Given the difficulties getting around Kadavu, I have visited only the three resorts I recommend below. Next time I intend to see Tiliva Resort (tel. 333 7127; www.tilivaresortfiji.com), on the far northeastern end of Kadavu facing Ono Island. It's the creation of Kim Yabaki, a native of Tiliva village who spent 20 years in the British army, and his Irish wife, Barbara. Their guests stay in large, chalet-style bungalows on a hillside overlooking their 7.2 hectares (18 acres), a beach, and the Ono Passage. Each unit has a kitchen, and the Yabakis have a restaurant and bar. Rates range from F$425 to F$530 (US$276-US$344/£142-£177) for a double, including all meals. Credit cards are accepted only if you book through Tiliva's website.

Nearby is the inexpensive Waisalima Beach Resort & Dive Center (tel./fax 603 0486; www.waisalimafiji.com), which has a restaurant, bar, simple Fijian-style bures, and a dormitory beside a sandy beach. Bures range from F$75 to F$150 (US$49-US$97/£25-£50) for a double, while dorm beds cost F$25 (US$16/£8.30) per person. Meals and transfers are extra, and credit cards are not accepted.

Nagigia Island Resort (tel. 603 0454; www.fijisurf.com), on Nagigia Island off Kadavu's western end, was slated for major upgrades in 2008, though they had not taken place by press time. Given its proximity to the famous King Kong Breaks off Cape Washington, it remains one of Fiji's top surfing destinations.

Note: You must take a small boat to all Kadavu resorts, so be sure to ask if the transfers are included in the rates you are quoted.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.