Planning a trip to Kenya

Tips for Single Travelers

The main disadvantage to traveling alone while on safari is cost. The per-person rate of a room or tent will invariably work out much more expensive if there's only one occupant. The same principle applies to the cost of charter flights and car hire; if you're looking to spread costs a little, it's a good idea to partner up for your trip. Ranger Safaris (www.rangersafaris.com), the biggest operator in Tanzania, deals with big catalog operators but also offers a large selection of scheduled small-group "seat in vehicle" itineraries, making this a good value option for singles.

Of course, if you're planning a totally budget-oriented adventure where you'll be jumping on buses, making use of relatively inexpensive tour operators, and shacking up in cheap local places, you can have a perfectly good time on your own, with great flexibility to do what you want, when you want. There is some price to pay for such independence, though, such as never having someone to watch your bags at airports and the like, or keep an eye on your drink if you need to visit the washroom. Hopefully, if you're planning to explore on your own, you'll be sufficiently outgoing and gregarious to make friends and acquaintances along the way. The other alternative is to join an overland truck safari, which can be ideal for single travelers. For details of routes through East Africa, visit www.overlandafrica.com.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- Nairobi, 020; Mombasa, 041; South Coast, 040; Malindi, 042; Nakuru, 051; Nanyuki, 062; Naivasha, 050; Kisumu, 057. If you're calling a cellphone number from abroad, you don't need to add the area code before the cellphone code, but you do need to drop the first 0.

Business Hours -- Standard shopping and business hours are Monday to Saturday 8:30am to 5pm, though many shops open Sunday morning, too. Some shops may close on Friday afternoons due to prayers. Bank hours are Monday to Friday 8:30am to 1:30pm and Saturday 8:30 to 11am.

Drinking Laws -- Alcohol is sold in bars, hotels, restaurants, and supermarkets with no restrictions. Away from the large resorts on the coast, small Muslim-owned restaurants may not offer liquor. The Lamu Archipelago is predominantly Islamic and largely nonalcoholic except for a handful of European-run resorts and hotels.

Electricity -- Kenya operates on 220-voltage electricity and takes square three-pin plugs (same as in the U.K.). While some safari properties provide adapters, you're advised to bring your own for charging equipment. If you're bringing electrical equipment from the U.S., you'll also need a convertor. Consult www.walkabouttravelgear.com for information on converters and adapters.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are located in the nation's capital, Nairobi.

United States Embassy: United Nations Avenue, off Limuru Road, Gigiri, Nairobi (tel. 020/363-6000; http//:Nairobi.usembassy.gov).

British High Commission: Upper Hill Road, Nairobi Hill, Nairobi (tel. 020/284-4000; www.ukinkenya.fco.gov.uk).

Canada High Commission: Limuru Road, Gigiri, Nairobi (tel. 020/336-3000; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/kenya). Australia Embassy: ICIPE House, Riverside Drive, Westlands, Nairobi (tel. 020/444-5034; www.kenya.embassy.gov.au).

Emergencies -- For all emergencies (ambulance, fire, and police), dial 999.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Taxes are already included in the price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons.

Holidays -- The Kenyan coast is predominantly Muslim, and many vacations are determined by the Islamic calendar, which shifts from year to year. These include Eid El Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice), Ras El Sana (Islamic New Year), Moulid El Nabi (Prophet's Birthday), and Ramadan (fast during the ninth month of the Islamic calendar), followed by Eid al Fitr (Feast of the Breaking of the Fast after Ramadan). Public holidays are New Year's Day (Jan 1), Good Friday and Easter Monday (sometime in Mar or Apr), Labor Day (May 1), Madaraka Day (June 1), Moi Day (Oct 10), Kenyatta Day (Oct 20), Jamhuri (Independence) Day (Dec 12), Christmas Day (Dec 25), and Boxing Day (Dec 26).

Insurance -- Travel insurance is imperative for Kenya and should include coverage for theft or loss of valuables, full medical coverage in the event of an emergency, and medical repatriation to your home country. For more information on traveler's insurance, trip cancelation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Language -- Swahili (or, more correctly, Kiswahili, meaning "Swahili language") is the official national language and is taught in primary schools. However, English is taught in secondary schools, is widely spoken, and is the language of government, most media, and businesses. Some safari guides and hotel staff on the coast speak other European languages, too. Signs are usually in English. As in any country, it's always appreciated if you learn a few local phrases; most people will recognize Hakuna matata from The Lion King, which means "No problem!" in Kiswahili. For those wanting to go further, the Swahili Dictionary, compiled by D. V. Perrot (Hodder and Stoughton), contains a concise grammar and a guide to pronunciation, as does Teach Yourself Swahili, by Joan Russell (McGraw-Hill). The Swahili Phrasebook, by Martin Benjamin (Lonely Planet), has some useful phrases.

Legal Aid -- If you get into trouble with the law, contact your consulate or embassy, which, if necessary, can refer you to a qualified English-speaking attorney. Also bear in mind that if you are dealing with the police, even if reporting a crime (like a theft) against yourself, it is customary to address the police formerly -- that is, calling a policeman "sir" and policewoman "madam." Ranting and raving that they should do something about a situation will get you absolutely nowhere.

Mail -- The Kenyan postal service is cheap and reasonably efficient. Having said that, never send anything of value though the post; always use a courier service. An airmail letter will take about a week to Europe and about 10 days to North America and Australia. The bulkier your mail, the longer it will take to arrive. A postcard or letter costs around 90¢ to Europe and $1.20 to North America or Australia. International surface parcels cost about $14 per kilogram, and parcels by airmail are about $40 per kilogram. Post offices are open Monday to Friday 8am to 5pm and Saturday 9am to12pm.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Kenya has a number of English-language newspapers, of which the best is Daily Nation (www.nation.co.ke). The East African (www.theeastafrican.co.ke) is a weekly newspaper covering news throughout Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda. Kenyans themselves are avid newspaper readers, so papers can be bought on any street corner or from wandering vendors in the cities and towns. Rather delightfully, you will see groups of men reading the same newspaper and discussing its contents.

Smoking -- Kenya's ban on smoking in public places is harsher than in other countries, as it includes not only smoking in public buildings, but also smoking on the street. Smokers can smoke only in designated places, such as outside areas of some restaurants and bars or on hotel balconies.

Taxes -- Value-added tax (VAT) of 16% is included in all prices of goods and services.

Time -- Kenya is 3 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time.

Tipping -- It is customary to tip guides, drivers, and support staff on your safari. That said, the decision to tip -- and how much to give -- is a personal matter and not an obligation. Most lodges and camps will indicate (usually with an in-room note) an amount that is considered appropriate. Unlike the U.S. and Europe, where gratuities are akin to wages and are almost mandatory in many places, in Kenya tips are gifts, and the people you meet will generally work incredibly hard for them. Typically, you will be asked to give any gratuities to your host (or the lodge manager) upon departure from each safari property, and these monies will then be distributed among all staff members. At some places, guides should be tipped separately, and you're often encouraged to hand over their tip personally. Guides can make or break a trip, so it's a good idea to bring extra money to reward a stellar guiding experience. Allow $10 and $20 per day (for each person in your party) for a guide, plus an additional $5 to $10 per person for drivers and, on budget camping safaris, cooks. In cities and on the coast, 10% of the bill is standard for restaurants, and you can hand over $1 for porters and similar services. Taking pens and sweets to give out freely to children in Kenya is not advised, as this encourages begging. If you want to contribute to any cause in Africa, it's always best to make a donation to a reputable charity. Your tour operator should be able to help you with this.

Toilets -- You'll find few public toilets while on safari -- or anywhere in Kenya, for that matter. Generally speaking, you'll want to avoid any type of public restroom unless it is in a hotel, resort, or safari lodge or camp. Upmarket restaurant facilities in larger towns and cities are generally acceptable, but never assume that you're going to encounter a decently managed toilet.

Visitor Information -- Your first port of call will probably be the Kenya Tourist Board's website (Kenya-Re Towers, Ragati Rd., Nairobi; tel. 020/271-1262; www.magicalkenya.com), although you'll soon discover that many of the tour operators specializing in Africa (or Kenya, specifically) carry similar, or even better, information on their websites. The Kenya Tourist Board will send you some brochures on request, so it's worth contacting them in advance. U.S. and Canada: Kenya Tourist Board, c/o Carlson Destination Marketing Services, P.O. Box 59159, Minneapolis, MN 55459-8257 (tel. 866/445-3692). U.K.: Kenya Tourist Board, c/o Hills Balfour, Notcutt House, 36 Southwark Bridge Rd., London SEI 9EU (tel. 0207/202-6362). If your primary interest is in game-viewing safaris, check out the website of Kenya Wildlife Services (www.kws.org). Other general destination websites with extensive information about Kenya include www.kenyalogy.com and www.kenyatravelideas.com.

Water -- Do not drink any tap water unless you have been given the thumbs-up by your host. There are only a few hotels, resorts, and lodges that treat, filter, or purify their tap water. (Tortilis in Amboseli National Park supplies naturally sourced mineral water direct to their bathrooms.) Nearly every safari property and beach resort will supply rooms with either a jug of filtered water or bottled mineral water. Remember that it is more environmentally friendly to use the filtered water if given a choice; some places make the extra effort to treat and filter their water and then bottle it in glass (remember that all plastic requires an elaborate disposal and recycling process). Always carry sufficient liquid with you when heading out for the day, since you never know how long it will be before you find a supply of drinkable water. Some river, stream, and mountain water may be safe to drink; however, remember that rivers may be used for human ablutions and bathing, and that hippos defecate in water.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Age incurs great respect among Kenyans and Tanzanians -- mzee means "old man" in Kiswahili but is actually an honored title of respect -- so older travelers are generally treated with politeness. However, there are no special discounts or provision for senior travelers. The countries don't have any specific restrictions aside from health risks, which can be avoided with the right preparation.

Getting Around

If you are visiting a number of parks and reserves in Kenya, the option is to either drive or fly between them. Roads in most of the wilderness areas are extremely rough and difficult, and self-drive is, in our opinion, not recommended (unless you have good off-road experience and are a talented and adventurous map reader). Instead, consider joining an organized safari and then decide whether you will fly or be driven between destinations, considering your budget and amount of time you have.

Elsewhere, all the towns in Kenya are linked by a steady stream of buses and matatus (minibuses), and in the cities there is public transport in the way of buses, matatus, taxis, and, in some places, bicycle or tuk-tuk taxis.

By Plane

If you can afford it, getting around Kenya by plane is the quickest and most comfortable option. There are a few domestic airlines to choose from that link the most popular safari destinations and provide services to the coast. Some of the more up-market safari lodges have their own airstrips and use small planes operated by private air charter companies to ferry their guests in from Nairobi or Mombasa. In Nairobi, flights go from Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, and some operators fly from Wilson Airport, 6.4km (4 miles) from the city center off the Langata Road. Kenya Airways (tel. 020/327-4747; www.kenya-airways.com) provides regular services between Nairobi, Mombasa, Malindi, and Lamu on the coast, and Kisumu in Western Kenya. They also operate a useful service between Nairobi and Zanzibar in Tanzania. AirKenya (tel. 020/606-539; www.airkenya.com) flies from Nairobi's Wilson Airport and links the more popular safari destinations. They fly to several airstrips in the Masai Mara, as well as Amboseli and Samburu, and Lewa, Nanyuki, and Meru; the latter three offer access to the game ranches on the Laikipia Plateau. They also fly from Nairobi to Lamu, Malindi, and Mombasa on the coast. Additionally, as they code share with Tanzania's Regional Air, they offer flights from Nairobi to Kilimanjaro, Dar es Salam, and Zanzibar. Mombasa Air Safari (tel. 0734/400400, 0734/500500, 0722/791509, or 0722/202559; www.mombasaairsafari.com), based on the coast, links the coastal resorts and Amboseli and the Masai Mara. Safarilink (tel. 020/600-777; www.safarilink-kenya.com), also based at Wilson Airport, links the parks and, from Nairobi, touches down in the Masai Mara, Amboseli, Tsavo, Lewa Downs (for the Laikipia Plateau), Samburu, and Lamu on the coast. Fly 540 (tel. 020/827-521; www.fly540.com) is Kenya's newest "no frills" airline and flies from Nairobi to Eldoret, Kitale, Kisumu, Lamu, Malindi, Mombasa, and the lodges in the Masai Mara, as well as to Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar in Tanzania and Entebbe in Uganda.

If you're headed for less-visited parks, or simply prefer to set your own schedule, the best charter airline is Boskovic Air Charters (tel. 020/602-026; www.boskovicaircharters.com), although some lodges and safari operators may have their own preferred charter company. It's expensive to charter a plane and probably worthwhile only if you can fill the entire plane with your family or friends.

On some flights using small planes, luggage is restricted to 15kg (33 lbs.) per person, but you can leave excess luggage at hotels in Nairobi for a small fee. Don't schedule any domestic flights too close to your international departure from Kenya, in the event internal flights are delayed or canceled.

By Car

Unless you are familiar with African driving culture and have great road instinct, profound map-reading skills, and an ability to know the way almost intuitively, our advice is that you avoid driving in Kenya. Many of the roads in rural areas and in the parks and reserves are not tarred, so a four-wheel-drive vehicle is essential, particularly in the wet seasons when these roads often become impassable. Besides the bone-rattling that you'll experience as you careen along potholed roads and over dirt tracks in various states of repair, you need to be wary of Kenyan drivers. Road accidents are frequent, and deaths on the roads occur frequently. Overtaking is extremely hazardous and can make being on the roads quite frightening. During traffic jams (which occur frequently, often thanks to accidents), it is a common habit for drivers to cross the median strip and drive unflinchingly toward oncoming traffic. Buses (including long-distance buses) and matatus are frequently involved in (and often the cause of) fatal accidents. Matatus, in particular, are a hazard, thanks to speeding and erratic driving.

Vehicular travel outside major cities at night should be avoided -- roads are poor, as is street lighting, where it exists at all. Also be aware that, in some areas, the roads are the only place where people have adequate room to walk, and domestic and wild animals are also regularly encountered on the roads. Warning: Carjackings are a reality in Kenya, so try not to carry valuables around with you, and make yourself aware of what's happening on the roads around you. Do not leave anything in plain sight when leaving a vehicle unattended, as this might tempt would-be thieves. In certain areas, particularly in Northern Kenya, there is a threat of banditry.

If you think you're tough enough to tackle Kenya's largely appalling roads, you can consider the following 4WD vehicle-hire companies. Rates start at $140 per day:

Roving Rovers (www.rovingrovers.com) has a fleet of well-maintained Land Rover Defenders that can be rented for self-drive expeditions. They cost $165 per day (including tax) with unlimited mileage and come fully equipped with camping equipment. There is also the option to hire a driver/cook/guide.

Avis (www.avis.com) is well stocked with vehicles catering to off-road needs, as is Hertz (www.hertz.com). Central Rent-a-Car (www.carhirekenya.com) is a Nairobi-based firm with a fleet of 4X4s and SUVs.

If you've got the time and the desire to self-drive, we recommend you first spend a few days with one of the instructors at the Glen Edmunds Performance Driving School (www.glenedmunds.com) in Nairobi, which offers training in 4WD-driving, high-performance driving, anti-carjacking, and other useful techniques for surviving Kenya's roads.

To hire a car, you must be over 23, and while you don't necessarily need an international driver's license, your license must be in English. Driving is on the left, though on badly potholed roads it is customary to drive all over the road to avoid them. Parking in the towns usually involves paying a parking attendant on the street a small fee, and they will display a ticket on your windshield. Nairobi also has some multistory car parks.

By Train

For decades, the overnight Nairobi-to-Mombasa railway was one of the world's most famous and pleasant rail journeys. However, in the last few years, and thanks to chronic underinvestment, the railway today is close to financial collapse and suffers from frequent breakdowns and derailments, making it lengthy and unsafe. In addition, much of the rolling stock (some of the carriages are 80 years old) needs to be maintained or replaced. Nevertheless, the service is still running, although the 530km (330 mile) overnight trip, which should take 13 hours, often takes a lot longer, and in the extreme, local people have been known to get off the train and take a bus for the rest of their journey. If you are a tolerant traveler and still want to take the train, first class is recommended, which is in two-bed compartments and includes dinner and breakfast in the restaurant car for around $65 per person. Tickets can be bought from Nairobi's and Mombasa's railway stations or booked through local travel agencies. Railways in the rest of the country are restricted to freight.

By Bus

If you're on a budget, buses are the best and cheapest way to travel. Large buses and matatus crisscross the country and link the major towns. Longer routes link Nairobi and Mombasa with cities in neighboring Uganda and Tanzania. Some of the vehicles are quite old and can be driven rather recklessly, but recent legislation has curbed overcrowding and ensured that each seat has a seatbelt and that the vehicles are speed governed. The buses are reasonably efficient and comfortable, but exercise caution around the bus stations, as petty theft can be a problem. The best bus company to use on long routes is the Tanzanian company Scandinavian Express (www.scandinaviagroup.com).

By Taxi, Tuk-Tuk & Boda-Boda

Regular taxis are found easily on the street and outside hotels. Tuk-tuks are three-wheeled vehicles with a back seat that sits three passengers and can be used over short distances in the beach resorts along the coast. Boda-bodas, meaning "border-border," as they originated in East Africa's border towns to ferry people across no-man's land, are bicycle taxis with one seat over the back wheel. These are cheap and fun over short distances, but you need to hang on tightly. With all these, prices should be negotiated before setting off.

Money

In this guide, we list exact prices in the local currency only where it is actually quoted; the vast majority of safari destinations and upmarket resorts and hotels in Kenya and Tanzania quote their prices in dollars (and, in some instances, euros or sterling). Visitors generally pay a higher rate for accommodations and game park entrance fees than East African residents; in such instances, you can always expect to be charged in one of the three major Western currencies. You will always have the option of paying in local currency, but the exchange rate will work against you. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic or www.xe.com to check up-to-the-minute rates.

The official currency in Kenya is the Kenyan shilling, not to be confused with the Tanzania and Ugandan shillings, which are different currencies. The written abbreviation of the Kenyan shilling is either Ksh or /= (which you will see on handwritten receipts). Notes are 50, 100, 200, 500, and 1,000, whereas coins are 5, 10, and 20. Kenyan shillings can be used to pay for most things, though dollars are accepted by airlines and some large hotels, and can be used to pay national park entry fees.

Generally, you will have paid all lodging and transport costs in advance in order to secure your reservation at safari lodges, camps, and resorts; you'll also usually need to pay for any tours or operator costs in advance. That will take much of the burden off you when it comes to thinking about money. However, you will need to carry some Kenyan and Tanzanian shillings with you for tipping, shopping, restaurant and bar visits, and incidental expenses that might occur.

Plan your safari so you are left with as little local currency as possible before your departure home, since neither country allows you to export currency.

Currency Exchange

Currency and traveler's checks can be exchanged at the major banks, exchange bureaus, and some hotels. Airports in Nairobi, Mombasa, Dar es Salaam, and Zanzibar have 24-hour exchange services. The easiest currencies to exchange are U.S. dollars, British pounds, and euros. Try to carry bills that are relatively new, as banks in Kenya have been known not to accept older U.S. bills. Do not change money on the black market; it is illegal and you risk going to a jail or being swindled. The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). Most banks in Kenya and Tanzania have ATMs, and they are increasingly being installed in petrol stations in Nairobi and Mombasa. They take four-digit PINs. However, remember that in remote regions, they are few and far between. Note: Overseas withdrawals may charge an additional fee by your home bank. Credit cards are a safe alternative to cash and are widely accepted in hotels, upscale souvenir stores, and restaurants, and can be used to pay for safaris. However, some small camps do not have credit card facilities and you will be asked to settle your outstanding account in cash, so it's always wise to make inquires first. If you are carrying plastic, make sure one of your cards is a Visa or MasterCard, as these are most commonly accepted. Diners Club is unheard of, and American Express is accepted at only a few establishments. Upmarket restaurants in Arusha or Moshi have been known to refuse credit card payments under $50 (or even $80). Note that there will also be a 5% to 7.5% surcharge on the bill (and for any other credit card purchases in either Kenya or Tanzania, for that matter).

In Kenya, dollars are largely used in business with airlines and large hotels, while everyone in Tanzania accepts them as payment rather than local currency (parks in both countries will, in fact, only accept U.S. dollars in cash or traveler's checks), so it's worth bringing a certain amount of dollars in cash and/or traveler's checks. Note that if you bring euros or sterling, you will have to convert them to shillings and then to dollars (a big hassle), and most street vendors and even some hotels take a very relaxed attitude to actual conversation rates and will simply knock off three zeros (Tsh 1,000 = $1).

What Things Cost in Kenya & Tanzania

Kenya and Tanzania are relatively affordable, which does not mean to imply that they are cheap. Safaris are big business, and maintaining a business (of any kind) in the wilderness is implicitly costly and those expenses will obviously filter down to you, the paying customer. Additionally, park entry fees add to the cost. Although everyone is going to have a similar game-viewing experience, a safari holiday could set you back anywhere between $150 and $2,000 per person per day, depending on the level of comfort you want. At the top end of the spectrum, you can expect luxury accommodations and service in sublime locations, while at the lower end, you'll be looking at a camping safari in basic camp sites, with a cook to prepare simple meals.

Away from the parks and reserves, upmarket hotels and coastal resorts cost about $250 to $300 per night, although a number of exclusive luxury spots on the coast aimed at honeymooners cost more. Budget travelers utilizing midrange hotels and using public transport can get by on $60 to $100 a day.

The cost of eating varies from a $3 portion of chicken and chips or fries from a local canteen to a $60 meal for two with wine in a good restaurant. Often on safaris and in the coastal resorts, meals are inclusive of the rates. A bottle of beer is about $2. Wine is expensive (as it's imported), but is readily available. Bottles of water and sodas are less than $1.

Allow for additional funds if you think you may want to do extra activities in Kenya -- watersports on the coast or the balloon ride over the Masai Mara, for example.

Regions in Brief

Nairobi, Kenya's capital, has grown from a swampy railway camp in 1899 into the largest city between Johannesburg and Cairo, and is today a thriving city with a clamoring street life. Although not a prime tourist destination, Nairobi does have a number of good attractions, including the Nairobi National Park and other wildlife centers and museums.

The Rift Valley is a vast geological feature created by tectonic forces in Earth's crust, which runs approximately 6,000km (3,720 miles) from Syria, under the Red Sea, through East Africa to Mozambique. In Kenya, the valley is at its deepest just north of Nairobi, and there are viewpoints on the Nairobi-Naivasha road. This region is dotted with lakes such as Elmenteita, Baringo, Bogoria, and Nakuru.

Western Kenya is one of the least visited areas of the country, as there are no big game parks to attract visitors. The hilly, fertile scenery, characterized by strikingly green tea plantations, is pretty and has some impressive geographical features. Mount Elgon is the second-tallest mountain in Kenya, and Lake Victoria is the second-largest freshwater lake in the world. The Kakamega Forest is the last patch of tropical rainforest left in East Africa, while the tiny Saiwa Swamp National Park protects the rare and shy sitatunga antelope.

Roughly covering the region north of Nairobi to Isiolo, the central highlands are dominated by Mount Kenya, which can be climbed on an organized 5-day hike. To the north of the mountain is the Laikipia Plateau, a former region for ranching that has now been restocked with wild animals. To the west of Mount Kenya is the Aberdares National Park, which is not your typical African game park, as the terrain is moorlike, forested, and often shrouded with fog, though it has plentiful wildlife.

Kenya's coast is a playground for mostly European package tourists on sun, sea, and sand holidays, and for good reason. The 480km (298 miles) of Indian Ocean shoreline boasts sublime white-sand beaches, shady palm trees, sunny weather, warm water for swimming, and a colorful chain of offshore fringing coral reefs. Away from the beach, the historical towns remain a testament to the Swahili culture that has been on the coast for thousands of years.

No trip to Kenya is complete without visiting one or more of the major parks and reserves, located along the border with Tanzania in southern Kenya. The Masai Mara Game Reserve is an extension of Tanzania's Serengeti National Park, and this region of well-watered grassland plains stages the spectacular annual wildebeest migration. Kilimanjaro provides a stunning backdrop to Amboseli National Park, while the combined Tsavo East and Tsavo West national parks are the biggest protected wildlife refuge in Kenya and home to large herds of game, especially elephants.

The vast parched and stony deserts of Northern Kenya are remote and isolated, access is difficult, and in recent years the area has suffered from drought and parts have been occupied by refugees from war-torn Somali and Sudan. Much of the area is also troubled by intertribal violence and banditry, and tourists should take local advice before traveling in the region. Samburu National Reserve is the only stop on the traditional tourist circuit in this region, although Lake Turkana and Marsabit national parks are other rarely visited options.

Planning An Excursion

There are a plethora of operators, and it's worth obtaining a quote from a few of them before deciding. Note that almost all operators will usually stick to their preferred lodges and camps, not always to the benefit of the guest. Use the accommodations reviews to help inform your final overnight itinerary, as all operators will book the recommendations you discover in this book if specifically requested, with the exception of those that offer only a full game package (your own driver and vehicle).

Top operators and travel agents for planning your safaris in Kenya include the following:

• Although based in Atlanta, Georgia, Uncharted Outposts (tel. 505/795-7710; www.unchartedoutposts.com) specializes in safaris, and its proprietors have first-hand knowledge of many of the camps and lodges in East Africa. They have handpicked most of the properties in their portfolio and have a close working relationship with people on the ground. If you want assurance of the best in the business, contact Sandy Cunningham, who was not only born in Africa and lived in Kenya for many years (where she worked at one of the country's finest lodges), but is on first-name terms with most of the best hosts and guides at the more exclusive and intimate places to stay.

Top operators and travel agents for planning your safaris in Tanzania include the following:

• Albatros Travel (www.albatros-africa.com) is an internationally respected company that's had an office in Arusha for more than a decade. Their dedicated team, headed by Julian Camm (East Africa Manager for Albatros Travel), knows what quality and service are all about.

Tips on Accommodations

Accommodations in Kenya and Tanzania range from high-end luxury safari lodges or tented camps and beach resorts with a full range of facilities and entertainment to flea-ridden $10-a-night local town hotels with simple beds and a shared bathroom. Camping is also popular in the parks and brings down the price of an organized safari considerably. Kenya and Tanzania do operate a star grading system for accommodations, although it is below par to what you would expect from the U.S. or Europe. Generally, you can assume four- and five-star hotels are of a good standard. There are also a clutch of world-class, luxurious, and intimate settings in the parks or on the coast.

Hotels -- Nairobi has a good selection of international chain hotels and cheaper three- and four-star individual establishments. The coast leans toward places where vacationers rarely venture out of the confines of their resort except to go on a short safari to one of the closer parks, such as Tsavo. There are a few individual hotels that have a lot of either history or character. For example, the Norfolk in Nairobi has been a Kenyan institution since the colonial days. If you stick to three stars or higher, you can expect clean rooms, a private bathroom with a shower, a swimming pool, and one or more decent restaurants. At the lower end of the scale, the towns offer basic lodgings in one- or two-star hotels that are predominantly used by locals. Budget travelers should look at a room to ensure that the sheets are clean and the plumbing works before committing.

Zanzibar has places on the beach where vacationers rarely venture out of the confines of their resort, but also has some wonderful hotels in Stone Town housed in historic Arabian-style buildings that feature unique Zanzibar-style four-poster beds, Persian rugs, and antique furniture, even at the cheaper end of the scale.

Safari Accommodations -- For all budgets, entrance fees to the parks are the same, and you can expect to have the same sort of game-viewing experience. But what you pay for an organized safari depends on the standard of accommodations and whether you choose to get to the parks by road or air. Generally, accommodations in the parks fall into three categories: top-end luxury tented camps, midrange large lodges, and campsites. Intimate tented camps usually comprise a dozen or so spacious tents under a thatched or wooden roof with their own terrace and sometimes extras such as a private plunge pool or outside shower. Cuisine and service are excellent, and game drives and other activities are all-inclusive. The benefit of these is that you are sleeping in the wild with animals close by, and you'll have the personal service of knowledgeable guides. The large safari lodges in the parks also offer good service and are mostly in scenic locations, but with a large number of rooms in either hotel-like blocks or individual chalets, they can feel a little impersonal. Nevertheless, they offer reasonable value and have a full range of facilities such as restaurants, bars, and swimming pools. Camping safaris offer the best value but are the least comfortable, with cold showers, primitive toilets, and hard ground to sleep on. But the advantage is sleeping in unfenced campsites where you may hear the roar of a lion at night. Camping safaris usually have a cook who prepares meals over an open fire.

Generally, you get what you pay for, and if you avoid peak seasons, you'll score fantastic deals. Another source for discounted stays (sometimes in top accommodations) is the online booking service www.kenyalastminute.com. Kenya has several reputable hotel and safari accommodation chains; some of these deal in large, good-value lodging, with a focus on packing in as many guests as possible, whereas the better ventures are boutique companies that are not so much chains as associations of smaller, intimate, and personalized operations that are marketed under a particular banner.

When it comes to safari destinations, we favor Bush and Beyond (www.bush-and-beyond.com and www.bush-homes.co.ke), which has an assortment of excellent lodges and camps on its books (the majority of which are in the game-rich Masai Mara and on private concessions on the Laikipia Plateau), and Cheli & Peacock (www.chelipeacock.com), which also has a substantial portfolio of similarly lovely properties. Both companies will arrange all accommodations, ground and air transport, and pick-ups and transfers, and will tailor your experience according to your preferences. Of the two companies, Bush and Beyond offers greater flexibility and is better equipped to customizing your holiday. They work closely with U.S.-based travel operator Uncharted Outposts (www.unchartedoutposts.com), which specializes in top-drawer accommodations that are intimate, sustainable, often family- or community-owned, and as untouristy as possible. U.K. travel agency Carrier (www.carrier.co.uk) also works with a highly commendable selection of camps and lodges, with an emphasis on exclusivity and hassle-free comfort.

The main "luxury" hotel chain in East Africa is Serena (www.serenahotels.com), which has a mix of upmarket city hotels, fine beach resorts, and safari lodges that range from comfortable-but-unattractive to decent-yet-affordable. The biggest problem with their safari properties, however, is their size. A high number of bedrooms means that they are able to keep rates down, but that also takes away from the level of exclusivity, and you'll see plenty of package groups taking up large tables. Serena's service standards are, however, fairly high, and the accommodation standards are the best in the chain resort category, thereby offering the best value despite the slightly higher price tag (in comparison to, say, Sopa). Serena's main competitor, although often with properties in areas not challenged by Serena, is Sarova (www.sarovahotels.com), although we don't recommend them unless there really is nowhere else to stay. Even less to our taste is Sopa (www.sopalodges.com), a frankly outdated chain that draws chiefly groups arranged by operators attracted to the hefty commissions Sopa offers them. If you're exploring these two options because of a tight budget, try Wildlife Lodges (www.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com), which offers similar or lower rates but often in better locations.

Still owned by the family of one of Kenya's former presidents, Heritage Hotels (www.heritage-eastafrica.com) runs eight Kenyan safari lodges and camps (the smaller ones are good, the large properties much less so) under three marginally distinct brands, namely Explorer, Intrepids, and Voyager -- of the three, the Explorer properties tend to offer greater exclusivity. One advantage of the Heritage properties is that some offer kids clubs both on safari and at the beach, so they appeal to families. Heritage is represented in the U.S. by Sarah Fazendin's The Fazendin Portfolio tel. 303/993-7906; www.FazendinPortfolio.com), worth contacting to find out about any special deals on Heritage packages.

Tented camps, particularly the so-called mobile camps (those that move to two to three locations depending on animals' movement), are ideal for those who want to be in the midst of the Migration or simply want to experience the thrilling experience of sleeping in the wild with animals close by while enjoying luxuries such as quality linen and en suite toilets. For both of these options, you'll have the personal service of knowledgeable guides. Tanzania's Nomad (www.nomad-tanzania.com) is highly recommended in this category.

Kenya also has a growing number of boutique "chains" comprising personally managed smaller properties. Porini (www.porini.com) comprises four different safari camps and focuses on providing eco-friendly lodgings. Offbeat Safaris (www.offbeatsafaris.com) grew out of a slick horseback safari operation and now has four different lodging options in prime game-viewing areas. Governors (www.governorscamp.com) is a family-run operation based in the Masai Mara; they have a growing number of camps, lodges, and resorts, including their new Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge in Rwanda, which is set to become a prime base for gorilla trekking safaris. Governors also has the best hot-air ballooning operation in Kenya and has its own air service. One more operation to consider if you're seeing Southern Kenya and the coast is Southern Cross Safaris (www.southerncrosssafaris.com), which handles bookings for a small number of camps in Tsavo and represents many resorts on the beach.

Major international players that have set their sights on Kenya include Fairmont (www.fairmont.com), which has recently taken over several prestigious hotels and lodges and is steadily transforming them into ultra-luxurious destinations for the well-heeled. Unfortunately, while they generally provide quality accommodations and efficient service, their properties suffer from a lack of local community involvement, and you'll often find that they employ city-based personnel at their safari destinations. Best of the international players for wildlife enthusiasts is South African-based &Beyond (formerly CC Africa; www.andbeyond.com), which has the added advantage of a better spread of properties in East Africa (including one in the Masai Mara and one on Pemba), and their guides are among the very best in the business.

Special-Interest Vacations

Mobile Safaris

Mobile safaris can be like advanced camping expeditions, where you overnight in a different spot each night, either in smart tents (the best companies erect these for you and put on fabulous meals, too) or at a string of lodges or permanent camps. The level of luxury will be reflected in the price, and the type of transport (you can go by 4X4, camel, horse, foot, or even plane) will determine the manner in which you encounter the wilderness, its wildlife, and its people. Two of the top mobile safari operators in Kenya are Robert & William Carr-Hartley Safaris (tel. 254/722-510-673; www.carrhartley.com) and Bill Winter Safaris (tel. 254/20/88-3369, or 832/585-0042 in the U.S.; www.bwsafaris.com), which both offer luxurious standards and years of experience.

In Tanzania, &Beyond, Nomad, Lemala, and Asilia are the best choices (other top-end safari operators are likely to be booking through these four).

Adventure & Wellness Trips

One of the top operators for adventure holidays is the country's lone white-water-rafting company, Savage Wilderness Safaris (www.whitewaterkenya.com). They also put together mountain-climbing, hiking, and caving trips.

Volunteer & Working Trips

Some of the smaller, privately owned lodges and camps will take on volunteers who express a genuine interest in either conservation, community work, or -- in the case of working ranches -- farming. Please don't volunteer yourself if you're not fully committed to putting in substantial efforts, earning your keep (you'll generally receive full board and lodging), and engaging with your hosts, their guests, and their staff fully. The volunteers we've met have been young (often taking time out on a gap year) and exceptionally enthusiastic. You can expect to work hard, get up early each day, experience multiple facets of a new and fascinating way of life, learn Kiswahili (or a local tribal language), and develop a close working relationship with your hosts. You have a better chance of landing such a special opportunity if you have previously been to Africa or have visited the lodge or camp you're interested in. Potential volunteers should have good people skills and should be prepared to interact with paying guests. Start by contacting Richard Bonham of Ol Donyo Wuas (www.oldonyowuas.com), Colin and Rocky Francombe of Ol Malo (www.olmalo.com), or the management at Lewa Wildlife Conservancy (www.lewa.org) to begin your search for a volunteering opportunity.

You can also go the institutional route, starting out by investigating opportunities at the Kenya Voluntary & Community Development Project (www.kvcdp.org), a good grassroots organization that places volunteers in anything from planting trees, building schools, and promoting AIDS awareness to constructing roads, making bricks, and providing reproductive health education. A 2-week work camp costs $350, while a 2-month program will set you back $950, which covers airport transfers, orientation, participation in the program, and transport to the volunteer location. Accommodations and food are provided, but volunteers take turns preparing meals.

Volunteer Kenya (www.volunteerkenya.org) is the international name for ICODEI (Inter-Community Development Involvement), which runs volunteer programs mainly in education, health care, AIDS education, and micro-enterprise development. Their programs are based in Western Kenya, where the organization also began the first public library in the region. Volunteers pay $1,185 per month to participate, and the fee covers airport pick-up, all meals, and accommodations in a four-person hut situated on a former sugar cane farm in rural Kenya.

Eco-Resorts (www.eco-resorts.com) is worth investigating for their tailor-made safaris that combine interactive cultural experiences with opportunities to participate in volunteer activities and programs.

Tanzania Volunteer Experience (www.volunteertanzania.org) places volunteers in day-care centers and orphanages around Arusha as teachers or HIV/AIDS educators. A 2-week work camp costs $495, while a 2-month program will set you back $1,495, which covers airport transfers, orientation, participation in the program, and transport to the volunteer location. Accommodation and food are provided, but volunteers take turns to prepare meals.

Escorted Safaris

You'll get the most out of your safari with an experienced and knowledgeable guide who understands the bush and should be able to discuss the flora and fauna with you in detail. Often your guide will be available to join you for meals (indicate whether you'd like this) and regale you with tales of past adventures. Note that the safari companies recommended above all provide a guide/driver along with their vehicle, but often they are more drivers than guides. Companies that provide guides as well as drivers (&Beyond, for example) usually take the whole safari experience to a new level.

In Kenya, guides employed by legendary high-end safari company Ker & Downey (www.kerdowneysafaris.com) -- don't muddle them with the similarly named tour company that's based in Houston -- are renowned for their professionalism and know-how. Ker & Downey was established in 1946 and is considered the world's oldest safari company, making use of luxury lodges and camps, yet giving clients a real sense of adventure and an excellent insight into the bush. On similar footing is Royal African Safaris (www.royalafricansafaris.com), which organizes highly individualized bespoke tours, matching up clients with their ideal guide.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Homosexuality is illegal in Kenya and Tanzania and carries a hefty jail sentence. Generally, being gay is still largely a taboo subject, lesbianism doubly so, and many locals take the attitude that it's a foreign, un-African practice. Nevertheless, because of this, most locals in the tourism industry do accept that non-African visitors may be gay, so you'll receive no discrimination. However, complete discretion is advised -- even public displays of affection between a heterosexual couple are frowned upon on the Muslim coast and Zanzibar. Although in saying that, platonic affection between African males, such as holding hands or, by Muslims, kissing on the cheek, is common and a sign of friendship and respect. Behind the Mask (www.mask.org.za) is an organization that reports on gay and lesbian issues throughout Africa.

When to Go

Sitting on the equator, Kenya and Tanzania enjoy temperate climates and are pretty much year-round destinations; as you'll notice from the charts below, there is remarkably little fluctuation in monthly temperatures. However, temperatures on the rim of the Tanzania's Ngorongoro Crater drop dramatically at night, particularly June to August, so pack a warm layer or two. Temperatures drop below freezing on Mount Kilimanjaro (and Mount Meru at certain times), where there is permanent snow on the highest peaks. To keep an eye on local weather patterns, visit www.africanweather.net.

Seasonal fluctuations mostly relate to rainfall, which -- in game-viewing regions -- can have a dramatic impact on animal populations and accessibility, and consequently also on accommodations prices. Generally there are two seasons, dry and rainy. The best months for game viewing are generally the dry seasons, which are January to March and June to September. At these times, vegetation is light and there is no surface water created by the rains that disperse the animals, and instead they congregate around the remaining rivers and waterholes. Drier weather also means less hassle by mosquitoes. Many safari lodges and camps will close during the "long rains" in April and May -- considered low season -- and this is when you'll score the best deals on lodging and are least likely to feel besieged by other travelers. However, getting around at this time (as well as in Oct and Nov, during the so-called "short rains") can be difficult, as dirt roads turn to mud, and many become impassable.

Top season to visit Kenya's Masai Mara and Tanzania's Serengeti is during the Migration, which starts as early as July and can continue through November (though Aug-Oct are the most productive months); however, this period is generally marred by popularity, as visitor numbers soar and the best viewing areas are mobbed by homo sapiens. Note also that the Migration continues year-round, with most of the movement happening in Tanzania's Serengeti, so you can plan to incorporate the Migration pretty much any time of the year, as long as you're flexible about where to go. Toward the end of May, when the rains abate, the Migration moves north and/or into the western corridor, and the river crossings usually happen in July. Between August and October, the herds are at the Mara River (in the far northern Serengeti), and over these months they cross backward and forward, in and out of Kenya, drawn by localized rain showers. In November, when the rain clouds usually gather to green the south, they again cross the Mara, passing through the eastern Serengeti to return to the short-grass plains of the southern Serengeti in December.

Bird-watchers will want to visit in the winter months from October to April, when many birds migrate to East Africa from Europe.

Calving season usually occurs January to March in Tanzania's southern plains. This is an incredible time to be in the Serengeti, with thousands of calves being born every day, and -- thanks to the short-grass plains -- the riveting predator action in clear view.

Kenya and Tanzania's coasts and Zanzibar can be visited at any time of year, although again the rainy seasons may hamper beach time. They enjoy a tropical climate with average daytime temperatures of 30°C (86°F) and long hours of sunshine, making them a perfect destination for a beach vacation. During the day the humidity is tamed by sea breezes, but it can feel sultry at night. High season on the Kenyan and Tanzanian coasts is November to February, when it's a popular winter sun destination from the Northern Hemisphere.

Getting There

By Plane

Nairobi's Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (NBO) is the main point of arrival for most visitors; Mombasa's Moi International Airport (MBA), on the coast, also sees some international arrivals, although this is generally restricted to package tour groups on charter flights from Europe aiming for a beach vacation. Both airports have banks with ATMs and exchange facilities, car-hire desks, duty-free shops, and restaurants. For more information about the airports, visit www.kenyaairports.com. Nairobi is East Africa's air travel hub and is served by several international airlines. It's also served by just about all of the African airlines and so is a good destination to move on to other countries in Africa.

By Road

Kenya's busiest border crossing is with Tanzania at Namanga. Arusha is the nearest large town on the Tanzanian side and is the springboard for the Northern Circuit parks. It is 270km (167 miles) south of Nairobi. Moshi is 80km (50 miles) to the east of Arusha and is the base for climbing Mount Kilimanjaro. Regular daily shuttle buses run between Arusha and Moshi and Nairobi, which take 6 or 8 hours via the Namanga border crossing; drivers assist passengers with border formalities. Timetables and prices can be found on the following websites: AA Shuttles (www.aashuttles.com), Impala Shuttles (www.impalashuttle.com), and Riverside Shuttles (www.riverside-shuttle.com).

There are other border crossings with Tanzania at Taveta near Voi, which is served by local buses. Lunga Lunga, south of Mombasa, and Isebania, on the Lake Victoria side of the country, are served by cross-border buses that link Nairobi with cities in Tanzania. The best bus company to use these routes is the Tanzanian company Scandinavian Express (www.scandinaviagroup.com).

Kenya has two border crossings with Uganda at Malaba and Busia, and there are regular cross-border bus services between Kampala and Nairobi. Kenya has one border crossing with Ethiopia at Moyale in the extreme north of the country, but there is no public transport.

If you are crossing any of these borders in your own vehicle, you must have vehicle registration and a Carnet de Passage issued from your own country, and will need to take out third-party insurance at the border.

By Boat

Though cruise ships do dock in Mombasa Harbor, there are no other passenger ferry services to Kenya. Except for short excursions for snorkeling or sightseeing, it is illegal for foreigners to travel by dhow along the East African coast.

Health & Safety

Common Ailments

Tropical Illnesses -- Malaria is responsible for more than one million deaths in Africa each year, so it is imperative to take malaria precautions seriously. The threat of infection -- the result of a bite from a disease-carrying mosquito -- is present throughout the country, though the risk reduces at higher altitudes such as the Kenyan Highlands and Nairobi. Besides using prophylaxis medication, such as Malarone or Larium, arm yourself with strong mosquito repellents that can be safely sprayed or rubbed onto exposed skin, and make use of mosquito nets (these are a standard feature of nearly every property we've reviewed in this book) when you retire at night. Mosquitoes generally appear the moment the sun goes down, and just because you cannot see or hear them does not mean that they aren't buzzing around your ankles -- stay alert and do everything in your power to prevent being bitten (even if you have taken medication). Bear in mind, too, that children are more at risk of contracting the disease. Note that prophylactics have intense side effects on a small percentage of people, including forms of psychosis and depression -- it's worth taking the medication a few days before you leave. If you become ill with either a fever or flulike symptoms while traveling -- or up to 1 year after returning home -- you should seek medical attention at once and let your physician know the details of your travel history, along with details of the prophylactics you've been taking. For additional information on malaria, protection from insect bites, and antimalarial drugs, visit the CDC Travelers' Health website at www.cdc.gov/malaria.

Although mosquito bites are responsible for the greatest number of deaths in Africa, HIV/AIDS is obviously a major health concern in both countries, and you should remain cautious of this fact if you intend to have sexual relations with locals or if you come into contact with human blood.

Less prominent, but occasionally reported, risks in Kenya include tick bite fever, Rift Valley fever, typhus (usually the result of a tick bite), African sleeping sickness, plague, and relapsing fever. None of these pose as great a threat as chloroquine-resistant malaria, but it pays to be vigilant and try to protect yourself against bites.

Cholera has been reported in certain parts of Kenya and Tanzania, but you are unlikely to encounter it on safari. Bilharzia or schistosomiasis (which spends part of its life cycle in snails and the other part in humans) is a concern in and around Lake Victoria, so it's best not to swim there or in any other lakes. Rabies is prevalent in Kenya. Avoid touching any feral animals; if you are bitten by a domestic or wild animal, clean the wound immediately and seek medical treatment. This involves taking a vaccine, and the dose depends on whether you have already been vaccinated against rabies -- not necessary for a one-off visit, but it should be considered for lengthy stays in developing countries.

For general information about outbreaks of infectious diseases abroad, consult the website of the World Health Organization (www.who.int/en), and get more health information for travelers from www.who.int/ith/en.

Dietary Red Flags -- Never drink water from any tap unless you have been assured that it is completely safe to do so (and only if the assurance comes from someone you can trust). On the whole, at every single lodge and camp you'll encounter while on safari, you'll be briefed on the quality of the water and whether it's drinkable. Most places will provide bottled or filtered water in your room or tent; this may be free or chargeable. Most food in Kenya and Tanzania is safe to eat, but be wary of ice in drinks and washed salads and fruits, and always ask where the water has come from. Also avoid reheated food or food that has been sitting around for awhile -- equally relevant to a street stall and a hotel buffet.

Kenyans and Tanzanians are big meat-eaters, but that doesn't mean that vegetarians should go hungry. When making reservations for safari lodges and camps, make your hosts aware of your dietary predilections. You can do this either directly or through your operator or travel agent. Bear in mind that many of these lodges are a great distance away from towns where special foodstuffs can be purchased, so supplies need to be purchased in advance. If there are vegetarian guests, they need to make adjustments to their shopping list ahead of schedule, and you'll enjoy a more exciting culinary experience if you give prior warning.

Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Although unlikely while on safari, there is a chance of encountering snakes, spiders, or scorpions, and on the coast a variety of sea creatures that can sting. Most snakes will clear off before you have a chance to tread on them, and the old tale that snakes are more scared of humans is generally true. The most worrisome snake is the puff adder, considered too lazy to move off when they sense you coming. In the event that you are bitten, stay calm and seek medical assistance immediately. Remember, the majority of snake bites are not poisonous. Spiders and scorpions may be spotted but are unlikely to pose a threat; the general rule is to leave them alone. At the coast, certain tropical sea creatures can inject venom into bathers' feet, which can be very painful. Wear plastic shoes if such creatures are reported in the area.

High-Altitude Hazards -- Altitude sickness can be a risk for anyone heading to altitudes above 3,000m (9,840 ft.) above sea level, so hikers and climbers tackling Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro should take adequate precautions and prepare properly for the ascent. Symptoms include shortness of breath, nausea, vomiting, headaches, and dizziness. Mild altitude sickness requires rest before ascending higher; severe altitude sickness requires medication and a slow descent in stages. It's best not to attempt a climb if you have a bad cold or chest infection, or within 48 hours of going scuba diving. It's also a good idea not to go straight from the coast to Mount Kenya or Kilimanjaro, but to acclimatize at a midway altitude, such as Nairobi or the foothills around Moshi, for a couple of days.

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure -- It can get incredibly hot under the African sun -- particularly in arid and semi-arid areas. Arm yourself with a high-factor sunscreen, a hat that will protect your face, and good sunglasses, and be vigilant to prevent overexposure to the sun. Be especially cautious of children. At the other extreme, many people are surprised by the prevalence of extreme cold in certain parts of the country. Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro may lie on the equator, but temperatures, particularly at higher altitudes, are freezing. If you're going to climb, you'll need special protective clothing. Temperature fluctuations are known to take travelers by surprise; because the countries are on the equator, the sun disappears rather suddenly (at more or less the same time throughout the year), and nightfall can bring quick temperature changes.

Avoiding "Economy Class Syndrome" -- Deep vein thrombosis, or as it's know in the world of flying, "economy-class syndrome," is a blood clot that develops in a deep vein. It's a potentially deadly condition that can be caused by sitting in cramped conditions -- such as an airplane cabin -- for too long. During a flight (especially a long-haul flight), get up, walk around, and stretch your legs every 60 to 90 minutes to keep your blood flowing. Other preventative measures include frequent flexing of the legs while sitting, drinking lots of water, and avoiding alcohol and sleeping pills. If you have a history of deep vein thrombosis, heart disease, or another condition that puts you at high risk, some experts recommend wearing compression stockings or taking anticoagulants when you fly; always ask your physician about the best course for you. Symptoms of deep vein thrombosis include leg pain or swelling, or even shortness of breath.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

While in the tourist areas, you'll have access to good medical facilities, and Nairobi has the best hospitals and private clinics in East Africa. The coast, too, has top-class facilities, which in some cases even offer cosmetic procedures to vacationers. If you are going to more remote regions, be aware that medical facilities (including drugstores) are few and far between. There may be occasional clinics, but these are poorly equipped and may not be able to dispense medicines that you might require. For minor ailments, pharmacists can assist and recommend a doctor, if necessary. Expect to pay for any medical services either upfront or immediately after treatment. If you have international medical insurance, keep the receipts so your company can reimburse you. However, if you become seriously ill and require advanced medical attention or surgery, you should definitely fly home, as local equipment and training standards are still far below those in the West. Your travel insurance should include repatriation to your home country in an emergency. Within Kenya and based at Nairobi's Wilson Airport, the Flying Doctor's Society of Africa (www.amref.org) provides evacuation from remote areas in both Kenya and Tanzania to the nearest hospital. You may want to consider a temporary membership ($50) if you are going off the beaten track, but for the more popular parks and reserves, there are adequate medical provisions in case of an emergency.

Safety

In countries with rampant poverty and police departments that are often seen to be ineffective, crime can be a problem. However, much of the crime around Kenya and Tanzania is not directed at tourists and is in areas most tourists wouldn't visit or are in transit through (the north of Kenya and Nairobi, or Dar es Salaam and Arusha). The biggest threat to visitors is petty theft, particularly in Nairobi, Mombasa, and Kisumu; along the Kenyan coast; and in Tanzania, Dar es Salaam, and Zanzibar. In Nairobi and Dar es Salaam, theft is sometimes accompanied by an armed threat and violence, and carjacking is a particular problem (although, to put this in context, this particular crime is usually targeted at expats with expensive four-wheel-drive vehicles). Nevertheless, if driving, be alert and vigilant at all times. Pickpockets operate in cities and crowded areas, and travelers should be wary of "snatch and run" thieves who routinely snatch jewelry and other objects from people in the street or through open vehicle windows. Vehicle windows should be kept up and doors locked regardless of the time of day or weather. Thieves on matatus, buses, and trains may steal valuables from inattentive passengers. Never leave any luggage unattended. It is safer not to carry valuables -- store them in your hotel room safe -- and try to limit the amount of cash and valuables that you carry with you. Make every effort not to flaunt items such as cameras and mobile phones. Walking alone or at night, especially in downtown areas, in public parks, along footpaths, on beaches, and in poorly lit areas, is dangerous and discouraged.

In the remote and sparsely populated northern parts of Kenya (which include much of the Northeastern Province, the Eastern Province, the northern part of the Coast Province, and the northern part of the Rift Valley Province), there are a number of security issues. Police escorts or convoys are a requirement in certain parts of Northern Kenya; for visitors here, air travel is the recommended means of transportation. Here, highway banditry remains an ongoing problem, and also be aware that localized violence can occur in the form of cattle rustling (a cultural tradition for a number of tribes), which is often reciprocated by counter-raids. Such activity can also precipitate ethnic or tribal conflict and even small-scale warfare. Cross-border violence is also prevalent. A key problem zone is near Kenya's border with Somalia, where criminal acts, including kidnappings, have occurred. Travelers should be aware of the dangers and seek current status updates before heading to Northern Kenya.

Be aware that political demonstrations occur from time to time in East Africa. In late 2007 and early 2008, following the presidential and parliamentary elections held on December 27, Kenya was hit by intense unrest and violence. The violence, which made its way into news headlines around the world and portrayed a situation that many believe was far worse than the reality, followed the announcement by the Electoral Commission that incumbent candidate Mwai Kibaki had retained the presidency. Violence flared up in opposition strongholds and most heavily impacted the Nyanza, Rift Valley, and western provinces, as well as Nairobi and parts of Coast Province; more than 1,000 people were killed in the conflict and 300,000 were displaced. In previous general elections in Tanzania, there were some violent protests on Zanzibar and Pemba between supporters of varying political parties, but elections have passed peacefully in recent years. That said, safari destinations are not affected in any way during political elections, and as long as you avoid lengthy stays in populated areas (and, naturally, public demonstrations, which tend to happen in public parks, near government buildings, and around university campuses), protest activity is unlikely to affect tourist attractions outside Nairobi. For up-to-date information, contact the State Department (tel. 202/501-4444; www.state.gov/travelandbusiness). For more safety tips, download the Department of State's pamphlet "Tips for Travelers Abroad," at http://travel.state.gov.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months from date of entry to Kenya or Tanzania and with sufficient blank pages for any visa stamps. If your passport does not meet the requirements, you must renew your passport or obtain a new one prior to obtaining the visa.

Visas

Most visitors can purchase a visa from the airport or land border immigration desk upon entry. Alternatively, you can get a visa from an embassy or high commission overseas, but it's easier to get one on arrival. Visas are valid for 3 months from the time of entry and cost $50 (U.S. and Irish citizens pay $100). If you are only transiting through Kenya, say, from a safari in Tanzania or Uganda to the airport in Nairobi, a transit visa valid for 7 days is $20. Visas are paid for in cash (in dollars, British pounds, or euros). In theory, there is a similar transit visa available in Tanzania, though this is not always enforced.

Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda have an agreement that you can cross into each and back again without purchasing a new visa, as long as each visa is within its 3-month validity. For example, you can go from Kenya to Uganda, to see the mountain gorillas, and return to Kenya on the visa you acquired on first entry to the country.

Up-to-date requirements can be found at Kenya's Ministry of Home Affairs website (www.homeaffairs.go.ke) and Tanzania's Ministry of Home Affairs website (www.moha.go.tz).

Visas are most easily obtained on arrival in Kenya.

U.S. residents looking for more information on Kenyan visas can go to www.passportsandvisas.com. Alternatively, visit www.kenyaembassy.com, and click on "Consular Info -- Visa Information." You can also contact the Embassy of Kenya, 2249 R St. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/387-6101). You can also contact one of two Consulate General facilities: either in L.A. at Park Mile Plaza, Mezzanine Floor, 4801 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90010 (tel. 323/939-2408; www.kenyaconsulatela.com), or in New York at 866 U.N. Plaza, Ste. 4016, New York, NY 10017 (tel. 212/421-4741).

Australian and New Zealand citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the Kenyan High Commission, Level 3, Manpower Building, 33-35 Ainslie Place, Civic Square, Canberra ACT 2601, Australia (tel. 61/02/6247-4788), or by checking the High Commission's website at www.kenya.asn.au.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the Visa Section of the U.K.'s Kenya High Commission, 45 Portland Place, London W1B 1AS (tel. 020/7636-2371), or by visiting www.kenyahighcommission.net.

Canadian citizens should contact the Kenya High Commission, 415 Laurier Ave. East, Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6R4 (tel. 613/563-1773), or visit www.kenyahighcommission.ca/visas.htm.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the Embassy of Kenya, 11 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (tel. 01/613-6380), or by checking the "Consular Services" section of the website at www.kenyaembassyireland.net.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Kenya -- Every visitor aged 18 and older may bring 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or no more than 250g of tobacco, and 1 liter of liquor (or 2 liters of wine) into Kenya, duty-free. Additionally, everyone entering the country is entitled to bring up to Ksh5,000 worth of gifts and souvenirs and 500 milliliters of perfume. The import of fruit, plants and seeds, and imitation firearms is prohibited. For more information, visit www.revenue.go.ke.

What You Can Bring into Tanzania -- The import and export of firearms, narcotics, and pornography is illegal. The government has the right to charge duties on items brought in intended for resale, but personal items such as jewelry, laptops, and cameras can be brought in duty-free. There are no restrictions on the import or export of foreign currency, but as the Tanzanian shilling (Tsh) is not a hard currency, it cannot be taken in and out of the country. Every visitor aged 18 and older may bring 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or no more than 250g of tobacco, and 1 liter of liquor (or 2L of wine) into Tanzania, duty-free.

What You Can Take Home from Kenya & Tanzania -- The export of gold, diamonds, or game trophies not obtained from the authorized government departments is prohibited. It is illegal to export elephant ivory, wildlife skins, and sea turtle products.

For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 0800/428-786 or 04/473-6099; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Consult your physician ahead of any trip to Africa. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC; www.cdc.gov/travel) has details of required and recommended immunizations for international travelers as compiled by the World Health Organization. The CDC also regularly updates its website with news of outbreaks that affect specific areas and destinations; it's worth checking out their travel advisory and following up by consulting your doctor. You will certainly need to take some prophylaxis against malaria, and there are other immunizations that are highly recommended.

Both Kenya and Tanzania are endemic for contracting yellow fever, so it is essential you have a yellow fever vaccination; you may be denied entry without one. We also highly recommend immunizing yourself against typhoid, hepatitis A and B, meningitis, rabies, and -- if you're going to be in East Africa for an extended period -- cholera. Booster shots, although not mandatory, are suggested for tetanus-diphtheria, measles-mumps-rubella, polio, and varicella.

Certain immunizations must be administered over a period of time, while others cannot be given at the same time. Consult your doctor at least 4 to 6 weeks prior to your trip, especially since some vaccines require time to take effect. Vaccinations should be recorded and stamped in a yellow international immunization card, which you will be given when your first shots are administered; take this with you whenever you go for booster shots or new immunizations.

If you use any prescription drugs (and, for that matter, contact lenses), be sure to take adequate supplies with you. Also take the original prescription along, as brand names of drugs may be different in drugstores. When it comes to medical needs, do not leave anything to chance, and if you have any specific conditions, consult your physician well ahead of your scheduled departure.

Note: Anyone who has recently undergone surgery (up to 18 months prior to traveling in Africa) should consult their doctor or surgeon to discuss the need for antibacterial drugs to stave off any risk of infection.

Staying Connected

Telephones

In the cities there are public coin and card phones on the street. Phone cards can be bought from post offices, street vendors, or small shops. You can make direct international calls from these. Phoning from hotels is expensive, as they add a hefty premium.

To call Kenya or Tanzania from another country: Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia. Dial the country code 254 (Kenya) or 255 (Tanzania) and then the local number minus the first 0.

To make domestic calls within Kenya or Tanzania: For all calls within the countries, drop the country code, but the full area code (including the first 0) must be dialed along with the number. All numbers begin with a three-digit area code.

To make international calls from Kenya or Tanzania: First dial 000 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next dial the area code (drop the first 0 if there is one) and number. For international operator-assisted calls, dial 0196. Note that calls between Kenya and Tanzania and Uganda are charged at long-distance tariffs and not international. To call Kenya from Tanzania and Uganda, dial 005 followed by the area code and number. To call Uganda from Kenya, dial 006 followed by the area code and number, while calls to Tanzania require the prefix 007. Kenya and Tanzania have discontinued their "collect call" facilities. Toll-free numbers in the U.S. cannot be accessed from Kenya or Tanzania. Use of international long-distance calling cards is very limited.

Cellphones

Kenya and Tanzania are awash with mobile phone operators; you'll spot advertisements for Safaricom, Zain, Celtel, and several others in even the most remote corners of the country. Surprisingly, there may be mobile services even in far-flung wilderness areas (where cellular connectivity is the only means of communicating with the outside world), but limited coverage in national parks that are relatively close to major towns or cities. Most of the local operators have partnerships with international service providers -- if you want to investigate these services, it's best to make inquiries through your home operator before departure. Using a mobile phone to call internationally is very expensive, so try to avoid doing so. You'll also pay dearly for international roaming through your service provider back home. The simplest way to have mobile phone access is to purchase a SIM card when you arrive and stock up on prepaid charge cards, which are available everywhere from formal phone shops to street vendors. If you are traveling to other African countries, opt for a Zain SIM card. They operate borderless roaming across 22 African countries, and call costs are local, not international. International calls from a Kenyan or Tanzania SIM card are about 50¢ a minute and local calls cost about 20¢ a minute.

Cellular Abroad (tel. 800/287-5072; www.cellularabroad.com) has a number of services that are handy for travelers to Kenya; these include satellite phone rentals and various conventional cellphone and SIM card rental packages that can be tailored to your specific needs. Although their SIM cards are not as cost-effective as buying one locally, they'll be more useful if you're visiting Kenya as part of a multidestination trip and wish to continue using the same card. They also sell the National Geographic Travel Phone, which enables you to keep the same number no matter where in the world you're visiting and save on international calls; the per-minute rate for a call from Kenya to the U.S., the U.K., or Australia, for example, is $1.55.

Internet & E-Mail

Internet cafes in major tourist spots and in the towns and cities are easy to find. The Kenya Post Office now offers access in almost all of their branches, even in the small towns. Hotels and lodges, too, are increasingly offering Internet access to their guests, though this is usually more expensive than a street-side cafe. Generally, you won't find Internet access in remote safari destinations. Although speed connections from landlines can be slow, satellite connections are continually increasing and the cost is lowering; expect to pay little more than $1 per hour. Wi-Fi is catching on in Kenya and Tanzania (Arusha's International Conference Center), and the airports and some hotels and coffee shops (such as the Java chain) now have Wi-Fi.

Online Traveler's Toolbox

Veteran travelers usually carry some essential items to make their trips easier. Following is a selection of handy online tools to bookmark and use.

• Airplane Food (www.airlinemeals.net)
• Airplane Seating (www.seatguru.com; and www.airlinequality.com)
• Foreign Languages for Travelers (www.travlang.com)
• Maps (www.mapquest.com)
• Time and Date (www.timeanddate.com)
• Travel Warnings (http://travel.state.gov, www.fco.gov.uk/travel, www.voyage.gc.ca, www.smartraveller.gov.au)
• Universal Currency Converter (www.oanda.com)
• Weather (www.intellicast.com; and www.weather.com)

Tips for Families

Generally speaking, game-viewing safaris are not ideal for very young children, and many smaller, more intimate (and, consequently, peaceful) camps and lodges will place a moratorium on kids below a certain age. Certainly, you should think twice before taking children under 12 on game drives with other passengers -- for children under 8, it's an absolute no-no. The problem is that young children get bored (game drives can go on for hours), and boredom leads to listless noisemaking, which annoys other passengers, interferes with the game-viewing experience, and may even frighten the animals away. One option for smaller kids is to organize a game-viewing vehicle for exclusive use for your family, which means you can return to your lodge when you want. Also keep kids occupied with animal and bird checklists, and perhaps give them their own binoculars or cameras.

Conversely, taking teenagers on safari is a perfect introduction to the African bush. They have the patience and enthusiasm to look for animals on a long game drive, and it can't be more exciting for them (and their parents) when they spot their first elephant or lion. Besides considering how the behavior of your children will impact the people, animals, and environment around you, it's vital to think carefully about the natural dangers posed by the wilderness and its inhabitants. While on safari, you are always at some kind of risk of attack by wild animals, and while adults usually understand the importance of following simple safety instructions, children may take a lot of convincing. Many of the safari lodges and camps reviewed and recommended in this book are unfenced, and it's relatively easy to imagine younger children wandering off into the bush. Many families do travel on safari, but unless you want to have sleepless nights, you'll want to ensure that your younger offspring are accommodated in the same room or in a suite with a bedroom adjoining yours.

Heritage Hotels (www.heritage-eastafrica.com) runs their very popular Adventurer's Club for children 4 to 12 and Young Rangers Club for those 12 to 17 at some of their Intrepids and Voyager safari lodges, which keep kids occupied while parents go on game drives. The lodges themselves have family rooms/tents.

The coastal resorts are very child-friendly, and good discounts can be had if you opt for a family or adjoining room. In some cases, children under 6 are free. Other considerations are that children are prone to sunburn or falling ill with minor stomach upsets and must be protected from contracting malaria at all times. Items such as diapers, powdered milk, and pureed food are available only in Kenya and Tanzania's major city supermarkets, and they are expensive. You may want to consider bringing enough for the length of your vacation.

Tips for Women Travelers

Kenya and Tanzania are not problematic countries for women (even those traveling alone) to visit, although the normal precautions should be taken. You shouldn't go anywhere alone at night, and be wary of unsolicited male interest, especially in the coastal resorts, where foreign women looking for sexual adventure have encouraged pestering by local men. This can be dealt with if you are assertive. Women travelers should dress modestly, as both countries have a wide range of cultural differences. The islands and the coast are predominantly Muslim, so a modest dress code will help you blend in. Wear skirts or pants that reach below the knee and tops that cover shoulders and upper arms. Avoid see-through or overly tight clothing. In beach areas, where there are a lot of tourists, it's acceptable to wear beachwear, but going topless is considered taboo. Lamu and Zanzibar are particularly conservative, so it's important to heed this dress advice so as not to insult the local people. Most of the women on these islands and much of the Muslim coast in both Kenya and Tanzania wear bui-buis, head-to-toe black Islamic dress. Also be aware that public displays of affection are severely frowned upon in Zanzibar, and previously visitors have been arrested for kissing in public. Local women themselves are highly respected, especially older women, so a sharp word from them will help diffuse any number of situations. On public transport, try to get a seat next to other local women. You may be rewarded with good conversation, too.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Kenya and Tanzania are not the most friendly travel destinations for those with disabilities. Few places are wheelchair accessible, and sidewalks and roads are in such dilapidated condition that even those without disabilities can find them challenging. Nevertheless, safaris should not pose too much of a problem, given that much of the time is spent in a vehicle, and you can choose one where accommodations are in a tent or a ground-floor room. Level-entry flat-floored showers, ramps, and grab handles do exist, but only in a few safari lodges and resorts; by doing a bit of research, most disabled travelers should be able to find an itinerary that suits their needs. You should also check with each lodge to be sure they have game-viewing vehicles that can accommodate passengers with special needs -- some vehicles may be too cramped or difficult to climb into to make them worth considering. Access-Able Travel Source (www.access-able.com) offers extensive access information and advice for traveling around the world with disabilities. Accessible Journeys (www.disabilitytravel.com) caters specifically to slow walkers and wheelchair travelers and their families and friends, and organizes safaris in Kenya and Tanzania to the more popular parks. In Kenya, Southern Cross Safaris (www.southerncrosssafaris.com) can organize itineraries for wheelchair users.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

Maulidi Festival, third month of the Muslim calendar, Lamu (http://lamuheritage.org/Maulidi.htm). Maulidi, or Milad-un-Nabii, is the Islamic celebration of the birth of Prophet Muhammad. It is celebrated throughout the world, but Lamu's 4-day Maulidi Festival combines traditional prayer with popular entertainment such as swimming; donkey and dhow races; a henna body-painting competition; tug-of war; football matches; a traditional board game, bao, contest; and performances of Swahili music and dance. The event attracts up to 20,000 people, and the narrow alleyways are transformed with twinkling lights and brightly colored banners, while the dhows on the waterfront are decorated with flags.

January to April

Sauti za Busara, February, Stone Town (www.busaramusic.com). Sauti za Busara means "songs of wisdom" in Kiswahili, and this annual festival of Swahili music attracts the best musicians and performers from all over East Africa, as well as visiting groups from West Africa. Most performances and workshops are held in Stone Town's Old Fort and Beit el Ajaib (House of Wonders) over 4 days, and there's a final night's party with DJs on the beach at Kendwa on the north coast. Music is varied, from traditional taarab (which combines African percussion and Arabic rhythms, and uses large numbers of musicians and Arabian instruments) to bongo flava, a local take on hip-hop and R&B.

May & June

Rhino Charge, May or June, Laikipia Plateau (www.rhinoark.org). This is an annual four-wheel off-road endurance car event organized by the charity Rhino Ark Trust, dedicated to protecting Kenya's rhinos. In recent years, they have funded the ongoing project to fence the Aberdares National Park, to protect it from poaching. The course goes cross-country for more than 200km (124 miles), and it's a grueling race through rugged terrain of dense bush, ditches, and boulders. The winner of the event is the team that manages to complete the course with the least distance recorded.

Lewa Marathon, June, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia Plateau (www.lewa.org). The Safaricom Marathon and Half-Marathon was established in 1999 by Tusk Trust, a London-based charity dedicated to preserving wildlife in its natural habitat, and runners are asked to pledge a donation to take part. It's run on dirt roads within the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy and is the only marathon in the world to go through a game park. Lewa is home to black and white rhinos, elephants, a variety of plains animals, and big cats. The runners are escorted by helicopters and armed rangers, to avoid any confrontations with the four-legged residents -- it's a very exciting race. It's hugely popular with Kenyans, who are known as world-class runners, and recently it's attracted more international participants.

Zanzibar International Film Festival of the Dhow Countries, June, Stone Town (www.ziff.or.tz). This festival celebrates and promotes the unique culture that grew as a result of the ancient trade route around the Indian Ocean and the dhow, which for centuries crossed Africa, Arabia, and Asia on the monsoon winds. All nations around the Indian Ocean participate in the festival, and films are judged, critiqued, and shown in venues along Stone Town's waterfront. Additionally, there are contemporary artists, musicians, cultural troupes, and photo exhibitions, and an arts-related program to creatively empower women and children.

August to October

International Camel Derby, August or September, Maralal (www.yaresafaris.co.ke). This annual camel-racing event is held over a weekend around the small town of Maralal in Northern Kenya. There's a short amateur race, when camels and riders are assisted by a handler who runs alongside. Anyone can compete in this, camels are available for hire, and for complete amateurs, it's very amusing as they try to persuade their reluctant charges to even move forward, never mind cross the finish line. Then there's the more serious 42km (26-mile) professional race that circles the town, when local riders don colorful traditional dress.

Africa Concours D'Elegance, September, Nairobi Racecourse (www.concourskenya.com). This is the equivalent of a beauty contest in the classic car world and a competition for quality for restored cars and motorbikes. There's plenty of other entertainment, too, and the day ends with a drive-by of the vehicles.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

You can help reduce your personal impact and lower your carbon footprint by choosing accommodations that make at least some attempt to be eco-friendly. The large concrete game lodges and beach resorts were built many decades ago without much thought about their impact to the environment. But these days, new camps are being built in a way that they can be completely removed and won't leave a lasting trace on the land. A number of camps have attained some eco-rating, and there is a big trend (particularly by the smaller places) to implement environmentally sensitive measures. Seek out places that have aimed to avoid the use of felled timber -- many responsible designers use only wood from trees that have been knocked over by elephants, for example, and the keenest architects are careful to use local materials as much as possible and create accommodations that blend organically with the landscape in which they're located.

Many camps make use of solar power (for electricity and hot water), and some restrict their use of generators, helping reduce their use of fuel. Game-drive vehicles are a necessary evil in the wilderness, but you can at least try to encourage your guides and drivers to be responsible and considerate toward the environment; discourage off-road driving wherever possible.

Choose lodges and camps that employ local people (not just in menial positions, but in posts that matter, such as guiding and management), and look for evidence of involvement in community projects (you'll usually get a sense of how involved a property is from its website). Often there's evidence of sustainable, responsible tourism practices in small details, such as how a curio shop is stocked. Is it filled with mass-produced goods with widely distributed brands? Or can your host show you the workshop where local communities are actively employed in the craft trade?

You can also make a difference in small ways. Where your room or tent has a bathtub, first find out about the availability of water before going ahead and thoughtlessly squandering a scarce resource. If your lodge or camp still provides drinking water in plastic bottles, make strong suggestions that they change over to using reusable glass bottles or -- better still -- provide filtered water in glass jugs in your room.

Another issue to consider is that many locals are involved in the tourism industry, and some, like the Maasai and Samburu, do so while maintaining their traditional lifestyles, customs, and dress. When encountering these people, do not stop and stare, but interact and share. And it is the local people who act as guides that can best show you their country. On another note, never take a photograph of a person without first asking permission.

For further guidance on operators that practice sustainable safari tourism, contact the Ecotourism Society of Kenya (www.ecotourismkenya.org).

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

• In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.