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The lobby restaurant at the Goldbelt Hotel, Zen strives for "Ring-of-Fire" chic. With its polished black river stone, protruding bamboo stalks, and flowy ceiling fabric, you know the owners are trying to bring a little minimalist West Coast cool to Juneau. In its mind, it’s doing the Asian-fusion,so it serves fried rice alongside a modest portion of salmon and slathers New York strips in oyster sauce. In reality, though, Zen is a simple Chinese restaurant putting on airs. It's like a small-town kid just back from L.A. with a funny new haircut, an eyebrow ring, and a pair of ultra hip trousers that sag in the butt. Humor its pretension, ignore the high-end entrees, and go for the excellent Szechuan string beans, the beef broccoli, and kung pao shrimp. The Chinese dishes are solid – and they’re the most affordable, to boot.