Jiayu Guan is a prosperous steel town, so the restaurants -- unlike the hotels -- do well year-round. The main outdoor food markets are Fuqiang Shichang and Jingtie Shichang. The night market on the north side of Jingtie Shichang is the liveliest in town. Sheep carcasses dangle, beer flows, and vendors make fun of their regular customers. No one knows the name of the night market's greatest showman, who is simply called Yanjing (Spectacles). His shop is easy to spot, under a sign with a caricature of a man with huge glasses and a smock. The caricature is on the mark and Spectacles will serve you tasty Uigher lamb skewers (yangrou chuan) or mini-lamb chops (yangpai) by the handful (ba) -- about 20 in each serving, give or take a couple. But make sure you know what you're eating.

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