Planning a trip to Israel

Tips for Women Travelers

For women travelers, Israel proper is not too different from Europe or the United States. Army service is universal for nonreligious Israelis, and many younger Israeli men may seem more macho and pressing than Europeans or Americans, but that's usually because you're a tourist and a woman—and all alone. Hebrew is a language that stylistically prefers directness over guile, and when translated into English, some Israelis may seem amazingly blunt, or at least brash.

It's important to remember to dress modestly when visiting holy places of Judaism, Islam, and Christianity, or ultra-Orthodox Jewish neighborhoods, such as Mea Shearim in West Jerusalem. In Mea Shearim, women should not wear trousers or jeans (shorts are forbidden there for men as well as women). At least knee-length skirts (the longer the better) and blouses that do not leave shoulders and upper arms exposed are strongly advised. The penalty for immodest dress can be getting spat on, pelted with pebbles, or worse. The police generally do not take action against religious Jews who attack immodest visitors to their neighborhoods.

East Jerusalem, the Old City of Jerusalem, the West Bank, Jordan, and Egypt are largely Arabic societies, and unless women travelers are guarded in their dress and behavior, there's a good chance there will be insults and unwanted advances. Women in Islamic societies do not venture far from their houses unless they are in the company of a husband, relatives, or at least one other woman; women travelers may seem to be breaking the rules of propriety simply by being alone. It is always best to try to have at least one traveling companion, male or female, with you if possible. Modest dress and behavior also helps to avoid unwanted attention. In Middle Eastern society, except in the all-tourist Sinai resorts, a woman alone, seen drinking in public, or walking on the streets with a bare midriff or shorts, is not respectable, and will often not receive even common courtesy.

For general travel resources for women, go to www.frommers.com.

Calendar of Events

January/February

Fast Facts

ATMs: ATMs are the fastest, easiest way to change money at the best rates. Look for ATMs adorned with international flag decals that accept foreign debit cards; you’ll often need a 4-digit PIN. There are fewer international ATMs in smaller towns and in the countryside, and ATMs may not be restocked during Shabbat or on Jewish holidays.

Area Codes: The telephone country code for Israel is 972. Telephone area codes are 02 for Jerusalem; 03 for Tel Aviv; 04 for Haifa, Caesarea, and the Galilee; 08 for Eilat, the Negev, The Dead Sea, and Rehovot; 09 for Netanya.

Bugs & Wildlife: Scorpions are always something to be aware of in desert and Mediterranean regions. If bitten by a scorpion, get emergency medical treatment immediately. Scorpions do not go out of their way to attack, but they love damp, warm places, and you can get bitten if you happen to put a hand or foot where one of them is resting. Check carefully when entering showers, bathrooms, or other damp places. Always shake out towels at the beach or pool before drying yourself; shake out shoes and socks before putting them on. If you’re staying in simple places in the desert, shake out your sheets before getting into bed. Orange groves may look inviting, but big, mean snakes think so, too; avoid the temptation to stroll or picnic in them. In the Jordan Valley, there is a rare but very ugly skin infection called “Rose of Sharon” that’s hard to control and will scar unless you get medical treatment—don’t hesitate to see a doctor about any unusual or persistent bug bites or skin eruptions.

There is rabies in the countryside, and wild animals should be avoided. Keep away from stray dogs and cats, no matter how friendly or hungry they may seem.

When snorkeling or diving in the Red Sea, remember that many coral formations are not only sharp, but can burn. It is illegal to touch or walk on any coral—not only for your safety, but for the protection of the coral, which can be easily broken and killed. Spiny sea urchins, covering the underwater floor in many parts of the Red Sea, are the bane of swimmers and snorkelers. It’s best to wear foot coverings and try to avoid stepping anywhere near a sea urchin—and note that it’s very easy for a wave or current to glide you right onto one. Study photo charts of fish before snorkeling, and memorize those that are poisonous to touch, especially the stonefish or rockfish, with their billowing, diaphanous fins that appear to be so delicate. From June through August, stinging and burning jellyfish plague Israel’s Mediterranean waters. Do no swim on days when there is evidence of jellyfish on the beaches.

Disabled Travelers: Inside Israel, there’s been an ongoing effort to provide access for visitors with disabilities—even at sites famed for their inaccessibility, such as Masada. Atop the dramatic plateau of Masada, a network of wheelchair-accessible pathways was completed in 2000. At least some trails in a number of Israel’s national parks and nature reserves (www.parks.org.il) have also been made wheelchair-accessible.

Accessibility Assistance

Yad Sarah is Israel’s largest volunteer organization. It lends medical equipment, crutches, and wheelchairs; arranges airport and intercity transportation; helps prepare and equip hotel rooms for special needs; and offers advice for travelers to Israel with special needs. All services are free, although deposits are required for equipment. Advance planning and reservations are required to get the most help from Yad Sarah, but it’s also a great resource for sudden or last-minute emergencies.

Doctors: Most Israeli doctors speak English. Your hotel can refer you to an appropriate physician or the nearest Magen David Adom (Red Star of David, Israeli equivalent of the Red Cross) emergency station.

Drinking Laws: The legal age for purchase of alcoholic beverages is 18; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it’s always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. Alcohol is forbidden and considered abhorrent by traditional followers of Islam and so is generally not available in Arabic communities inside Israel or in Jordan or the West Bank except at hotels for tourists.

Health Concerns: Sunburn and dehydration are problems throughout the region, but especially in the desert during summer. Although the air is dry, paradoxically, you often don’t feel thirsty. Force yourself to drink a minimum of four 1.5-liter bottles of water a day as you travel the area in summer, more if you are in the desert. Sunscreen is a must, though you need less of it at The Dead Sea because the thicker atmosphere screens out the sun.

Money & Costs: Currency rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Currency: The basic unit of currency is the New Israel Shekel (NIS).

Passports: It is important to check that you have at least 6 months left before your passport’s expiration; without that cushion, you won’t be allowed into the country.

Pharmacies: Pharmacies are well-stocked, and you’ll encounter many international name brands, but drug prices outside of Israeli insurance plans—even for nonprescription medicines—are comparatively high.

Police: Dial 100.

Safety: Israel is a low-crime country. Some of the major dangers you will encounter are car-related. Israeli drivers aren’t renowned for sound driving practices. Blatant tailgating is the unnerving way of life here. Car theft and theft of belongings from rental cars is also a problem. Some rental-car companies require you to use a steering wheel lock, and it is never a good idea to leave valuables in your car.

When traveling in Jordan or in East Jerusalem and Arab cities inside Israel, travelers should not carry or drink alcohol (which is forbidden by Islam) in public, and modest dress is expected of both men and women. Women traveling alone must realize they are visiting Muslim societies, and the fact of being unaccompanied by a man can be regarded as suspicious and provocative. Extremely modest dress is essential.

Security: Terrorism is a consideration everywhere in the world, and Israelis have become experts in dealing with it. Despite the news of the past few years, the chance is actually greater that you’ll be involved in a traffic mishap while in Israel. In Jerusalem, security guards now prowl the bus stops, checking and intercepting suspicious-looking people before they can board a bus. Guards conduct bag and body checks at the entrances to shopping malls, markets, shops, cafes, restaurants, transportation hubs, and hotels. You’ll find security guards at most major restaurants. Always keep alert and be aware of suspicious persons, especially if they are well bundled in coats or jackets when the weather is not cold.

Note: Get away from and immediately report any suspicious or unattended bags or packages! Any Israeli will know how to summon the police.

Senior Travel: Mention the fact that you’re a senior when you make your travel reservations. Some Israeli hotels, especially those in international chains, still offer lower rates for seniors, especially during off season.

Smoking: Smoking is against the law in all public places, including restaurants, trains, buses, and taxis.

Student Travel: Israel is a student-friendly country. There are all kinds of student flights and discount airfares to Israel, and if you’re from a Jewish-American family, you may even be eligible for a free trip to Israel under the Birthright (Taglit) Program, which provides the gift of first-time, peer-group, educational tours of Israel (airfare included) to Jewish adults ages 18 to 32. More than 40,000 people have taken advantage of this program, which is designed to encourage Jewish identity and connection with the State of Israel (waiting lists are long).

Even for independent travelers, there are discounts for students at museums, national parks, and railroads, although train discounts are minimal. Check out the website for the International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings.

Taxes: There is a value-added tax (VAT) of 17%. This does not apply to Eilat, which is a tax-free zone. Unless otherwise noted on the price tag, all prices automatically include the VAT. Hotel bills (including food and services charged to your room) are not subject to the VAT if you are a tourist.

Telephones: The country code for Israel is 972.

Time: Israel is 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, 7 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time, and 10 hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time. When it’s 7pm in Israel, it’s noon in New York.

Daylight Savings Time Warning: Because Israel has its own unique dates for going on and off daylight saving time, there is often a period of 1 or 2 weeks in the spring and a month in September or October when there’s only a 1-hour difference between Israel and Greenwich Mean Time and a 6-hour time difference between New York and Israel. Palestinian areas, Jordan, and Egypt keep to their own dates for daylight saving time, and those areas of the West Bank not under direct Israeli control also keep to Egyptian/Jordanian time. This can make border crossings a disaster if both countries are not synchronized. Jordan, Palestinian areas, and Egypt are normally 7 hours ahead of New York time, and 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. In the past, because of religious and political considerations, the decision about when to begin and end Israeli daylight saving time has sometimes not been made until the last minute. For this reason, it is very important to reconfirm schedules at these times of year—you could miss your flight, or worse.

Tipping: Tip 10–15% in restaurants or cafes, unless a service charge is already added to your bill. Taxi drivers do not expect tips unless they have helped you load or carry luggage. An extra NIS 5 per bag is fair. Leave NIS 5–10 per person per day for your hotel maid, more if you got extra help.

Toilets: In Israel, public toilets on the street are rare to nonexistent. Try hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons. In each quarter of Jerusalem’s Old City, there are scattered public restrooms, marked w.c., a tradition from British Mandate times.

Visas: Visitors from most English-speaking countries will receive a visa for Israel on the spot at Ben-Gurion Airport or at any land border crossing. There is no charge for the visa, however, there is an exit fee if you leave via a land crossing into Jordan.

The governments of most Western countries have advised their citizens NOT to travel to the West Bank, which includes Nablus, Ramallah, Jericho, and Bethlehem; however, depending on day-to-day political conditions, many travelers do take pilgrimage or group tours to visit Christian holy places in Bethlehem.

Travelers with Arabic-sounding surnames may also be stopped for questioning. There are some cases of travelers being turned back at the border for reasons of security or without further explanation. Such travelers are not compensated for plane tickets or for canceled hotel reservations. Unfortunately, Israel has no provision for pre-clearance visa interviews before visitors embark on their journeys.

Water: Tap water is safe and drinkable in Israel, except at The Dead Sea. There, even luxury hotels have special taps on each floor that provide drinking water. Although Israeli water is safe, the presence of various minerals in the water may make you a bit queasy. For this reason, bottled water could be a good investment, though in small amounts and for brushing your teeth, local water is fine.

Women Travelers: It’s important to remember to dress modestly when visiting holy places or ultra-Orthodox Jewish neighborhoods. The Jerusalem and Tel Aviv suburbs of Beit Shemesh and B’nai Brak should also be avoided unless you dress with extreme modesty.

East Jerusalem, the Old City of Jerusalem, and the West Bank are largely Arabic societies, and unless women travelers are guarded in their dress and behavior, there’s a good chance there will be insults and unwanted advances. Women in traditional Islamic societies do not venture far from their houses unless they are in the company of a husband, relatives, or at least one other woman; women travelers may seem to be breaking the rules of propriety simply by being alone. It is always best to try to have at least one traveling companion, male or female, with you if possible. Modest dress and behavior also helps to avoid unwanted attention.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

In Israel, the enormously active and inventive Society for Protection of Nature in Israel, or SPNI (www.natureisrael.org), sponsors projects that protect the environment and promote awareness of threats to the natural beauty of the county, the urban landscape, and the ecological balance of the region. SPNI offers a program of superb walks, hikes, tours, 1-day to weeklong trips, and lectures about issues of conservation. Most tours are in Hebrew, but this is a very English-friendly organization with an English-language affiliate, the American friends of SPNI (natureisrael.org/aspni).

The Jewish Coalition for Service (www.ivolunteer.org.il) can plug you into many projects in Israel (you don't have to be Jewish).

Eco-Tourism

Israel has a number of collective and cooperative (kibbutz and moshav) communities that practice organic farming, recycling, and host programs in eco-tourism. Kibbutz Lotan (kibbutzlotan.com), in the dramatic Arava Valley (Southern Negev), is a kibbutz founded in the 1980s by American immigrants to Israel who have taken the lead in showing Israelis how to create environmentally gentle, sustainable desert communities, organic farming, and exciting architecture based on natural and recycled materials. Lotan, together with neighboring kibbutzim Yahel and Ketura, has set up programs of desert eco-study, eco-hikes, birding, meditation, relaxation, and massage that are truly excellent, especially in tandem with the chance to live in and observe these communities; the Arava Institute (arava.org) offers information. Succah in the Desert (www.succah.co.il), in the central Negev highlands just outside Mitzpe Ramon, is one of the few eco-accommodations in Israel—it is very simple but has charm and mystique. Also in Mitzpe Ramon, the Isrotel Ramon Inn (www.isrotel.co.il) is one of Israel's environmentally friendly major hotels. The organic farming community of Klil, near the northwestern border of Israel, is filled with artists and craftspeople who have built unusual homes and studios. It also hosts a ceramics workshop that helps preserve and encourage the artistry of traditional Ethiopian Jewish potters.

In Jordan, the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (www.rscn.org.jo) maintains a careful network of nature reserves and a sustainable tourism base among the tribal people of the magnificent, wild Dana Nature Reserve.

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are eco-tourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines eco-tourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment, sustains the well-being of the local people, and involves interpretation and education. TIES suggests that eco-tourists follow these principles:

• Minimize physical, social, behavioral, and psychological impacts.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation.
• Generate financial benefits for both local people and private industry.
• Deliver memorable interpretative experiences to visitors that help raise sensitivity to host countries’ political, environmental, and social climates.
• Design, construct and operate low-impact facilities.
• Recognize the rights and spiritual beliefs of the Indigenous People in your community and work in partnership with them to create empowerment.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations—listed by destination under "Travel Choice"—at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org.

While much of the focus of eco-tourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravel.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills—just a willingness to work hard—and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly.

For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.idealist.org. Specific volunteer options in Israel are listed above, and under "Special-Interest Trips," below.

Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you're giving is truly going back to the local community, and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. International Volunteer Programs Association (IVPA) (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.

Animal-Rights Issues

For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit the Tread Lightly website at www.treadlightly.org. For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society website at us.whales.org.

Green Dining

A relatively new organization in Israel has begun to issue the Tav Chevrati Seal of Social Justice to restaurants that treat workers fairly and provide careful, personal assistance to customers with disabilities. In Jerusalem, restaurants listed in this book that have received the Tav Chevrati Seal include Keshet, in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City; Joy Grill, Coffee Mill, and 1868 Café in the German Colony; Eldad Vesayhoo, Aroma, Babette's Waffles, Darna, Dr Lek's Ice Cream, Eucalyptus, Marakiyah, Village Green, Little Jerusalem at Ticho House, La Guta, Moshiko's Falafel and Shwarma, and Chakra in Downtown Jerusalem; and Orna and Ella, and Gordon Inn Pub in Tel Aviv.

Special-Interest Vacations

Escorted Tours, Packages & Trails

Israel is an unusual destination in that there are many major Jewish and Christian organizations that sponsor group tours and missions to the Holy Land. It’s always worthwhile to check with your synagogue or church as to what organized group tours they can direct you to. These package tours have the added advantage of zeroing in on sites and events that are of special interest to people who share your traditions and background.

HIKING & NATURE TRIPS

The Society for Protection of Nature in Israel (http://natureisrael.org), known as SPNI, offers a wide range of excellent nature and camping hikes and tours throughout Israel and beyond. Most tours are in Hebrew, but the guides are among the best in the business, and are generally fluent in English (as are most Israeli participants), so English speakers will not be left out. SPNI offers some tours in English.

Israel National Trail (www.israeltrail.net) is a planned, self-guided, 1,100km (683-mile) network of hiking routes and paths that run from the northern tip of Israel to the shores of the Red Sea and take you through places of natural beauty, historic sites, and a broad range of Israel’s many ethnic and religious communities. This is a wonderful resource and great for planning local hiking as well.

Jesus Trail (www.jesustrail.com) is a carefully planned program of walks and hikes through the area between Nazareth and Capernaum, through the areas that Jesus would have known.

Desert Eco Tours (www.desertecotours.com) offers tours and camping trips in the Negev desert, Eilat mountains and Jordan’s Wadi Musa and Petra National Park.

BIKING TOURS & HOLIDAYS

Jerusalem Biking Tours (www.jerusalembiking.com) offers inventive guided bike tours of Jerusalem’s new and old cities. Specially scheduled group tours can sometimes be arranged. Highly recommended.

CMBC, the Carmel Mountain Bike Club, is a group of Haifa-area cycling enthusiasts, including Jon Lipman, who maintain a detailed English-language website and will be happy to share advice and infor on activities, bike rides, and tours.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL DIGS
You can volunteer to work at an archaeological dig if you are 18 or older, prepared to stay for at least 2 weeks, and capable of doing strenuous work in a hot climate. You will have to pay your own fare to and from Israel. Most excavations take place between June and October, but there are off-season digs. Lectures are given at some sites, and some offer academic credit for the work. If you’d like to join a dig, it’s best to inquire as far in advance as possible.

The best summary of current digs is found each year in the January/February issue of the magazine Biblical Archaeology Review, available at many libraries and newsdealers. Biblical Archaeology Review’s listings include exactly whom to contact for information about joining each specific dig, as well as estimates on expenses for volunteers and a description of each dig’s recent finds. The Israel Ministry of Tourism North American Info Center (info.goisrael.com) will also give you general, updated information about finding a suitable dig.

The Biblical Archaeology Society (tel. 800/221-4644; www.biblicalarchaeology.org), which publishes the Biblical Archaeology Review, organizes archaeology-based study tours of Israel and the surrounding region.

FOOD & WINE TRIPS

EatWith (www.eatwith.com) lets travelers connect with real Israelis and share a meal in their homes. A constantly changing group of host cooks is listed and the specialties of the house are explained, ranging from a simple vegetarian meal in a grad student’s apartment ($12) to a homecooked meal with a local foodie ($45 per person).

VOLUNTEER TRIPS

Volunteers for Israel (www.vfi-usa.org), arranges volunteer support positions in both civilian and military organizations in Israel. Assignments may include hospital work, repair work, and KP duty with noncombat sectors of the Israeli military. Application to this program requires a nonrefundable $125 fee.

SAR-EL NATIONAL PROJECT FOR VOLUNTEERS FOR ISRAEL—The Sar-El project offers eligible individuals the chance to volunteer on a short-term basis for the IDF (Israel Defense Forces). The most popular programs run from approximately 1 to 2 weeks and during that time volunteers stay on an Israeli army base which could be located anywhere in the country and perform basic volunteer work to help with the life of the base. You’ll interact not just with fellow volunteers but real Israelis doing their mandatory military service, making this, in our view, one of the more rewarding Israel volunteer programs. For details on how to apply visit www.sar-el.org.

SPECIAL PROGRAMS

PLANT A TREE—If you’d like to plant a tree in Israel with your own hands, contact the Jewish National Fund (usa.jnf.org/jnf-tree-planting-center/) or www.treesfortheholyland.com for more information. The cost per tree is $18.

JEWISH-ARAB DIALOGUE PROGRAMS—One out of every five Israeli citizens living inside the pre-1967 boundaries of Israel is Arab. There are a growing number of dialogue and intercultural-understanding projects inside Israel for Israeli Arabs and Jews. You will often find Israelis from English-speaking countries, armed with democratic traditions and experience living in multicultural societies at the forefront of these projects. Visitors to Israel may observe these organizations and participate in lectures and tours that illuminate the problems and possibilities that exist for dialogue and understanding. Short-term volunteering is also doable. This can be a good way to encounter one of the most hopeful sides of Israeli society.

Visitor Information

The Israel Ministry of Tourism maintains Israel Government Tourist Offices (IGTOs) in a number of countries throughout the world. The Ministry of Tourism's website has country-specific information for citizens of the U.S. and Commonwealth countries, as well as for many European countries. It also offers information about maps, special events in Israel, a schedule of conferences and conventions, information about tour groups, and special deals and advice for prospective visitors to Israel. On this website you'll also find the current rates of exchange vis-à-vis the new Israeli shekel.

For additional lively and very useful information, readers in the United States and Canada can contact the Israel Government Tourism Office (IGTO) North American Information Center (tel. 888/77-ISRAEL [477235]; www.goisrael.com). U.S. offices are at 6380 Wilshire Blvd., Ste. 1718, Los Angeles, CA 90048 (tel. 323/658-7463), and 800 Second Ave., New York, NY 10117 (tel. 212/499-5650).

The Jordan Tourism Board's official website is one of the most efficient in the Middle East.

When to Go

Climate

Israeli has two seasons: winter (late Oct to mid-Mar), which is cool to cold and when the rains occur, and summer (Apr–Oct), which is warm to hot and virtually rain-free. Winter in Israel starts with showers in October and advances to periodic heavy rainfall from November to March. Swimming is out in the Mediterranean during this time, except during occasional heat waves, although at times you can swim in Eilat and the Dead Sea in the winter. The Israeli winter doesn’t normally involve snow, except for on Mount Hermon on the Golan Heights.

During February and the beginning of March, the entire country turns green from the winter rains, and wildflower displays in the Galilee and Golan regions are truly spectacular. By late March, the flowers and the green fade. In the months that follow, the heat gathers intensity, reaching its peak in July and August. By September

Israel also experiences hot, dry desert winds at the beginning and end of the summer, although a hamsin can occur anytime from March to November. A hamsin (or sharav) heat wave means you must cut back on rushing around: Plan to be in air-conditioned museums, in the shadowy depths of a bazaar, or in the water during midday, and make sure you increase your water intake.

In winter, cold rain systems move in from the north. Because they are prevented from continuing south by the constant tropical highs over Africa, these storms can stall over Israel for days until they rain themselves out. Lots of warm socks, layered clothes (including a fleece liner), and a good raincoat and portable umbrella are necessary.

Israel's Calendar(s)

Israel “officially” operates on two separate systems for determining day, month, and year: the Jewish calendar, dating from some 5,750 years ago, and the Gregorian calendar, used in most countries. Recognized, but “unofficial,” are even more calendars, such as the Julian (Julius Caesar) calendar, which runs 13 days behind the Gregorian; and the Muslim era, which counts the years from a.d. 622, when the Prophet Muhammad led the Hegira from Mecca to Medina. These calendars disagree not only about dates but also about whether time is measured by the sun, the moon, or a combination of the two and when the year should start and end. (We know of at least three Christmases in Israel.)

The Weekly Holiday Schedule

Israel is a confusing place when it comes to the weekly holiday schedule. Jews stop work at midafternoon on Friday; some Muslims stop at sundown on Thursday (although many shops remain open on Fri); most Christians are off all day on Sunday. In Tel Aviv, no buses run from late Friday afternoon until Saturday after sundown, although small private minibuses cover some of the main routes. In Jerusalem, buses run only in the Arab neighborhoods on Saturday; in Haifa, there’s partial bus service on Saturday. In Eilat, there is no public transport on Shabbat. Throughout the country, some shops open just as others are closing for a holiday.

On Saturday, almost all shops throughout the country are closed (except in Israel’s Arab communities, including cafes and Arab or Christian establishments in Jerusalem’s Old City), as are nearly all transportation stops (only Haifa has limited municipal bus service at this time, and only taxis or small sherut companies operate in or between cities). Gas stations are mostly open on Shabbat, because few are located in religious neighborhoods. Most admission-free museums are ordinarily open for part of Shabbat; entrance tickets, when required, must sometimes be bought from private-duty guards outside the museum entrance. Precise hours for the duration of Shabbat, which vary according to the time of sunset, are listed in the Friday “Jerusalem Post.”

There is a growing list of exceptions: In Tel Aviv, many restaurants, cafes, discos, and theaters close on Friday afternoon for a few hours but reopen on Friday night; Haifa has always had a quiet alternative Friday nightlife; and in Jerusalem, a number of cinemas and nonkosher restaurants remain open; recently the pub area around Jerusalem’s Russian Compound has begun to boom, and Friday nights are busy.

Most Israelis are not Sabbath-observant and love to travel on their day off, so if you drive on Saturday, you’ll find the roads to beaches and parks quite busy. About the only people who will try to stop you are the ultrareligious Jews. Many streets in religious areas are blocked with boulders; most ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods in Jerusalem and Bnei Brak, near Tel Aviv, have official permission to close their streets to traffic. Don’t even think of trying to drive in such areas—you can be stoned and your vehicle damaged, and you will have no help from the police.

Holidays

If awards were given for having the maximum number of holidays a year, Israel would win. Israeli holidays will affect your visit in several important ways. First, hotels and campsites fill to capacity, and rates rise by as much as 20 percent. Next, transportation and restaurant service may be curtailed or completely suspended, and places of entertainment may be closed. On the other hand, a holiday is a special occasion, and you won’t want to miss the events that may take place. To keep your wits amid all these openings and closings read the following information carefully.

Money

Currency

The basic unit of currency is the New Israel Shekel (NIS).

Exchange counters at Ben Gurion Airport generally offer poor rates of exchange. ATMs give standard rates.

ATMs

International ATM debit cards will only work at Israeli ATMs specifically marked to accept them. These machines usually have decals for PLUS, Cirrus, Visa, MasterCard, or international flags on them. In Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, these ATMs are easy to find in heavily touristed areas, but in other cities they are few and far between, so stock up on shekels while you can. You can use your credit card to receive cash advances at ATMs. Keep in mind that credit card companies protect themselves from theft by limiting maximum withdrawals outside their home countries, so call your credit card company before you leave home. And keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time.

Check with your bank as to whether your card will function in Israel. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Keeping Flush -- Don't wait until you're down to your last shekel if you're using ATMs to keep yourself funded. International ATM connections sometimes go down, and Israeli banks have a way of having sudden 1-day wildcat strikes. Remember that ATMs will not be restocked during Shabbat, and there's usually a run on ATMs on Friday, so stock up before the Israeli weekend or holidays.

Small Change -- When you change money, ask for some small bills or loose change. Petty cash will come in handy for tipping and public transportation and taxis (Israeli taxi drivers never seem to have change when a foreigner tries to pay). Consider keeping the change separate from your larger bills so that it's readily accessible and you'll be less of a target for theft.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are a relatively safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances using your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks assess a "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

Staying Connected

Cellphones

In order to decide what kind of cellphone option you need, you have to think about how you plan to use your phone. If you want to mainly keep in touch with your family at home, you might want to rent a phone that will work in Israel but see if it can be set up with a number in your local home calling area, so calls to and from your family will be local. In the U.S., a company such as Talk'n'Save (www.talknsave.net) can do this for you.

Amigo (www.amigo-us.com) is another company that will rent a phone to you that is ready to go for use in Israel—no worries about compatibility with SIM cards or installing them. Amigo's rates are $2 per day and calls from Israel to the U.S. are 14¢ per minute. They'll ship your phone to you before you leave for Israel, and you ship it back to them on your return. For a phone user calling the States daily and making only a few calls inside Israel, the cost, including shipping, could be around $75 for a 2-week rental. Most companies offer repair service in Israel, though not on Shabbat.

Many travelers find arranging for a phone to be delivered in advance is easier than buying or renting or trying to add a SIM card when you arrive at Ben-Gurion Airport, exhausted, jet-lagged, and in a line at a cellphone counter behind 20 other arriving passengers. If you plan to visit Israel for multiple visits or a long period of time, buying a phone is an option; comparison shop.

Cellular Abroad (www.cellularabroad.com) rents cellphones for many overseas destinations. They have multiple-country packages that could allow you to use your phone on excursions to Jordan and Sinai.

At the main Arrivals Concourse at Ben-Gurion Airport after picking up your baggage and clearing Customs, you'll see the Telecommunications Center, where all major mobile and satellite phone providers have desks. You probably won't be in shape to do comparative cellphone rental shopping after a 12-hour flight, so advance planning is useful. Cellcom (www.cellcom.co.il) is the largest provider in the country, followed by Pelephone (www.pelephone.co.il) and Partner (www.partner.co.il).

Another possibility is Israel Phones (www.israelphones.com). Daily rates (subject to change) are approximately $1 (50p) a day with an optional additional charge for insurance. Note: In the Jordan Valley and The Dead Sea area, which are the lowest points on earth and far below sea level, cellphone communications are not usually optimum.

Voice-Over Internet Protocol (VOIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, voice-over Internet protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allows you to make free international calls from your laptop or from a cybercafe. Neither service requires the people you're calling to also have that service (though there are fees if they do not). Check the websites for details.

Internet & Email

With Your Own Computer—Downtown West Jerusalem from the post office on Jaffa Road to the Ben-Yehuda Mall, up to King George Street, and the adjacent Yoel Salomon, Rivlin Street and Jerusalem Courtyard neighborhoods are Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) access zones: Cafes and restaurants are filled with locals and travelers communing with their computers. Large areas of downtown Tel Aviv and Haifa are Wi-Fi access zones.

In addition, many hotels, cafes, and retailers are providing Wi-Fi zones where you can get high-speed connection without cable wires, networking hardware, or a phone line . For dial-up access, most business-class hotels throughout the world offer dataports for laptop modems, and a few thousand hotels in the U.S. and Europe now offer free high-speed Internet access. In addition, major Internet service providers (ISPs) have local access numbers around the world, allowing you to go online by placing a local call.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable—or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Note: In Israel you will need an adapter addition for your computer's electric plug that will match up with Israel's round-hole electric sockets. Most small appliances will operate on a two-prong adapter plug, but some appliances and some Israeli electrical outlets require three prongs. For Jordan and Sinai, it's a good idea to have both a two- and a three-round-prong adapter. Many hotels will lend them out, or you can buy one for under a dollar at most electric appliance or hardware stores. Electric current in Israel is 220 volts—make sure you have an automatic internal current adapter or an external adapter designed especially for your computer or it will get fried.

Without Your Own Computer—It's hard nowadays to find a city in Israel that doesn't have a few cybercafes. The Jaffa Road/Ben-Yehuda Mall area of downtown Jerusalem and lower Ben-Yehuda Street in Tel Aviv, near the main Tel Aviv hotel district, are well stocked with Internet cafes and centers. Even amid the labyrinths of the Old City of Jerusalem, there's Mike's Center, Suq Khan es Zeit Street (the main road from the Damascus Gate southward)—Mike's is located above the Abu Assab Carot and Orange Juice Shop and offers private booths (air-conditioned in summer) for you to work in.

Aside from formal cybercafes, most hotels and hostels have at least one computer with Internet access. Rates will not be great, but at the end of a long day, the convenience could be worth the price. Avoid hotel business centers unless you're willing to pay exorbitant rates.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

All travelers entering Israel, Jordan, or Sinai must present a valid passport with an expiration date not less than 6 months from the date of entry into those countries. Travelers from western Europe, Canada, the U.S., Australia, and South Africa will receive a visa upon entering Israel. Visas for Israel are usually given for 3 months and can be renewed inside Israel at the Ministry of Interior in Jerusalem.

Watch That Stamp! If you plan to visit Arab countries, ask for your visa stamp to be placed on a piece of paper separate from your passport when you enter Israel (if your passport is stamped by Israel, that stamp will close the doors to many Arab and Islamic countries for the duration of your passport). Israeli passport control personnel are accustomed to this request and in most cases will cooperate, but an occasional ill-tempered clerk may decide to make extra problems for you by stamping your passport. With political conditions the way they are, even in relatively friendly places such as Morocco, Egypt, or even Bali (a Hindu island in Muslim Indonesia), Israeli stamps in your passport could cause problems should you find yourself in a local police station, or when you show your passport in banks, hotels, or post offices.

Visas

Visas are given free to U.S., U.K., and Canadian citizens, without prior application, when they enter Israel at Ben-Gurion or Eilat International airports and show passports that are valid for at least 6 months beyond the time of arrival. The tourist visa is good for 3 months and can be extended for another 3 consecutive months at any office of the Ministry of the Interior (you may be asked to prove you have adequate funding for your extended stay). If you enter Israel at an overland crossing from either Egypt (Sinai) or Jordan, you may receive a visa valid only for 30 days.

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry.

Customs

Note that you cannot take antiquities or archaeological artifacts out of Israel unless you have a certificate identifying the object, which will be provided to you by any licensed antiquities dealer.

Tips on Dining

Israel used to be a practical, early-to-bed and early-to-rise country, but in Tel Aviv, and increasingly elsewhere, late dining has become the trend. For travelers who want to get an early start in the morning, or want to take in an evening performance, Israel has become the land of the luncheon special—in many restaurants, the fabulous weekday lunch specials last until 5pm, or even later! Once the lunch deadline passes, the cost of a meal can double or even triple!

For those in a rush, or on a tight budget, the local falafel and shwarma sandwiches, stuffed breads, and the Iraqi-style sabbiyah are healthy and filling. In general, tip waitstaff 10% unless a service charge has already been added to the bill. When paying by credit card, leave the tip in cash so it can be picked up directly by your server.

Nonsmokers should be aware of the fact that lighting up is not nearly as frowned upon in Israel as it is in North America. This practice is gradually changing, but some restaurants may not even have a nonsmoking section.

If you have a hotel room with a fridge and keep kosher, or just want to have some food for Friday and Saturday, plan to shop for supplies on Friday, as shops and supermarkets will be closed for the Sabbath. A selection of nonkosher restaurants in big cities will stay open on the Sabbath.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Israel has come a long way since the 1980s, when laws regarding homosexual activity were removed from the books. A decision by the government to award pensions of deceased military officers to their surviving partners, regardless of sex or of marital status, was a landmark in changing attitudes. The LGBTQ scene is especially robust in Tel Aviv, which Out magazine once dubbed the "most gay-friendly city in the Middle East" (this may seem faint praise, but Tel Aviv is mellow by most world standards). A score of bars, cafes, and clubs offer a constantly changing calendar of theme nights and parties. Tel Aviv and the more conservative Jerusalem both host official gay pride parades. Eilat, somewhat like Tel Aviv, has developed a general attitude of tolerance; mild-mannered Haifa stands somewhere between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem.

In Jerusalem, things are quieter but opening up. There is a very active place called Open House at 2 Ha Soreg St., 2nd floor (tel. 02/625-0502); Ha Soreg Street is 2 blocks east of Zion Square off Jaffa Road.

Note that in the Palestinian/Arabic communities throughout Israel, and in East Jerusalem, the West Bank, Jordan, and Egypt, any kind of openly gay or lesbian behavior is completely forbidden both by custom and by law. Extreme caution and the lowest possible profile are advised. Similar discretion must be observed in the Jewish ultrareligious and Hassidic neighborhoods of Jerusalem north of Jaffa Road (such as Mea Shearim); in the Old City of Jerusalem; in Safed, which has a largely religious population; and in small, less-touristed Israeli towns where the character of the population may not be clear.

Tips on Accommodations

You’ll find a wide range of accommodations in Israel, ranging from hotels to kibbutz vacation guesthouses to great hostels and self-catering apartments.

A Note About the Seasons

Israel’s hotels fill up during certain seasons and holidays, and you should be prepared with advanced reservations, secured by a deposit. Generally speaking, hotels are busiest during July and August, and on the major Jewish and Christian holidays. Rates skyrocket during these times, and rooms can be very scarce if you don’t book well in advance.

Off-season is generally November through February (except for Chanukah/Christmas/New Year’s). It is, however, a busy season in Eilat, which has almost perfect, sunny weather when it’s chilly up north.

Hotels

KIBBUTZ PACKAGES—The Kibbutz Hotels network is especially enticing. It lets you explore the real Israeli countryside while overnighting at comfortable kibbutz hotels, holiday villages, and less-pricey guesthouses and country accommodations that have swimming pools or beaches, and invariably lovely and often very dramatic settings. There are amazingly well-priced 7-night deals, which include a double room, breakfast, and sometimes a rental car.

Although all accommodations in the kibbutz hotel and holiday village network are the equivalent of those you’d find in midrange hotels, you’ll find great variety in the general setup and character of each facility. The kibbutz system also includes many less expensive Kibbutz Country Lodgings, a growing network of smaller kibbutz and moshav communities that run simple guest buildings, or kibbutz families who have guest-room facilities in their homes. Rates for Country Lodgings average $170 per night for a double room with a private bathroom. Best of all, you get a chance to see a bit of real kibbutz life.

Independent Bed & Breakfasts & “Zimmers”—Hundreds of rural accommodations in private homes, ranging from simple to luxurious, are available for tourists today. For a listing of good choices, go to www.zimmeril.com.

For bed-and-breakfast accommodations in Jerusalem and apartments Tel Aviv, try such international sites as AirBnB.com, Homeaway.com and FlipKey.com.

At tourist information offices in Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, and many other Israeli cities, you can use a computer bank to access lists of accommodations in private homes for any area in the country. Ask the staff at the tourist information office for recommendations. For summers, weekends, and holidays, reserve ahead.

Youth Hostels—Israel’s wonderful network of official Israel Youth Hostel Association Hostels, or IYHA Hostels (tel. 1-599/510-511; www.iyha.org.il/en) offers simple, inexpensive accommodations in many dramatic sites throughout the country. IYHA hostels often offer the only available accommodations in remote areas of the country, or in areas along hiking routes.

Many IYHA hostels are in sleek new buildings set up with a maximum of four to six beds per room. A large percentage of these rooms have private shower/bathrooms and can easily be converted into private doubles or family rooms. Dining facilities now offer meals far superior to the once-spartan youth-hostel fare.

Age is no barrier to staying at an IYHA Hostel nor is membership. Having a youth-hostel membership card, however, does give you certain advantages, such as better rates at the hostels, plus discounts at some restaurants, national parks, historical sites, museums, and on buses and trains. It is advisable to book in advance.

Israel Hostels, or ILH (www.hostels-israel.com), is an independent network of more than 30 interesting, independent hostels, inexpensive hotels, B&Bs, kibbutz guesthouses, and other unusual, inexpensive places to stay throughout Israel. The managements are almost always friendly, enthusiastic, well-informed, and offer personal attention. Highly recommended!

Great Guesthouses

Israel is unique in that many Christian guesthouses that were originally set up for pilgrims have developed into wonderful options for travelers and most welcome guests of all faiths. Some of the best of these guesthouses are listed in detail in this guidebook, and many other excellent choices may be found on the Christian Information Centre website (www.cicts.org). These are among the most atmospheric and unusual accommodations in Israel, often set in historic buildings and enclaves. Rates are very reasonable; rooms are comfortable but simple; atmosphere is quiet; and the staff members are almost always polite.

Tips for Families

Frommer's Israel has, as a member of its research team, a savvy 6-year-old trilingual Jerusalemite named Lyne, who has explored the country with me endlessly since she was 4 weeks old. She has included some of her favorite places and things in our Suggested Itinerary for Families (she insisted on omitting some of her favorite places, such as the Tisch Family Zoo in Jerusalem, where she accidentally fed my hat to a giraffe with traumatic consequences).

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations. Although most major airlines have canceled their senior discount and coupon book programs, some Israeli hotels, especially those in international chains, still offer lower rates for seniors, especially during off season. Israeli pensioners get discounts on admission to museums and national parks, and your foreign senior ID may move a guard to give you the senior rate for an Israeli, though the discount is negligible compared to the effort and possible confrontation.

The Association of Americans and Canadians in Israel (AACI) sponsors many social activities and tours for seniors.

Members of AARP (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org) get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone 50 and older can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Road Scholar (tel. 800/454-5768; www.roadscholar.org) arranges study programs for adults in the U.S. and in more than 150 countries around the world. Most courses last a week or two and many include airfare, accommodations in university dormitories or modest inns, meals, and tuition.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com).

Regions in Brief

Tips for Long-Term Visitors

The Association of Americans and Canadians in Israel (AACI) is mainly for North American immigrants to Israel, but you can join the AACI or participate in many of its social activities, lectures, theater performances, and tours even if you're only planning to be in the country for a month or two, or only considering the possibility of immigrating to Israel. The AACI sponsors get-togethers on American holidays, English tutoring for new Ethiopian immigrants, singles events, counseling on retirement in Israel, and legal advice, and generally promotes the well-being of the country's English-speaking community. AACI offices in Jerusalem, General Pierre Koenig St. 37 (tel. 02/566-1181), and in Netanya, 28 Shmuel Ha-Naziv St. (tel. 09/833-0950), are especially active, but there are branches throughout the country, including Haifa, Tel Aviv, and in Beer Sheva. The AACI website is at www.aaci.org.il.

Getting There

By Plane

Israel’s main international airport is Ben Gurion (TLV). It's approximately 20 minutes by train or taxi from Tel Aviv and 45 minutes by private or shared taxi from Jerusalem. The other international airport is Eilat, at the southern tip of Israel, but it is mainly used for direct charter package flights from Europe and flights from inside the country.

Getting into Town from the Airport

From Ben Gurion to Jerusalem: Sheruts (shared taxis) will take you from the airport to any address in Jerusalem. Private taxis are also available.

From Ben Gurion to Tel Aviv: Trains leave Ben Gurion Airport for Tel Aviv frequently except in the middle of the night. The fare is NIS 15. There is no service starting 3 hours before Shabbat on Friday until after Shabbat is over Saturday night. From the railroad station you pick up a taxi to your hotel. Private flat-rate taxis run from the airport into Tel Aviv. Private taxi for two passengers from the airport to your hotel runs around NIS 150 official flat rate. There are extra charges for additional passengers, for each bag, and for night or Shabbat service. Agree on the flat rate and expect around NIS 30 to pop up in additional charges. Usually, fares will be higher if you choose to pay a meter fare.

Health & Safety

General Availability of Healthcare

Israel is blessed with an oversupply of doctors and contains a network of well-equipped, modern hospitals and Magen David Adom clinics, where you can get emergency treatment for flu, fevers, fractures, and upset stomachs, as well as for more serious emergencies. You are never far from good medical care. If need be, your hotel can arrange a house call with a licensed local physician who will be delighted to have a private case (and private payment). Pharmacies are well stocked, and you'll encounter many international name brands, but drug prices outside of Israeli insurance plans—even for nonprescription medicines such as aspirin or basic anti-diarrhea medicines—are comparatively high. Jordan and Sinai are not as well covered with major hospitals. Private consultation with a local physician will usually be relatively inexpensive.

The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/232-4636; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, also offers helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine website, www.istm.org.

Health & Food Concerns

Water—Tap water is safe and drinkable in Israel, except at The Dead Sea. There, even some luxury hotels have special taps on each floor that you must go to for drinking water. Although Israeli water is safe, the presence of various minerals in the water may make you a bit queasy. For this reason, bottled water could be a good investment, though in small amounts and for teeth brushing, local water is fine.

For short trips to Jordan and Egypt (Sinai), it's better to stick to bottled water.

Kosher Food—In Israel, at least half of all restaurants are kosher, although some may not have official kashrut certificates (in many cases because they do business on the Sabbath). All Israel hotels serve kosher food, with the exception of Christian guesthouses and hotels in Arabic areas of Jerusalem and Nazareth. In some secular areas of Tel Aviv, kosher restaurants, certified or not, can actually be hard to find. If you're lactose intolerant, note that kosher meat restaurants use no dairy products at all, not even for desserts.

Vegetarian Foods—The summer heat is especially conducive to lighter meals, and vegetarians will be delighted to find many vegetarian restaurants and venues serving vegetarian dishes throughout Israel. As kosher restaurants cannot serve both dairy and meat dishes, many add an array of vegetarian dishes to broaden their menus. There are also many traditional vegetarian dishes available at restaurants in Jordan and in Egypt.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns—Scorpions are always something to be aware of in desert and Mediterranean regions. If bitten by a scorpion, get emergency medical treatment immediately. Scorpions do not go out of their way to attack, but they love damp, warm places, and you can get bitten if you happen to put a hand or foot where one of them is resting. Check carefully when entering showers, bathrooms, or other damp places in the desert or countryside. There's minimal danger in the cities, but at beaches and in the countryside, take some simple precautions. Always shake out towels at the beach or pool before drying yourself; shake out shoes and socks before putting them on. If you're staying in simple places in the desert, shake out your sheets before getting into bed. Orange groves may look inviting, but big, mean snakes think so, too; avoid the temptation to stroll or picnic in them. In the Jordan Valley, there is a rare but very ugly skin infection called "Rose of Sharon" that's hard to control and will scar unless you get medical treatment—don't hesitate to see a doctor about any unusual or persistent bug bites or skin eruptions.

There is rabies in the countryside, and wild animals should be avoided. Dogs that are clearly well-tended pets are okay, but keep away from stray dogs and kittens and the urban refuse bin cats, no matter how friendly or hungry they may seem.

When snorkeling or diving in the Red Sea, remember that many coral formations are not only sharp, but they can burn. It is illegal to touch or walk on any coral—not only for your safety, but for the protection of the coral, which can be easily broken and killed. Spiny sea urchins, covering the underwater floor in many places, are the bane of snorkelers. Getting your foot impaled on one of these spines can wreck a vacation. It's best to wear foot coverings and try to avoid stepping anywhere near a sea urchin—and note that it's very easy for a wave or current to glide you right onto one. Study photo charts of fish before snorkeling, and memorize those that are poisonous to touch, especially the stonefish or rockfish, with their billowing, diaphanous fins that appear to be so delicate.

Respiratory Illnesses—The Dead Sea, far below sea level, has the thickest, most oxygen-rich atmosphere on the face of the earth. Those suffering from asthma, allergy, heart, or pulmonary problems often find the dry, pollen-free, oxygen-rich atmosphere helpful. The Negev city of Arad, with its dry, pollen-free air, is especially known as a place that is helpful to those suffering from asthma, or who have allergies to pollens and mold.

Sun Exposure—Sunburn and dehydration are problems throughout the region, but especially in the desert in summer. Although the air is dry, paradoxically, you often don't feel thirsty. Force yourself to drink a minimum of four 1.5-liter bottles of water a day as you travel the area in summer, more if you are in the desert. Sunscreen is a must, though you need less of it at The Dead Sea because the thicker atmosphere screens out the sun.

What to Do if You Get Sick Away from Home

Any foreign consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you get sick, your hotel desk can direct you to the nearest Magen David Adom clinic or can recommend a local doctor. We list hospitals and emergency numbers under "Fast Facts," in the individual destination chapters.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry prescription medications in their original containers, with pharmacy labels—otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Also carry copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Don't forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

Staying Safe

Israel is a low-crime country. Some of the major dangers you will encounter are car-related. Israeli drivers, though no worse than drivers in some other countries, aren't renowned for sound driving practices. Blatant tailgating is the unnerving way of life here. Car theft and theft of belongings from rental cars is also a major problem. Some rental car companies require you to use a steering wheel lock, and it is never a good idea to leave valuables in your car. Keeping baggage out of sight in the trunk helps a bit, but a parked rental car is an irresistible magnet for thieves.

When traveling in Jordan or in East Jerusalem and Arab cities inside Israel, travelers should not carry or drink alcohol (which is forbidden by Islam) in public, and modest dress is expected of both men and women. Women traveling alone must realize they are visiting Muslim societies, where the very fact of being unaccompanied by a man will be regarded as suspicious and provocative. Extremely modest dress is essential. All behavior must be very guarded, and all visitors should be aware of conservative Muslim sensibilities. Gay and lesbian travelers are advised to be unusually discreet when visiting these areas.

Security

Terrorism has become a problem everywhere in the world, and Israelis have become expert in dealing with it. In Jerusalem, security guards now prowl the bus stops, checking and intercepting suspicious-looking people before they can board a bus. Guards conduct bag and body checks at the entrances to shopping malls, markets, shops, cafes, restaurants, transportation hubs, and hotels. You'll find security guards at most major restaurants. Always keep alert and be aware of suspicious persons, especially if they are well bundled in coats or jackets when the weather is not cold.

Cultural Etiquette

In ultra-Orthodox Jewish neighborhoods, such as Mea Shearim, in Jerusalem, it is considered provocative for men and women to walk hand in hand, or even in close proximity. Long sleeves and skirts for women and long trousers for men are considered proper dress. No tank tops. In Arab areas, male travelers must not approach women to ask for directions or for any other purpose (women travelers may approach local women). It is provocative to be seen carrying or drinking alcohol in public, as the use of alcohol is forbidden by Islam.

Tips for Student Travelers

Israel is a student-friendly country. There are all kinds of student flights and discount airfares to Israel, and if you're from a Jewish-American family, you may even be eligible for a free trip to Israel under the Birthright (Taglit) Program (www.birthrightisrael.com), which provides the gift of first-time, peer-group, educational tours of Israel (airfare included) to Jewish adults ages 18 to 32. More than 750,000 people have taken advantage of this program, which is designed to encourage Jewish identity and connection with the State of Israel (waiting lists are long, so plan well in advance).

Even for independent travelers, there are discounts for students at museums, national parks, and railroads, although train discounts are minimal. Check out the International Student Identity Card (ISIC; www.isic.org) website for travel services information and details on how to get a card that qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more.The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America, 132-782 in Australia, 0871/2-300-040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world. If you're no longer a student but are still under 31, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/667-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before.

Inside Israel, there's been a slow but ongoing effort to provide access for visitors with disabilities—even at sites famed for their inaccessibility, such as Masada. Atop the dramatic plateau of Masada, a new network of wheelchair-accessible pathways was completed in 2000. At least some trails in a number of Israel's national parks and nature reserves (www.parks.org.il) have been made wheelchair accessible over the past few years. In addition to Masada, other national parks and sites with special-access facilities include Ashkelon National Park, Gamla Nature Reserve, and the Hula Reserve, as well as the Knights Hall in Akko. National parks and sites that have some amount of special-access provisions include: Zippori, Tel Hai, the Soreq Stalactite Cave, and the Ein Fasha Beach at The Dead Sea. Street crossings and public restrooms throughout the country rarely offer easy access. Some institutions located in difficult sites, such as the Israel Museum and Jerusalem Cinémathèque, have provisions for handicap access, but it's a good idea to call in advance.

Access in Israel: A Guide for People Who Have Difficulty Getting Around, by Gordon Couch, in cooperation with the Pauline Hephaistos Survey Project, published by Quiller Press, is an invaluable guide to special needs accessibility conditions in airports, hotels, restaurants, parks, museums, and other sites in Israel. Sights in places such as Jerusalem's Old City are arranged according to location, so you can easily plan what places you want to visit in a given area. Note, however, that it does not rate all hotels, restaurants, and sites, and in a few instances, as new access projects have been completed, this edition is already out-of-date. Access in Israel can be ordered by contacting the Access Project (39 Bradley Gardens, West Ealing, London, W13 8HE, United Kingdom; gordon.couch@virgin.net).

In 2004, the Israeli Association for the Advancement of Accessibility, in cooperation with the Israeli Ministry of Tourism, published a more current and thorough book, Access Unlimited: Your Guide to Israel, by Dr. Judith Bendel, Zvi Gur, and Ariel Kalkuda. A complete labor of love, written by Israelis who know their country well, this book is extensive, professional, and savvy. I cannot praise this book too highly. Assessments for blind and visually impaired travelers are included. Entries are alphabetical, rather than by location, which makes it necessary to have a working knowledge of the neighborhood or area you are visiting. At present, this book can be obtained without charge through the Israel Ministry of Tourism in your region well in advance of your trip. For more information, go to the Access Unlimited website at www.access-unlimited.co.il, or fax 972-9-7650-430.

One caveat: There are a few errors in both these books. An example: In Access Unlimited, the pool at the Sheraton Moriah Tel Aviv Hotel is listed as accessible, when in fact a narrow spiral staircase presently in use makes access unusually difficult. Those who make reservations at the Sheraton Moriah and hope to use the pool may find themselves disappointed. Although these editions are extremely helpful as planning tools, readers should call ahead to confirm and clarify all information.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities.

Avis Rent a Car has an "Avis Access" program that offers such services as a 24-hour toll-free number (tel. 888/879-4273) for customers with special travel needs; special car features such as swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), a referral resource for the blind or visually impaired that includes information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs; and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org; annual membership fees: $49 adults, $29 seniors and students), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services.

For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities, check out the website Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com.

Accessibility Assistance—Yad Sarah (www.friendsofyadsarah.org) is Israel's largest voluntary organization. It lends medical equipment, crutches, and wheelchairs; arranges airport and intercity transportation; helps prepare and equip hotel rooms for special needs; and offers advice for travelers to Israel with special needs. All services are free, although deposits are required for equipment. Advance planning and reservations are required to get the most help from Yad Sarah, but it's also a great resource for sudden or last-minute emergencies.

Getting Around

By Bus

Intercity buses are the fastest and easiest way of traveling between the major cities of Israel. Buses between Jerusalem, Haifa, and Tel Aviv depart very frequently. For less frequent buses, such as Tel Aviv or Jerusalem to Eilat, or Jerusalem to the Dead Sea, you must book your ticket in advance. Egged Bus Company connects most cities in Israel and operates buses within Jerusalem and Haifa.

By Train

Israel Railways is the country's state-run rail company. It connects Tel Aviv, Haifa, and Nahariya in the north, and also makes stops at Ben-Gurion Airport, Beersheba, Jerusalem, and elsewhere.

By Sherut

A sherut (shared taxi van) is a good way to travel between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv and between Tel Aviv and Haifa. Sheruts from Jerusalem leave as fast as they fill up from the corner of Rav Kook Street and Hanevi’im Street in Jerusalem (across Jaffa Rd. from Zion Square), and deposit you at the New Central Bus Station in Tel Aviv, where you can pick up local sheruts that ply the Number 4 bus route to the Ha-Yarkon St. hotel district or the Number 5 bus route to Rothschild and Dizengoff Boulevards.

Sheruts from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem or to Haifa wait just in front of the Tel Aviv Central Bus Station. Make sure the sherut you enter is going to the right destination. Sheruts to Haifa tend to fill up slowly.

Tip: Intercity sherut fares are virtually the same as bus fares, except on Shabbat, when they double (because no buses run). Because sheruts carry fewer passengers than buses, and there is time to scrutinize passengers, many Israelis feel sheruts are a bit less likely to be terror targets than buses.

By Car

In the main Israeli cities, such as Tel Aviv, Haifa, and Jerusalem, a car is not only unnecessary, it’s a burden. Parking is very difficult, and these cities are also cursed with arcane driving regulations. Plus, taxis, sheruts, and buses are efficient and reasonably priced, so you can easily let someone else do the driving.

A car becomes necessary if you want to explore the Galilee or the sites along the coast. Distances are short, so you can take in many sites. Major road signs are almost always in Hebrew and English; don’t panic if on a major highway a sign is only in Hebrew—the next sign up or the one beyond will usually have the information you need in English.

Important Note: Cars rented in Israel are often not insured for damages or liability if taken into the West Bank or Gaza. That being said, most companies’ rental insurance does permit travel on Hwy. 1, the main east-west highway from Jerusalem to The Dead Sea and on Route 90, the main road along The Dead Sea and the Jordan Valley from near Jericho north to Tiberias. Clarify these regulations each time you rent a car and get explicit instructions as to how to get to these roads in the West Bank, making sure not to stray anywhere else in the West Bank with your rental car. Also, clarify whether your car is insured for East Jerusalem, should you be planning to drive or stay in that part of the city.

Seatbelt use for drivers and all passengers is mandatory.

Road closures: In the ultrareligious neighborhoods of Jerusalem and in ultrareligious quarters of some smaller cities, public roads are closed to cars for the duration of Shabbat. Usually roads into these neighborhoods are blocked with rocks or boulders or police barriers. DO NOT TRY TO ENTER ANY ROAD BLOCKED OFF IN SUCH A WAY. Back up immediately and try to get away from the area. Drivers who inadvertently wander into such neighborhoods will have stones thrown at them and risk bodily harm.

Renting a Car

In general, you’ll do best, money-wise, reserving a car in advance of your arrival. If you plan to travel in the summer, or drive to the Negev and Eilat, you’ll want a car with air-conditioning that really works.

The largest Israeli car-rental firm is Eldan and is always worth looking into. Its fleet of cars is larger and more varied than those of the international agencies, and it often has discounts. Eldan also offers more offices and service centers throughout the country than any of its noninternational, Israeli competitors, so if you have a breakdown, you have a better chance of getting a replacement quickly.

Driving is one of the best ways to see Israel, but it can be expensive. Ways to save:

*  Find a package that bundles together the cost of the car with airfare or lodgings.

*  Rent on an unlimited kilometer basis so there are no ugly surprises. Renting by the week can be cheaper, but is not a good idea unless you plan to be in countryside areas for the entire 7-day rental period.

*  Rent the cheapest class of vehicle: There’s a shortage of these cars at the rental agencies, which means there’s a good chance you’ll be bumped up a class, at no extra cost, if you do this. No guarantees though.

Shabbat Charges

Some smaller Israeli companies offer no rental charge on Shabbat, although you do have to pay Saturday insurance (if it is a religious company, you may be on your honor not to drive on Shabbat). Others offer free transportation from the airport to your hotel if you want to start the rental later in your trip. Companies offering such services are often more expensive, but you may find these extras worthwhile. Warning: Beware of companies that offer to waive rental fees and insurance on Shabbat. If your parked car is vandalized or stolen on Shabbat, you’re in big trouble.

Parking, Gasoline & Breakdowns

In Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, and other main cities, parking can be extremely difficult. When you park on streets in downtown areas during daylight hours, you’ll either pay for parking with a meter, or you’ll display a parking card in the passenger window. Cards can be purchased at sidewalk dispensing machines. Tip: Keep a lookout for parking police who may ticket your car while you’re dashing to the dispenser.

Parking is permitted where curbs are painted blue and white, although you may need to display a parking card. It’s forbidden where curbs are red and white or gray. Parking on many residential streets in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv will soon be by residential sticker only. At most hotels in major cities, you’ll have to pay to park in an often distant municipal lot or the hotel’s limited space lot (fees are usually reasonable, but rates vary according to day or night and Shabbat). Most rural hotels have free parking.

Note: Do not park illegally anywhere or you will get towed; parking enforcement officials in Israel are quick and very thorough. You might see locals park on the sidewalks, but unless you know what you’re doing, don’t follow their example.

Breakdowns: Saturday and Jewish holidays, it’s near impossible to have a flat tire repaired in many areas, but your rental-car company will provide you with road service numbers to call in case of emergencies. Bigger companies usually have better service.

Distances in Israel are not great, and with the time you’d spend to get to the airport, pass through security, and go through the arrival process and transfers at your destination, you could probably just drive. But if traveling overland on hot days just isn’t your cup of tea, then by all means use Israel’s inland air service Arkia.

Package Deals

1- & 2-Day Affordable Escorted Tours

Egged Tours and United Tours are two major day tour companies in Israel. They offer 1- and 2-day (and longer) guided bus tours from Jerusalem and Tel Aviv to the Galilee, the Dead Sea, the Negev, the Coastal region, as well as tours of city and metropolitan areas. Some tours can also be taken from Haifa, Eilat, and other secondary cities. These tours can be an efficient way to visit a lot of places and fill in itineraries.

Much depends on the luck of the draw. Guides range from adequate to fabulous-- you might find yourself in a small congenial tour group that’s virtually a private tour, or a busload of unruly kids. A lot of time may be consumed as your tour bus makes the round of hotels picking up and dropping off other travelers in your group before the actual tour begins. If you’re thinking about taking more than two or three of these tours, it might be better to consider an organized, complete flight/hotel/package tour that will take you to all the major destinations you want to see in Israel.

Brilliant, low-budget routes were designed by Abraham Tours. The routes take visitors to major cities throughout Israel, with brief sightseeing stops at sites along the way that would be hard to get to by public transportation.

Day Tours to the West Bank

Depending on political conditions at the moment, a number of independent groups now offer escorted day tours into the West Bank/Palestinian Authority Areas. Always check State Department and Foreign Office travel advisories before entering the West Bank. For those who wish to see Bethlehem, Jericho, and other historic West Bank sites, these tours (all of which include varying degrees of emphasis on social and political conditions), can be an efficient way to explore.

In addition to Abraham Tours, there's Green Olive Tours, which places a heavier emphasis on politics. 

Private Guides

Private guides arrange all the logistics of travel during the times they are under hire and can take you to major sites as well as out-of-the-way places efficiently. For those with little time, this can be a restful way to get a great deal done and get an in-depth understanding of the country. The government licensing program has helped to raise the general quality of guides in Israel tremendously, but there’s still always a risk in touring with a guide—you never know if they’ll be articulate, a compelling storyteller, or a complete bore. So ask for extensive references before booking and, when you can, read online reviews of the guide in question. Many good professional guides have put together a brochure or video that will give you an indication of their styles and approaches. At these (or any) prices, you don’t want to be stuck with a lemon.

In Israel, it’s illegal for people to guide without a license. Unfortunately, if you go by car with an unlicensed guide, you’re probably not insured in case of an accident.

Israel's tourism information website lists many (but not all) of the country’s licensed guides.