Sunday Market, Xingqitian Dashichang -- This is everything the Kashgar Market once was. You'll need an early start and an empty memory card to make the most of Khotan's lively bazaar, set in the heart of the Uighur part of town. The intersection between Gujiang Bei Lu and Jiamai Lu marks the center of the action, and you're unlikely to see a Han face as the streets fill with livestock and people throughout the day. Jewelers pore over gemstones, blacksmiths busy themselves shoeing horses and repairing farm tools, blanket makers beat cotton balls, rat-poison sellers proudly demonstrate the efficacy of their products -- the sights and smells are overwhelming. Don't miss the horse riding enclosure toward the north side of the melee, where buyers test the roadworthiness of both beast and attached cart, with frequent spectacular tumbles. Head southeast from the bus station or simply follow the crowds.

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