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Not far from the well-groomed resorts of Poipu is a magical place to leave the crowds—and maybe the last few centuries—behind. To reach the three different beaches of Mahaulepu, framed by lithified sand dunes, former sugarcane fields, and the bold Haupu ridge, you’ll have to drive at least 3 miles on an uneven dirt road through private land (gates close at 6pm) or hike the fascinating Mahaulepu Heritage Trail. The first tawny strand is Mahaulepu Beach, nicknamed Gillin’s Beach after the former Grove Farm manager whose house is the only modern structure you’ll see for miles; the house is available for rent starting at $3,450 a week (www.gillinbeachhouse.com). Windsurfing is popular here, yet the strong currents prevent swimming or snorkeling. Around the point is Kawailoa Bay, also a windsurfing destination, with a rockier shoreline great for beachcombing and fishing. Wedged between dramatically carved ledges, Haula Beach is a picturesque pocket of sand with a rocky cove, best for solitude; access may be restricted. Note: The coastline here can be very windy and subject to high surf in summer.