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Like a steer in a rodeo, service here can be poky or lightning fast, but as the only full-service restaurant in town, it’s often worth it even if you have to sit a spell. At lunch, skip the time-warp salad bar in favor of sandwiches or platters with fresh fish, Niihau free-range lamb, or Makaweli (Kauai) grass-fed beef. Tempura shrimp, teriyaki beef, and rice come in the plantation-style lunchbox known as a kau kau tin ($14); dinner is more steak-focused and pricey. The cozy Saddle Room ★★ next door serves similar burgers and fish sandwiches, but with a more ambitious, locally sourced cocktail menu, such as the Kokee Mule with passionfruit vodka ($10) Alas, it’s only open a few nights for dinner and for Sunday brunch.