Getting There -- Regional Express (REX; tel. 13 17 13 in Australia, or 08/8553 2938; www.regionalexpress.com.au) flies to Kangaroo Island from Adelaide. The flight usually takes about 30 minutes.

If you prefer to go by sea, Kangaroo Island SeaLink (tel. 13 13 01 in Australia, or 08/8202 8688; www.sealink.com.au) operates two vehicle and passenger ferries twice daily at 9am and 6pm (more frequently in peak periods) from Cape Jervis on the tip of the Fleurieu Peninsula on the mainland to Penneshaw on Kangaroo Island. The trip takes 45 minutes and costs A$88 round-trip for adults, A$48 for children 3 to 14, and A$172 for cars. Connecting bus service from Adelaide to Cape Jervis costs an extra A$46 for adults, and A$24 for children round-trip. Count on 3 hours for the entire trip from Adelaide if you take the connecting bus. Bookings are essential.

SeaLink also runs a range of island tours, including the 2-day, 1-night "KI Coast to Coast," which costs from A$433 per person sharing a double room. SeaLink also offers a wide range of accommodations, day tours, and adventure activities and offers Adelaide hotel pickups for selected tours.

Visitor Information -- Tourism Kangaroo Island, Gateway Information Centre, Howard Drive (P.O. Box 336), Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island, SA 5222 (tel. 08/8553 1185; fax 08/8553 1255; www.tourkangarooisland.com.au), has maps and information and can help visitors with accommodations and tours.

Island Layout -- Kangaroo Island is Australia's third-largest island, 156km (97 miles) long and 57km (35 miles) wide at its widest point. The distance across the narrowest point is only 2km (1 1/4 miles). Approximately 3,900 people live on the island. More than half live on the northeast coast in the three main towns: Kingscote (pop. 1,800), Penneshaw (pop. 250), and American River (pop. 200). The island's major attractions are farther from the mainland: Flinders Chase National Park is in the far west, Lathami Conservation Park is on the north coast, and Seal Bay and Kelly's Caves are on the south coast.

When to Go

The best time to visit Kangaroo Island is between November and March (though you'll have difficulty finding lodging over the Christmas school-holiday period). July and August tend to be rainy, and winter can be cold (though often milder than on the mainland around Adelaide). Many companies offer 1-day trips to Kangaroo Island from Adelaide, but I would advise you to tailor your holiday to spend at least 2 days here -- 3 or even 5 days would be even better.

Getting Around

Kangaroo Island is a big place, and apart from twice-daily SeaLink bus service, which connects Kingscote, Penneshaw, and American River, there is no public transport on the island. While you can get a lot out of the tours, I would heartily recommend you hire a car and spend at least 3 days here. Airport Shuttle Service (tel. 0427/887 575) meets all flights to Kangaroo Island and will take passengers to Kingscote, Emu Bay, and American River. Book the return trip from your accommodations to the airport in advance.

Major roads between Penneshaw, American River, Kingscote, and Parndana are paved, as is the road to Seal Bay and all major roads within Flinders Chase National Park. Most other roads are made of ironstone gravel and can be very slippery if the driver approaches corners too quickly. If you're in a rental car from the mainland, make sure your policy lets you drive on Kangaroo Island's roads. Avoid driving at night -- animals rarely fare best in a car collision.

Car-rental agencies on the island include Budget (tel. 08/8553 3133), FCBS 4WD Hire (tel. 08/8553 7278), and Hertz (tel. 13 30 39 in Australia). You can pick up cars at the airport or ferry terminals.

Special Value: An Island Bargain -- Get a Kangaroo Island Pass if you're going to explore the island on your own for 3 days or more and visit the national park and attractions. It costs A$61 for adults, A$36.50 for children, and A$166 for families, and includes guided tours of Seal Bay, Kelly Hill Caves, Cape Borda, and Cape Willoughby. The pass also includes access to Flinders Chase National Park. The pass doesn't cover penguin tours or camping fees. It's available at Tourism Kangaroo Island in Penneshaw and at the national parks office at 37 Dauncey St. in Kingscote (tel. 08/8553 4444).

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