Of the cluster of venues touching terraces in this quiet little courtyard corner of the Old Town, Dym is barfly central. They gather along the narrow bar counter or at a table in the equally modest front room, filling the air with chatter until midnight. After that everyone, including the bar staff, staggers off to Piękny Pies. Don't be misled by the name: although dym means "smoke" in English, thanks to the smoking ban, no-one lights up here anymore.