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Hawaii Regional Cuisine co-founder Roy Yamaguchi surprised many in 2015 when he announced he was closing his upscale Roy’s, a fixture of Poipu Shopping Village for 2 decades, in order to open this more casual concept inspired by the multicultural plantation era (and named for the islands’ first restaurant, founded in Honolulu in 1849). The throngs now ascending the stairs to the second-story, open-walled dining room in the Shops at Kukuiula may only be surprised by the noise—the food is predictably excellent. Executive chef Clinton Nuyda’s culinary finesse and local beef, fish, and produce ensure excellent preparations of “humble” fare such pork and shrimp potstickers ($15), the Hapa burger made of grass-fed Kauai beef and wild boar ($20), and kamameshi (hot-pot rice bowl) with chicken ($18) or butterfish ($42). The bubu arare salmon ($30), coated in rice crackers and served with kabocha (pumpkin) tempura, is a crunchy revelation.