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A great way to start your evening is with local sherry and the best tapas in town at Las Botas, Santo Domingo 13 (tel. 95-633-89-77). In business since the mid-1970s, it offers a delectable display of food, including Spanish tortillas (thick omelets with layers of potato), cured hams, regional cheese, mushrooms, and shrimp or bull meat marinated in sherry. Plates cost from 5€ to 8€ ($8-$13). It's open Monday to Saturday noon to 5pm and 8pm to 1am.

Only 3 blocks from Plaza del Arenal, Bar Alegría, Calle Corredera 30 (tel. 95-633-80-70), is patronized by savvy locals. We would come just for the croquetas de pollo (chicken croquettes), the best in the city. A friendly crowd, often young, congregates here at night. Tapas sell for 1.50€ ($2.40) and up, raciones (servings) for 6€ ($9.60). Open Monday to Saturday 8am to 11pm.

Jerez is known for its flamenco. The best shows -- very untouristy -- are at El Lagá de Tío Parrilla, Plaza del Mercado (tel. 95-633-83-34). Monday-to-Saturday shows begin at 10:30pm and 12:30am. The cover of 12€ ($19) includes the first drink, and reservations are suggested.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.