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The only restaurants along the Kjölur Route are at Ásgarður (in Kerlingarfjöll) and Hveravellir, which also has a small market. Don't expect fine dining.

For mountain huts in Hvítárnes and along the Kjölurvegur Route (except for Hveravellir), sleeping-bag space must be reserved online through Ferðafélag Íslands (tel. 568-2533; www.fi.is; 3,000kr/$48/£24 per person per night). All huts have kitchens but no utensils. None have showers, and only Hvítárnes has a warden. All food must be brought in, and all garbage must be packed out.

At Kerlingarfjöll, from mid-June through September, Ásgarður (tel. 894-2132 or 852-5132; www.kerlingarfjoll.is) offers a wide range of lodgings, from sleeping-bag accommodation in a bunk room for 28 people (2,800kr/$45/£22) to made-up beds in private cottages (5,000kr-13,000kr/$80-$208/£40-£104 per person). Facilities include guest kitchens, a restaurant, and a bath house with showers and three hot tubs. All cottages have heat and electricity, and the website outlines each rooming option, with photos.

The mountain huts at Hveravellir are run by Hveravallafélag (tel. 452-4200 or 894-1293; www.hveravellir.is; 2,000kr ($32/£16) sleeping-bag accommodation) and remain open year-round. One hut has three bedrooms and sleeps 35, while the other has one bedroom and sleeps 20. Both have fully-equipped kitchens and hot water.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.