The Puru Ulun Siwi temple, at the village's main crossroads, dates from the 18th century and is one of the few that faces east, rather than north to Mount Gunung Agung, as is the usual practice. This is because the temple, once a primitive shrine, became a Hindu-Balinese temple fairly early in the 11th century. At this time, the holy man Mpu Kuturan still followed the custom of his native Java in orienting his temple toward holy Mount Semura in East Java. You might just catch a farmer, from the market across the street, at the temple collecting water to bless his fields for good harvests -- and to keep rodents at bay. The produce market across the street isn't one of Bali's largest but it is one of the best. Because of its proximity to the seafood market, many of the island's chefs and their staff shop here. As a result, farmers know to bring their best and brightest produce.
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