A "bone-chilling" spectacle awaits at a small church and cemetery just north of the spa town of Kudowa-Zdrój (35km/22 miles west of Klodzko) in the village of Czermna. If you've already been to the Czech Republic, chances are you've seen the well-known ossuary (bone church) in Kutná Hora. If not, you have a real treat here: an entire chapel decorated with the skeletal remains of some 3,000 victims of the Thirty Years' War, and other conflicts and epidemics to have hit this area over the centuries. Ghoulish and fascinating in equal measure, it may not be suitable for children. To find the chapel, head to Kudowa-Zdrój and follow the signs to "Kaplica Czaszek" about 2km (1 1/4 miles) out of the spa center.