Active Pursuits in Kelso

The 18-hole Roxburghe Golf Course (tel. 01573/450-331) is the only championship course in the region. Designed by Dave Thomas, one of Britain's leading golf-course architects, it's 7,111 yards. Guests of The Roxburghe Hotel can most easily get tee times, but the course is open to nonmembers as well. Greens fees are £35 to £80 for 18 holes.

Our favorite countryside spot is the nearby village of Kirk Yeetholm, 11km (6 3/4 miles) southeast of Kelso on B6352. This is the northern terminus of the Pennine Way, a 403km (250-mile) hike that begins down in Yorkshire, England. Today Kirk Yeetholm is filled with tired hikers at the end of the trail, but it was once the Gypsy capital of Scotland -- until 1883, a Gypsy queen was crowned here. You can see (at least from the outside) the "Gypsy palace," really a tiny cottage in the center of the village.

Another place for walking and hiking is around Smailholm Tower (tel. 01573/460-365), on a ridge 13km (8 miles) west of Kelso and 3km (1 3/4 miles) south of Mellerstain, signposted off B6404. A so-called peel tower (fortified tower) from the 1500s, it has been restored and rises 18m (59 ft.) above a loch, providing some of the best views of the Borders. Open October Saturday to Wednesday 9:30am to 4:30pm; November to March Saturday and Sunday 9:30am to 4:30pm. April to September, it's open daily 9:30am to 5:30pm. Admission is £4 for adults, £3 for seniors and students, and £2 for children 5 to 15.