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The top hotels offer reliable, if expensive, Western food. KFC is at Chaoshan Jie opposite Silver Plaza, and McDonald's is at Quancheng Lu 180. There is a bakery, Dasanyuan, at Chaoshan Jie Beishou; it's open from 8am to 9pm.

Set back from Quancheng Lu's main shopping drag is Furong Jie, a small street redone to look like a traditional Chinese alley. It's atmospheric and not too touristy. The entrance is marked by a traditional Chinese archway at Quancheng Lu 197. Head in and take your first right. You'll find several restaurants serving standard, tasty Chinese fare and traditional Ji'nan snacks like youxuan, a small, flat bun with spring onions twisted and baked in the street-vendor equivalent of a coal-fired Dutch oven.

Jingya, Yingxiong Shan Nan Lu 207 (tel. 0531/8272-0268), is known to many foodies in Shandong and Beijing as the premier restaurant for Lu cuisine. The humble restaurant serves food that packs a punch. Try the spicy mountain chicken (lazi shanji), shrimp with cabbage (daxia baicai), or three-flavor pan-fried dumpling (sanxian guotie).

Restaurants serving traditional Shandong cuisine are on Chaoshan Jie near the heart of the town. Try the ma popo men shuangsun (steamed bamboo and asparagus) the various kinds of zhou (rice porridge) at Lao Hangzhou Jiu Wan Ban, Chaoshan Jie 18 (tel. 0531/8612-7228), where a meal for two costs ¥30 to ¥50. The restaurant provides special slender chopsticks unique to the coastal town of Hangzhou.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.