Directly on the water, amid the colorful medieval buildings of Varenna, the Du Lac is a romantic 19th-century villa with modern updates. Rooms are classic and unfussy, with warm fabrics and dark woods, but some of the smaller units can feel a bit monastic, with barely-there décor and little natural light. Still, they all have a nice range of comforts and amenities, including free Wi-Fi, and about half of the rooms have lake views. While those lake-facing rooms cost more than the standard doubles, they also have balconies—the standards don't—which helps justify the premium. The property has a timeworn elegance and offers many charming details of a small Italian hotel—a cozy lounge with a fireplace, a flower-filled terrace with lake views, and a surprisingly good on-site restaurant (also with lake views, and open for lunch only). Except for the crowd down at Bar Il Molo, Varenna is a quiet place where you can count on a good night's sleep—especially thanks to the white noise machine that is the sloshing of the lake against the foundations of the Hotel Du Lac.