Planning a trip to Jeju-do
Visitor Information
Jeju-do Tourist Association Information Center (tel. 064/742-6051; daily 6:30am-8pm) is located at the airport in front of the arrival gate on the first floor of the domestic terminal, where you can get free Internet access. You can find the KTO Tourist Info Center (tel. 064/742-0032; daily 6:30am-8pm) there as well.
There are also tourist information centers, all open daily, at the Jeju-si Ferry Terminal (tel. 064/758-7181; 6:30am-8pm), the Yongduam Rock (tel. 064/728-3918; 9am-8pm) parking lot, Jeju-si Intercity Bus Terminal (tel. 064/753-0353; 9am-8pm), Jeju-si Underground Mall (tel. 064/750-7595; 9am-6pm), Shin-Jeju (tel. 064/755-5959; 9am-6pm), Tap-dong Outdoor Performance Hall (tel. 064/751-8111; 9am-6pm), inside Jeju City Hall (tel. 064/710-3314; 9am-6pm), at the Seogwipo Bus Terminal (tel. 064/739-1391), in front of Manjang Cave (tel. 064/784-2387), and in Sanbangsan (tel. 064/730-1549).
Be sure to get a map of Jeju-do and a current bus schedule, if you're planning to travel by bus. You can find one on the Jeju-do travel website at http://eng.tour2jeju.net.
Getting Around
Jeju-do isn't as small as you might think. Most people book at least 3 days and 2 nights to get a general overview of the island, since most tourist locations are about an hour from Jeju City. Jeju-do is best explored by car or taxi, if you're not on a strict budget. It's also one of the few places in South Korea where I would recommend renting a car (although it's still not the least expensive way to get around), since traffic is minimal and roads are easily marked. Easier and even cheaper than renting a car is to get a tour taxi for the day.
Buses are available and reliable, but are slower and require the exact fare, making it important to carry a pocketful of W1,000 bills and loose change wherever you go. There is no rail or subway system on the island.
Jeju Trolley Limousine Tour Bus -- Don't be fooled by the name, since this tour is neither a trolley nor a limousine, but rather a climate-controlled bus. Comfortable, nevertheless, this is a great way to get an overview of the island, especially if you're on a tight schedule. There are two courses: one that tours the east side of the island and another that goes around the west side of the island, including Seogwipo. Both courses start between 8:30 and 9:30am from the island's major hotels. The eastern course includes Seong-eup Folk Village, Manjang Cave, and Seopjikoji, a scenic peninsula where many movies have been filmed. The eastern course has an option to visit Elephant Land for an additional W12,000 (W9,000 for kids). The western course covers the O'Sulloc Tea Museum, the Soingook Theme Park, and Cheonjieon Waterfalls, with an option to ride the Seogwipo Ferry for an additional W16,500 (W9,000 for kids). Both courses end around 6pm and you can arrange to have them drop you off at the airport, if you wish. You must make reservations at least a day in advance by calling tel. 064/763-8879. A 1-day pass costs W35,000 adults, W28,000 children, and 2-day passes are W55,000 adults, W44,000 children.
By Car -- The island's destinations are clearly marked in both English and Korean and some of the remote places are most easily explored by car. You can take your pick from among the following reputable agencies: Jeju Ok Rent a Car (tel. 064/743-4000; www.jejuokrent.co.kr), Jeju Rent a Car (tel. 064/742-3307), Geumho Rent a Car (tel. 064/743-8107), Avis Rent a Car (tel. 064/749-3773), and Jeju Rental Car Service Association (tel. 064/747-4301). There are several more rental-car agencies in Jeju-do, but those I've mentioned are all available at the airport. If you're undecided about whether you want a car, you can rest easy. There's generally no need to make advance reservations -- there is a rental-car information desk when you arrive at the airport (on the first floor of the domestic terminal) and they usually have cars available. That said, I highly recommend reserving in advance if you're visiting during the summer or during a national holiday. Tip: If you're staying at one of the resort hotels, it's best for you to rent a car at the hotel's rental office, since they usually offer 50% discounts to guests.
You have to be at least 21, have been driving for at least a year, and have both your International Driving Permit and your passport with you in order to rent a car. You can get free maps at either the car-rental company or the tourist information desk at the airport. All the rental-car companies have comparable prices (Avis is a little pricier but their employees speak better English), starting at W76,000 for a small compact like the Hyundai Avante, W117,000 for a midsize car like the Hyundai Sonata, and W250,000 for an SUV like the Hyundai Grandeur. The per-day rates get lower the longer you rent.
The maximum speed limit on Jeju highways is 80kmph (50 mph), but most roads are 50kmph to 60kmph (31-37 mph). As on the mainland, the roads have high-tech cameras ready to catch you speeding, so be careful.
By Taxi -- Getting around by taxi is easier in Jeju-do than other parts of the country, since there is comparably little traffic (except a bit in the evenings). Tour taxis are popular among South Korean honeymooners, since they get a driver, tour guide, and photographer all in one. It may be a good option for you too if you don't want to drive, but still want access to out-of-the way scenic destinations (although most taxi drivers speak limited English, if at all). The good thing about Jeju-do's taxis are that they are all the same price, with regular fares starting at W1,500 and going up W100 every 213m (1/8 mile).The night fare (midnight-4am) is 20% more. If you decide to use a tour taxi, it will cost about W80,000 to W120,000 per day. You can negotiate with the taxi driver to try to get a better rate.
By Bus -- The bus system is reliable, though it's neither the most convenient nor the fastest way to get around Jeju-do (especially if you have limited time on the island). The buses do travel to most tourist destinations, but some (like the Manjang Caves) will require an additional bit of walking or hiking on your part. Most bus routes radiate from terminals in Jeju City or Seogwipo, covering most of the island, with service every 20 minutes or so. Be sure you get a copy of the current bus schedules at the tourist information center.
There are two buses that run on Highway 12, which circumnavigates the island. One bus starts at Jeju-si and goes to Seogwipo via Seongsan (going east), while the other starts at Jeju-si and goes to Seogwipo via Hallim (going west). They both start running at 5:40am every 20 minutes until 8pm. After 8pm, there are two more buses every half-hour until 9pm. Regular bus fare is W1,000 adults, W800 for junior high students, W400 for elementary school kids. You can get additional info on the intercity buses by calling tel. 064/753-3242 for Jeju-si and tel. 064/762-3248 for Seogwipo-si.
By Bike -- Outside of Jeju City and Seogwipo, biking is common. In fact, there is a continuous bike lane on both sides of Highway 12. Cycling the entire 182km (113 miles) will take about 3 to 5 days, depending on your skill level. Some shore roads also have bike lanes, but many of them aren't continuous and are inconvenient. Rentals are W5,000 to W8,000 per day and are available near the Jeju-si Bus Terminal, Yongduam (Dragon Head Rock, a basalt formation carved into its dragon-head shape by the wind and the sea), or the beachfront.
You can rent both bicycles and scooters, but bikes are more eco-friendly, of course. In Old Jeju, there is a motorbike shop where the owner speaks English well. Go to Seosara JC, go 1 block south, and look for Keumsung Motorcycle (tel. 064/758-5296; http://jejubike.co.kr, in Korean) on the east side of the street. They rent a scooter for about W20,000 per day.
Getting There
By Plane
Jeju International Airport (CJU; tel. 064/797-2114 or 797-2525; jeju.airport.co.kr) is located about 4km (2 1/2 miles) from Jeju City. The Jeju-do Tourist Association Tourist Information Center (tel. 064/742-6051) is on the first floor of the domestic terminal, in front of the arrival gates. There is also a Korean Tourism Organization (KTO) Information Center (tel. 064/742-0032) on the first floor of the international terminal, in front of the arrival gates. Both have helpful, English-speaking staff and provide maps, brochures, and hotel information.
Seventeen airlines fly in and out of Jeju-do, and three domestic airlines fly to Jeju from 13 cities, including Seoul's Gimpo Airport (GMP). Airlines making regular flights include Korean Air (tel. 064/1588-2001; www.koreanair.com), Asiana Airlines, 2031, Yongdam 2-dong, Jeju-si (tel. 064/1588-8000; http://us.flyasiana.com), Jeju Air (tel. 070/1599-1500; www.jejuair.net), Dongbang Airlines (tel. 064/711-9834 or 5), and Buheung Airlines (tel. 064/747-9093 or 4). Jeju Air's website contains limited information in English, so it's best to call or e-mail them for reservations. Flights from Seoul arrive every 15 to 30 minutes, cost about W170,000 to W185,000, and take about an hour and 15 minutes. Flights from Busan's Gimhae Airport (PUS) cost about W135,000 to W150,000.
International flights from Japan and China depart less frequently. Each week, there are six flights from Tokyo, four from Osaka, three from Hong Kong, and two from Beijing. Since about 94% of visitors to the island come by air, they are planning a long-term expansion of the airport to be completed in 2020. The first phase, which will expand landing and takeoff capacity, should be completed by the end of 2010.
By Ferry
You can travel to and from Jeju-do via passenger ship from various ports in South Korea. The Jeju city harbor is the only one with access to ports on the peninsula. There are three terminals; the first two are right next to each other and the third is about a kilometer down the road. Terminal 1 has boats to Busan, Incheon, and Mokpo. Terminal 2 has ferries to Wando and Yeosu, while the International Terminal 3 has service to Wando, Mokpo, and occasional trips to Japan.
The most popular way to arrive by boat is traveling overnight from Busan's Domestic Terminal, with boats leaving around 7pm and arriving 11 hours later. There are two different lines and at least one of them departs every day except Sunday. I prefer the Seolbongho (Orient Star; tel. 064/751-1901), which is newer and cleaner than the Cozy Island (tel. 064/751-0300), which runs Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 7:30pm. The Seolbongho, run by the Dongyang Express Ferry Co. (tel. 051/751-1901), has service Wednesday through Friday at 6:30pm. A second-class room (for three) will set you back around W50,000, but it's worth it if you plan on getting a good night's rest. If you want to slum it in third class for W35,000, you'll have to sleep in a large room (bring your own sleeping bag and mat) with at least 10 other people. On the other hand, if you want to splurge, book a private VIP room for W220,000. Rates on the Cozy Island are a bit cheaper than those on the Seolbongho, but you get what you pay for. Call to check current rates. You can catch the return trip from the Jeju City Terminal 1 at 7:30pm for another 11 hours back to Busan.
From Incheon Ferry Terminal, the ferry leaves at 6pm and arrives about 15 hours later in Jeju-do. Boats run Monday through Saturday. The return trip to Incheon also starts at 6pm from Jeju-do. Fares start at around W36,000 for third class, but you may want to pay the extra fees to upgrade to second or first class.
You can also get a ferry from the Mokpo Ferry Terminal (tel. 061/240-6060). Service is available daily on the Pegasus, but there is no service Mondays on the New Sea World Express, and no Sunday service for the Car Ferry Rainbow. Weekday ferries leave twice a day (usually around 9am and 2pm) and weekend ferries once a day. The ride is just over 3 hours (unless you decide to take the Pegasus, which takes the scenic route and lasts about 5 1/2 hr.) and starts around W14,000 for a third-class ticket.
Boats from the Yeosu Ferry Terminal (tel. 061/663-0117) are run by Namhae Express (tel. 061/665-3399) and run daily (with reduced service Sun-Mon). There are two ferries, one that starts at 6pm and one at 8am, running 6 1/2 hours and 5 hours, respectively.
Service to and from Wando Ferry Terminal (tel. 061/554-4207) is available daily (though the car ferry doesn't run Sun). The ferry from Wando, which starts at 7:30am, costs W24,000 for adults, W12,000 for children. Most rides last about 3 hours.
Other than destinations listed above, you can also travel to Udo, Sangchujado, and Hachujado from the Jeju Ferry Terminal.
With all of these ferries, you can just buy a ticket the day you leave, but book in advance if you're traveling during the popular summer months or Chuseok. Of course, schedules are subject to change, especially during inclement weather.
Getting into Town
The Airport Limousine Bus (tel. 064/713-7000) from Jeju Airport can be found outside gate 1 (turn left). The Limousine Bus no. 600 costs W3,500 to Jungmun and W4,700 to Seogwipo (half-price for children) and stops at all the major tourist hotels, ending at Seogwipo's KAL Hotel. Service runs 6:20am until 9:50pm, every 15 minutes. Regular airport buses include numbers 100, 200, 300, and 500 (to Jeju City Hall) and are cheaper than the limousine bus, starting at W1,000.
If you'd like to rent a car, there is an Avis car rental (tel. 064/749-3773) on the first floor of the airport, right outside of the domestic flight exit. There is also a Geumho Rent-a-Car tel. 064/743-8107) at the airport.
On average, a taxi from the airport to Seogwipo will cost approximately W30,000 and last just under an hour. Expect to pay 20% extra after midnight.
Fast Facts
Banks, Foreign Exchange & ATMs -- Normal banking hours are Monday to Friday 9am to 4pm. There are currency exchange bureaus at the airport and inside major hotels. ATMs can be found all over the island, but look for the Global logo, since those are the most foreigner-friendly. ATMs in department stores are usually the most user-friendly.
Business Hours -- Most offices and businesses open from 9am to 6pm Monday to Friday. Shops are generally open 9am to 10pm Monday through Saturday, while most offices and government buildings are open 9am to 4:40pm on weekdays.
Doctors & Dentists -- Most first-class hotels can refer you to a doctor or dentist. In an emergency, dial tel. 119 or call one of the recommendations under "Hospitals," below.
Hospitals -- Those with English-speaking doctors and 24-hour emergency care include Halla Medical Center, 1963-2 Yon-dong, Jeju City (tel. 064/740-5266, ext. 0, or 740-5102); Cheju National University Hospital, 690-716, 3-do 2-dong, Jeju City (tel. 064/717-1114); and the Seogwipo Medical Center, 1530-2 Dongheung-dong, Seogwipo-si (tel. 064/730-3109). The Seogwipo Public Health Center (tel. 064/735-3550) is open weekdays.
Hot Lines -- Tourist information is available in English from the Korean Tourist Assistance Center (tel. 1330). For directory assistance in English, dial tel. 00794.
Internet Access -- Most high-end tourist hotels, love motels, and even some hostels have Internet access, but if yours doesn't you can use one of the PC bahngs (PC rooms) in Jeju-si or Seogwipo for about W1,000 to W1,500 per hour.
Newspapers -- The Jeju Times (http://jejutimes.co.kr) is available in English online, and two English-language daily newspapers, Korean Herald (www.koreaherald.co.kr) and The Korea Times (http://times.hankooki.com), are available on the island.
Pharmacies -- There are no 24-hour drugstores in Jeju-do. Most of them can be found in Jeju-si or Seogwipo, displaying a large green cross symbol or the Korean word for medicine (?). Convenient stores and a few stores in luxury hotel lobbies are open around the clock and carry simple remedies, like aspirin.
Police -- Dial tel. 112 for the police; although their English will be limited, they will assist you. Police stations are clearly marked in English.
Post Offices -- There are 40 post offices and 21 postal agencies in Jeju-do. All are open Monday through Friday 9am to 5pm. The Jeju City post office and the Seogwipo post office are also open Saturday 9am to 1pm. If you have questions, or to find the nearest post office, call tel. 064/739-4503.
Weather -- Call the Korean Tourist Assistance Center at tel. 1330 or tel. 131 for the latest weather (especially useful for planning ferry excursions).
