Laid out in the 1630s by Hosokawa Tadatoshi as a retreat for the tea ceremony and as the grounds of a nearby temple, Suizenji Garden took about 80 years to complete. The garden wraps itself around a cold spring-fed lake (considered particularly good for making tea). But what makes the place especially interesting is that its design incorporates famous scenes in miniature from the 53 stages of the ancient Tokaido Highway, which connected Kyoto and Tokyo. (The 53 stages were also immortalized in Hiroshige's famous woodblock prints.) Most recognizable are cone-shaped Mount Fuji and Lake Biwa; near the garden's entrance is Nihon Bashi (Bridge of Japan), Edo's starting point on the Tokaido Road. The park is small -- almost disappointingly so -- and for the life of me, I can't figure out more than a handful of the 53 stages. Maybe you'll have better luck. Pastoral views are also marred by -- my pet peeve -- surrounding buildings. Take solace by sipping tea in a traditional thatched-roof teahouse with views of the pond (under renovation until autumn of 2010). Also on garden grounds is Izumi Shrine, built in 1878 and dedicated to the Hosokawa lords, as well as a noh theater, where noh is performed in spring and fall ceremonies. A stroll of the garden takes about 30 minutes.