Planning a trip to Krakow

When to Go

Weather

Krakow’s summer temperatures (June-Aug) hover at around 20°C-25°C (68°F-77°F), although rainfall is at its heaviest then, too. Winter months (Nov-Feb) are dry, with temperatures below freezing and frequent snowy spells, which can last until March. Late spring (April-May) is pleasantly warm, as is September. Note that Krakow’s continental climate sometimes sees summer heat waves soar above 30°C (86°F), while harsh winter temperatures can plummet below -20°C (-4°F).

Krakow Calendar

Celebrate midsummer in June by releasing flower wreaths down the Vistula during Wianki (tel. 12/424 9650; www.wianki.krakow.pl). Klezmer melodies rise up over Kazimierz district during July’s Jewish Cultural Festival (tel. 12/431 1517; www.jewishfestival.pl), while the All Souls Jazz Festival (www.krakowskiezaduszkijazzowe.xt.pl) fills music venues in October and November. December’s highlight is the Szopki Competition (tel. 12/429 3791), when Krakovians gather in the Old Town’s Market Square to show off their lavishly decorated homemade nativity scenes.

Fast Facts

Time Zone -- Krakow follows Central European Time, which is one hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. Between March and October, the clocks are set forward by an hour, making the time GMT+2. So, most of the year, when it’s noon in New York and 5pm in London, it’s 6pm in Krakow.

Money -- Poland's decimal monetary system is based on the Zloty, abbreviated PLN, which is made up of 100 Groszy. There are 1, 2 and 5 Zloty coins, as well as 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Groszy coins. Banknotes are issued for 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 Zlotys.

Telephone -- The country code for Poland is 48, and the local code for Krakow is 12. To make international calls from Krakow, dial 00 and then the country code, local code, and telephone number. For example, if you want to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial tel. 001 202/588-7800.

Tourist Information -- Find general tourist information on Poland, go online to www.poland.travel. For specific information on Krakow visit www.krakow.pl, or call Tel. 48-12/61618-68. The tourist office is located in the Kraków Pawilon Wyspia?skiego, at 2 Wszystkich ?wi?tych.

Getting There

By Plane

John Paul II International Airport (tel. 12/295-58-00; www.krakowairport.pl) is located in the suburb of Balice, about 16km (10 miles) west of the city center. The airport has two terminals, a larger international terminal and a smaller domestic terminal at the back to handle flights within Poland. Most of the services, including rental-car outlets, ATMs, restaurants, and a branch of the city's tourist information office, are located at the international terminal. The best way to get into town from the airport is to take Polish Railways' "Balice Express," regular train service to and from Kraków's main train station with regular departures on the half-hour. (The "express" part of the name must be some sort of inside joke at Polish Rail, since the train seems to chug along at about 32kmph/20 mph; still, it manages to make the journey in about 20 minutes.) The price is 8 z each way (7 z if purchased at a ticket machine). To reach the small station from where the express train departs, you need to take a blue shuttle bus that leaves from outside both terminals. Kraków Shuttle (tel. 12/633-01-25; www.krakowshuttle.com) offers reasonably priced door-to-door shuttle service from both Kraków and Katowice airports. The price from Kraków to in-town destinations is 70 z total for up to four passengers. You can also take a taxi into town, but be sure to use only clearly marked cabs and refuse any offers of a ride you might get from individuals inside the terminal or just outside the door: These are likely to be scams. Expect to pay about 70 z to 80 z to destinations in the center.

By Train

Kraków's main train station, the Dworzec Gówny (pl. Kolejowy 1; tel. 12/393-15-80; http://rozklad-pkp.pl) is a pleasant 15-minute walk from the center of the city. Kraków is well served by rail, and departures for Warsaw and other major cities are frequent. The rail distance from Warsaw is about 3 hours. Note that travel to popular international destinations like Prague sometimes requires a change of trains in Katowice.

By Bus

Kraków's Central Bus Station (Bosacka 18; tel. 12/393-52-55; www.rda.krakow.pl) is located just behind the main train station and is an easy walk or relatively cheap taxi ride to the center of town. Nearly all buses -- international and domestic -- use this station. This is also where buses to Zakopane and Oswiecim (Auschwitz) depart. The station has two levels, so make sure you know which level your bus is using. There's a bank of ticket windows, but often times, you'll simply buy your ticket from the bus driver.

By Car

Kraków lies on the main east-west highway, the A4, running through southern Poland. It's nearly a straight 3- to 4-hour shot on mostly four-lane highway from the German border, through the cities of Wrocaw and Katowice. You'll have to pay a toll (8 z) covering the distance to and from Katowice, but for the speed and convenience (compared to other roads in Poland), it's a bargain. From other directions, including coming in from Warsaw to the north, you'll have to contend with much smaller roads and longer drive times. Once in Kraków, find a place to park the car (there's metered street parking) and leave it. The city's busy, tram-clogged streets are no fun to drive on.

Getting Around

On Foot -- Much of Kraków's Old Town is off-limits to private cars, so walking is often the only option. Distances are manageable.

By Tram -- Kraków is well served by a comprehensive tram network, and this is a quick and easy way to reach more far-flung destinations (such as Nowa Huta). Try to avoid tram travel at rush hour unless you enjoy getting pressed up against the doors like you're in the Tokyo subway. A standard ticket costs 2.50 z (not valid for transfers) and can be bought at newspaper kiosks and ticketing machines located near tram stops. If you have to change trams or go from tram to bus, buy a 1-hour ticket for 3.10 z. Validate your ticket on entering the tram and hold on to it until the end of the ride.

By Bus -- Like trams, buses ply Kraków's streets from early morning until after 11pm or so, and are a vital part of the city's transit network. You probably won't need to use the buses unless your hotel is well outside the city center. A standard ticket (not valid for transfers) costs 2.50 z and can be bought at newspaper kiosks around town. Validate your ticket on entering the bus and hold on to it until the end of the ride.

By Taxi -- Taxis are a relatively cheap and dependable way of getting around. You can hail taxis directly on the street or at taxi stands around town. Dishonest drivers are rare but do crop up from time to time; to guarantee an honest driver, order a cab by telephone. Reliable firms include Radio Taxi (tel. 12/191-91) and Euro Taxi (tel. 12/196-64). The fare for a typical hop, such as from the Old Town to Kazimierz, will average about 15 z. Fares rise by 50% at night.

By Bike -- Biking is popular, and there are now bike lanes scattered around town, including a nice run along the Vistula river to the village of Tyniec (14km/8 3/4 miles) and through the park, the Planty, that rings the main square. That said, unless you're an experienced cyclist, biking is a better bet for an hour or two of sightseeing, rather than as a practical means for getting around (cycling along the busy, tram-clogged roads is simply too dangerous). Cruising Kraków (Basztowa 17; tel. 12/398-70-57 or 514/556-017; www.cruisingkrakow.com) offers fun and instructional 2-hour bike tours in season (May through September) in the afternoon and evening. They also rent bikes (starting at 30 z a day) and conduct longer trips in summer.

By Golf Cart -- Seeing the city via guided golf cart has become incredibly popular in recent years, and on some summer days, it seems there's an endless stream of carts parading around town. Golf-cart rides are undeniably cheesy but can be a lifesaver on hot days or if time is an issue. You'll find cart stands at popular tourist spots around town, including the main square, below Wawel Castle on Kanonicza, and on Szeroka in Kazimierz. Prices start around 80 z per person for relatively short circuits around either the Old Town or Kazimierz. Longer tours, combining both areas, are more expensive. Audio headphones provide guided commentary in several languages.

By Horse-Drawn Carriage -- Far more romantic than the tram and classier than a golf cart are the beautiful carriages that line up along the main square in Kraków's Old Town. Negotiate prices and routes individually with the driver, but expect to pay around 100 z for 30 minutes (not including tip). Most drivers can manage some English.