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By Plane

Jeju International Airport (CJU; tel. 064/797-2114 or 797-2525; jeju.airport.co.kr) is located about 4km (2 1/2 miles) from Jeju City. The Jeju-do Tourist Association Tourist Information Center (tel. 064/742-6051) is on the first floor of the domestic terminal, in front of the arrival gates. There is also a Korean Tourism Organization (KTO) Information Center (tel. 064/742-0032) on the first floor of the international terminal, in front of the arrival gates. Both have helpful, English-speaking staff and provide maps, brochures, and hotel information.

Seventeen airlines fly in and out of Jeju-do, and three domestic airlines fly to Jeju from 13 cities, including Seoul's Gimpo Airport (GMP). Airlines making regular flights include Korean Air (tel. 064/1588-2001; www.koreanair.com), Asiana Airlines, 2031, Yongdam 2-dong, Jeju-si (tel. 064/1588-8000; http://us.flyasiana.com), Jeju Air (tel. 070/1599-1500; www.jejuair.net), Dongbang Airlines (tel. 064/711-9834 or 5), and Buheung Airlines (tel. 064/747-9093 or 4). Jeju Air's website contains limited information in English, so it's best to call or e-mail them for reservations. Flights from Seoul arrive every 15 to 30 minutes, cost about W170,000 to W185,000, and take about an hour and 15 minutes. Flights from Busan's Gimhae Airport (PUS) cost about W135,000 to W150,000.

International flights from Japan and China depart less frequently. Each week, there are six flights from Tokyo, four from Osaka, three from Hong Kong, and two from Beijing. Since about 94% of visitors to the island come by air, they are planning a long-term expansion of the airport to be completed in 2020. The first phase, which will expand landing and takeoff capacity, should be completed by the end of 2010.

By Ferry

You can travel to and from Jeju-do via passenger ship from various ports in South Korea. The Jeju city harbor is the only one with access to ports on the peninsula. There are three terminals; the first two are right next to each other and the third is about a kilometer down the road. Terminal 1 has boats to Busan, Incheon, and Mokpo. Terminal 2 has ferries to Wando and Yeosu, while the International Terminal 3 has service to Wando, Mokpo, and occasional trips to Japan.

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The most popular way to arrive by boat is traveling overnight from Busan's Domestic Terminal, with boats leaving around 7pm and arriving 11 hours later. There are two different lines and at least one of them departs every day except Sunday. I prefer the Seolbongho (Orient Star; tel. 064/751-1901), which is newer and cleaner than the Cozy Island (tel. 064/751-0300), which runs Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 7:30pm. The Seolbongho, run by the Dongyang Express Ferry Co. (tel. 051/751-1901), has service Wednesday through Friday at 6:30pm. A second-class room (for three) will set you back around W50,000, but it's worth it if you plan on getting a good night's rest. If you want to slum it in third class for W35,000, you'll have to sleep in a large room (bring your own sleeping bag and mat) with at least 10 other people. On the other hand, if you want to splurge, book a private VIP room for W220,000. Rates on the Cozy Island are a bit cheaper than those on the Seolbongho, but you get what you pay for. Call to check current rates. You can catch the return trip from the Jeju City Terminal 1 at 7:30pm for another 11 hours back to Busan.

From Incheon Ferry Terminal, the ferry leaves at 6pm and arrives about 15 hours later in Jeju-do. Boats run Monday through Saturday. The return trip to Incheon also starts at 6pm from Jeju-do. Fares start at around W36,000 for third class, but you may want to pay the extra fees to upgrade to second or first class.

You can also get a ferry from the Mokpo Ferry Terminal (tel. 061/240-6060). Service is available daily on the Pegasus, but there is no service Mondays on the New Sea World Express, and no Sunday service for the Car Ferry Rainbow. Weekday ferries leave twice a day (usually around 9am and 2pm) and weekend ferries once a day. The ride is just over 3 hours (unless you decide to take the Pegasus, which takes the scenic route and lasts about 5 1/2 hr.) and starts around W14,000 for a third-class ticket.

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Boats from the Yeosu Ferry Terminal (tel. 061/663-0117) are run by Namhae Express (tel. 061/665-3399) and run daily (with reduced service Sun-Mon). There are two ferries, one that starts at 6pm and one at 8am, running 6 1/2 hours and 5 hours, respectively.

Service to and from Wando Ferry Terminal (tel. 061/554-4207) is available daily (though the car ferry doesn't run Sun). The ferry from Wando, which starts at 7:30am, costs W24,000 for adults, W12,000 for children. Most rides last about 3 hours.

Other than destinations listed above, you can also travel to Udo, Sangchujado, and Hachujado from the Jeju Ferry Terminal.

With all of these ferries, you can just buy a ticket the day you leave, but book in advance if you're traveling during the popular summer months or Chuseok. Of course, schedules are subject to change, especially during inclement weather.

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Getting into Town

The Airport Limousine Bus (tel. 064/713-7000) from Jeju Airport can be found outside gate 1 (turn left). The Limousine Bus no. 600 costs W3,500 to Jungmun and W4,700 to Seogwipo (half-price for children) and stops at all the major tourist hotels, ending at Seogwipo's KAL Hotel. Service runs 6:20am until 9:50pm, every 15 minutes. Regular airport buses include numbers 100, 200, 300, and 500 (to Jeju City Hall) and are cheaper than the limousine bus, starting at W1,000.

If you'd like to rent a car, there is an Avis car rental (tel. 064/749-3773) on the first floor of the airport, right outside of the domestic flight exit. There is also a Geumho Rent-a-Car tel. 064/743-8107) at the airport.

On average, a taxi from the airport to Seogwipo will cost approximately W30,000 and last just under an hour. Expect to pay 20% extra after midnight.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.