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Take a stroll after dark through the salt air and fog of this seafaring city, admiring the Hanseatic architecture and the ever-present sense of gloomy nostalgia. Along the way, you can stop at any of the small bars of the Altstadt. One of the most visible old-fashioned nightlife options in Kiel is Kieler Bräuerei, Alter Markt 9 (tel. 0431/906290; www.kieler-brauerei.de), which brews and serves, on-site, a medium-dark beer that locals compare to the better-known Düsseldorfer. Most clients come just for the beer, which starts at about 4€ for approximately a pint, but if you're hungry, head for the self-service cafeteria, also on-site, for heaping platters of Sauerkraut, sausage, salads, and prepared meats (try the pig on a spit, rotating behind glass for your viewing pleasure), sold by the kilo. Expect to pay around 5€ to 15€ for a platter.

Hemingway, Alter Markt 19 (tel. 0431/96812), named in honor of Papa, is the hippest bar in town, drawing a chic young crowd nightly.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.