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Visitor Information

The Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation (RTDC) information bureau is located on Platform 1 at the Jaipur Railway Station (tel. 0141/220-3531; open 24 hr.). There's an RTDC tourist help desk at Hotel Swagatam (behind Sadar Thana; tel. 0141/220-2586 or 0141/220-3531; Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; closed second Sat of every month). The Tourist Reception Centre is located at the Government Hostel, Paryatan Bhawan (tel. 0141/511-0595 through -0598; same hours as station office; mainly for emergencies or problems) on M.I. Road, the main thoroughfare in Jaipur. You'll find the less helpful Government of India Tourist Office at the Khasa Kothi hotel (tel. 0141/237-2200; Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-2pm), or call their 24-hour help line, tel. 1363, for information or assistance in an emergency, or to organize a guide. For predeparture planning, check out the RTDC's website (www.rtdc.in), or contact cro@rtdc.in.

To find out about any events or festivals or current arts and entertainment listings, ask your concierge, or pick up a copy of the daily Hindustan Times or the Jaipur Vision.

Getting There & Away

By Air -- Both Jet Airways (tel. 0141/511-2222 through -2225) and Indian Airlines (tel. 0141/274-3500 or -3324) have daily flights between Jaipur and Delhi (40-60 min.), Jodhpur (45 min.), Udaipur (50 min.), and Mumbai (directly1 1/2 hr.). Indian also flies to Kolkata (2 hr., 25 min. to 3 hr., 45 min.) four times a week. Sanganer Airport lies 15 minutes south of the center of town; most hotels are 30 minutes away. Use the prepaid taxi service for the most convenient trip into the city (unless your hotel provides a complimentary transfer); a taxi ride to the Old City should cost under Rs 300). It's a terribly grueling auto-rickshaw ride (but slightly cheaper at around Rs 200).

By Train -- The Jaipur Railway Station is located west of the Old City (reservations Mon-Sat 8am-2pm and 2:15-8pm, Sun 8am-2pm). You can reach Jaipur by train from just about anywhere. The Ajmer Shatabdi connects Jaipur with Delhi in 4 1/2 hours (daily except Wed); from Agra the Marudhar Express (early morning, alternate days) takes about 5 hours, while the late-night Howrah Express (arriving midnight) takes 4 hours. You will be inundated with offers from rickshaw-wallas upon your arrival at Jaipur Station -- to avoid this, go to the prepaid auto-rickshaw counter. Dial tel. 131 for railway inquiries, tel. 0141/220-4531 for recorded arrival and departure information, and tel. 135 for reservations. Reservations for foreign tourists are made at counter 8. To book a ticket, your easiest option is to get your hotel or a travel agent to do it for you. Either will charge a service fee of Rs 50 to Rs 100 per passenger.

By Bus -- Buses arrive at the Inter-State Bus Terminal (called Sindhi Camp bus stand) on Station Road. For information, call tel. 0141/220-7912 for regular buses; or tel. 0141/220-4445 for deluxe buses. Deluxe Volvo coaches from Delhi will drop you off at Bikaner House, near India Gate. Departing from the same depot, you'll pay Rs 5,000 for a seat on an A/C deluxe bus to Delhi; these leave half-hourly between 6am and 12:30am. It's a 5 1/2-hour trip.

By Car -- As is the case everywhere, you will need to hire a driver with your car. Book one with Indoarya at tel. 011/2651-1634; indoarya@vsnl.net. The Jaipur-Delhi National Highway no. 8 is a divided highway that should get you between the two cities in 4 hours, depending on traffic and what time you depart. The undivided highway between Agra and Jaipur through Fatehpur Sikri and Bharatpur is in reasonable condition, too. There's not much you can do about the driving habits of other drivers, but you can, and should, certainly say something if you feel yours is driving rashly.

Getting Around

Unprecedented commercial development in the state capital in recent years has not been accompanied by infrastructural change; rush-hour traffic is arguably worse here than anywhere else in the country, although there are plans afoot to address the crisis. Construction is underway for a Metro, which should be ready by the end of 2010, and new overpasses. The best way to get around the crowded city center is on foot or by rickshaw. A rickshaw should cost Rs 50 to Rs 100 per hour -- always discuss the fare upfront before you get into the rickshaw. If you're in a bind and simply need a taxi right away, call Pink City Taxi (tel. 0141/511-5100 or 0141/325-5500). More viable, however, is to hire an air-conditioned car and driver for use within the city for approximately 4 hours (40km/25 miles) at Rs 700; 8 hours (80km/50 miles) at Rs 1,200. If your intention is to hire a car and driver to tour Rajasthan at your own pace, contact Kaaljeet Singh of Indoarya at tel. 011/2651-1634; indoarya@vsnl.net, or you can try the government RTDC Transport Unit (tel. 0141/220-0778). If you like to support small local businesses, we suggest you contact Shankar Meena (tel. 98-2939-6947) of Rama Tours & Travels (Srinath Colony, Near Airport, Sanganer) to arrange a car of really excellent quality at standard rates. Chances are Shankar or his brother Ramavtar will be your driver, and although their English may not be all that great, service is good-natured, and you'll be doing your bit for local entrepreneurship. You can also contact Hari Ram Choudhary (tel. 94-1444-2618) for trips in the city or farther afield; he's been in the business for nearly 25 years and knows his way around. Another good local guide-driver is Jaideep Singh Sumal; call him at tel. 98280-62625 or e-mail him at choudharyhariram@yahoo.in

Guided Tours -- Official guides, who hang around outside attractions (and charge Rs 100) tend to have their commentary down pat, but their enthusiasm wanes as soon as they've been hired and a price has been settled upon; while they often can't engage in dialogue, they will convince you that the tour is going to last a lot longer than it needs to be. Don't take chances with these professional amateurs: Hire Jaimini Shastri (tel. 93-1450-9684; shastri_guide@yahoo.co.in; Rs 600 for the day), one of the most respected guides in Jaipur and well-versed in the city's history, culture, and arts and crafts. He can give you the best guided tour of Jantar Mantar, speaking at length on astronomy, astrology, and the observatory. Book him well in advance, and -- if you are planning to tour the whole state -- consider booking him for the entire trip. Alternatively, organize a guide through your hotel, or contact Rajasthan Travel (tel. 0141/236-5408) or Sita World Travel (tel. 0141/237-3996 or 0141/510-2020); you will inevitably pay a higher rate if you use a middleman, but the official rate is Rs 600 per day.

Tip: Consider picking up a copy of Dharmendar Kanwar's Jaipur -- 10 Easy Walks (Rupa; Rs 295) either from your hotel or from the excellent new Crossword bookstore (First Floor, K. K. Sq., C 11, Prithvi Raj Marg; tel. 0141/237-9400), which will also deliver books to you.

City Layout

The major attractions and best bazaars lie within the walls of the Old City. Just south of the wall lies Mirza Ismail (M.I.) Road -- running west to east, this major thoroughfare is where most of the primary retail outlets and a few good restaurants are located, and divides the city between the old (north) and new (south). The Old City is clearly distinguishable by its terra-cotta-colored walls and ramparts, and the new by its modern shops. Station Road, Sansar Chandra Marg, and Bhagwan Das Marg all intersect M.I. Road. Along these you will find all the services you need, from travel agents and money-changers to ATMs, restaurants, and Internet cafes. Farther south (but still within walking distance), diagonally opposite both Ajmeri Gate and New Gate of the Old City, lie Albert Hall and the Museum of Indology.

Festivals

As is the case everywhere in India, Jaipur seems to celebrate something new every month, but the following are worth noting: In February during the Harvest Festival (Basant Panchami) the city celebrates a Kite Festival, when hundreds of colorful kites sail the blue Jaipur sky, especially around the City Palace area; there's also a competition and display. In March, when Holi celebrants throughout the country splash color on anything that moves, Jaipur celebrates an Elephant Festival. The massive pachyderms -- dressed to the nines and decorated with paint -- march through the city's streets to the City Palace, accompanied by loud drumbeats and chanting. The event sees a tug-of-war between the elephants and their mahouts (elephant trainers/caretakers), as well as men playing polo -- on elephant-back, of course. Make sure you book accommodations in advance during this period.

The following month (Apr) is Gangaur, when the women of Rajasthan pray to the goddess Parvati (also known as Gangaur) for the longevity of their husbands or for husbands fair and kind. This culminates in a procession to Gangaur Temple by the symbolic Siva, accompanied by elephants, to take his bride home. Teej (July-Aug) sees Rajasthan's always colorfully clad women dressed in full regalia to celebrate the onset of the monsoon, while Diwali (Festival of Lights), the Hindu New Year, is celebrated throughout India in November.

Tip: Although all festivals are meant to be fun celebrations, a few unruly young men may try to ruin it with their aggressive behavior, especially during Holi and Diwali. Ask your hotel where it is advisable to go, and make sure you have your own transport if you are going to watch the festivities; single women travelers are advised to go with a male companion, escort, or guide.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.