntly demand baksheesh, which is the same term that may be used by beggars, religious mendicants, and barefoot children looking for a handout. You are not obliged to pay anything, of course, but your conscience and irritation level will probably sway you either way. Tip: In Hindu temples, priests will happily encourage you to hand over huge sums of cash, often insisting that the money is for the poor. Be wary of such scams, and bear in mind that many temple officials have grown wealthy on charity intended for the poor.

Toilets -- Use only toilets in your hotel, in reputable restaurants, shopping malls, airports, and other modern-looking institutional buildings. Tales of toilet horror stories may be exaggerated to some extent, but there's no point exposing yourself to potential shock. If you do feel compelled to use a "local" or traditional toilet, be prepared by carrying toilet paper, as its use is not the norm among the vast majority of the population. However, toilet paper is a major contribution to environmental devastation and, by all accounts, the use of water rather than paper (which often cannot be flushed down the system) is more hygienic and environmentally friendly. If you're unsure of toilet etiquette in any place, simply ask.

Visitor Information -- India Tourism is going all out to seduce international visitors, and has fairly extensive representation around the globe. Access its website (www.incredibleindia.org) for general information, but be aware that some pages may be out of date or permanently under construction. The websites do offer links to all of India's regional tourism departments, some of which provide fantastic coverage of what's on offer.

India Tourism offices may be found worldwide as follows. In the U.S.: 3550 Wilshire Blvd., Room 204, Los Angeles, CA 90010, tel. 213/380-8855; and Suite 1808, 1270 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10020, tel. 212/586-4901. In the U.K.: 7 Cork St., London W1X 3LN; tel. 020/7437-3677. In Canada: 60 Bloor St. (W), Suite 1003, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3B8; tel. 416/962-3787. In Australia: Level 5, 135 King St., Glasshouse Shopping Complex, Sydney, NSW 2000; tel. 2/9221-9555.

You can access up-to-the-minute news and stories through the websites of some of the country's largest English dailies, including http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com, www.hindustantimes.com, www.expressindia.com, and www.hindu.com, as well as Mumbai-based www.dnaindia.com. For up-to-date news from the two premier English-language 24/7 news channels, and updates on Bollywood movies, visit www.ndtv.com or http://ibnlive.in.com; for travel-related information and features, visit www.outlooktraveller.com.

When to Go

Your choice of where and when to go will be determined primarily by the weather. India's vastness means that the climate varies greatly from region to region, and sometimes even from day to night, as in the desert regions. The Indian year features six seasons: spring, summer, the rainy season, early and late autumn, and winter, but effectively there are but three -- summer, winter, and monsoon.

You'll be better off visiting during the high-season winter months (Nov-Mar), when most of the country experiences pleasant, moderate temperatures (still hot enough to luxuriate in the pool), though cities in the north get chillier days as snow falls in the Himalayas. As a rule, always be prepared for warm to hot days, with the possibility of cooler weather at night. (If this has you worrying about how to pack, remember that you can pick up the most wonderful throwaway cotton garments for next to nothing and a real Pashmina scarf in every color to ward off an unexpected chill.) As with all season-driven destinations, there is a downside to traveling during peak months: From December to January, for example, Goa swells to bursting point with foreigners and city folk who arrive for the sensational beaches and parties. Lodging rates soar during these periods, so you may want to wait until the shoulder season (Sept-Oct, Mar-Apr), when there are fewer people and rates are very negotiable.

Summer (generally Apr-June) sees little traffic, and for good reason -- the daytime heat, particularly in India's north-central regions, is debilitating, even for the locals. This is the time to plan your trip to the Himalayas instead, particularly to high altitude provinces such as Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh in Jammu and Kashmir. Ladakh, a magical region in the far north of the country, can only be visited June through September -- the rest of the year it remains a destination that's strictly for hard-core adventurers looking to trek through ultraextreme cold conditions.

The monsoon drenches much of the country between June and September, usually starting its season in Kerala. Tamil Nadu and parts of Andhra Pradesh don't get too much rain during this period; instead they get more rainfall from a second monsoon that hits just this region around mid-October and runs through December. In Rajasthan, central India, and the northern plains, the rains typically arrive by July and fall until early September. Some of the regions are at their most beautiful during the monsoon, but it can be difficult to move around, and there is a higher risk of exposure to diseases like malaria. Flooding, power failures, and natural destruction are also not uncommon. We have noticed, however, that the monsoon has become increasing fallible and locals will tell you that global warming has had a devastating impact on the rains. These days, it's possible to spend most of June in Kerala and see only a few days of intense showers.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Anyone entering India will require a passport. The websites listed there provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing passport applications. For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" section of the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Consular Affairs website at http://travel.state.gov.

For other information, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Travelers to India -- unless carrying an Indian, Nepalese, or Bhutanese passport -- should apply for a tourist visa from their nearest Indian Consulate or High Commission. This is valid for multiple entries for a prestipulated period of time from the date of issue (this will depend on your travel dates and the country in which you are applying). Given the nature of India's bureaucracy, the rules and fees for application change regularly, so it's best to check with your travel agent or with the relevant authority for the latest visa information. Accurately completed visa application forms must be accompanied by two passport-size photographs (on a light background) and the appropriate processing fee; apply well in advance to avoid unforeseeable delays. You won't be admitted to India unless your passport is valid for at least 6 months after your entry, and it should typically also be valid for at least 3 months beyond the period of your intended stay. Check for fee structure and more details at www.indianembassy.org, but note that a number of Indian embassies and consulates now outsource the visa procurement process, meaning that you need to go through a third-party that specializes in dealing with entry visas. In the U.S., the Indian Embassy is at 2107 Massachusetts Ave., Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/939-7000); and there are consulates in Houston, New York, San Francisco, and Chicago -- but the visa agency you'll be dealing with is Travisa (http://indiavisa.travisaoutsourcing.com). In Canada, visa applications can be made through http://in.vfsglobal.ca; there are consulate generals in a number of cities across the country. In the U.K., India House is in Aldwych, London WC2B 4NA (tel. 020/7632-3149; www.hcilondon.net); for visa fees and procurement in the U.K., visit http://in.vfsglobal.co.uk. In Australia, the Consulate General in Sydney (Level 27, 25 Bligh St.; tel. 02/9223-9500; www.indianconsulatesydney.org) outsources visa applications to VFS Australia (www.vfs-in-au.net; tel. 1900-960-960).

If you're applying for a visa in a country where India does not have a representative, you are advised to make inquiries at the nearest British authority.

A special permit is required for foreigners wishing to visit the Lakshadweep Islands, as well as sensitive border areas including Sikkim, parts of Ladakh, and certain roads in eastern Himachal Pradesh. For Lakshadweep, your permit will be arranged when your accommodations are reserved. Permits for the other restricted regions can be obtained in India, sometimes within a few frustrating hours. Carry a number of passport-size photographs and copies of the personal particulars and Indian visa pages of your passport to apply for these permits.

Customs

What You Can Bring into India -- You can bring as much foreign currency into India as you like; if you have over $10,000 in cash or traveler's checks, however, you should complete a declaration form. You may not import Indian currency into India. In addition to your personal effects, you are allowed 2 liters of alcohol, and 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars. (Know that foreign liquors and imported cigarettes are very heavily taxed and in some areas difficult to come by.) You may carry a cellphone, camera, and pair of binoculars, but officially you may have only five rolls of film. You must complete a special Tourist Baggage Re-Export Form if you are carrying valuables such as a laptop computer, major video equipment, special camera gear, or high-value jewelry. Although there is a strong possibility that you may encounter difficulties upon leaving if these forms are not completed, you'll discover a general malaise among Customs officials, who seldom hassle foreign visitors on international flights. Also, much of the bureaucratic heavy-handedness has eased in recent years, and there is less suspicion of foreign travelers. In fact, arrival in India is incredibly straightforward and generally hassle-free.

What You Can Take Home from India -- You may not export Indian currency. Exchange all notes at the airport before you depart. Note that airport money-changers frequently run out of certain currencies, so you might want to complete any exchange before you go to the airport. There is a restriction on the exportation of anything over 100 years old, particularly works of art and items of cultural significance. It is illegal to export animal or snake skins, ivory, shatoosh wool, or anything that has been produced using these materials. Generally, jewelry valued under Rs 10,000 may be exported, while gold jewelry valued up to Rs 2,000 is allowed.

For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips for Senior Travelers

India is not for the fainthearted, and this is definitely the one place senior travelers should use the services of a reliable agency and organization that targets the 50-plus market.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those aged 55 and over. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956, or 416/558-5000 outside North America; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older.

Etiquette

As a rule of thumb, pay attention to what local people are doing, and try to blend in as much as possible.

Appropriate Attire -- In India, your attire will often signal your status, and casual dress will make it more difficult for you to elicit respect. Women should wear loose, cool clothing that covers up as much as possible. Exposed flesh suggests that you're too poor to dress properly, or that you're shameless about flaunting your body. Transparent and tight clothes are also considered shameless; the more you can disguise your shape, the better. Men should avoid short shorts, which are considered bizarre outside large cities or beaches. Women visiting public beaches should be as discreet as possible and avoid sunbathing on empty beaches. In mosques and Sikh gurudwaras you need to make sure your head is covered -- a worthwhile purchase is a scarf you can keep in your bag at all times. In certain Hindu temples -- particularly in South India -- a man may be required to wear a lungi (a long piece of cloth worn like a kilt) and remove his shirt. Always check what others are wearing before venturing in, and approach slowly so that someone can intervene before you offend the sanctity of the holy sanctuary.

Shoes -- Shoes are never worn in places of worship -- you are even required to remove your shoes when entering certain churches. It makes good sense to wear a pair of comfortable, cool, and cheap sandals, like flip-flops -- they're easy to remove and unlikely to be stolen; leaving a pair of expensive shoes outside a temple or mosque is not a good idea. However, you can leave your footwear with an attendant outside for a tiny tip (Rs 2-Rs 10) -- and you will almost certainly get them back. Some museums and historical monuments may also require you to remove your shoes, and you should extend a similar courtesy when entering someone's home. In Sikh gurudwaras you are expected to wash your feet after removing your shoes.

Touching -- Public physical contact between men and women is far less acceptable in India than in other parts of the world. Some Indians -- particularly those who live in the larger cities and have traveled -- understand that Western men and women may shake hands (or even kiss) as expressions of social friendship, but you should be cautious of casually touching an Indian woman in small towns and villages. Even the slightest touch can have a sexual connotation. Remember that it is not unusual to encounter someone who has never seen a foreign face; attempting to shake hands with such a person may prove overwhelming to him or her. When in doubt, fold your hands in front of you, bow your head slightly, and simply say "Namaste" (pronounced nah-mah-stay). Traditionally, Indian people use the left hand as part of their toilet routine. Consequently, the left hand is considered unclean, and you should only offer your right hand when greeting someone. Don't touch a religious object with your feet or left hand. People generally use the right hand for handing over or receiving cash as the left is considered inauspicious. If you wish to put your feet up in a train or other form of public transport, take your shoes off first. If you are booked on a higher berth and don't want to leave your expensive shoes at floor level, put them in a plastic bag and take them up to your berth with you. If you inadvertently touch/kick someone with your foot, it's customary to extend an apology. In fact you will notice that in some parts of India, if an Indian accidentally touches you with his foot, he will immediately follow that up with a hand gesture that first lightly brushes you with the tips of the fingers and then brings that hand up towards his chest or forehead. Even if nothing is said, this constitutes an apology.

Avoiding Offense -- Indians love to discuss all manner of subjects, and more educated individuals will readily get into wonderfully heated debates -- which may be among your most memorable moments in India. Do exercise discretion, however, when trying to understand the enigma of India's overwhelming poverty and the caste system. Don't harshly judge or criticize things you don't understand fully; Indians can be quite passionate about their nation and will defend it unequivocally. Words are seldom enough to offend an Indian, but avoid strong swear words in the context of an argument or insult. And always be considerate and humble when entering a place of worship.

Eating & Drinking -- When eating at someone's home, remember that it is not unusual for the woman to cook and spend the entire evening serving. Don't interfere with this custom, and don't venture into the kitchen -- especially if you're a man. Foreign women will generally be treated as "honorary men" and should dine at the table unless an alternative suggestion is made. Note that the above rules apply more in orthodox homes and to a much lesser degree in modern city homes, where in fact it is polite to offer help, even if the answer is negative. Use only your right hand when eating (unless knives and forks are used), and follow the lead of your host when you're unsure. Don't be afraid to ask about the food, but you must be quite firm about not drinking water (unless it's bottled) and being mindful of salads and cut fruit . Consider bringing your own bottled water with you.

Mind Your Temper -- When confronted with bureaucracy and IST (Indian "Stretchable" Time), maintain your cool. Schedules are bound to go awry and government offices are notoriously inefficient, so there's simply no point in losing your temper. You'd be well advised to adopt a similar attitude with wealthy and "important" Indian men who, as a matter of course, cut into line. Rather than fly into a rage, point out the lack of consideration firmly and earnestly or, better still, smile beatifically and practice a meditation technique.

Photography -- Photography at airports or military installations is strictly forbidden, as it is at all burning ghats (crematorium sites) in Varanasi. Note that carrying a camera to attractions throughout India will add significantly to your entry fee. In touristy areas don't be surprised if people offer to be photographed and then demand payment.

Saying Yes Even When the Answer Is No -- When you ask for directions, people will often send you in the wrong direction rather than admit they don't know the way. Try not to ask questions that require a yes or no answer, because you will almost always only hear yes. In other words, rather than ask, "Is this the way to the Gateway of India?" try, "Can you tell me the way to the Gateway of India?" If the person seems hesitant when giving you directions, verify that you are going the right way by asking someone else a few minutes down the road.

Tips on Accommodations

One of the best developments in the past decade has been the increase in luxury boutique-type options offering international standards of service and comfort and flavored with Indian accents -- like beautiful craftsmanship and ancient traditions (we're talking Ayurvedic masseurs on tap) -- which means that the subcontinent is now a very desirable destination for the visitor wanting relaxation and pampering. To find the most unusual independent hotels, guesthouses, and homestays, an excellent resource for those who don't want the classic resort or chain hotel experience is Alastair Sawday's Special Places to Stay: India (www.sawdays.co.uk), at press time about to go into its third edition. Though the properties listed pay to be in the book, they are all, almost without exception, special in some way; the best are included in this guide (plus many more that cannot afford or choose not to pay for publicity).

Capitalizing on the desire for totally individual boutique-style lodgings, CGH Earth (www.cghearth.com; our favorite chain in South India), has been purchasing, building and/or skillfully renovating heritage properties throughout the south, and staffing it with locals usually with one of their highly trained managers at the helm. Their properties are so unique, and their standards generally so high, that -- should your entire South India itinerary comprise only their properties -- you will return home delighted.

Of course we all knew India had "arrived" when the ultraluxe Amanresorts entered the fray with Amanbagh, arguably the finest resort-style property in India, but the pace was first set by the Vil's properties, owned by India's very own, very fabulous Oberoi chain. Besides the Vil?s properties (the best of which is Amarvil's in Agra, though many rate Udaivil's in Udaipur as their top choice), Oberoi runs some of the very best city hotels, as well as several spa resorts in key tourist destinations and a luxury backwater cruiser in Kerala. As with the three Aman properties in India (including their exceptional new hotel in Delhi -- probably our favorite city hotel in the country), Oberoi hotels and resorts attract top dollar, but you can generally count on superb service and attention to detail. Best of all, you can often get great discounts on room rates by reserving in advance over the Internet (www.oberoihotels.com). Note that Oberoi also operates a tier of smaller, less opulent hotels under the Trident banner; aimed principally at business or family travelers; trained to Oberoi standards, service in these hotels is excellent and they usually offer very good value.

India's other famous hotel chain is the Taj (www.tajhotels.com), with an enormous inventory of properties, particularly in South India, where Oberoi is largely absent. Quality varies somewhat (and service does not match that of the Oberoi group), but comfort is generally guaranteed, particularly in big cities and resort destinations -- the best properties are the Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai (less so the adjoining Tower wing), Rambagh Palace in Jaipur, Lake Palace Hotel in Udaipur, and Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur. They also offer comparatively excellent service and facilities at their hotels in smaller cities such as Aurangabad and Chandigarh. At press time, the Taj group is rolling out an extensive rebranding campaign, and has introduced several new identities (often used for existing properties); these include The Gateway (usually middling, unexceptional hotels) and Vivanta by Taj (very exclusive business hotels). Taj also operates a budget chain, Ginger.

Safari experiences have changed dramatically since the Taj group launched Taj Safaris, teaming up with acclaimed South African conservation group &Beyond (formerly CC Africa). Their first luxury safari lodge, Mahua Kothi, at the Bandavgarh tiger reserve in Madhya Pradesh, is a sublime, sexy property with some of the country's best guides. They already have three more lodges in Madhya Pradesh -- at Kanha, Panna and Pench -- and are planning more in the next few years. Meanwhile, Amanresorts' tented lodge at Ranthambhore, Aman-i-Khás, remains superlative.

Don't think that India's high-end hotel sector is anywhere near saturated. The Four Seasons opened its first hotel in Mumbai in 2008, and it is among our favorite city hotels in the country (with an interesting location, brilliant concierge desk, and good community development programs). And two fairly low-key local chains have emerged: Ista Hotels (now in Amritsar, Bengaluru, and Hyderabad) and O Hotels (currently in Pune and Goa) both offer pretty good homegrown luxury, and are likely to expand their portfolios in the next few years. One Indian chain that is aiming to compete with Oberoi and Taj is The Leela, which has teamed up with Kempinski and, having sorted out its service standards, is scheduled to open many large, luxurious, environmentally conscious hotels in the next few years.

Homestays

All over Kerala (and a few other places), people are converting rooms of their homes into guest rooms for tourists to rent, at incredibly reasonable prices. Guests share the public spaces with the family, which lives in the home, and often dine with them. Many of these homestays are gorgeous heritage homes and their owners extremely hospitable. It's a good way to interact with an Indian family and get a taste of local culture and cuisine (www.homestaykerala.com, for instance, has an extensive list of such properties). But don't expect room service and the kinds of amenities you get at a full-service hotel. If you are looking for a dash of luxury with your homestay experience, look into the tours through Ladakh offered by Shakti.

Heritage Hotels

Staying in a medieval palace or fort is a unique and wonderful option among India's accommodations (particularly in Rajasthan), especially when your host is the aristocrat whose forebears built the palace or fort in which you're overnighting; the best are discussed in detail in relevant sections throughout this guide. Many were built centuries ago, so it's not surprising that heritage hotels are seldom the most luxurious option, with the possibilities of many stairs, dodgy plumbing, low ceilings, strange room layouts, and other eccentricities. Acting principally as marketing agencies for privately owned palaces, forts, and havelis (Indian mansions), as well as a number of small resorts around the country (primarily North India), it's worth checking out www.heritagehotels.com as well as the portfolio of properties that are bookable through WelcomHeritage (www.welcomheritagehotels.com).

Most heritage properties are individually owned, but a group that enjoys an excellent reputation for selecting and renovating these is Neemrana; check out www.neemranahotels.com to view their select collection of really lovely boutique heritage hotels, often located in off-the-beaten-track destinations; rates generally represent excellent value for these atmospheric gems, and some of their most recent renovations (such as the awesome Le Colonial in Fort Kochi) are absolute masterpieces. As mentioned earlier, CGH are similarly investing in heritage properties, such as the gorgeous Maison Perumal in Pondicherry and Visalam in Tamil Nadu's Chettiar district.

Tip: Be aware that any hovel will attach "palace" to its name in the hopes of attracting more customers. This is often amusing if you're walking past, but can be disastrous if you're checking in.

City Hotels

The biggest problem in big cities and popular tourist areas is that the good hotels are often priced way out of reach, while moderate options are thin on the ground. Midrange hotels are substandard by Western standards, though considerably cheaper. Wherever possible, we've provided budget options that are scrupulously clean and moderately comfortable. A chain of budget hotels we recommend is Ginger (tel. 800/22-0022 or 022/66014-634; www.gingerhotels.com). Launched by Indian Hotels (owners of the Taj group) and catering specially to the middling business market, these 101-room "Smart Basics" hotels offer accommodations priced at under Rs 1,500 for a double. They won't have any of the opulence of the Taj hotels; in fact, rooms are small and rather plain in design, albeit comfortable and with all the amenities, including an ATM in the hotel. At press time, Ginger had just opened its 20th hotel, with several more imminent openings planned. Another budget chain worth looking into is Lemon Tree. This relative newcomer offers comfortable hotel accommodations and facilities at a price that its competitors are finding impossible to beat. It's by no means luxurious, with that slightly stark pared-down atmosphere typical of any budget hotel, but everything is gleaming new and service is pretty slick.

Most of the top-of-the-range city hotels are operated by major international chains specifically those discussed earlier in this section.

The Rating System -- India's hotel rating system refers to size and facilities on offer, not the potential quality of your stay. Often the best hotels have no rating because they are heritage properties and -- despite their overwhelming loveliness -- don't conform to the norms laid down by India's tourism department.

Warning: As a general rule of thumb, government-run properties are best avoided throughout the country.

Bargaining -- In India, even hotel rates are up for a bit of hard-core bargaining. If you're thin-skinned, bargain online (many hotels offer Internet-only discounts); alternatively, show up and stay tough -- when you hear the rate quoted, brazenly pretend to walk out; there's no shame in India in turning back and accepting the rate. You'll also be surprised to find that luxury hotels in cities can often be had at midrange prices, simply because room occupancy is low. Always ask about daily specials, and call and check prices: In this guide we generally provide the published (official) "rack" rate for accommodations, but most business and large luxury hotels have now gone over to the "rate of the day" or "best available rate" system which means that you should always investigate actual prices of places that have taken your fancy -- even if they appear beyond your reach, the actual rate may be substantially lower.

In remote areas, small towns, and villages, and many places in Goa and the Himalayan foothills, you can find good (basic but clean) budget accommodations at unbelievable prices. The same cannot generally be said of the major cities, where a cheap, dingy hotel may expose you to bedbugs and despair; stick to the budget recommendations in this guide.

Note: Prices in a number of the hotel listings are stated in U.S. dollars or, increasingly, in euros -- this is, in fact, the way hotels targeting foreign markets quote their rates.

Tip: All over India, floors are marked and understood differently from many in the U.S. First floor is the floor above the ground level, second floor is the floor above that, and so on. The ground floor or lobby level is just that.

Of Hotels & Taxes

Almost every hotel in India will quote a rate to which an additional luxury tax is added; this varies from state to state. This tax applies to all luxury hotels, or the moment the room price goes above a certain level (which depends on the state, and sometimes the city). Restaurant and hotel bills get a different tax, and alcohol and other luxuries get a different set of taxes all together. Some states such as Tamil Nadu add an astronomical 73.5% tax to imported liquor; as a rule, locally produced alcohol is taxed less than foreign imports. Always check whether the tax has been included in the rate you've been quoted and, if it hasn't, exactly how much it is.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Homosexuality remains frowned upon in India despite the fact that in July 2009 a Supreme Court ruling finally overturned a discriminatory piece of legislation that had, since colonial times, prohibited so-called "unnatural" sexual relations, criminalizing consensual sex between men. In the aftermath of this acknowledgment of constitutional freedom, the media celebrated widely with endless discussions, debates and relatively newsworthy stories about everything and anything gay, proud, and out. On the other hand, there are religious and political leaders hell-bent on reversing the legislative decision and many who actively promote antigay thinking, qualifying their hatred with the bizarre sentiment that homosexuality is un-Indian. A range of high-profile cases have brought the issue of gay and lesbian rights into the social and political sphere, and there is increased awareness in this regard across all social spheres, not least as a result of gay storylines and subplots creeping into mainstream Bollywood movies, and the rags plump with gossip about which star is in or out of the closet this week. The times certainly are a-changing, but the change is slower for some than for others, so you're likely to encounter a wide range of reactions to homosexuality (even when it's simply a topic in conversation) -- from those who clearly covet their gay friends as social accessories to those with overt hostility to those displaying utter indifference.

Finally, don't confuse social norms with sexual behavior. Indian men, for example, are a great deal more affectionate with one another than they are with women in public, and you'll frequently see men walking hand-in-hand, arm-in-arm, and embracing, though this is said to be an act of "brotherliness" without any sexual connotation. Nevertheless, discretion is probably best observed outside your hotel room (note that no one questions same-sex travelers sharing a room).

For more information and gay- and lesbian-friendly contacts nationwide, check out Indian Dost (www.indiandost.com); for a more personal perspective, filled with substance and insights read some of the posts on the Queer India blog (http://queerindia.blogspot.com). Gay support groups include the Gay Info Centre (P.O. Box 1662 Secunderabad HPO 500 003, Andhra Pradesh), Humsafar Trust (www.humsafar.org), and to a lesser extent, Gay Bombay (www.gaybombay.org), which mainly offers information on gay venues in Mumbai.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators; at press time, however, there were just five Indian tour operators listed.

The Canadian website GayTraveler (www.gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before. However, it must be noted that India -- despite the fact that it has such a high population of people with disabilities -- is not well geared for travelers with disabilities. Destinations are far from wheelchair friendly, and it is hard enough for an able-bodied person to negotiate the crowded, filth-strewn, and potholed streets, where cars, animals, and rickshaws drive at will. Access to historical monuments is also difficult (though you will have the small reward of free access). Certainly you would need to be accompanied by a traveler familiar with the destination, and you must carefully sift through the accommodations options, only a handful of which have facilities specifically geared to travelers with disabilities.

Organizations that offer a range of resources and assistance to disabled travelers include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [2255-6677]; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org).

Getting There

By Plane

India's list of international airports is constantly expanding: Mumbai (BOM), Delhi (DEL), Hyderabad (HYD), Goa (GOI), Kolkata (Calcutta, CCU), Chennai (MAA), Trivandrum (TRV), Ahmedabad (AMD), Bengaluru (aka Bangalore, BLR), Amritsar (ATQ), and Kochi (aka Cochin, COK) all receive traffic from abroad, and a number of hitherto tiny airports -- particularly in Rajasthan -- have been expanded to accommodate international arrivals. Modernization at all these facilities, particularly in Delhi and Mumbai, is a priority, but there are many problems -- not least of which is that the rate of expansion simply cannot keep up with the exponential increase in traffic. Consequently, the first-time traveler to India may easily be unnerved by the sheer apparent chaos and disorganization of it all. Mumbai receives the greatest amount of international traffic and is the best point of arrival for onward travel to Goa and South India. Be warned, however, that in spite of a recent overhaul, Mumbai airport facilities are poor, and there are plans to shift terminals while new ones are under construction. Most flights arrive in India late at night, in order to leave their Western destinations during daylight hours, so booking an "immediate" onward domestic flight invariably requires some wait at the airport. Delhi's international airport -- the principal starting point for journeys throughout North India, including the Himalayan regions and Rajasthan as well as east India -- is substantially better. Only fly in to Kolkata (Calcutta) if you plan to explore east India exclusively. If you want to avoid spending too much time at the airport, note that Kingfisher, Jet Airways, British Airways, Virgin, and Air India all have flights with daytime arrival into India.

Most major airline carriers have flights to India; the country's top airlines are Kingfisher, Jet Airways, and state-owned Air India. All three have direct, nonstop flights from London, but you can fly in from just about anywhere in the world. The majority of flights originating in Europe or the U.S. will touch down either in Mumbai or in Delhi; it is possible to fly direct to many other cities around the country, although that may entail a routing through the Middle East. Both Mumbai's Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (www.csia.in) and Delhi's Indira Gandhi International Airport (www.delhiairport.com) are busy and increasingly so, with dramatic changes to infrastructure in recent years. Delhi's airport has been gearing up for when the city hosts the Commonwealth Games in 2010, while Mumbai's status as the subcontinent's economic capital means that inbound business is always booming. Mumbai, in particular, is geared up for transit passengers, with some of the biggest and glitziest hotels in the city in the immediate vicinity of both the domestic and the international terminals. Delhi's airport terminals have expanded and modernized considerably recently, and most people touching down here spend at least a day or two exploring the historic sights before heading off to see the Taj Mahal in Agra. From Mumbai or Delhi, you can fly to just about any corner of the country.

It's a good idea to shop around for fares on the Internet, through online travel agencies like Travelocity.com, Expedia.com, Mobissimo.com, and Orbitz.com, or through airline websites. Or make use of a consolidator, which hunts for the cheapest available seats on your travel dates.

From North America -- Count on spending between 13 and 22 hours traveling and most flights require you to touch down at least once in Europe, the Gulf, or an Asian destination. However, your best (from a traveling and a comfort and an environmental point of view) is with Air India, which has 13 1/2- to 15-hour nonstop flights from New York's JFK or Newark airports to both Mumbai and Delhi. Jet Airways has flights from Newark to Mumbai via Brussels.

From the U.K. -- Many reasonably priced direct flights are available, or you can take a connecting flight in continental Europe or the Middle East; the latter option hardly seems worth considering since the excellent Indian-owned Kingfisher Airlines began it's daily services to Mumbai (with connections to Delhi), and Air India offers such affordable fares on this sector and on its nonstop flights between London and Delhi. Of course, you can also fly in with a host of other (pricier) airlines. Jet Airways has two daily nonstop flights between London and Mumbai and one a day to Delhi. Jet and Air India are both a lot more affordable than the other two airlines with nonstop flights: British Airways has two daily direct flights to both Delhi and Mumbai, daily flights to Bangalore, and occasional direct flights to Kolkata and Chennai; Virgin Atlantic operates nonstop flights to Mumbai and Delhi; and there are many more airlines that get you there with a change of planes in their respective hubs.

From Australia & New Zealand -- You can fly directly to India from Australia. From New Zealand you will more than likely be offered a flight package that incorporates more than one airline. The majority of touchdowns and changeovers are in Malaysia, Thailand, Hong Kong, and Singapore.

From South Africa -- South African Airways flies nonstop to Mumbai several times a week from Johannesburg. Or you can fly via Dubai to Delhi/Mumbai/Cochin on Emirates.

Note: Before you leave home, know what you can carry on and what you can't. For the latest updates on items you are prohibited to bring in carry-on luggage, go to www.tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel.

Getting Around

You can research prices and deals on travel and hotels at reliable online travel companies based in India. Try www.makemytrip.com, www.yatra.com, www.cleartrip.com, www.tcindia.com, or www.travelmartindia.com. Note that Indian travel sites are not able to accept foreign credit cards, due to intensive antifraud card verification systems.

By Plane

Because train travel is time-consuming, and roads generally appalling, the best way to cover huge distances is by air. A handful of very active low-cost airlines means that you have a wide choice at bargain prices; no need to scour all the websites, though, if you're looking for the lowest price -- simply log on to www.travelocity.co.in or www.yatra.com, two excellent sites. Jet Airways (www.jetairways.com), with its fleet of new planes, First-World service, and good connections, is still a very good airline, but Kingfisher Airlines (tel. 1800/180-0101; www.flykingfisher.com) is definitely our favorite: Aircrafts are brand-new, cabin crew are efficient and superfriendly, and service is exemplary -- in the last 2 years Kingfisher has expanded its network to include even niche market destinations such at Agatti in the Lakshadweep islands. They frequently offer a better deal than their competitors, and online booking is painless. National carrier Air India (which has completely merged with and absorbed Indian) may be having financial troubles, but services have improved dramatically -- in fact, when we've most recently flown with them, they compared favorably against Jet. Another contender for the domestic crown is Paramount Airways (tel. 800/180-1234; www.paramountairways.com); predominantly based in South India but steadily expanding, it offers full business-class cabins and service at less than economy-class fares. Basically, opt for Kingfisher or Paramount if the price is comparable, but don't hesitate to fly Jet or Air India if the price is right.

Best of the low-budget airlines (and clean, reliable, relatively cheap) is SpiceJet (tel. 800/180-3333; www.spicejet.com). Also worth comparing prices with are Go Air (tel. 800/222-111 or 09223/222-111; www.goair.in) and IndiGo (tel. 099-1038-3838 or 800/180-3838; www.goindigo.in). If price is important, you can usually save money with one of these airlines -- but don't expect top-notch service (often no meals or beverages served), and worst of all, you may have lengthy delays. Note that erstwhile Airline Deccan has been completely absorbed by Kingfisher, which has launched a semibudget brand, Kingfisher Red, although it's not yet fully understood how this service differs from its full-fare flights. Similarly, Jet Lite is Jet's lower-priced wing, accessed via a separate website, www.jetlite.com.

India's domestic and international check-in and preboarding procedure may be one of the most rigorous in the world. Technically, check-in will start 180 minutes prior to international departure, and you need to produce a ticket before being allowed access to the airport building (airlines generally have ticketing windows for collection of e-tickets purchased online, or if you need to buy a ticket at the airport; alternatively, speak to a security officer, who will escort you to the appropriate ticket counter). Arriving less than 60 minutes prior to domestic departure is definitely not recommended. Your checked baggage must be scanned and sealed before you report to the check-in counter. The list of dangerous items not permitted in your carry-on bags is fairly extensive, but these days no more so than at airports around the world (and because the security is so tight, they tend to be less paranoid about what you can or cannot carry). In any case, India's screening procedures genuinely enhance your sense of security -- there are no half-hearted measures, and personnel are generally very pleasant in their attitude, even as you're being frisked by a uniformed army officer. Check-in closes 30 minutes prior to departure. After check-in, you should immediately head for the first security check, which will involve a body pat-down and a scan of your carry-on luggage. Boarding gates close 15 minutes prior to scheduled departure (although delays are fairly frequent), and there may be second body and carry-on checks before you are permitted to board the plane. In some instances, you will be asked to identify your checked luggage on the tarmac. While frequent travelers may be irritated by these ungainly, time-consuming methods, others find the process provides peace of mind.

Tip: Always have your concierge (or yourself to be sure) reconfirm your flight at least 72 hours before departure to save yourself the frustration of arriving at the airport only to find that your name has been deleted from the computer.

By Car

India's roads are statistically the most dangerous in the world -- according to The Times of India, August 2009, India reported the highest road fatalities in the world with 13 people dying every hour. Self-driven rental cars are simply not available (with the exception of unauthorized operators in Goa) and if they were, renting your own car and attempting to traverse the chaos that passes for traffic is simply suicidal. That said, having your own vehicle -- and a driver who knows the roads, can read road signs when they're present, and can communicate with locals -- is in many ways the best way to get around. You can set your own pace, without having to worry about making public-transport connections (a major headache taken care of), and you can see the sights and experience many of the attractions without feeling anxious (your driver will be a huge help in providing advice on customs and pricing -- not to mention helping with mundane everyday needs such as topping up your local airtime), as well as experience off-the-beaten-track towns and rural scenes that give you the only sense of real India. And by American and European standards, the luxury of being chauffeured around the country -- not necessarily in a high-end luxury vehicle, keep in mind -- is ridiculously cheap. Certainly this is the way to go to concentrate on certain parts of India, such as Rajasthan, but it's not advisable as a way to cover long-distance journeys -- aim to spend no more than 3 to 4 hours a day in the car (there will be, of course, exceptions). Note: Whatever you do, make sure your plan does not include traveling at night.

If you plan to tour North India by car, setting off from Delhi, contact Khaver Ali Khan (khaver@kamalan-travels.com) who will put you in touch with one of his travel experts at Kamalan Travels, and you can create a custom tour within any budget (tel. 011-257-30256, -33652, or 97-1100-8521; www.kamalan-travels.com).

What kind of car? -- Standard cars are sometimes antique-looking and very romantic Ambassadors, tough cars despite their appearance, but sometimes unpredictable; don't rely on them for long out-of-town journeys -- better perhaps to opt for a modern vehicle like the compact Indica. A vehicle with off-road capabilities is essential in some of the more remote and hilly regions, including eastern Himachal Pradesh, Ladakh, Sikkim, and parts of Uttarakhand; it is also recommended for some of the awful road conditions in Madhya Pradesh and Karnataka, for example, where there may be more potholes than patches of tarmac. Air-conditioned vehicles cost more but are always recommended because you may want to keep windows closed in order to shut out the endless traffic noise and pollution.

How much will it cost? -- Charges for this sort of car hire vary considerably. If you use a hotel rental service, you usually have to fork out exorbitant fees -- although the vehicle and quality of service will generally be top-notch. At the other end of the scale, you can walk up to a driver in the street, negotiate an excellent deal, and spend the rest of your vacation watching the tires being changed. It's often a good idea to start by contacting the Tourist Development Corporation in whatever state you wish to hire a car. Their rates are usually reasonable and fixed; you'll be spared the battle of the haggle; and you won't have to live with the misery of being overcharged. A good way to estimate how much a vehicle should cost for a multiday run is to calculate three things: a) the approximate distance you will travel multiplied by the per-kilometer rate (usually between Rs 10 and Rs 20 depending on the car); b) an overnight charge of Rs 150 to Rs 350 per night, plus state taxes, tolls, and across-state permits and fees; and c) the mileage for the car to return to its place of origin, even if it returns empty.

Travel agencies can assist you with car rental, many with their own fleet of vehicles and drivers; if the price doesn't seem right, shop around. Finally, when it comes to tipping your driver, a fair amount is Rs 200 to Rs 300 for each day he's been with you. If you feel you got exemplary service and want to give him more, however, by all means give him what you feel he deserves. If, on the other hand, you've had to tolerate a surly, uncooperative, and inefficient chauffeur, make sure you let the agency know, and reflect it in the tip as you see fit. Tip: Your car driver may sometimes drive you around for an hour in a new city rather than do the sensible thing and ask for directions. Remember, in most cities the best people to ask for directions are usually auto-rickshaw or taxi drivers. If you are on foot, however, more often than not if you ask a rickshaw or cab driver for directions, he'll probably tell you your destination is "too far" and that you need to hire his services.

Warning: If you are involved in an accident, it's best to get out of your vehicle and away from the scene without delay, inform your rental agency or hotel immediately, and have them inform local authorities. An accident involving the injury or death of a cow or person may result in a mob assault on all occupants of the offending vehicle as well as its incineration.

Taxis & Auto-rickshaws -- These modes of transport are the ways to go within your chosen city or town. Auto-rickshaws are best for short journeys only, being slow, bumpy, and open-air -- in other words, open to pollution. Always, always negotiate the rate upfront, having established the average going rate (unless the driver is using a "meter reading chart," in which case check it carefully, and make sure he is not using the night 11pm-5am chart, when charges are higher). We have tried to indicate these rates throughout, but given the potential escalation in fuel costs, it's best to ask about the going rate (your hotel or host should know) and figure out a fixed price for a given journey. To get from the station or airport to your hotel, use the prepaid taxi booths; remember to hand over your receipt only after reaching your destination. Be aware that in some cities it's a toss-up between forcing the driver to use his meter, only to be taken for a citywide spin, and agreeing to a slightly higher than normal price and being taken from A to B.

Remember: Carry your passport at all times -- many of the borders between states have checkpoints where passports may be checked. Also always have with you at least one photocopy of your passport and visa and four to five passport-size photographs; you will need them for permits and other unforeseen bureaucratic paperwork, like getting a prepaid SIM card for a cellphone.

By Train

India's rail network is the second largest in the world, and you can pretty much get anywhere in the country by train. That said, train journeys between major destinations can consume massive amounts of time (often more than car travel); and the network, tiers (one of the A/C, or air-conditioned classes may, for instance, be better than non-A/C first class), and connections can be confusing. It's best to determine well in advance whether or not your destination is accessible from your point of origin and which tier is the most comfortable, and then factor in delays; some slow trains stop at every two-hut village along the way, and this can extend traveling time by hours. Generally, you should only consider long-distance train travel if you are assured of exotic scenery (like the Konkan Railway, which connects Mumbai with Goa, Karnataka, and Kerala, running along the Konkan coast); or if the journey is overnight (like Delhi to Varanasi) and you have reserved a first-class air-conditioned sleeper or second-class air-conditioned sleeper berth, preferably the two-tier variety. (Never book regular second class, which can be torturous, claustrophobic, and distressing if you are at all intimidated by crowds.) You will be particularly comfortable aboard the overnight Rajdhani -- the superfast train connects Delhi to Mumbai for Rs 2,145 or to Kolkata (Howrah) for Rs 2,180 in the two-tier A/C (air-conditioned) class; it also connects Delhi with Chennai, Bangalore, Bhubaneswar, Thiruvananthapuram, Abu Road, Ahmedabad, and Ajmer. The best daytime travel train is the Shatabdi; these intercity trains have several routes between important tourist destinations (Delhi to Amritsar: Rs 665; Mumbai to Madgaon [Goa]: Rs 700; Delhi to Jaipur: Rs 485). Book a seat in the air-conditioned Chair Car class; small meals, tea, coffee, and bottled water are included in the ticket price, seats are comfortable and clean, and toilets are usually usable, but not great.

For extensive railway information, you can log on to www.indianrail.gov.in, which shows routes, availability, and prices for all Indian trains, but you cannot book online from overseas. For tips on how to maneuver this rather unwieldy website to get the information you need, see the box below. Better still, visit www.seat61.com, the online authority for train travel across the globe with a detailed, dedicated page devoted to train travel in India. Amongst many other issues, it explains in great detail how to purchase a train ticket from outside India using the government-sponsored ticketing website www.irctc.co.in. Do note that you can also purchase tickets for train journeys in India using the relatively painless www.cleartrip.com website which charges a Rs 100 booking fee per ticket, but allows you to buy your ticket using a credit card.

Purchasing tickets usually requires some advance planning, and it's a good idea to make all-important ticket reservations (particularly for overnight travel) before you leave for India, especially if you're coming during peak holiday season. You can make ticket reservations through your hotel or an agent (usually for a relatively small fee), or you can brave the possibility of long lines and silly form-filling at the train station; that said, check out "Booking Your Train Ticket at the Station," below, to see if the station you're heading to has a counter set up especially for foreigners. Not only is this an easy way to book your seat, it may be the only way to secure tickets when trains are completely full and agents can do nothing to assist.

Indian Railways Indrail Pass is a "discount" ticket for unlimited travel over a specific number of days (for example, air-conditioned chair car/first and second class: 7 days $135), but these still require reservations and are only likely to benefit travelers who expect to make two or more long-distance journeys in a short time.

We have included telephone numbers for railway stations, but don't expect too much information from these, if indeed you are even able to get through.

Tip: To avoid unnecessary stress while traveling by train (particularly on overnight journeys), use a chain and padlock to secure your luggage and fasten it to some part of your berth or cabin. Be sensible, and don't leave valuables lying around while you sleep.

Booking Your Train Ticket at the Station: The Nitty-Gritty -- Even though you will be told that there are no special lines or windows for foreigners who want to book train tickets, we assure you that this is not the case. More important, most trains have a quota of seats specifically for foreigners. This means that even if a train is completely booked up, as a foreigner you may be able to get a seat, unless other foreigners booking through the same service have already filled the seat quota. This is valuable information to keep in mind, because an agent cannot book a seat for you on this quota, nor can this be booked from the regular booking window; you must go personally to a Foreign Tourist Rail Reservation Counter (sometimes called Foreign Tourist Bureaus) with your passport, and pay either in foreign currency (cash or credit card) or show a currency encashment certificate or ATM receipt. The ticket costs exactly the same as the regular ticket (except for credit card surcharges). Train stations at the following Indian cities have a Foreign Tourist Rail Reservation Counter: Agra-Cantonment, Ahmedabad, Aurangabad, Bangalore, Chennai, New Delhi, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Kolkata, Mumbai, Secunderabad, Vadodara, Varanasi, and Vasco-Da-Gama (Goa). There's also a counter at the Delhi Tourism & Transport Development Corporation office at Indira Gandhi International Airport in the Arrivals lounge. In Mumbai, this office is tucked away next to the Government Tourist Office, on the first floor of the Western Railway Building, opposite Churchgate Station.

Booking Online: Understanding the Indian Railway Website -- Using the Indian Railway website can be an exercise in frustration; here are some tips on how to master it with ease. After you log on to indianrail.gov.in, click on "Train/Fare Accommodation" on the bottom menu (third choice from the left). Next fill in where you want to depart from (source station name) and your destination, but (and here's the key), only type the first three letters of the name of the place (mum for Mumbai, ban for Bengaluru -- because it's name only recently changed from Bangaloree -- and del for Delhi, and so on). Then fill in the class of service you're interested in (safest to pick "All"). Enter your date of travel (or a fictitious date) and click "get it." This will take you to another window where you narrow your choice of source and destination from a pull-down menu (all places beginning with mum and ban and del). For Bengaluru you may get several choices -- and this is another tricky part -- you have to pick one (usually the first "Bangalore" choice on the list). You will get a list of all the trains, with times, that run between the two cities. Now pick the train you want by clicking on the white circle to the left of the train's name to highlight it green, then choose your class of service (on the right). At this stage you can change the date if you like, and then get availability or fares. The availability is sometimes not online between 10pm to 6am Indian time, so if you don't get what you want, try again later. The availability chart basically tells you how many seats are still available in the class of service you've chosen.

The Romance of Rail: India's Special Train Journeys -- India's most famous luxury train, Palace on Wheels, currently operates in Rajasthan, and has 14 opulently furnished en-suite saloons, a bar, and two restaurants (tel. 888/INDIA-99 [46342-99] in the U.S. and Canada, 011/2332-5939 or 011/2335-3155 in India; www.palaceonwheels.net or www.thepalaceonwheels.com). Over 7 days, the train travels from Delhi to Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Sawai Madhopur (Ranthambhore), Chittaurgarh, Udaipur, Bharatpur, and Agra; and finishes its trip back in Delhi. The "Week in Wonderland" trip costs $5,250 to $7,700 double, including all travel, accommodations, sightseeing, and meals, but not taxes. And, if you like the sound of that, you might want to take a look at the similar service (and routing) offered by the very chic Royal Rajasthan on Wheels (tel. 877/INDIA-99 [46342-99] in the U.S. and Canada; www.royalpalaceonwheels.com or www.heritageonwheels.com; $8,310-$12,670 double for 7 nights). Other luxury trains in India include: Maharasthra's Deccan Odyssey; Golden Chariot which makes traveling through Karnataka less tedious; Fairy Queen, the oldest operating steam locomotive in the world, dating from 1855, which takes an overnight trip from Delhi to Alwar, Rajasthan (with a visit to the Sariska wildlife sanctuary) and back.

For a truly exclusive train journey board the private The Viceroy of India -- aka The Darjeeling Mail Tour -- which runs just one or two 15-day trips a year from Mumbai to Calcutta via Jaipur, Delhi, Varanasi, and Darjeeling, and is priced at $22,790 (Viceroy class) or $34,390 (Maharaja suite) double (www.gwtravel.co.uk).

Getting to the hill stations of Shimla (Himachal Pradesh), Darjeeling (West Bengal), Matheran (Maharashtra), or Ooty (Tamil Nadu) can be a scenic novelty if you don't mind spending long hours traveling in the atmospheric "toy trains" that chug their ways along narrow-gauge tracks to high altitudes by way of an endless series of hairpin loops -- fabulous views are guaranteed. And then, of course, there is the Konkan Railway, which runs along the Malabar coast and has truly wonderful scenery almost every click-clack of the way.

By Bus

Unless you are on a serious budget and traveling in India for months, we recommend you avoid all forms of bus travel. Often crammed full of commuters, state-operated buses are driven at bloodcurdling speeds along dangerous and punishing roads. Numerous so-called deluxe or luxury buses, operated by private companies, often ply similarly dangerous routes overnight. You may be tempted to save time and money with this option, but be aware that safety is rarely a priority, and sleeping is almost impossible thanks to generally uncomfortable seating and/or noise. Regular stops at roadside truck stops along the way will have you arriving at your destination bleary-eyed and exhausted, wondering why you've opted for a vacation in hell; on one of our most recent trips we were horrified to witness a "luxury" bus windshield shatter midjourney, and the driver simply continued on (through the night) till he reached his destination. On some routes (such as Delhi-Jaipur or Kochi-Bengaluru), the exception is the comfortable "Volvo" bus with good suspension and skilled drivers. Another exception is the Manali-to-Leh route, where the Trans-Himalayan scenery is jaw-droppingly awesome, and an overnight stop in tents is part of the deal. If you do decide to take a bus, a good place to search for deluxe (or "luxury") private services and book them online is www.ticketvala.com.

Note: Buses in India do not have onboard toilets (thankfully, given the state of so many of these on trains), so stops are usually at grimy roadside dhabas (local diners) or just along the side of the road.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

Indians love to celebrate, and there is no end to the list of festivals that are held in honor of the gods, gurus, and historical figures that make this such a spiritually saturated and colorful destination. Festivals usually coincide with the lunar calendar, with dates published only a year in advance, so check with the local tourism office about exact dates (some may move into another month). India has relatively few national holidays when attractions, government offices, and banks are closed: Republic Day, January 26; Independence Day, August 15; Gandhi's Birthday, October 2; and Christmas.

January/February

Basant Festival, countrywide. The onset of spring (basant) is marked by various celebrations. Citrus-colored clothes are worn, and there is a profusion of dancing and singing coupled with great dinner spreads and feasts to mark the season of agricultural plenty.

Carnival, Goa. It may not be on quite the same level as celebrations in Rio, but the riot of colorful costumes and processions, as well as the exuberant dancing and music, make this an especially fun time to visit the tiny state and its beautiful beaches.

Desert Festival, Rajasthan. With camel races, camel polo, a Mr. Desert competition, and even prizes for the best-looking camel, this festival is a highlight in the Jaisalmer social calendar.

Muharram. Best experienced in the city of Lucknow, the 10-day Shiite festival commemorates the martyrdom of the grandson of the Prophet Mohammed; during a parade of religious fervor, penitents scourge themselves with whips -- often with nails or blades attached.

March

Ellora Festival of Classical Dance and Music, Maharashtran interior. This festival draws some of the country's top artists to the ancient caves at this World Heritage Site.

Holi, northern India. Celebrated predominantly in the north, this joyous Hindu festival is held during the full moon -- expect to be bombarded with colored water and powder.

International Yoga Festival, Rishikesh. Spiritually inclined visitors head here to take classes with Yogacharyas from all over the world teaching a variety of yogic disciplines.

Khajuraho Dance Festival, Madhya Pradesh. Get a glimpse of all of India's great classical dance forms.

June/July

Rath Yatra, Puri. In Orissa's seaside temple town of Puri, this is one of the largest annual gatherings of humanity; thousands of devotees come together to help pull the Lord of the Universe and his two siblings through the streets on massive cars.

Hemis Tsechu, Ladakh. Although it's become overly-commercial in recent years, this remains the region's most spectacular monastic celebration, scheduled for June 21 and 22, 2010, when the birthday of the founder of Tibetan Buddhism is celebrated with lamaistic masked dances (chaams), chanting, and music at Hemis Monastery. If you'd prefer to catch a Buddhist festival without the flea market atmosphere and touristy vibe, consider disappearing off the beaten track and joining the locals at the smaller, but far more authentic festivals at monasteries such as Lamayuru, where the Yuru Kabgyat attracts mostly villagers who arrive on foot, having traveled for miles to join in the spiritual celebrations (June 10-11, 2010; and June 28-29, 2011).

Ladakh Confluence, Choglamsar, Ladakh. Ladakh's new entertainment festival launched in 2009, and promises to be returning annually between June and August (check www.theconfluence.in for this year's dates). It's all about music, culture, and environment, and seems set to join the ranks of India's burgeoning party circuit; excellent world music acts, workshops, and slightly offbeat competitions (including a momo-eating event) will form part of this laid-back version of Glastonbury in the Himalayas.

August

Nehru Cup Snake Boat Races, Alleppey. Kerala's backwaters come alive with these renowned snake boat races. Second Saturday of August.

Independence Day, countrywide. Indians unite to celebrate independence. August 15.

September/October

Ganesh Chhaturthi, countrywide. This 10-day celebration of Ganesha, the elephant-headed god, is popular across India, but Mumbai is arguably the best place to experience this vibrant event, celebrated with huge processions, fireworks, and the construction of special shrines. At the end of the festival, clay images of the god are immersed in the sea.

Kullu Dussehra. Head for the Kullu Valley in Himachal Pradesh, where you can join the crowds when idols of Hindu deities from around the region are brought together in a colorful Festival of the Gods. Similarly ecstatic revelry occurs in Mysore (Karnataka).

October/November

Diwali (Festival of Lights; also Deepavali), countrywide. This huge celebration among Hindu Indians is best experienced on the lawns of Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur, at a wonderful party hosted by the Maharajah (which hotel guests are invited to attend). Note, however, that just as Christmas has been exploited commercially in the West, Diwali has become a time of excessive noise, increased alcohol consumption, and all-night fireworks.

Pushkar Mela, Rajasthan. The annual cattle fair in the tiny temple-and-hippie town of Pushkar, is the biggest of its kind in Asia. Traders, pilgrims, and tourists from all over the world transform this budget tourist mecca into a huge tented city, with camel races, cattle auctions, huge bonfires, traditional dances, and the like.

December/January

Christmas, New Year, countrywide. Prepare for increased hotel prices as wealthy Indians celebrate both Christmas and New Year, often by taking the entire family on an extravagant vacation. New Year, in particular, may be marked by compulsory hidden extras such as special entertainment and celebratory meals. Christmas is celebrated with as much fervor, if not more, as it is in the West. City hotels take great advantage of the situation, while in certain areas, such as Goa, midnight Mass and other traditions are observed.

Sunburn, Goa. Party till you drop, then pick yourself up and carry on dancing. India's party capital is full to bursting over the festival period, but fans of the contemporary electronic music scene won't want to miss this 3 day DJ-mediated extravaganza, reportedly Asia's biggest music festival (www.sunburn-festival.com), Find yourself a small, quiet guesthouse to rest up at between bouts on the dance floor and you'll come away with a New Year's celebration well worth remembering. That's if you can remember anything at all . . .

Tips for Women Travelers

Foreign women will almost certainly experience India as sexist, but if you are confident, relaxed, and assertive, you are unlikely to experience any serious hassles. However, traveling solo is only for the very brave and thick-skinned, unless of course you're traveling in comfort (using the accommodations selected in this guide) and have hired a car and driver for the duration (you are at your most vulnerable when using public transport). At best, you will experience being stared at intensely for an unbearable length of time; at worst you may be groped -- some men are convinced that all Western women are loose and slutty. To a great extent, Western cinema and fashion trends have helped fuel the legend that women from abroad welcome this attention, and you'd do well to take precautions, like wearing appropriate (modest) attire. On trains, buses, and in other public places, you are best off ignoring advances or questions from suspicious-looking men. Another strategy that often helps single women travelers ward off unwanted male attention is to wear a ring and invent a husband; if you're approached, say that you are meeting your "husband" at the next station/destination. You should have little difficulty determining when a line of questioning is likely to lead to problems. In particular, steer clear of men who have been drinking alcohol. "Eve-teasing" (the word denoting unwanted attention and public harassment by men) is an offense in certain parts of India, and you are within your rights to report inappropriate advances or remarks to the police -- the easiest response, however, is to loudly tell the offender off, and even strike him -- you will almost certainly be supported by those around you. You may want to ask whether or not your hotel offers a special room for solo women travelers; these are now offered in a few upmarket hotels in the larger cities, and include special privacy/security features.

Note that women are excluded from entering certain religious sites and attractions (which we have pointed out wherever relevant), but this is unlikely to impact too strongly on your plans. Menstruating women are, technically, not entitled to enter Jain temples or mosques.

A few Indian travel outfits specialize in women-only itineraries. Travel writer Sumitra Senapaty's Women on Wanderlust (www.wowsumitra.com) is aimed primarily at Indian women, and includes tours to non-Indian destinations; however there are a few excursions, including treks and river-rafting expeditions, that you may wish to consider. Adventure specialists 18 Days (www.18days.in) also offer several trips that are exclusively for women.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

General Resources for Green Travel

The following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; essentially a travel agency that focuses on sustainable vacation planning, it's run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.