The portrait on the sign of this atmospheric old inn shows Don Juan de Aguila, the Spanish commander who led a force of 4,000 men, assisted by local Irish revolutionaries, against the English at the Battle of Kinsale in 1601. The English won, but Don Juan became a hero in local folklore. The present inn dates from around 50 years after the battle—so some of its first patrons were probably veterans—and it's still a satisfying place with an old-world look. The restaurant serves excellent, homey pub food; the menu in the bar is just as good, and cheaper too. Try the house special chowder, followed by a plate of fresh brill with leek and fennel, or a hearty beef rib in red wine gravy. An eclectic program of live music features everything from straight-up Irish folk to Russian Gypsy bands.
- Frommer's Staff