The cozy but sophisticated lodgelike interior of Meridian incorporates logs from the 1880s cabin that once stood on this site. It's a fitting backdrop for the cuisine, which similarly updates and refines classic comfort foods. Our favorite: grilled lamb loin with splashes of puréed eggplant and tzatziki sauce painting the plate, served with a chickpea cake. Other options include pork loin with sweet-potato hash and chorizo and lobster carbonara. The tangy, meltingly tender tuna poke appetizer is the perfect starter, or try Meridian's take on oysters Rockefeller (lightly breaded and fried, served on creamed spinach with Hollandaise). Finish up with the signature dessert: warm mini doughnuts with thick, coffee-flavored sauce for dipping, or the sinfully rich (and huge) chocolate torte with walnut crust.