Built during the exile of Nestorius to the oasis, Bagawat is today one of the best-preserved Christian cemeteries from its era in the world. There are more than 260 domed mausoleums still standing, and several still have intact wall paintings. Two of the tombs stand out and shouldn't be missed. The first, the Chapel of the Exodus, gets its name from the scenes of Moses and his followers on their journey out of Egypt. Other scenes include Noah's Ark, Daniel in the lion's den, the suffering of Job, and Jonah and the whale. The other must-see is the Chapel of Peace, where vines, peacocks, and biblical figures in their allegorical settings adorn the walls.

A bit like the old city of Qasr in Dakhla, Bagawat is one of those sites where it's probably worth accepting the attentions of one of the "guides" who'll approach you there. For a tip of about LE5 (90¢/45p), they will ensure that you get to see the nooks and the crannies of this large site that you would otherwise miss.