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A cluster of lodges and camping facilities along the lakeshore make up the tiny community of Kampi ya Samaki, built on the back of a fish factory established in the 1950s by the pioneering Roberts family, David and Betty. Offering the most variety in terms of accommodation is Roberts' Camp (reviewed below), where you can stay in an atmospheric lakeshore house, bunk down in a simple two-bed banda, or set up camp under the trees and listen through the canvas as hippos munch their way across the lawn each night. Besides the two options reviewed below, one other option worth investigating is Lake Baringo Island Camp (P.O. Box 1141, Nakuru; tel. 051/85-0858; www.eihr.com/baringo), which has long occupied a prime position on Ol Kokwe, Baringo's largest island. Although its tents are now a bit long in the tooth, new management stepped in recently, and there's been some overhaul of facilities -- the complete renovation has been put on hold due to the prevailing economic situation, however. In the past, guests have slept in large green canvas tents with attached bathrooms; they're comfy, but nowhere near as romantic as the solid, open-fronted cottages you stay in at Samatian (the other island resort, reviewed below). New owner Perrie Hennessy intends to replace the tents with large, breezy thatch-roofed cottages with whitewashed walls and simple wooden furniture. Twin tents go for $400 (including meals, afternoon tea, and boat transfers to and from the mainland), but if you're looking for a touch of romance, with a hint more luxury, upgrade to the new superior cottage (at press time, just one was complete), which currently costs $440 double per night -- an absolute bargain. In the future, all the tents will be replaced by just 10 of these swanky cottages, each of which will have a private plunge pool on the veranda. Rates will increase considerably, though, when Island Camp becomes an all-inclusive operation. It will also start to take environmental concerns more seriously by stepping up its reliance on solar power.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.