In the span of a few years, as the Foreside neighborhood has come into its own, Kittery has evolved from a bastion of traditional lobster pounds and fried seafood joints into one of New England’s most diverse and happening food towns. There’s terrific Indian food at Tulsi (20 Walker St., tel. 207/451-9511) and outstanding sandwiches, breads, and pastries at the Beach Pea Baking Co. (53 State Rd., tel. 207/439-3555)—eat at one of the tables outside or on the front porch, if you can find an open one. If you want to go the traditional Down Easter route, Chauncey Creek Lobster Pier (16 Chauncey Creek Rd., tel. 207/439-1030] is the real deal, with lobsters fresh off the boat, brightly painted picnic tables, and a raw bar for clams and oysters. BYOB.THE YORKS
York Village harbors Rick’s All Seasons Restaurant, 240 York St.; tel].207/363-7019), an approachable breakfast and lunch joint with slight Southwestern flair. Directly on Long Sands in York Beach, Sun & Surf (tel. 207/363-2961) has a takeout window proffering fried seafood and ice cream—but also a dining room with standout ocean views and an increasingly sophisticated menu that now incorporates steaks, salads, pastas, tuna, and lamb. For a quick bite, I like the Long Sands General Store (tel. 206/363-5383), near the northern end of Long Sands beach, with pizzas, sandwiches, and other essential picnicking supplies.
An appreciation for the diners of coastal Maine: One thing you’ll notice as you traverse the Maine coast is a preponderance of diners.
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