Outside the City in Ioannina

If you have only a day in Ioannina, try to spend at least 2 to 3 hours (including a meal) visiting Nissi, the islet in Lake Pamvotis. Small boats leave from the quay below the fortress every half-hour in summer, from 6:30am to 11pm. In the off season, service is every hour -- but note that the last boat leaves the island around 10pm. The fare is 1.50€. The lake has unfortunately become overgrown with algae and is so polluted that local restaurants do not serve the fish taken from it (or so we've been assured).

The boat ride takes barely 10 minutes and, day and night, provides a fine view of Ioannina. You get off near the lobby of three restaurants -- each displaying a tank filled with seafood. Resist all until you are truly ready to eat. The specialties of these restaurants include eel, frogs' legs, carp, crayfish, trout, and other imported fish.

The small village here is said to have been founded in the 16th century by refugees from the Mani region of the Peloponnese, but your destination is the five monasteries that predate it. Take the narrow passage between the two restaurants; signs are posted to your left and right. Follow the signs to the left (east), and you will come to the restored Monastery of Panteleimon. Little of the original remains.

The monastery houses a small museum devoted to the infamous Ali Pasha; its numerous pictures and personal items include his clothing and water pipe. It's open daily, and an attendant will come if it's closed. Admission is 1€. In 1820, Pasha took refuge here, where he was eventually killed in 1822 by Turks. You may even be shown holes in the floor where it is alleged he was shot from below.

Directly beside this monastery is the Monastery of the Prodromos (St. John the Baptist), but most people will want to move on to the western edge of the islet, following the signs to Moni Filanthropinon (also known as the Monastery of Ayios Nikolaos Spanos). It's sometimes referred to as the "Secret School"; Orthodox priests supposedly maintained a clandestine school here during the Turkish occupation. Founded in the 13th century, it was rebuilt in the 16th century with magnificent frescoes. Seldom does the public get to view such an ensemble of Byzantine frescoes so close up. Although the dim light can be a problem (bring a flashlight), you should be able to recognize such subjects as the life of Christ on the walls of the apse, God and the Apostles in the central dome, and the many saints. Most unexpected, however, are the portrayals of famous ancient Greek sages on the wall of the narthex as you enter -- Aristotle, Plato, Plutarch, Solon, and Thucydides. (There's no admission, but it's customary to leave a gratuity with the caretaker.)

About 100m (328 ft.) farther along the trail is Ayios Nikolaos Dilios (or Moni Stratgopoulou), the oldest monastery (dating from the 11th c.) on Nissi. Its 16th-century frescoes are also of some interest but are in poor condition. (A small tip to the caretaker is called for.) The fifth monastery, Ayios Eleouses, is closed to the public.

By now you have earned your meal on Nissi. Choose a restaurant.