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Small eateries abound, but hygiene does not seem to be a priority and even I -- with a cast-iron stomach from 10 years of being in China -- did not have the guts to try any of them. Yilong Dajiudian, Cidu Da Dao 908 (tel. 0798/833-3333; 6:30-9:30am, 5-9pm, and 9:30pm-2am), next to the Customs Office, looks more like a hotel than a restaurant but offers a wide selection of Gan cai (Jiangxi dishes) and Chinese standards. The hot dishes (Jiangxi food is spicy) are labeled huo la -- fiery hot. Try sangna niurou, "sauna" beef -- tender slices in a garlicky, peppery oil, served in a clay pot and cooked by putting small heated stones in the liquid. The first floor has plenty of other dishes on display to make choosing easier, but bear in mind that this is not a cheap place and a bill of ¥200 for two should be expected. KFC is now on Zhu Shan Lu, as is the copycat CFC or China's Fried Chicken, with identical typeface on the logo and even better chicken wraps than the original.

UNDC (Di Ou) Coffee Shop, Changnan Da Dao (tel. 0798/851-8768; www.diocoffee.com; 11am-2am) has free wireless for customers and a huge menu of Chinese and Western dishes to choose from with the business sets seeming to be the best value. The staff here are outstanding, with one little waitress running after me in the street to return the tip that I had left, explaining that in China "this is not the custom." Statues at the end of Zhu Shan Jie on the opposite corner show the process of working the local clay, blowing on glazes, carrying items to kilns, and more.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.