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Cheap eats of every type abound in busy Had Rin and, increasingly, even in the smaller villages here. Note that most restaurants here use mobile numbers, not landlines.

For a homey meal, check out L'Embuscade (tel. 087061-0116), a French restaurant on the market road, which has a small terrace and chunky wood chairs. The French owners produce great croissants and fresh bread, and they dish up French favorites including the classic duck breast, magret de canard. Near the pier, Om Ganesh (tel. 07737-5123) serves up authentic curries and all-you-can-eat Indian thali meals, but it's very popular -- book ahead. The Italian restaurant Kimera (no phone), on the beach road, serves delicious pizzas. Also on the beach road in Had Rin, don't miss Emotion of Sushi Bamboozle, for Mexican delights; or Nira's Bakery, for breakfast.

For a special occasion, try Me'n'u, over near Ao Hin Kong, on the coastal road north of Thong Sala (tel. 089289-7133, mobile; www.menu-phangan.com). It's open for dinner only and closed on Mondays. In Had Yao, check out the Hideaway Bakery (no phone) for fresh breads and cakes. At night, the two-story Eagle Pub (no phone), built into the rocks at the southern end of the beach, is a cool nightspot, with a steakhouse and DJs playing tunes to suit every mood.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.