Planning a trip to Ireland

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

For travelers with disabilities, Ireland is a mixed bag. Its modern buildings and cities are generally accessible, but many of its buildings are historic, and those often lack wheelchair access. Trains can be accessed by wheelchairs but only with assistance. If you plan to travel by train in Ireland, be sure to check out Iarnród Éireann's website (www.irishrail.ie), which includes services for travelers with disabilities. A mobility-impaired liaison officer (tel. 01/703-3299) can arrange assistance for travelers with disabilities if given 24-hour notice prior to the departure time.

If you're conducting research prior to your trip, one of the best Irish-based online resources is www.disability.ie.

For advice on travel to Northern Ireland, contact Disability Action, Portside Business Park, 189 Airport Rd. W., Belfast BT3 9ED (tel. 028/9029-7880; www.disabilityaction.org). The Northern Ireland Tourist Board also publishes a helpful annual Information Guide to Accessible Accommodation, available from any of its offices worldwide.

Finding accessible lodging can be tricky in Ireland. Many of the buildings here are hundreds of years old, and older hotels, small guesthouses, and landmark buildings still have steps outside and in. The National Rehabilitation Board of Ireland, 24-25 Clyde Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (tel. 01/608-0400), publishes several guides to accessible guesthouses, the best of which is Guide to Accessible Accommodation in Ireland).

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com), Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com), and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Tips for Student Travelers

If you're interested in studying here, contact your university to find out if it has a partnership program in Ireland. To get basic info on whether or not you need a student visa and how to get one, get in touch with the Irish Department of Foreign Affairs Visa Section, Hainault House, 69-71 St. Stephen's Green, Dublin (tel. 01/478-0822). U.S. firms offering educational travel programs to Ireland include Academic Travel Abroad (tel. 800/523-4293; www.academictravel.com) and North American Institute for Study Abroad (tel. 570/275-5099).

If you do spend a semester or two in Ireland, contact the Union of Students in Ireland Travel (tel. 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie). It's great for arranging travel from and around Ireland at the cheapest rates. Its notice boards are filled with flat shares, language classes, jobs, and cheap flights.

If you're looking for less structured knowledge, try spending a week in Glencolmcille, County Donegal, studying the Irish (Gaelic) language, dancing, archaeology, Celtic pottery, or tapestry weaving at Oideas Gael (tel. 074/973-0248; www.oideas-gael.com).

If you're traveling internationally, you'd be wise to arm yourself with an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which offers substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, and entrance fees. It also provides you with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is available from STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.sta.com or www.statravel.com, or www.statravel.co.uk in the U.K.), the biggest student travel agency in the world. If you're no longer a student but are still age 25 or under, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts (but not on museum admissions). Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887 in the U.S. or 1866/246-9762 in Canada; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Calendar of Events

Getting There

By Plane

The Republic of Ireland has three major international airports. They are, in order of size, Dublin (DUB) (www.dublinairport.com; 1/814-1111), Cork (ORK) (www.cork-airport.com; 021/431-3131), and Shannon (www.shannonairport.com; 061/712000). Northern Ireland’s main airport is Belfast International Airport (BFS) (www.belfastairport.com; 028/9448-4848).

The Republic of Ireland has several smaller regional airports. The airports at Donegal and Kerry offer service to Dublin; in addition, the airports at Donegal, Kerry, and Knock receive some (limited) European traffic. In Northern Ireland, the secondary airports are Belfast City Airport and Derry City Airport. Airline service to these smaller airports changes frequently, so be sure to consult your preferred airline or travel agent as soon as you begin to sketch out your itinerary.

Begin thinking about flying plans at least 6 months ahead of time. Consider exchange-rate movements: Fares may be calculated in U.S. dollars, British pounds, or euros, depending on the airline. The key window for finding a deal is usually between 5 and 6 months ahead of your departure according to a study of some 21 million fare transactions by the Airline Reporting Corporation (a middleman between travel agencies and the airlines). They also found that those who booked on a Sunday statistically found the best rates (on average paying 19% less than those who booked midweek).

The glory days of generous frequent flyer programs and bucket loads of free miles are no more, but those who collect miles via credit cards (rather than trying to fly to get them) are having better luck getting free trips nowadays. The key strategy is to get a card that will work with a number of airlines, rather than one branded by a particular airline (the latter usually have less generous rates of return and more draconian fees). The forum Flyertalk.com is a handy resource for learning how to get the most out of your miles (both for airlines and hotels); such companies as AwardMagic.com and IFlyWithMiles.com can help stressed travelers redeem miles for flights for a flat fee that’s usually far less than a ticket from the United States to Ireland would have cost.

Run searches through the regular online agents such as Expedia, as well as metasearch engines like DoHop.com, Kayak.com, and Skyscanner.net. For complex journeys, with multiple departures, doing multiple searches (so that affordable intra-European airlines such as Ryanair, Flybe, and EasyJet show up on the search) is a good way to find deals; a specialist flight agent such as RoundtheWorldFlights.com or AirTreks.com will also likely save you money.

By Ferry

If you’re traveling to Ireland from Britain or the Continent, traveling by ferry is a good alternative to flying. Several car and passenger ferries offer reasonably comfortable furnishings, cabin berths (for longer crossings), restaurants, duty-free shopping, and lounges. You may be surprised, however, by how long it takes, even from super-near neighbor Britain; the quickest U.K.–to–Ireland ferry route is Holyhead to Dublin, which is a little over 3 hours; the sailing from Fishguard to Dublin takes well over 7 hours. From Cherbourg in France it's a whopping 18 hours.

Prices fluctuate seasonally and depend on your route, time of travel, and whether you are on foot or in a car. Check with your travel agent for up-to-date details, but the lowest one-way adult fare in high season on the Holyhead to Dublin ferry starts at £30. A car usually costs about £80 including one adult passenger, plus £30 per extra adult, £15 extra child.

Irish Ferries (www.irishferries.ie; 0818/300-400 in the Republic of Ireland, or 353/818-300-400 in Northern Ireland/U.K.) operates between Pembroke, Wales, and Rosslare, County Wexford. It also sails from Cherbourg and Rosscoff in France.

Stena Line (www.stenaline.com; 01/204-7777) sails from Fishguard, Wales, to Rosslare; and from Cairnryan, Scotland, and Liverpool, England, to Belfast, Northern Ireland.

P&O Irish Sea Ferries (www.poferries.com; 0871/664-2121 in Britain, 01/407-3434 in Ireland, or 352/3420-808-294 in the rest of the world) operates from Liverpool to Dublin and from Cairnryan, Scotland, to Larne, County Antrim, Northern Ireland.

Staying Connected

Telephones

In the Republic, the telephone system is known as Eircom; in Northern Ireland, it's British Telecom. Every effort has been made to ensure that the numbers and information in this guide are accurate at the time of writing. Overseas calls from Ireland can be quite costly, whether you use a local phone card or your own calling card.

To call Ireland from home: Dial the international access code (011 from the U.S., 00 from the U.K., 0011 from Australia, or 0170 from New Zealand). Then dial the country code (353 for the Republic, 44 for the North). Next, dial the local number, remembering to omit the initial 0, which is for use only within Ireland (for example, to call the County Kerry number 066/12345 from the United States, you'd dial 011-353-66/12345). To make local calls: To dial a local number within an area code, drop the initial 0. To dial a number within Ireland, but in a different area code, use the initial 0. Local calls from a phone booth require a Callcard (in the Republic) or Phonecard (in the North). Both are prepaid computerized cards that you insert into the phone instead of coins. They can be purchased in a range of denominations at phone company offices, post offices, and many retail outlets (such as newsstands). There's a local and international phone center at the General Post Office on O'Connell Street in Dublin.

To make international calls from within Ireland, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. and Canada 1, U.K. 44, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and local number. For example, to call the U.S. number 212/000-0000 from Ireland, you'd dial tel. 00-1-212/000-0000. The toll-free international access code for AT&T is tel. 1-800-550-000, for Sprint it's tel. 1-800-552-001, and for MCI it's tel. 1-800-55-1001. Note: To dial direct to Northern Ireland from the Republic, simply replace the 028 prefix with 048.

For directory assistance, dial the toll-free number tel. 11811 if you're looking for a number inside Ireland. In Northern Ireland, try tel. 118888. From the United States, the (toll) number to call is tel. 00353-91-770220.

Mobile Phones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile and AT&T Wireless use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM, and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM.

If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone, you can make and receive calls while you're in Ireland. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be very high. Other options include renting a phone in Ireland. You can either rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, or rent one before you leave home.

As another option, you can purchase a "pay as you go" SIM card from an Irish phone company and use that in your own phone, topping it up whenever you need to. There's a Vodafone shop in Dublin airport where you can purchase an Irish SIM card. This allows you to pay in-country rather than international rates for calls you receive while you're there.

Disposable phones are less common in Ireland and the U.K. than in some other countries, although some supermarkets do sell them.

If you buy a disposable phone or an Irish SIM card, local calls may be as low as 10¢ per minute, and in Ireland incoming calls are free.

Internet & Wi-Fi

Wi-Fi is widespread in Irish cities, but rural areas are still not well-served. The best B&Bs do provide it, but in some far-flung areas (Donegal, the North, and parts of Galway) it's still quite rare in rural B&Bs, and even some four-star hotels. Internet cafes are less common than they used to be, although you'll still find PCs you can use in hotels, hostels, libraries, and tourist information offices, especially in larger towns and more tourist-centered areas.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior when you first make your travel reservations -- although most of the major U.S. airlines have canceled their senior discount and coupon book programs, many hotels still offer discounts for seniors. In most cities, people over the age of 60 qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions.

Seniors, known throughout Ireland as OAPs (old-age pensioners), enjoy a variety of discounts and privileges. Native OAPs ride the public transport system free of charge, but the privilege does not extend to tourists. Visiting seniors can avail themselves of other discounts, though, particularly on admission to attractions and theaters. Always ask about an OAP discount if special rates are not posted.

Tourism Ireland is helpful, and can offer advice on how to find the best accommodations, travel, and so forth. It publishes lists of reduced-rate hotel packages for seniors; contact it for details.

Members of AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone 50 and over can join. Similarly, SAGA Tours (tel. 800/343-0273 or 617/262-2262) operates tours to Ireland specifically geared to seniors or anyone 50 and over.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Ireland has come a long way since homosexuality was legalized in 1993 (1982 in the North). It legalized gay marriage by referendum and has elected a gay Prime Minister. LGBTQ Travelers should have few concerns in visiting Eire.

Among the best resources on the Web are Gay Ireland Online (www.gay-ireland.com) and Outhouse (www.outhouse.ie). These include events listings, advice sections, useful contacts, and discussion forums.

When to Go

A visit to Ireland in the summer is very different from a trip in the winter. Generally speaking, in summer, airfares, car-rental rates, and hotel prices are highest and crowds at their most intense. But the days are long (6am sunrises and 10pm sunsets), the weather is warm, and every sightseeing attraction and B&B is open. In winter, you may get rock-bottom prices on airfare and hotels. But it will rain and the wind will blow, and many rural sights and a fair proportion of rural B&Bs and restaurants will be closed.

All things considered, we think the best time to visit is in spring and autumn, when weather falls in between bad and good, but prices are lower than in high season and the crowds have yet to descend.

Weather

Rain is the one constant in Irish weather, although a bit of sunshine is usually just around the corner. The best of times and the worst of times are often only hours, or even minutes, apart. It can be chilly in Ireland at any time of year, so think layers when you pack.

Winters can be brutal, as the wind blows in off the Atlantic with numbing constancy, and strong gales are common. But deep snow is rare and temperatures rarely drop much below freezing. In fact, Ireland is a fairly temperate place: January and February bring frosts but seldom snow, and July and August are very warm but rarely hot. The Irish consider any temperature over 68°F (20°C) to be “roasting” and below 34°F (1°C) as bone-chilling.

Holidays

The Republic observes the following national holidays, also known as Bank Holidays: New Year’s Day (Jan 1); St. Patrick’s Day (Mar 17); Easter Monday (variable); May Day (May 1); first Mondays in June and August (summer Bank Holidays); last Monday in October (autumn Bank Holiday); Christmas (Dec 25); and St. Stephen’s Day (Dec 26). Good Friday (the Friday before Easter) is mostly observed—all pubs must close on Good Friday, although this archaic law is the subject of hot debate. In the North, the schedule of holidays is the same as in the Republic, with some exceptions: the North’s summer Bank Holidays fall on the last Monday of May and August; the Battle of the Boyne is celebrated on Orangeman’s Day (July 12); and Boxing Day (Dec 26) follows Christmas.

In both Ireland and Northern Ireland, holidays that fall on weekends are celebrated the following Monday.

Tips on Dining

Restaurants in Ireland are surprisingly expensive—even after the economic crash, the cost of eating out here is still well above the European average. On the plus side, Ireland’s restaurants are varied and interesting—settings range from old-world hotel dining rooms, country mansions, and castles to sky-lit terraces, shop-front bistros, riverside cottages, thatched-roof pubs, and converted houses. Lately, appreciation has grown for creative cooking with an emphasis on locally grown produce and meat.

Before you book a table, here are a few things you should know.

Reservations -- Except for self-service eateries, informal cafes, and some popular seafood spots, most restaurants encourage reservations; most expensive restaurants require them. In the most popular places, Friday and Saturday nights are often booked up a week in advance, so have a few options in mind if you’re booking at the last minute.

Tip: If you stop into or phone a restaurant and find that it is booked from 8 or 8:30pm onward, ask if you can dine early (at 6:30 or 7pm), with a promise to leave by 8pm. It works sometimes.

Prices -- Meal prices at restaurants include national sales taxes (universally referred to as VAT, or Value Added Tax), at the rate of 13.5% in the Republic of Ireland and 20% in Northern Ireland. Many restaurants include the tip as a service charge added automatically to the bill (usually listed at the bottom, just before the bill’s total); it generally ranges from 10% to 15%. When no service charge is added, tip around 12% or so, depending on the quality of the service. But do check your bil—some unscrupulous restaurants do not make it clear that you have already tipped, thus causing you to inadvertently tip twice.

Dining Customs -- Don't be surprised if you are not ushered to your table as soon as you arrive at some upscale restaurants. This is not a delaying tactic—many of the better dining rooms carry on the old custom of seating you in a lounge while you sip an aperitif and peruse the menu. Your waiter then comes to discuss the choices and to take your order. You are not called to the table until the first course is about to be served. You are not under an obligation to have a cocktail, of course. It’s perfectly fine to order a soft drink or just a glass of water.

Dining Bargains -- If you want to try a top-rated restaurant but can't afford dinner, have your main meal there in the middle of the day by trying the set-lunch menu. You'll experience the same great cuisine at half the price. The slow economy has caused restaurants to compete for customers by offering more set-price meals, early-bird specials (sometimes through the whole evening, or every night early in the week), and other discount enticements. Keep an eye out for them.

Alternatively, try pub food. Pub menus usually include a mix of sandwiches and traditional Irish food, including stews and meat pies. In recent years, many pubs have converted or expanded into restaurants, serving excellent, unpretentious meals at (somewhat) reasonable prices. But beware: Some pubs have taken advantage of rising restaurant prices to raise their own prices. Check the menu before you sit down at a table (most places post them by their doors).

Supermarkets and grocery stores in Ireland sell good premade sandwiches (these are much better than similar supermarket sandwiches in the U.S.) for a few euro. These can make a good, cheap lunch or dinner. Coffee shops also sell sandwiches for a few euro, and muffins for even less (for a quick, cheap breakfast).

Pubs

The pub is a mainstay of Irish social life—every city, town, and hamlet has a pub. Most people have a “local”—a favorite pub near home—where they go for a drink and conversation with neighbors, family, and friends. Pubs are more about socializing than drinking, and many people you see are just having a soft drink (lime cordial and soda water is a favorite, or orange juice and lemon soda). So even if you don't drink alcohol, feel free to go to the pub. It’s a good way to meet locals.

Pub Hours -- Pubs in the Republic set their own hours, although closing times are bound by the type of alcohol license they have. Those with a regular license must shut by 11:30pm from Sunday to Thursday, and 12:30am on Friday and Saturday. Those with late licenses can stay open until 2:30am Monday to Saturday, and 2am Sunday. In Northern Ireland (which is governed by different laws), hours are slightly more restrictive, although this is currently the subject of debate. On Friday and Saturday nights, many pubs stay open until midnight or 1am, and a few even later than that, particularly in large towns and cities. It should also be noted that legal closing times can be hard to police in rural areas.

You’ll notice that when the barman calls “closing time,” nobody clears out of the pub. “Closing time” is simply the time when the barmen must stop serving alcohol. Expect to hear a shout for “Last orders!” (or the marvelous if antiquated “Time, gentlemen, please!”) Anyone who wants to order his or her last drink does so then. The pubs don’t actually close for another 20 to 30 minutes. Eventually, bartenders shout “Time to leave!,” lights are turned up brightly, and patrons head for the exit.

Money

The Republic of Ireland uses the single European currency known as the euro (€). Euro notes come in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200, and €500. The euro is divided into 100 cents; coins come in denominations of €2, €1, 50¢, 20¢, 10¢, 5¢, 2¢, and 1¢.

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

As part of the United Kingdom, Northern Ireland uses the British pound sterling (£). The British pound is not accepted in the Republic, and the euro is not accepted in the North -- if you're traveling in both parts of Ireland, you'll need some of both currencies, although shops right on the border tend to accept both. For those traveling between Great Britain and Northern Ireland, although the pounds issued in Northern Ireland are legal tender in Great Britain and vice versa, the paper money actually looks different, and you may find that cabdrivers and small business owners in the North won't accept bills issued in Great Britain and vice versa. In that case, you can change the money into locally issued versions at any large central bank, free of charge.

The British currency used in Northern Ireland has notes in denominations of £5, £10, £20, £50, and £100. Coins are issued in £2, £1, 50p, 20p, 10p, 5p, 2p, and 1p denominations.

Note for all international travelers: the values of most currencies have been fluctuating a great deal lately, so it is best to begin checking exchange rates well in advance of your visit to get a feel for where they will stand for your trip.

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a "cash machine" or a "cashpoint." The Cirrus and PLUS ATM networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Large towns usually have an ATM, but in rural counties -- especially Galway, Clare, and Limerick -- ATMs can be few and far between. We once drove 50 miles looking for an ATM in Clare before finally finding one, so stock up on cash if you're headed out to the countryside. If you're having difficulty locating an ATM, some convenience stores have their own (usually indicated by a sign outside), although these usually incur an extra charge of a couple of euro.

Most Republic and Northern Ireland ATMs accept PINs of four to six digits, but they often do not have alphanumeric keypads. If your PIN features letters (for example: STAN37), use a telephone dial to figure out the numeric equivalents (or better yet, memorize it before you leave home).

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency). Visa and MasterCard are the most widely accepted credit cards in Ireland. American Express and Diners Club are accepted by most major hotels, but are less commonly accepted elsewhere. Cards are widely accepted at shops and restaurants, although small rural businesses and some B&Bs do not accept them.

Traveler's checks are not widely accepted in Ireland. You'll probably have to change the checks at a bank and pay a fee for the privilege. That said, the most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233 or 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee), Visa (tel. 1800-411-055 toll-free in Ireland), and MasterCard (tel. 800/622-7747).

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the "Travel Tools" icon.

What Things Cost in Ireland (Euro €)

Taxi from the airport to Dublin 20-30

Double room, moderate 100-200

Double room, inexpensive 50-100

Cup of coffee 2.25

Pint of beer 3.50

Movie ticket 8.50

Bus fare 1.20

Moderate three-course meal for one 30.00

Gallon of gas 5.60

Special-Interest Vacations

History & Architecture Tours

The Dublin bus company Dublin Bus (tel. 01/873-4222; www.dublinbus.ie) operates several tours focusing on Irish history and architecture, all of which depart from the Dublin Bus office at 59 Upper O'Connell St., Dublin 1. You can buy your ticket from the bus driver or book in advance at the Dublin Bus office or at the Dublin Tourism ticket desk on Suffolk Street.

Gray Line (tel. 01/605-7705; www.irishcitytours.com) offers a range of full-day and multiple-day excursions from Dublin, to the historic monastic site at Glendalough, as well as to the prehistoric remains at Newgrange, and the architecturally significant Powerscourt.

The national bus company, Bus Éireann (tel. 091/562000; www.buseireann.ie), provides a good range of tours throughout Ireland. You can tour Dublin and around to Glendalough or Newgrange by bus, or travel by boat to Waterford, and it also offers good tours of Galway, taking in the Maam Cross, Recess, Roundstone, and Clifden.

For a more historical, intellectual approach to Ireland's famous history, try Mary Gibbons Tours (tel. 086/355-1355; www.newgrangetours.com), which leads absorbing, in-depth tours of Newgrange, Powerscourt, and Glendalough.

Adventure Trips

For touring the Wicklow Mountains and Glendalough, try Discover Dublin (tel. 01/280-1899; www.discoverdublin.ie), which offers a tour it has dubbed the "Wild Wicklow Tour." Wild might be too strong a word, but it is certainly lively and enjoyable, and includes visits to the mountainous area around Avoca and the scenic Sally Gap.

Political Tours

The best tours in Belfast are the extraordinary Black Taxi Tours (tel. 0800/052-3914 or 0289/064-2264; www.belfasttours.com), which take you through the areas where the Troubles had the most impact, and explain it all in intelligent, compassionate, unbiased, firsthand terms.

Tips on Accommodations

Foreign visitors to Ireland should always have at least their first night’s room booked, as you will be required to give an address at Immigration when you arrive at the airport. If you need help finding accommodations for subsequent nights once you’re in Ireland, contact the local tourism office as soon as possible.

Booking in advance is your best strategy anyway, especially in the summer, when prices can spike up and fall within the course of a week. If you book a month or two in advance, you can often get a better rate at a 4-star hotel than at a 2-star guesthouse, as the most expensive hotels have been offering in-advance discounts of up to 50%. So before you book that cheap hotel with no services, just have a peek at your dream hotel’s prices and see if it’s not as cheap, or maybe even cheaper.

Accommodations in Ireland range widely in quality and cost. Often these variations are due to location: a wonderful budget B&B in an isolated area of countryside can be dirt-cheap, while a mediocre guesthouse in Dublin or Cork can cost much more. Even in the same lodging, the size and quality of the rooms can vary considerably, especially in older hotels and houses converted to B&Bs. Don’t be discouraged by this, but do a little research so you know what you’re booking.

For even more information about staying in Ireland, Be Our Guest is a comprehensive guide to the hotels, country houses, castles, and inns of Ireland, published by the Irish Hotel Federation. It is available from the Irish Tourist Board. It's also online at www.irelandhotels.com, which is a handy, searchable site, with options to sort hotels by feature (TV in all rooms, elevators, babysitting, and so on).

Those looking for something exclusive should try Ireland's Blue Book (www.irelands-blue-book.ie), which lists a collection of upscale manor house hotels and castles.

Bed & Breakfasts, Cottages, and Apartments

Among your various options, B&Bs are often hard to beat. These smaller lodgings, usually in residential areas, can be charming and homey—we list several of the best in this book. Breakfast is included in the rate, and it’s often hearty. Note that while most B&Bs are regulated and inspected by Ireland’s Tourism Quality Services (look for the shamrock seal of approval), many perfectly fine establishments choose not to pay the annual fee that the stamp of approval requires, so don’t assume that a place without the shamrock is subpar. Hidden Ireland (www.hiddenireland.com; 098/66650) is a collection of particularly elegant and unique B&Bs on the higher end of the price spectrum. Another interesting option if you’re traveling in the countryside, especially if you’re with small children, is to stay in a farmhouse B&B on a family-run farm. Contact B&B Ireland (www.irishfarmholidays.com; 071/982-2222) for an annual guide to farmhouse accommodations.

In the high season it's a good idea to make your reservation weeks in advance. However, you can often find a room at a B&B when you arrive out of season. For payment, make sure you ask whether they take credit cards. While each year more and more B&Bs accept them, but many still do not.

In the North, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board inspects each of its recommended B&Bs annually. Its Information Guide to Bed & Breakfast is available free from the NITB. The NITB also sells a useful comprehensive annual listing titled Where to Stay in Northern Ireland.

Self-Catering: Apartments, Cottages, Castles, and More

If you want to stay awhile and establish a base, consider renting a self-catering apartment, townhouse, or cottage. Self-catering is a huge business in Ireland. The minimum rental period is usually 1 week, although shorter periods are negotiable in the off season. Families especially may appreciate the convenience of having more room to spread out and a kitchen for preparing meals. Rent an Irish Cottage (www.rentacottage.ie; 061/411-109) offers a selection of traditional cottages all over Ireland, fully modernized. The not-for-profit Irish Landmark Trust (www.irishlandmark.com; 01/670-4733) offers historic properties, refurbished in period style, at prices lower than you might expect. On the pricier side, Elegant Ireland (www.elegant.ie; 01/473-2505) offers anything from a chic seaside bungalow to a medieval castle sleeping 20.

Other the self-catering companies worth checking out include Trident Holiday Homes, 15 Irishtown Rd., Irishtown, Dublin 4 (tel. 01/201-8440; www.tridentholidayhomes.ie). For alluring seaside properties in west County Cork, try Cashelfean Holiday Houses, Durrus, County Cork (tel. 027/62000; www.cashelfean.com).

Youth Hostels

Nowadays, Ireland’s hostels are redesigning to attract travelers of all ages, as well as families. Many have private rooms and they cost a fraction of even a modest bed-and-breakfast. Contact AnÓige, the Irish Youth Hostel Association (www.anoige.ie; 01/830-4555) or, in the North, HINI (Hostelling International Northern Ireland; www.hini.org.uk; 098/9032-4733) for listings.

Terminology -- The Irish use the phrase "en suite" to indicate a room with private bathroom. A "double" has a double bed, and a "twin" has two single beds. An "orthopedic" bed has an extra firm mattress. Queen- and king-size beds are not common except in large, deluxe hotels.

Reservations -- If you arrive in Ireland without a room reservation for some nights of your stay, and you're not sure where to look, try the local tourist office, which can help with its computerized reservation service known as Gulliver. In Ireland or Northern Ireland, you can also call the Gulliver line directly (tel. 00800/668-668-66). This is a nationwide and cross-border "free-phone" facility for credit card bookings, operated 8am to 11pm from Monday to Friday, and 8am to 10pm weekends. Gulliver is also accessible from the United States (011-800/668-668-66) and on the Web at www.gulliver.ie.

Quality & Value -- In any given lodging, the size and quality of the rooms can vary considerably, often without any corresponding variation in cost. This is particularly true of single rooms, which can approach Victorian boardinghouse standards in some guesthouses. Don't be discouraged by this, but know what you're getting into so you're not disappointed. If you have complaints, state them at once and unambiguously -- doing so may bring an immediate resolution (ask for a lower rate or a better room).

Note: Many lodgings close for a few days or more on and around Christmas, even when they announce that they are open year-round. If you plan to visit Ireland during the Christmas holidays, double-check that the hotels, restaurants, and attractions you're counting on will be open.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Responsible tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore, and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of responsible travel are eco-tourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines eco-tourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that eco-tourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills -- just a willingness to work hard -- and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly.

For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Getting Around

By Car

Although Ireland has a reasonably extensive network of public transportation, it will only be useful if you don’t mind being confined to the major towns and cities, or depending on organized tours for attractions that are farther afield. Trains tend not to go to charming small towns and villages, and great houses and castles are usually miles from any major town. Bus service to places off the beaten track can be infrequent.

Renting a car is not for everyone—particularly if you’re not used to driving on small, winding European country roads (and on the left side of the road). But if you’re intrepid enough to do it, this is by far the best way to get around. It will give you the most freedom and open up more choices to you than any other way of getting around. Put simply: rent a car and you’ll see more of Ireland.

In the summer, weekly rental rates on a manual-transmission compact vehicle begin at around €160 and ascend steeply. Rates are much cheaper out of season.

Unless your stay in Ireland extends beyond 6 months, your own valid driver’s license (provided you’ve had it for at least 6 months) is all you need to drive in Ireland. Rules and restrictions for car rental correspond roughly to those in other European nations and the U.S., with two important distinctions: Most rental-car agencies in the Republic won’t rent to you (1) if you’re under 25 or over age 74 (there’s no upper age limit in the North) or (2) if your license has been valid for less than a year.

Driving Laws, Tips & Warnings -- Highway safety has become a critical issue in Ireland during the past several years. The number of highway fatalities is high for such a small nation—Ireland regularly comes out near the bottom of European league tables for accident rates. In an effort to rein in Irish drivers, the Republic now uses a penalty “points” system similar to that in the U.K. and the U.S. Although visitors won’t have points added to their licenses, they may still be fined if they speed or commit driving infractions.

All distances and speed limits on road signs in the Republic of Ireland are in kilometers, while in Northern Ireland they are in miles. Take care if you’re driving around the borderlands—the border is unmarked, so you can cross over from one side to the other without knowing it. It’s easy to get confused and speed accidentally.

Getting used to left-side driving, left-handed stick shift, narrow roads, and a new landscape all present a challenge, especially if you’re driving solo—it’s helpful if you can have somebody along to navigate. Some people even use tricks such as sticking a big arrow to the dashboard reminding you that the left is your default lane.

A GPS navigation device can be invaluable in finding your way around, especially in the remote countryside. Nearly all rental firms offer them.

Roundabouts (what Americans call traffic circles or rotaries) are found on most major roads and take a little getting used to. Remember always to yield to traffic coming from the right as you approach a roundabout and follow the traffic to the left, signaling before you exit the circle.

One signal that could be misleading to U.S. drivers is a flashing amber light at a pedestrian traffic light. This almost always follows a red light, and it means yield to pedestrians but proceed when the crossing is clear.

The Republic has relatively few types of roads. Motorways (M) are major highways, the equivalent of Interstates in the U.S. National (N) roads, which link major cities, are rarely more than two lanes in each direction (and are sometimes as small as one American-sized lane). Most pass directly through towns, making cross-country trips longer than you’d expect. Regional (R) roads have one lane of traffic traveling in each direction and generally link smaller cities and towns. Last are the rural or unclassified roads, often the most scenic back roads. These can be poorly signposted, very narrow, and a bit rough, but they usually travel through beautiful countryside.

Both the Republic and Northern Ireland have severe laws against drunk driving. The legal limit is 35 micrograms of alcohol per 100 milliliters of breath. What that equates to varies by person, but even one pint of beer can be enough to put you over the limit. The general rule is: Do not drink and drive.

1. Drive on the left side of the road.
2. Road signs are in kilometers, except in Northern Ireland, where they are in miles.
3. On motorways, the left lane is the traveling lane. The right lane is for passing.
4. Everyone must wear a seat belt by law. Children must be in age-appropriate child seats.
5. Children 11 and under are not allowed to sit in the front seat.
6. When entering a roundabout (traffic circle), give way to traffic coming from the right.
7. Another roundabout rule: always go left (clockwise) around the circle.
8. The speed limits are 50kmph (31 mph) in urban areas; 80kmph (50 mph) on regional and local roads, sometimes referred to as non-national roads; 100kmph (62 mph) on national roads, including divided highways (called dual carriageways); and 120kmph (75 mph) on freeways (called motorways).

Rentals -- Most rental companies offer their best prices to customers who reserve in advance from their home country. Ireland is a small country, and in high season it can virtually run out of rental cars—but long before it does, it runs out of affordable rental cars. Note that weekly rentals are almost always less expensive than day rentals, and keep in mind that the vast majority of available rental cars have manual transmissions (stick shifts). Automatics are available, but for a premium. Another word of warning: fuel is very expensive in Ireland.

By law, you must be between the ages of 25 and 75 to rent a car in Ireland. The only documentation you should need is your driver’s license and photo I.D., such as a passport, plus a printout of your reservation if you have one.

When you reserve a car, be sure to ask if the price includes: all taxes including value-added tax (VAT); breakdown assistance; unlimited mileage; personal accident or liability insurance (PAI); collision-damage waiver (CDW); theft waiver; and any other insurance options. If not, ask what these extras cost, because they can make a big dent in your bottom line. The CDW and other insurance might be covered by your credit card if you use the card to pay for the rental; check with your card issuer to be sure that there are no restrictions on that coverage in Ireland. (Not all cards do offer insurance protection for car rentals in Ireland.) Some travelers like to live dangerously and waive optional insurance. But when no CDW is purchased, many rental agencies will make you pay for any damages on the spot when you return the car—making even the smallest dent or scratch a potentially costly experience. To avoid any issues, take cellphone photos of your car with a time stamp, so that you have any dents and dings recorded and won’t be charged for it.

If your credit card doesn’t cover the CDW, consider buying Car Rental Collision Coverage from a third party. Travel Guard (www.travelguard.com; 1800/826-4919 in the U.S. and Canada) will insure you for around US$8 to US$10 per day. In the U.K., Insurance 4 Car Hire (www.insurance4carhire.com; 0344/892-1770) offers similar coverage.

Parking -- You're better off without a car in Dublin. Traffic, a shortage of parking places, and one-way streets conspire to make you regret having wheels. In Dublin, virtually all streets are pay to park. Look for signs directing you to ticket machines; there should be one each block or so. Some larger towns also have multistory car parks; in central Dublin they average about €2 per hour and €23 for 24 hours.

By contrast, parking in most villages and small towns is easy and usually free. Look out for public parking lots -- they're often free and are clearly marked at the edge of town centers.

In Belfast and other large cities in the North, some special security measures are always in place. Control zone signs indicate that no unattended vehicle can be left there at any time. That means if you are a single traveler, you cannot leave your car; if you are a twosome, one person must remain in the car while it's parked. Also, unlocked cars anywhere in the North are subject to a fine, for security reasons.

By Train

Train travel is generally the fastest way to get around the country. Iarnród Éireann (Irish Rail) (www.irishrail.ie; 1850/366222 or 01/836-6222) operates the train services in Ireland. Most lines radiate from Dublin to other principal cities and towns. From Dublin, the journey time to Cork is about 2 1/2 hours; to Belfast, just over 2 hours; to Galway, just under 2 1/2 hours; to Killarney, 3 1/4 hours; to Sligo, 3 hours; and to Waterford, about 2 1/4 hours.

In addition to Irish Rail service between Dublin and Belfast, Translink (www.translink.co.uk; 028/9066-6630) operates routes from Belfast that include Coleraine, Derry, and 21 other localities in Northern Ireland.

One useful piece of lingo: when buying any sort of travel tickets—air, ferry, train or bus—a “single” means one-way, a “return” is round-trip.

Money Saving Bus and Rail Passes

The cost of rail travel can quickly mount up, but there are ways to save money. Whenever you can, book in advance. The example fares listed in this itinerary are all pre-booked; walk-up fares can be higher. The downside for booking that way is that you have to specify times of travel—but Irish Rail has a handy policy of letting you upgrade a pre-booked ticket into something more flexible for just €10.

If you’re going to be spending a lot of time on public transportation, you should also strongly consider buying a money-saving pass. Eurail Pass is good for travel on trains, Expressway coaches, and the Irish Continental Lines ferries between France and Ireland. They cost from €159 for a 3-day pass to €296 for an 8-day pass. (Days can be non-consecutive, so long as they’re all used within a month.) Youth passes (ages 16–25), family, and first-class passes are also available. The passes are valid throughout Ireland (including Northern Ireland). You can also buy Eurail passes that are good for travel in up to 28 European nations. For further details, or for purchase, visit www.eurail.com. Eurail passes can also be purchased from Railpass (www.railpass.com; 877/375-7245 in the U.S), STA Travel (www.sta.com; 800/781-4040 in the U.S.), and other travel agents.

All of this can add up to significant savings, but there are a couple bits of small print to be aware of. First, it’s still advisable to make seat reservations to guarantee a space—this may cost a few extra euro each time in booking fees. And if you’re already a resident of the European Union then you can’t get one! Instead, you may qualify for its Europeans-only equivalent, the Interrail Pass–see www.interrail.eu for details.

By Bus

Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie; 01/836-6111) operates an extensive system of express bus services, as well as local service, to nearly every town in Ireland. The Bus Éireann website provides timetables and fares for bus service throughout the country. Similarly, Translink provides detailed information on services within Northern Ireland (www.translink.co.uk; 028/9066-6630). Bus travel in both countries is affordable, reliable, and comfortable—but also slow.

By Plane

Regions in Brief

The island of Ireland is divided into two political units: the Republic of Ireland, which makes up the vast majority of the country, and Northern Ireland, which along with England, Scotland, and Wales is part of the United Kingdom. Of Ireland’s 32 counties, all but 6 are in the Republic.

Ireland divided into two separate countries in 1922, when the British government that had occupied Ireland agreed to allow the Republic to become a free state, with the exception of the six northern counties that remained part of the U.K.

Currently, the line between north and south is no longer marked, and the only indication on many roads that you've crossed into a different nation is the road signs, which change from metric distances in the Republic to imperial in Northern Ireland.

The ancient Gaelic regions that once divided Ireland are still used in conversation and directions: Ulster is north, Munster is south, Leinster is east, and Connaught is west. Each region is divided into counties:

In Ulster (to the north) -- Cavan, Donegal, and Monaghan in the Republic; Antrim, Armagh, Derry, Down, Fermanagh, and Tyrone in Northern Ireland.

In Munster (to the south) -- Clare, Cork, Kerry, Limerick, Tipperary, and Waterford.

In Leinster (to the east) -- Dublin, Carlow, Kildare, Kilkenny, Laois, Longford, Louth, Meath, Offaly, Westmeath, Wexford, and Wicklow.

In Connaught (to the west) -- Sligo, Mayo, Galway, Roscommon, and Leitrim.

Dublin & Environs -- With 40% of the Republic’s population living within 97km (60 miles) of Dublin, the capital is the center of the profound changes that have transformed Ireland into a prosperous and increasingly European country. Within an hour’s drive of Dublin are Dalkey, Dún Laoghaire, and many more engaging coastal towns, as well as the rural beauty of the Wicklow Mountains and the prehistoric ruins in County Meath.

The Southeast -- The southeast offers sandy beaches, Wexford’s lush and mountainous countryside, Waterford’s famous Crystal Factory, Kilkenny's and Cahir’s ancient castles, and the Irish National Heritage Park at Ferrycarrig.

Cork & Environs -- Cork, Ireland’s second largest city, is a buzzy university town and a congenial gateway to the south and west of the island. Within arm’s reach are Blarney Castle (and its famous stone), the culinary and scenic delights of Kinsale, the historic emigration port of Cobh, and the dazzling landscape of West Cork.

The Southwest -- The once remote splendor of County Kerry has long ceased to be a secret, at least during the high season. The Ring of Kerry (less glamorously known as hwys. N70 and N71) encircling the Iveragh Peninsula is Ireland’s most visited attraction after the Book of Kells. That’s both a recommendation and a warning. While Killarney National Park provides a stunning haven from buses, the town of Killarney is filled with souvenir shops and tour groups. Marginally less visited highlights include the rugged Dingle Peninsula and two sets of islands with rich histories: the Skelligs and the Blaskets.

The West -- The west of Ireland offers a first taste of Ireland’s wild beauty and striking diversity, especially handy for those who fly into Shannon Airport. County Clare’s natural offerings—particularly the unique landscapes of the Burren—are unforgettable, and the county also has an array of impressive castles: Knappogue, Bunratty, and (just over the county line in Galway) Dunguaire.

Galway & Environs -- Galway Town is busy, colorful, and funky—a youthful port and university town and the self-proclaimed arts capital of Ireland with lots of theater, music, and dance. County Galway is the gateway to Connemara’s moody, magical mountains and boglands. Offshore lie the atmospheric, mysterious Aran Islands.

The Northwest -- In Ireland it’s easy to become convinced that isolated austerity is beautiful. Nowhere is this more evident than in County Donegal, with its jagged, desolate coastline. (If you don’t mind the cold, it offers some fine surfing.) Inland, Glenveagh National Park has as much wilderness as you could want.

The Midlands -- The lush center of Ireland, bisected by the lazy River Shannon, is a land of pastures, rivers, lakes, woods, and gentle mountain slopes, and a retreat, in high season, from the throngs of tourists who crowd the coasts. The Midlands also hold remarkable sites—Birr Castle and its splendid gardens, for example, and Clonmacnoise, the evocative ruins of a famous Irish monastic center. There is also an array of outdoor pursuits such as cycling, boating, fishing, and hiking.

The North Shannon Valley -- Farther up the coast to the north, past Galway, County Mayo offers the sweet town of Westport on Clew Bay and Achill Island (accessible by car), with its beaches and stunning cliff views. County Sligo inspired the poetry of W. B. Yeats, and it offers a dense collection of stone circles, passage tombs, and cairns at such sites as Carrowmore, Knocknarea, and Carrowkeel.

Northern Ireland -- Across the border, Northern Ireland’s six counties are a decade-and-a-half into a new era. It’s still one of the most underrated parts of Ireland, with such attractions as the stunning Antrim Coast, the extraordinary basalt columns of the Giant’s Causeway, and the Glens of Antrim. The old city walls of Derry, the past glory of Carrickfergus Castle, and Belfast’s elaborate political murals make a trip across the border worthwhile.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- Area codes in Ireland range from one number (the Dublin area code is “1”) to three. Area codes are included in all listings in this guide. Within Ireland, you dial 0 before the area code. Outside of Ireland, however, you do not dial 0 before the area code.

Business Hours -- Banks are generally open 10am to 4pm Monday to Wednesday and Friday and 10am to 5pm on Thursday. Post offices (also known as An Post) are generally open from 9am to 5:30pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 1:30pm on Saturday. Some take an hour for lunch from 1 to 2pm, and small or rural branches may close on Saturday. Museums and sights are generally open 10am to 5pm Tuesday to Saturday and 2 to 5pm on Sunday. Shops generally open 9am to 6pm Monday to Saturday with late opening on Thursday until 7 or 8pm. Most shops in larger towns and cities will also open on Sundays (typically from late morning to late afternoon). Major shops, such as department stores, often stay open much later than other businesses.

Cellphones -- See “Mobile Phones,” below.

Disabled Travelers -- For disabled travelers, Ireland is a mixed bag. Its modern buildings and cities are generally accessible, but many of its historic buildings often lack wheelchair access. Trains can be accessed by wheelchairs but only with assistance. If you plan to travel by train in Ireland, check out Iarnród Éireann’s website (www.irishrail.ie), which includes services for travelers with disabilities.

Finding accessible lodging can be tricky in Ireland. Many buildings here are hundreds of years old, and older hotels, small guesthouses, and landmark buildings still have steps outside and in. The rule of thumb should be: Never assume that a B&B, hotel, or restaurant has accessible facilities—ask about your requirements before booking. To research options prior to your trip, one excellent online resource is www.disability.ie. For advice on travel to Northern Ireland, contact Disability Action (www.disabilityaction.org; 028/9029-7880). The Northern Ireland Tourist Board also publishes a helpful annual Information Guide to Accessible Accommodation, available from any of its offices worldwide.

Doctors -- Healthcare in Ireland is comparable to that in other European nations. In the Irish system, private doctors and hospitals provide care and patients purchase healthcare insurance.

Drinking Laws -- The minimum legal age to buy alcohol in Ireland is 18. Children under 18 are allowed in pubs until 9pm, or 10pm from May to September, so long as they’re with their parents or guardians. (In practice, pubs serving food often have separate dining areas, which can accommodate children later.) Pubs are allowed to stay open until 11:30pm during the week, and around 12:30am on weekends, though some have licenses that allow them to stay open later. Many pubs choose to close earlier on Sundays. These times are roughly comparable in Northern Ireland.

A restaurant can serve alcohol to diners if it has a liquor license (restaurants with no liquor license may allow you to bring your own alcoholic beverages—we state in our restaurant listings if this is the case). Alcohol is for sale at dedicated liquor stores (or “Off Licenses”), in addition to supermarkets and convenience stores. Important note: Drunk-driving laws in Ireland are very strict. Even a single pint of beer could be enough to put you over the limit. If you’re arrested for drunk driving, penalties range from a hefty fine to jail time. Rules in Northern Ireland are even more severe. The safest way is simply not to drink and drive.

Electricity -- The Irish electric system operates on 220 volts with a large plug bearing three rectangular prongs. The Northern Irish system operates on 250 volts with a similar plug. To use standard American 110-volt appliances, you’ll need both a transformer and a plug adapter. Most new laptops have built-in transformers, but some do not, so beware.

Embassies & Consulates -- The American Embassy is at 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (dublin.usembassy.gov; 01/668-8777); the Canadian Embassy is at 7–8 Wilton Terrace, 3rd floor, Dublin 2 (www.canadainternational.gc.ca/ireland-irlande; 01/234-4000); the British Embassy is at 29 Merrion Rd., Dublin 2 (www.gov.uk/government/world/organisations/british-embassy-dublin; 01/205-3700); and the Australian Embassy is at Fitzwilton House, 7 floor, Wilton Terrace, Dublin 2 (www.ireland.embassy.gov.au; 01/664-5300). In Northern Ireland, there’s an American Consulate at Danesfort House, 223 Stranmillis Rd., Belfast BT9 5GR (belfast.usconsulate.gov; 028/9038-6100).

Emergencies -- For the Garda (police), fire, ambulance, or other emergencies, dial 999.

Family Travel -- Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.myfamilytravels.com), Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com).

Internet & Wi-Fi -- Wi-Fi is widespread in Irish hotels and B&Bs, even in rural areas. It’s not universal, however. Most B&Bs and smaller hotels provide it free, but larger hotels sometimes charge for access.

Language -- Ireland has two official languages: English and Gaelic (which is also known as Irish). All native Irish people can speak English. There is a strong national movement to preserve and expand the language, so areas of the country where Gaelic is protected and promoted are known as Gaeltacht. Gaelic is a complex and ancient language that you will not be able to figure out on your own; ask for help (in English) if you get lost. Despite the government’s best hopes, everybody in the Gaeltacht regions speaks English.

LGBT Travelers -- Homosexuality was legalized in Ireland in 1993 (1982 in the North), and same-sex marriages were ratified in the Republic in 2015. Nevertheless, gay and lesbian visitors should be aware that this is still a conservative country. Cities like Dublin and Galway are far more liberal in their attitudes (particularly among the younger generation) but it’s a good idea to proceed with caution when traveling in rural areas. Recommended websites for gay and lesbian travelers include Gay Ireland (www.gay-ireland.com) and Outhouse (www.outhouse.ie).

Lost Property -- If your passport is lost or stolen, contact your country’s embassy immediately. Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover that your wallet is gone and file a report at the nearest police station.

Mail -- In Ireland, mailboxes are painted green with the word post on top. In Northern Ireland, they are painted red with a royal coat of arms. From the Republic, an airmail letter or postcard to any other country outside Europe, not exceeding 100 grams, costs €1.35. From Northern Ireland to Europe, airmail letters not exceeding 100 grams cost £1.00.

Mobile Phones -- Before you leave your home country, check directly with your mobile phone provider to find out about using your phone overseas. You may have to ask for the “international roaming” capability to be switched on before you’re overseas.

Unfortunately, using your own phone in Ireland can prove very expensive. Most mobile phone companies charge very large premiums on call charges made while abroad. If you use a smartphone, such as an iPhone or Android, turn off features such as location services and push notifications, or you could face enormous data roaming charges. Always use Wi-Fi if you need to download anything.

Some travelers prefer to rent a phone for their trip to Ireland. You can do this from any number of overseas sites; several Irish phone companies have kiosks at the main airports, and car-rental agencies can usually rent you a phone for the duration of your stay.

Another option is to purchase a disposable pay-as-you-go phone. Disposable phones aren’t quite as big here as in some countries, due to the relatively low cost of phone contracts; however, you can buy them quite cheaply from mobile phone stores (most airports and any town of reasonable size will have one). Disposable smartphones are also available. For a handy rundown of the cheapest deals on pay-as-you-go phones, check out www.moneyguideireland.com/cheapest-mobile-phone-charges.html.

Call charges in Ireland, and across the European Union, are much lower than they are in many other parts of the world, including the U.S; on pay-as-you-go, expect to pay around €0.35 per minute. You are not charged for incoming calls.

Money -- The Republic of Ireland uses the European currency known as the euro (€). Euro notes come in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200, and €500. The euro is divided into 100 cents; coins come in denominations of €2, €1, 50¢, 20¢, 10¢, 5¢, 2¢, and 1¢.

As part of the United Kingdom, Northern Ireland uses the British pound sterling (£). Notes come in denominations of £5, £10, £20, £50, and £100. Coins are issued in £2, £1, 50p, 20p, 10p, 5p, 2p, and 1p denominations.

The British pound is not accepted in the Republic, and the euro is not accepted in the North—if you’re traveling in both parts of Ireland you’ll need some of both currencies, although shops on the border tend to accept both. Note that pounds issued in Northern Ireland, while legal tender in Great Britain, actually look different. You may find that cabdrivers and small business owners in the North won’t accept bills issued in Great Britain, and vice-versa. In that case, you can change the money into locally issued versions at any large central bank, free of charge.

Note for international travelers: Exchange rates can fluctuate wildly in the space of just a few weeks; before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.xe.com to check up-to-the-minute rates.

When it comes to obtaining foreign currency, please, skip the currency exchange kiosks in airports, train stations, and elsewhere. These give the poorest rates and charge exorbitant fees. Instead, order a small amount of foreign currency from your bank before leaving home, and then use your debit card for the duration of your trip. ATMs (in Ireland also called “cash machines” or “cash points”) will give you a favorable rate, and you can withdraw however much cash you need for a day or so. The Cirrus and Plus ATM networks span the globe; check the back of your bankcard to see which network you’re on. Before you depart, be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit. Confirm with your bank that your PIN will work in Europe, and be sure to let them know the dates and destinations to which you’re traveling—you don’t want to find your card frozen while you’re abroad!

Credit cards are accepted just about everywhere, save street markets, small independent retailers, street-food vendors, and occasional small or family-owned businesses. However, North American visitors should note that American Express is accepted far less widely than at home, and Diners Club only at the most highflying establishments. To be sure of your credit line, bring a Visa or MasterCard as well.

Many retailers ask for your 4-digit PIN to be entered into a keypad near the cash register. In restaurants, a server might bring a hand-held device to your table to authorize payment. If you’re visiting from a country (such as the U.S.), where Chip and PIN are less prevalent, some retailers may be reluctant to accept swipe cards. Be prepared to argue your case: Swipe cards are still valid and the same machines that read the smartcard chips can also read your magnetic strip. (Still, carry some cash with you, just in case.)

Passports -- See “Embassies & Consulates,” for whom to contact if you lose yours while traveling in Ireland. For country-specific information, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service (www.passports.gov.au; 131-232).

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (www.ppt.gc.ca; 800/567-6868).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs (www.passports.govt.nz; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/463-9360).

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service (www.gov.uk/government/organisations/hm-passport-office; 0300/222-0000).

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website (www.state.gov) or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (877/487-2778) for automated information.

Pharmacies -- Drugstores are called “chemists” and are found in every city, town, and most villages of any size.

Police -- In the Republic of Ireland, a law enforcement officer is called a Garda, a member of the Garda Síochána ("Guardian of the Peace"); in the plural, it's Gardaí (pronounced Gar-dee) or simply "the Guards." Dial 999 to reach the Gardaí in an emergency. Except for special detachments, Irish police are unarmed and wear dark blue uniforms. In Northern Ireland you can also reach the police by dialing 999.

Safety -- By U.S. standards, Ireland is very safe, but, particularly in the cities, it’s not safe enough to warrant carelessness. Be wary of the usual tourists’ plagues: pickpockets, purse snatchers, and car thieves. Do not leave cars unlocked or cameras and other expensive equipment unattended. Ask at your hotel which areas are safe and which are not. Take a taxi back to your hotel if you’re out very late.

In Northern Ireland, safety has to be a somewhat greater concern. Violence is no longer commonplace, and your visit here should be every bit as safe as in the rest of Ireland. However, occasional flare-ups do happen, especially during the Orange marching season in the late summer. Visitors rarely have problems with this because they are not the targets of unrest. Still, keep abreast of things by reading or watching the news.

Senior Travel -- In Ireland, seniors are referred to as “O.A.P.’s” (short for “Old Age Pensioners”). People over age 60 often qualify for reduced admission to museums and other attractions. Always ask about an O.A.P. discount if special rates aren’t posted. Discover Ireland  can offer advice on how to find the best discounts.

Smoking -- Ireland and Northern Ireland both have broad antismoking laws that ban smoking in all public places, including bars, restaurants, and hotel lobbies. However, most restaurants and pubs have covered outdoor smoking areas.

Taxes -- As in many European countries, sales tax (VAT, or value-added tax) is often already included in the price shown on price tags. In the Republic, VAT rates vary—for hotels, restaurants, and car rentals, it is 13.5%; for souvenirs and gifts, it is 23%. In Northern Ireland, the VAT is 20% across the board. VAT charged on services such as hotel stays, meals, car rentals, and entertainment cannot be refunded to visitors, but the VAT on products such as souvenirs is refundable. Save your receipts and present them at the Global Refund Desk when you get to the airport (they’re located airside in the main terminals at Dublin and Shannon; in Dublin the desk is now an automated kiosk, located on the left just after you pass the Starbucks on the way to the departure gates). They can usually issue you a refund there and then. Some larger stores can issue you a Global Refund form and refund your VAT themselves, although you’ll need to know your passport number, flight number, and departure time. In practice, this is usually much more fuss than it’s worth.

Telephones -- In the Republic, the telephone system is known as Eircom; in Northern Ireland, it's BT (British Telecom). Every effort has been made to ensure that the numbers and information in this guide were accurate at the time of writing.

Overseas calls from Ireland can be quite costly, whether you use a local phone card or your own calling card.

To call Ireland from home:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S., 00 from the U.K., 0011 from Australia, or 0170 from New Zealand.

2. Dial the country code: 353 for the Republic, 44 for the North.

3. Dial the local number, remembering to omit the initial 0, which is for use only within Ireland (for example, to call the County Kerry number 066/12345 from the United States, you’d dial 011-353-66/12345).

To make international calls from Ireland: First dial 00, then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and local number. For example, to call the U.S. number 212/000-0000 you’d dial 00-1-212/000-0000. The toll-free international access code for AT&T is 1-800-550-000; for Sprint it’s 1-800-552001; and for MCI it’s 1-800-551-001.

To make local calls: To dial a local number within the same area code, drop the initial 0. To dial a number within Ireland but in a different area code, use the initial 0.

As in many parts of the world, phone booths are slowly disappearing. Calls from a phone booth usually require coin payment, but at some you need a calling card (in the Republic) or phone card (in the North)—prepaid computerized cards that you insert into the phone instead of coins. They can be purchased in post offices, grocery stores, and shops (such as newsstands).

Time -- Ireland follows Greenwich Mean Time from November to March, and British Summer Time from April to October. Ireland is 5 hours ahead of the eastern United States. Ireland's latitude makes for longer days and shorter nights in the summer and the reverse in the winter. In June, the sun doesn’t fully set until around 11pm, but in December, it is dark by 4pm.

Tipping -- For taxi drivers, hairdressers, and other providers of service, tip an average of 10 to 15%. For restaurants, the policy is usually printed on the menu—either a gratuity of 10 to 15% is automatically added to your bill, or it’s left up to you. As a rule, bartenders do not expect a tip, except when table service is provided.

Toilets -- Public toilets are usually simply called "toilets" or are marked with international symbols. In the Republic of Ireland, some of the older ones carry the Gaelic words FIR (men) and MNA (women). Free restrooms are usually available to customers at sightseeing attractions, museums, hotels, restaurants, pubs, shops, and theaters. Many gas stations (called “petrol stations” in Ireland) have public toilets, and a few even have baby-changing facilities.

Visas -- Citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand entering the Republic of Ireland or Northern Ireland for a stay of up to 3 months do not need a visa, but a valid passport is required. For citizens of the United Kingdom, when traveling on flights originating in Britain, the same rules apply as they would for travel to any other member state of the European Union (E.U.).

Water -- Tap water throughout the island of Ireland is generally safe. However, some areas in the west of Ireland have been battling with out-of-date water-purification systems. Always carry a large bottle of water with you.

Wi-Fi -- See “Internet & Wi-Fi,” earlier in this section.

Women Travelers -- Women should expect few problems traveling in Ireland. You may attract a little attention if you eat alone in a restaurant at night—a sight that is still relatively uncommon in Ireland outside of the major cities—but you won’t be hassled. If you drink in a pub on your own, though, expect all kinds of attention—a woman drinking alone is still considered to be “on the market,” even if she’s reading a book, talking on her cellphone to her fiancé, or doing a crossword puzzle. So be prepared to fend them off. (Irish men almost always respond well to polite rejection, though.) Take a cab home at night and follow all the usual caution you use when you travel anywhere. Essentially, don’t do anything in Ireland that you wouldn’t do at home.

Tips for Women Travelers

Women should expect few if any problems traveling in Ireland. Women are accepted traveling alone or in groups in virtually every environment, and gone are the days when women were expected to order half-pints of beer in pubs, while men were allowed to order the bigger, more cost-effective pints of ale. In fact, the only time you're likely to attract any attention at all is if you eat alone in a restaurant at night -- a sight that is still relatively uncommon in Ireland outside of the major cities. Even then, you'll not be hassled.

If you drink in a pub on your own, though, expect all kinds of attention, as a woman drinking alone is still considered to be on the market -- even if she's reading a book, talking on her cellphone to her fiancé, or doing a crossword puzzle. So be prepared to fend them off. Irish men almost always respond well to polite rejection, though.

In cities, as ever, take a cab home at night, and follow all the usual advice of caution you get when you travel anywhere. Essentially, don't do anything in Ireland that you wouldn't do at home.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

See www.frommers.com/planning for current discussions and news about passports. For additional, country-specific information, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website (www.state.gov) or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand entering the Republic of Ireland or Northern Ireland for a stay of up to 3 months do not need a visa, but a valid passport is required.

For citizens of the United Kingdom, when traveling on flights originating in Britain, the same rules apply as they would for travel to any other member state of the European Union (E.U.).

For information about Irish Visas go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas." If you have any doubts about your eligibility, contact the Irish Embassy in your home country. A full list of countries who qualify for the Irish Visa waiver program can be found by going to www.citizensinformation.ie and clicking on "Travel and Recreation," "Travel to Ireland," then "Visas for Tourists Visiting Ireland."