Khajuraho can be a nightmare. In contrast with the tranquil village atmosphere, hawkers and touts ooze from every corner and have record-setting persistence. You'll no doubt develop a gut-wrenching dislike for the overstretched shopping areas in and around the main square, where everyone seems to demand that you step into yet another handicrafts shop to "just look, no buy." Do not enter any shop in Khajuraho with anyone other than fellow travelers. If you make a purchase on your own, you'll save yourself around 20%, which is the standard commission, borne by you, demanded by "agents" (taxi drivers, guides, or someone who has "befriended" you) for their "service" of bringing foreign business to local stores.

If you're looking to buy miniature artworks -- perhaps an erotic interpretation inspired by the temple carvings -- consider stopping in at Artist (Surya Hotel Complex, Jain Temple Rd.; tel. 07686/27-4145), an appropriately named outlet for Pichhwai and Mughal paintings rendered by Dilip Singh and his two brothers, whose late father was a recipient of a National Award for Art many years back. Their paintings vary in subject, size, and quality, but the selection includes something to suit everyone's pocket. Miniatures on silk, fabric, or paper start at a mere Rs 10, and go up to Rs 13,000; you can also commission a work if there's something in particular that you want to take home with you.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.